Manky Monkey Motors

Nothing to show at the moment,but have now sorted the final design with the chassis man.(he laughed when I suggested it was billed as a "pro build "! saying "its just me in a proper workshop instead of a garage").....Mini Rad,auto box and chassis tube all coming next week. Gotta machine up a headstock also by next week,and build a jig tomorrow. Workshop booked for the following week. Guaranteed a basic rolling chassis by the end of that week . Will try to take pics as we build the chassis...theres gonna be some late nights!....Wahooooo!

This is the Escort motored trike?
Can't wait to follow the build! Lots & lots of piccies please Rod.  ;)

Yes Escort motor.

Just got back from collecting a Reliant Rialto,taxed and mot'd! This will be the base for my moshine!Have aborted the Escort idea due to various probs as detailed in other threads.Hoping to have all the parts stripped out by the w/end.WOOHOO!

I love pulling donor vehicles apart -feels like you've actually achieved something when you're surrounded by a heap of bits! Enjoy! Oh, & don't forget a camera. Document the build from the start so we can all watch over your shoulder please.  ;)

So here we go.......
 Hard to believe this was a living thing that we drove last night!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/drag/IMG_0583[1].jpg)
 And a little worse.......BTW thats me in the photo ,look quite dashing eh?  ;D
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/drag/IMG_0586[1].jpg)
 Extraction complete after 8 hours ,working with my son.......
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/drag/IMG_0590[1].jpg)
 We bagged up all the trim spares we could salvage to sell off to try to recoup some of the money.

Rod, whatever you do, don't cut it up!
 :o

-only joking!  ;D
And so the madness begins once again. Welcome to our World. You are among like minded souls.  :P

Tried to figure out how to pull the engine the 'normal' way !No joy ,so we put the car on its side ,released all the bolts we could see,then back down to do all the bolts reachable from the top. Cut away the scuttle,off came the roof ,back on its side,cut away the x member by the g/box (big tube) ,and pulled it out! We are knackered !Got a large skip at my disposal ,so its off with the body at the w/end,then scrap the chassis!

Great! Can we put all our rubbish in your skip too?  :)
You can guarantee you'll scrap the very part you'll need in 6 months time.  :)

Ah ya wimp. Manky and I have done it in less than 8 hours.  ;D

Have fun  ;D

Yeah ,but A) Im working woth my son who "carnt be bovered " 90% of the time.
              B) we totally gutted the car of every sellable useable item.
              C) IM 56 AND FEELING EVERY BIT OF MY AGE AFTER THIS EXTRAVAGANZA!(oops caps)
                  :-* ;D

OK you win  ;D  ;D

 I sweated just looking at the pictures  ......   ;D

  ..  Hagar  ..   ;D

I reckon you did pretty well Rod.  ;)

Is the beer keg for the petrol tank? and where does the wheel barrow  wheel fit?  ;D

 ;D ;D

Well,Ive now got the axle stripped of all its bracketry ,and done a basic clean to make it cleaner to work with. Bought my Nova discs as per the part no's given in the other thread,offered them up to get an idea of how much metal to remove from the hub to allow them to seat.Found out that the golf calipers are exchange re-con @about £47 each ! ouch! plus Ive gotta get some crappy ones to trade in ! Degreased the engine ,swapped the clutch arm over to the left,and broke one of the roll pins in the hole putting it back in ,will have to weld that side just for peace of mind /strength.Still on the prowl for a set of 15" wheels for the rearend.Ordered engine /gbox mounts.
 Thats all for now folks!

Sounds like you've been busy Rod!
Can't you tap the roll pin back out? They only cost pennies at any decent tool shop. We bought a pair of Golf calipers for Taz's trike project from Ebay for 20 quid the pair I think. As has been said here before, VW Passat ones of the same age should be the same & may be less sought after by other Ebayers than Golf parts.

