ROD
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« Reply #15 on: April 30, 2009, 07:04:29 PM » |
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ROD
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« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2009, 05:45:29 PM » |
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Well,Ive now got the axle stripped of all its bracketry ,and done a basic clean to make it cleaner to work with. Bought my Nova discs as per the part no's given in the other thread,offered them up to get an idea of how much metal to remove from the hub to allow them to seat.Found out that the golf calipers are exchange re-con @about £47 each ! ouch! plus Ive gotta get some crappy ones to trade in ! Degreased the engine ,swapped the clutch arm over to the left,and broke one of the roll pins in the hole putting it back in ,will have to weld that side just for peace of mind /strength.Still on the prowl for a set of 15" wheels for the rearend.Ordered engine /gbox mounts. Thats all for now folks!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2009, 06:15:02 PM » |
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Sounds like you've been busy Rod! Can't you tap the roll pin back out? They only cost pennies at any decent tool shop. We bought a pair of Golf calipers for Taz's trike project from Ebay for 20 quid the pair I think. As has been said here before, VW Passat ones of the same age should be the same & may be less sought after by other Ebayers than Golf parts.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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ROD
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« Reply #18 on: May 09, 2009, 04:03:22 AM » |
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Metallurgy warning !..........Finally got the correct bearings for my headset ,after a 2 week wait.Got hold of some (hard to find round here)65mm diam bar to machine the ends from ,and cranked up the lathe at work . Now Id noticed on the surface of the bar there was slight rusting -no probs- but there were a couple of sort of 'potholes' in the surface ,about 8 mm diam and 2mm deep that went thro' the rust in to the metal .Almost making the rusty surface look as if it was thick peeling scale.No burn marks. Very strange ! As I looked at the scars when I got the (free) metal,the guy said that the pieces had been used a few times for jigs. When I started to machine the metal it seemed to be very hard ,and the swarf was burning and very jagged! Even stranger!I was worrying that if the metal was some kind of unusual high grade stuff ,then maybe it was sorta too brittle for its intended purpose ,and may split round the bearings under load ,with them forks at a headset stressing angle! A mate who knows a lot more than me about turning arrived ,and thought it was the tool not aligned to the work .Checked it ..all ok. Under the surface about 1mm in ,around the potholes ,about 20mm diam was a hard patch ,that I just couldnt cut through! All I can assume is that the patches were blow holes from welds ,and the unmachinable patches were the result of welds as the piece was tacked on to jigs using very high amps,the hardness of the steel was work hardening over the years.S-o-o-o the moral of the story? Its not necessarily ,cheap, in the long run ,to use junkyard metal (altho' I admit to having "rubbish constipation" )(cant pass a skip). Ive wasted about 3 hours (but gained lots of experience),got nowhere,and Ive still gotta go back to work to clean the lathe down!AND I think I'll go get a quote to get them machined up professionally ,let them worry about sourcing the steel as well!Sorry to ramble!! Really annoyed!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #19 on: May 09, 2009, 06:21:00 AM » |
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Hmm, as you say Rod, all useful experience for future reference though.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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brock
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« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2009, 12:20:55 PM » |
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Hey Rod, yep, that sounds like welds, maybe a heavy tack weld with the second piece later broken off and taking the surface of the base metal with it leaving the "pit" with a hardened spot under it, that will happen with high carbon steels. There used to be an engineering place in the new forrest that sold it's offcuts and bar ends through EBay, might be worth a look for thick wall tube, maybe 2 1/4" dia with 1/2" wall ? PS, recieved your package yesterday, spot on, many thanks
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ROD
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« Reply #21 on: May 09, 2009, 02:47:41 PM » |
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Yesterday?? Blimey I sent that ages ago!!! I found a local engineering place this morning who is going to machine up the pieces for me. He seemed to really understand what I wanted ,so for £60 I dont think I did too bad! Apparently I need lead free steel ,cos it welds better.
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ROD
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« Reply #22 on: May 12, 2009, 04:24:50 PM » |
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Well today after work I descended on the craft dept workshops ,and after a fair bit of cajoling (from the guys there and 2 large hammers !!),I heated up the hubs, and with the help of a puller off they came. Completely mullered the bearings with the heat ,but theyre being renewed anyway.So next came a jig to hold the hub ,with the disc clamped down on top. Pics soon ,honest! Im worried the drill stand speed wont go down low enuf to drill the holes with accuracy,but we'll see soon.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #23 on: May 12, 2009, 04:53:24 PM » |
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Good luck!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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ROD
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« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2009, 05:32:31 PM » |
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This is the aftermath of the hub removal ,you can see @bottom right the puller I used! The jig to hold the hub/disc while using the disc stud holes to centre up the holes in the hub .You canjust see on the shaved corners of the hub ,a blob of weld. This was because the inside of the disc has a step in it ,but I couldnt get the vernier to reach in that far tomeasure it,so I guessed the o/a diam I would have to take the hub to ,but shaved off a little too much,so added some weld and re machined it.Im using the corners of the hub to centre the disc on ,as the large hole in the disc has a chamfer on it ,and wont centre quite right on the reduced shoulder in the centre of the hub This is bolted down to a drill stand ,but the drill motor wouldnt run slow enuf,so I bolted the jig to the table of the milling machine. The chuck revs are much better @100rpm!I then exchanged the cutters for a drill bit ,suitably sharpened. .....BUT ...due to the extensive safety guarding round the table ,I couldnt line up the drill bit to centre it in the hole of the disc . The disc holes are 14mm ,and I wanted ,as it turned out, a 31/64ths hole .SO......I machined a piece of bar that fitted into the disc stud hole (14mm),but the largest hole I could drill with any accuracy down the middle of the bar to form a tube ,on the lathe,without breaking out ,was 31/64ths . Ithen cut a slice of the machined tube ,which acted as a guide to centre the drill in the disc hole.All a bit long winded ,but allayed my fears on cocking up! The finished article...Im still not convinced theres enuf meat on the outer edge of the holes! Heres the finished headstock . Collected it today! Wish the machines I use could work to those tolerances!
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« Last Edit: May 14, 2009, 05:45:55 PM by ROD »
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tbone
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« Reply #25 on: May 14, 2009, 06:23:49 PM » |
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I wish i had access to the machines that you use! Nice jobs done well, both of them. Keep them pics coming
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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ROD
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« Reply #26 on: May 14, 2009, 07:18:07 PM » |
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Believe me ,they are basic machines that've been mullered by the kids during lessons! Everytime I use one ,I have to re set the tooling etc! I only know how to use them cos I was keen at metalwork at school ,all those years ago! My main prob is Im too impatient and tend to rush things . Ive only a limited time in the w/shops in the eves ,or @lunchtimes.
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XJ750(UK)
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Posts: 132
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« Reply #28 on: May 23, 2009, 04:03:50 PM » |
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where do you buy the garage s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g machines? I think they'd be a good seller.
seriously though, looking good. whats the front end off?
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ROD
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« Reply #29 on: May 23, 2009, 06:23:41 PM » |
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Had an up and over door on the garage ,but converted it to top hinged years ago,so that on a rainy day I could prop the door open horizontally to work under.Ive temporarily lifted up the door and boxed in the sides and end to give me extra space. Cant remember what bike the front end is from now ,name escapes me! Ive nicknamed it "the xk140 front end " cos I can only remember car stuff Its summat like 'sjx 'or similar ,oh, I dunno bike stuff! Rod
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