Metallurgy warning !..........Finally got the correct bearings for my headset ,after a 2 week wait.Got hold of some (hard to find round here)65mm diam bar to machine the ends from ,and cranked up the lathe at work . Now Id noticed on the surface of the bar there was slight rusting -no probs- but there were a couple of sort of 'potholes' in the surface ,about 8 mm diam and 2mm deep that went thro' the rust in to the metal .Almost making the rusty surface look as if it was thick peeling scale.No burn marks. Very strange ! As I looked at the scars when I got the (free) metal,the guy said that the pieces had been used a few times for jigs.
       When I started to machine the metal it seemed to be very hard ,and the swarf was burning and very jagged! Even stranger!I was worrying that if the metal was some kind of unusual high grade stuff ,then maybe it was sorta too brittle for its intended purpose ,and may split round the bearings under load ,with them forks at a headset stressing angle! A mate who knows a lot more than me about turning arrived ,and thought it was the tool not aligned to the work .Checked it ..all ok. Under the surface about 1mm in ,around the potholes ,about 20mm diam was a hard patch ,that I just couldnt cut through! All I can assume is that the patches were blow holes from welds ,and the unmachinable patches were the result of welds as the piece was tacked on to jigs using very high amps,the hardness of the steel was work hardening over the years.S-o-o-o the moral of the story? Its not necessarily ,cheap, in the long run ,to use junkyard metal (altho' I admit to  having "rubbish constipation" )(cant pass a skip). Ive wasted about 3 hours (but gained lots of experience),got nowhere,and Ive still gotta go back to work to clean the lathe down!AND I think I'll go get a quote to get them machined up professionally ,let them worry about sourcing the steel as well!Sorry to ramble!! Really annoyed!

Hmm, as you say Rod, all useful experience for future reference though.

   Hey Rod, yep, that sounds like welds, maybe a heavy tack weld with the second piece later broken off and taking the surface of the base metal with it leaving the "pit" with a hardened spot under it, that will happen with high carbon steels. There used to be an engineering place in the new forrest that sold it's offcuts and bar ends through EBay, might be worth a look for thick wall tube, maybe 2 1/4" dia with 1/2" wall ?
   PS, recieved your package yesterday, spot on, many thanks 

Yesterday?? Blimey I sent that ages ago!!!
 I found a local engineering place this morning who is going to machine up the pieces for me. He seemed to really understand what I wanted ,so for £60 I dont think I did too bad! Apparently I need lead free steel ,cos it welds better.

Well today after work I descended on the craft dept workshops ,and after a fair bit of cajoling (from the guys there and 2 large hammers !!),I heated up the hubs, and with the help of a puller off they came. Completely mullered the bearings with the heat ,but theyre being renewed anyway.So next came a jig to hold the hub ,with the disc clamped down on top. Pics soon ,honest! Im worried the drill stand speed wont go down low enuf to drill the holes with accuracy,but we'll see soon.

Good luck!  :)

This is the aftermath of the hub removal ,you can see @bottom right the puller I used!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0606[1].jpg)
 The jig to hold the hub/disc while using the disc stud holes to centre up the holes in the hub .You canjust see on the shaved corners of the hub ,a blob of weld. This was because the inside of the disc has a step in it ,but I couldnt get the vernier to reach in that far tomeasure it,so I guessed the o/a diam I would have to take the hub to ,but shaved off a little too much,so added some weld and re machined it.Im using the corners of the hub to centre the disc on ,as the large hole in the disc has a chamfer on it ,and wont centre quite right on the reduced shoulder in the centre of the hub
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0607[1].jpg)
 This is bolted down to a drill stand ,but the drill motor wouldnt run slow enuf,so I bolted the jig to the table of the milling machine. The chuck revs are much better @100rpm!I then exchanged the cutters for a drill bit ,suitably sharpened. .....BUT ...due to the extensive safety guarding round the table ,I couldnt line up the drill bit to centre it in the hole of the disc . The disc holes are 14mm ,and I wanted ,as it turned out, a 31/64ths hole .SO......I machined a piece of bar that fitted into the disc stud hole (14mm),but the largest hole I could drill with any accuracy down the middle of the bar to form a tube ,on the lathe,without breaking out ,was 31/64ths . Ithen cut a slice of the machined tube ,which acted as a guide to centre the drill in the disc hole.All a bit long winded ,but allayed my fears on cocking up!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0611[1].jpg)
 The finished article...Im still not convinced theres enuf meat on the outer edge of the holes!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0613[1].jpg)
 Heres the finished headstock . Collected it today! Wish the machines I use could work to those tolerances!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0614[1].jpg)
 

I wish i had access to the machines that you use! Nice jobs done well, both of them. Keep them pics coming  ;)

Believe me ,they are basic machines that've been mullered by the kids during lessons! Everytime I use one ,I have to re set the tooling etc! I only know how to use them cos I was keen at metalwork at school ,all those years ago! My main prob is Im too impatient and tend to rush things . Ive only a limited time in the w/shops in the eves ,or @lunchtimes.

Been making brackets and fittings for the build .After a fair wait it now looks like this build is gonna be in my garage ,and not the workshop I envisaged,so have only just got the jig in place ,after temporarily s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g my garage about 6ft!. Heres a start........
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0617[1].jpg)
 Then I got all the bits in rough places......
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0684[1].jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0687[1].jpg)

where do you buy the garage s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g machines? I think they'd be a good seller.

seriously though, looking good. whats the front end off?

 ;D Had an up and over door on the garage ,but converted it to top hinged years ago,so that on a rainy day I could prop the door open horizontally to work under.Ive temporarily lifted up the door and boxed in the sides and end to give me extra space.
        Cant remember what bike the front end is from now ,name escapes me! Ive nicknamed it "the xk140 front end " cos I can only remember car stuff  ;D Its summat like 'sjx 'or similar ,oh, I dunno bike stuff!
       Rod

GSX? XJS? Nice Merc.
Yup, lookin' good Rod. What's with the square patch in the top of the tank?

The tank was like that when I got it : large hole in top ,drain tap cut out ,and inside has a lot of resin due to a leak it had previously! Idea was to use the tank ,with alterations,to house the electrics etc.would then have a seperate tank at the rear for the fuel . Converted gas cyl maybe.
   Now Ive got a general overall shape for the mosheen ,I dont like the idea of a tank at the rear. I looked at having custom- made aly tanks fitted in to confined areas at the rear ,but think they will be way too expensive! so I'm looking for a bike tank.No auto jumbles etc round here at the mo' though!
   Ive got another plan hatching for the tank,gotta look in to it tho'!
         Rod

Doc, Twisted Patience, has 3 or 4 standard XS750 Yamaha tanks hung on his shed wall if they're any use. We bought a standard Harley Sportster tank from Ebay for Taz's trike, then changed our minds & went for a King Sportster, (wider), bought from Dracken's shop, (he gives a discount to forum members. Click JW Motorcycles on the Links page of the main site).
Of course, we've also got a brand new QuickBob tank, same as Flap's orange trike, here that we bought for Taz but didn't use. Several people expressed an interest in it but no-one's come up with the cash. 100 quid if you fancy it.

Ive noted that Andy ,will have a think...........
 Meanwhile ,today Ive really got stuck into the frame.Pics to follow,as I cant download from camera on this comp. Downtubes in and notched to head stock,g/box x-member mocked up etc. Used the mitre prog for the g/box member(Thanx TB! ) But had to free hand the headstock ones ,what a palaver they were!
 

Aye, fun ain't they!

More Pics........
 Using tube notcher programme........
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0689.jpg)
 Did these by eye........
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0691.jpg)
 Cut up some old box......
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0695.jpg)
  Welded up the g/box mounts.........
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0696.jpg)
  More or less finished.......
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0711.jpg)
  Axle plates.............
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0715.jpg)
 Thats all for now!

My, you have been busy! Lookin' good.  ;D

Another good day on it today!Pics later......
 As can be seen ,due to the deal I had with the guy to build the basic chassis falling thro' at the very last moment ,Ive decided to build it myself. I decided to go with the MMM design,cos Ive never built a trike chassis  before ,and I needed a proven design/shape. It was originally going to be quite a bit different ,but hey ho! Im enjoying it so far ,and it is becoming adictive! I vowed never to build another vehicle ,but famous last words etc........ ;D and strangely enuf,SWMBO has'nt given me grief over that statement! She's been there ,heard that! :)
      Have come to the point where I must weld some chassis tubes together.Ive built the g/box mount and eng mounts using a stick welder ,but now need to get someone in to mig the main bits.Im not confident enuf with mig,or I'd go out and buy a new one.,and do it myself. so Im now on the look out for someone .There are some mobile welder guys around ,but need to find someone closer to home. All good fun!
            Regards,,,,,,,,,,

Looks like Ive solved the welding prob!

Great!
I bought my first MIG years ago & taught myself, but was never 100 percent confident I was doing it right. Then when Flap & I started on his orange trike, we both enrolled on a local tech college evening class course on MIG welding. I had been getting it right, but it was worth it for the confidence it gave me. About 60 quid for a 10 or 12 week course.

Just got a price from Brooklands college for their 12 week course, £250  :o. I think i'll just do their basic one evening intro course for £39. :-[

If you are just a raw beginner at welding ,I reckon thats the best way to go. But if you are more advanced,there are one day intensive courses for learning a particular type eg mig welding. They are run by private companies.

Tack welded main frame today.......
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0726.jpg)
 Now its a roller!!woohoo!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0727.jpg)
 Gotta decide if I want to use this king and queen seat.........Comments?
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0732.jpg)
 The bottom line of the rear part of seat is about the height of the top of the tyre.

Purely personal & highly biased opinion- I much prefer something that follows the line of the top hardtail tubes, ie, running down to the axle. I think dual seats have to sit level & as such, ruin the classic lines of a hardtail. Also means you'd be sat up high on the frame, above the tank. I personally think chops & chop styled trikes should have that sportier, more aggressive stance, with the rider sat down into the machine, rather than perched on top of it.
Solo pad or arrowhead shaped dual seat, following the lines of the frame for me.

Dont follow you Andy!?.....The front (driver) seat is lower and you do sit into it.Theres only just enuf room for the cut down gearlever under there. Only the passenger is higher.

If i had to use it,i would drop it down,and back,but i agree with MM on the other style.IMO it just does'nt fit.

Hmmm just been out to have another look........The passenger rear part does look high ,but I think the front part(driver)is ok, it follows the sweep of the tubes from main rail toward axle,and then flicks up into a sort of backrest.Maybe I'll sorta chop off the rear part and leave the front with its upswept backrest , using the covering of the chopped off bit to re-upholster the back face of the backrest. Been offered it at a fair price so maybe worth doing.

Sounds O.K, give it a go. What have you got to lose.  :)

After looking at this in the cold light of day ,over my first cup of tea this morning,in the garage!I realise I was wrong to get carried away with the Harley seat. It does really need a single lower seat ,with a seperate rear one!

Go for it ! you could make the pillion bit QD.

QD as in Quickly Detachable. Muffin made up a pillion seat for his black Reliant trike, which clips to the luggage rack bit of the frame with 4 R clips.
I wouldn't want to dictate what anybody builds -I love the variety here & the way different people see completely different answers to problems, but I've made the mistake myself several times of being determined to incorporate a feature into a build & finding almost everything else around it would need to be altered to accomodate it. Lots & lots of alternatives you can use, but maybe some things just "work" & others don't?

Nearly stripped ready for final weld of frame.......
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0822[1].jpg)
 (the strap across the down tubes is temporary,just to hold them together while a cross tube is added.)

Let me be the first to tell you that......................................................................it's upside down  ;D

Good luck chap, hope all goes to plan.

Keep us posted.

My, you've been a busy Bunny! Looks great Rod.  ;)

Just had a quick look at the frame Rod, looking good!
let me know when you're going down again and i'll try and get down there on my trike.

whats an R clip

One of these Tone.

its the thing that hold the swivel pin of a sky hook

fanks andy

cant use that one any more

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://ngothelinh3.tripod.com/t_SkyHook2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://ngothelinh.tripod.com/missions.html&usg=__vKc7setXfHNnJk6PY8f0nByk5Yo=&h=289&w=350&sz=12&hl=en&start=2&um=1&tbnid=IE6ne3YpH1nvRM:&tbnh=99&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsky%2Bhook%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1T4GZAZ_en-GBGB307GB308%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1

Got the frame back today from the welder guy! WooHoo 8)

Let's have a look then!

(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0824[1].jpg)
 A basic MMM frame with a bit of alteration to the rear...
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0831[1].jpg)

 i like this slightly different frame ,very nice work,my frame also went to a coded welder last night to be done propper like,what are the two bits of pipe at the back being used for ,shabba.

 ;D I didnt have time to cut them to length before it went to the welder,so he welded them as is ,and Ive got to trim them down to about 4" They will eventually be the tubes for a slide in /slide out cissy bar for the passenger. My daughters request!
  Notice no footpegs as yet......... I fitted eng/box /axle back in to allow me to get the peg positions right once Ive finished the seating position. I feel that this is a critical area (for me anyways) so I needed time to juggle everything around a bit!
   

No need to rush things Rod -better to take your time & get them right first time.
Mind you, my build's taken 4 years, on & off, so far -& I'm still making mistakes!  :P
Nice tidy frame that. 

I want to get it driving ,but at the same time I've gotta juggle money and time availability .Then theres always the prospect of the HUGE vacuum after its finished and on the road! I like the building more than the final use ! Think I'll get the seat and pegs done then carry on the build in my shed,rather than my garage its in at the moment.Ive not seen it assembled out in the daylight yet!

As others here have shown recently, you'll be suprised how different it looks when you can stand back & take a good look at it. Anyone who's ever customised anything knows a project's never finished -there'll always be tinkering & fettling to do. They have a habit of evolving beyond your original plans!  :D

Been doing it to cars for 30 odd years!

It's not a hobby, it's an affliction!

Got the gear linkage working today(a la TT) ,well its the first version ,and a bit rough looking ,just gotta strip it down and shape it up a bit but it appears to work fine . I may leave it like it is for now until the beast is driveable ,then refine it on my private test track. Also made a card mockup of the fuel tank .

Can we have a look?

patience glasshopper ,patience! ::)    ;D
 
 
 
 oops ,didnt do him any good ,did it? He hung mimself  in a cupboard by his nuts! ;D

(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0839[1].jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0840[1].jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0841[1].jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_0842[1].jpg)

You will have to be carefull welding up that battery box! cardboard and duct tape....mmm,difficult!!

Ya know ,I had a feeling you would make a comment like that! ;D
 BTW its not a battery box!! :-*

I've bought bikes constructed from less.
So does the lever linkage work? Does it reduce the amount of sloppiness in the gear change?

 ;D
 Yes ,I was surprised how it worked considering part of it was made from odds and ends I had lying around. I think if each joint (centre boss to cut off g/lever/yoke to square on new lever etc) is made with tight tolerances it should eliminate the slop.Obviously Ive only changed the gears in a stationary situation ,but it does feel positive and controlled.
  couple of tips if anyones interested........The orig g/lever has a bend in it at its base (well mine did!)to kick it over toward the driver.I couldnt straighten it true enuf to allow the centre boss with yoke to pivot on it (it has to pivot as the lever goes thro its motion)so I sleeved the lever with a piece of tube (rod I machined into a tube)brazed it to the orig lever . this gave me a parrallel area to mount the boss which has a bush in it.I used a rod end from a go kart steering (cheap at kart shops)The piece that fits on the new lever that passes thro' and pivots on the yoke I made as deep as I could so that theres a large area that pushes against the yoke side as the gears are selected.The pivot for the rod end bolted to the g.box is only an old bit of tube ,but I am going to use a slightly larger diam tube to allow bushes to be used in the ends. Saying that ,cos the tube is binding on the rod it is pivoted on it also serves to take out a bit of the general slopiness the g/lever has ,which is there even in the orig set up.Hope the above helps somebody decide to have a try . I remember MM saying he hadnt a lot of space to do this on his,but mine is seriously tight in there (oo,er !) ;D One last thing.. dueto having to lift the lever to select reverse ,I am going to drill and tap the centre of the existing stubby lever,and put a plate across the inside of the yoke with a loose fitting bolt tho' the plate holding it down to allow the yoke to pivot ,but also to stay on the pivot ,when it is lifted.
                     Just my ideas,hope it helps, Rod

Oh, well thats ok then, as if it had been a fuel tank it would probably have leaked!!! ;D

Been busy with a few bits and pieces on the trike ,but SWMBO's Birthday today so been out and very attentive (crawl ,crawl ;D) to hertoday!
   Seat,h/bar risers,rear light mounts etc ,but none of the little projects actually finished yet. Will post pics Tamara.

Well,so busy at work,no time to post pics that Ive taken!
   Forging ahead with the pedal arrangements for clutch and brake.
  Got the clutch in an advanced state of prototype,just building a mount for the brake m/cyl. Cos I dont trust my welding,Im having to work out clamp arrangements to hold the parts on to the frame. Will then strip the trike to basic frame and take for final welding of the bits.Have now solved the probs with the footpegs...I'm gonna turn up some aly ones that I will knurl and incorporate them into the front of a footplate arrangement,which im building in stainless.
 Main concern at the mo' is the correct 'throw' of the brake pedal. Just guessing,as per Andy,that the actuating rod will move no more than an inch to fully apply the brakes.
   Got 2 weeks leave coming up soon ,and I estimate that it will take me at least one of those weeks to perfect the pedals.
  An auto jumble locally coming up soon ,so am going hunting for a h/lamp.Still confused on lighting issues ,as per my H/lamp thread!
                  Rod

can u post pics off gear change linkage as im getting seriously stressed trying to sort mine any help would be much appreciated 

Do you mind if I borrowed your gear lever idea. Looks like just the thing for mine.

Not my idea mate! Just "borrowed "it from someone else on here(terrortubby),then 'tuned' it a bit to my set-up.Hope you sort it! All I had was a pic to go on.Was surprised how easy it made the gearshifting.

No pics(computers down at work) to back up my claims of continued hard work! But finally got the clutch and brake pedals working nice and smooth.Just gotta turn up some footpeg coves in aly tomorrow. Will leave the pedals roughed out of 6mm plate ,until Ive ridden it ,then trim the excess off,and grind all the edges to shape once I know the 'throws' are OK.
    Have abandoned my fuel tank fitted into frame idea,and have gone for a cylindrical one across the back,this is being made from 2 cut down calor gas cylinders (about 8" diam)and a piece of 2mm steel which I'm having rolled by a local firm into a cylinder ,then welded to the 'domed' ends of the gas bottles. Have started on the footplates,but now need to build a template from ply to get them symetrical.Handlebars are bent,risers need a dose of the miter templating to get them to fit the bars.Headlamp brackets roughed out but I reckon theres a days work to get them looking nice ,and fully welded .Pics when the computers are back up!

Looking forward to them. Sounds like you've been a busy bunny.  :)

Anuver day has wizzed by!Built the jig for my footboards,built the tank mount plates(frame tubing supports for it tomorrow). .
  Oh yes and today I bent some tube up and mocked up the pillion seat and backrest.Got my daughter to sit on the seat and tried out with me on the front seat.Then it was the turn of SWMBO to change places with daughter! Laugh ! I nearly wet myself!! Shes only 5 ft 4" and seeing her trying to lift her leg to get on the pillion seat was hilarious. In the end my daughter had to help her by lifting her leg up over the frame,she lifted it too high ,and SWBO nearly went base over apex! I tried to explain that I wouldnt be doing that out on the road,so she better get exercising! I didnt let on that when the footboards are there (got paint tins at the mo' to give footrest height) it will be much easier!!

Up early as usual today. Just returned from the workshop after a 5.30 start. Im not allowed to make any noise outside in the garage until about 8.30am,cos SWMBO and mini swmbo, moans!So I went over to the workshop to turn up some spacers I need for my fuel tank mount.An hour later and I emerged with them.Not bad considering I had to find the 1 1/2"steel bar,cut 4 pieces to size,then machine 10mm holes in them down the centres,and face off the ends to length.
  Yesterday went to check with the co thats rolling my tank steel ,they hadnt started it yet,so this may hold me up,as I cant set the brackets on the frame for it until I know more about the tank size etc. Ive got a dealine of Friday night to have all the welding ready ,with jigs made in places,strip the trike to the frame,and load it in my Dutton ready for welding on Saturday.
  I can weld OK with a stick welder,in fact sometimes I'm tempted to weld brackets to the frame.I'm making all the minor bits like h/lamp brackets etc,but want to leave the major stuff,ie pedals,pegs,tank final welds to bracketry etc to a trusted welder who did the main frame(same guy as pie used).So what I do is tack weld bits to the frame ,and pay a visit to the welder guy once Ive got a few bits ready.He is a perfectionist,and doesnt really like mig welding over or across my arc welds ! You can actually hear the welder change note as he welds across the tacks. By my calcs,this should be the last time the frame goes to him! Sorry to ramble!

Ramble away matey.
I'm deeply jealous -both of your ability to machine bits & pieces at a moment's notice, (I have to beg favours from various mates then wait till they've got the time & materials to do it), & of your ability to get up early! I'm a Postie so get up at 4.30 every morning & 3.30 on Saturdays. When my day off comes around I really struggle to get up & motivated much before lunchtime!
Looking forward to seeing some piccies of your progress so far.

Got a call at 3.30 today ,"We're rolling your steel right now,come and get it " As you can guess I was in the Dutton ,quick as! On the way there I stopped off to get a threaded boss to fit my petrol tap to the tank....£1 ..bargain! And the rolled steel was £20 ,not £25 as quoted. Happy as a pig in s***.Back home ,WHEW! it fits! I guessed the bracketry distances etc so chuffed with that! BUT it took me many hours today to set up the frame for the tank mounts! What a b****** working in 3d!...... Got the h/lamps tacked up.......Trial fitted,yet again  ::)the pillion back rest. This is gonna be a cruiser type trike.
Up again early tomorrow,more lathe work!tank end caps to cover the hole where the valve sat. Also need to shorten the threaded boss I got for the petrol tap,so I'll chop it off in the vice,and then face it off in the lathe.
  Andy. You gotta remember that I used to be in the same position as you are the begging of favours ,borrowed garages etc. I just consider myself extremely lucky to have the use of all this equipment!
   Im no lathe expert by any means,but I get by from what I learnt at school ,all those years ago. I guess it sank in and I retained it ,cos I was interested in what the teacher had to say ! Im envious that you can weld ! This alone is giving me probs having to strip it down to transport it!
  Also remember without you showing that it can be done ,even under stress and logistical (big word) probs  you have,it has inspired many ,including me! Im used to car building ,or should that be adding bits on ,and re-working the rest? I would never have attempted this if I hadnt come across the Manky chassis build article,which led me to this forum and then a chassis from the ground up . When I get people looking in the garage they always ask where I got the chassis ,and dont seem to believe me when I say it started out as a couple of lengths of tube and a pile of 3x2 timber for the jig!!!!

That Manky Monkey has a lot to answer for  ::)

Oh right, blame the Monkey.  :P
I chose wood work at school instead of metal work, cos it looked easier!
My big brother Brock trained as an engineer when he left school, then changed careers to become a carpenter.
Hurry up & post some photos Rod -I'm curious to see this creation now.  :)

(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1107.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1106.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1107.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1114.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1135.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1108.jpg)

Interesting. Got any overall shots?
-not piccies of your overalls, but of the trick tricycle.  :) 

For some reason the pics were ok yesterday,but now all I see is a red'x' in the corner!No overall shots ,as havent ever taken it out of the garage in its rolling state!

you tease  ;D

Piccies look fine here mate.

They seem to have come back up now!
 self explanatory pics ,apart from the wooden jig with diagonal slots in it. Its the former for my footplate grid. Would you believe Ive run out of the 20x5 stainless ,and gotta go buy another whole length for the sake of approx 2ft!Hey Ho!
  My original idea was to build the trike in a large shed I re furbed just for the build. I was gonna build the basic frame on the jig in the garage then transfer over. The floor in the shed is too wobbly to set angles correctly. Frame has gotta come out of garage for final welding on Saturday,so when i get the frame back Im thinking I may tranfer over into the shed ,as all the angle setting is now done ,and also I can easily pull it out of there into the daylight ,to have a look now and then.Whereas my Merc is blocking the front door at present.I also think it will help having new surroundings to work in . Getting bored in the garage !TBH I havent had the urge to look at it from a distance.I keep looking at the front end and wishing I hadnt raked the front frame tubes as much. I think it looks too long,and could be about 6 or 9 ins shorter with more upright tubes. If it wasnt for all the re setting,Id lop the front of the frame off!
   Rod

My very humble opinion:
chop them off & re-do them now
If you're not happy with the frame now, you won't be in 6 months time when it's all painted & kitted out. At the moment it'll only cost you a couple of lengths of tube & your own time. That's the beauty of building something yourself -you can change anything you want to as often as you fancy.
And you're right about the change of scenery thing -boredom kills creativity stone dead.

Gonna go out and have a measure to see what the realistic amount is I would gain by doing the deed!at the moment theyre about the same as t b's.
 On another note ,just had a real result. Made a frame for my battery (sort of an open tray)Was wandering around outside looking for something like aly or stainless to clad it with,found a whole load of stainless door kick plates! all still with coating on . all about 30" x 12" .So plenty there to get what I need out of!Gotta go to see a mate to get them guillotined and bent tomorrow.Theyre too hard a steel to bend in my little vice mounted bender or Id give them a try.

Just had a look! I reckon that I would shorten it by 6 inches(ooer) if I brought the tubes more upright.At the mo' they are 25 degrees from vert. I cant really justify all that effort and huge cost to do it Im afraid!

Too long? i think you should put that to the vote, i realise its a pain in the ar** for you, but please, lets see a full photo as it stands. In the main you will get honest opinions from us all, if it looks wrong you`ll soon know  ;D. I believe the builder to be his own biggest critic, and other peoples views can well be an eye opener.
The other good thing about seeing a complete photo is, you can view it as someone else does, and not as the pile of tubes you have spent months welding and grinding, trust me on this, its worth it  ;)

Yes tb ,youre right,and Ive been wrangling over this for quite a time.No good asking anyone in this household ..they dont 'do' bikes! I think the reason it looks long is that my top tube ,which is parallel to the ground,has nothing on top of it.. ie no tank. It tends to make that area a bit spindly and low looking.       Last night I taped a piece of tube on top of it,along its length,and it gave the whole thing some height ,and took away the spindly look.Once the frame is back ,I'll assemble it and take side view pics outside.
    Rod
   

you know it makes sense  ;D

Welding almost complete. Battery box nearly finished . A workshop visit today to bend up and fashion the box lid(cos they got hard edged metal tables to bash the aly edges over on!)Doubt if I 'll get a nice finish to the top,so Ive arranged the sides in polished s/s and the top in aly ,cos easier to work . I'll paint the aly same as frame,which will allow me the odd bit of filler on the corners if I mess it up!

Photos! We need photos!

OK ..This is the base frame and sides........
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1141.jpg)
 Have welded a bolt to the side of the battery for the earth terminal.(out of shot)
 The blob of weld at to the right is the head of a welded bolt that is one of the fixings,this will bolt to the gussetting of the frame.
  Sides will be held on with 6mm allen head s/s bolts.
The battery with the side removed...The rear and end will stay there permanently
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1142.jpg)
 The complete thing . I had to raise one side to clear the terminals of the battery. Couldnt make it same depth right across ,as frame intruded!
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1143.jpg)
 The corner panel will be cut out to fit a removable panel to hold the ign switch and other switches.
 Will have to paint the lid after p40'ing the end piece as it was such a barstuard to shape ,as I predicted.
 Cant show it insitu as not got frame back yet.

That's very tidy Rod.
One of the things I still don't seem to have learnt is to make the 'leccy box as big as possible. You think you've got masses of room for the battery, fuses, relays, etc, but once you start fitting it all, that spare room gets eaten up very quickly. Making the access as wide as you can is a good idea too. Very nice mate.

Heres a pic of the seat I built .Its chequer plate aly shaped ,with a plywood laminated about 1" wide around underside edge ,to give me a base to staple to . I tried the ply right across the width of the seat but it wasnt plyable enuf. You can also see the brackets for the rear springs I fitted (also the hinge bolts are in on the front of the seat)I wasnt gonna fit these yet ,but after talking to Pie(met him yesterday) I think I'll do this now!
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1128.jpg)
 Im using a cut up old double m/bike seat for the foam ,covered with camping mat foam ,which I liberated from my camping gear.

Clutch pedal ,roughly cut out.
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1110.jpg)
 I welded the peg to a section of tube ,so that I could slide it along the frame and clamp it with hose clips 'til I got the position right for me.The other clips are holding the bush and carrier for the clutch pedal . I did the same set up to get the positions right. This set up ,slung under the frame transfers the lever to the inside of the frame to allow a straighter operation of the clutch operating rod.The lever is attached by a squared off end on a piece of 19mm bar ,with a 10mm thread machined on the end. The lever will then have a collar that fits over the 19mm bar ,and welded to the side of the lever. This will have a roll pin thro the collar and across the bar and thro the collar on the other side (belt and braces!)Yo can just see the end of the 10mm thread on the inside of the frame.Havent finalised the lengths of the pedal and lever,so will wait to finalise this when first ridden .I reckon Ive got it right tho' as I can easily push the pedal down to operate the clutch ,with 2 fingers.(oo er) Yeah it looks rough a the moment ,but is already looking better after final welding. Will pretty it all up later.

Coming together nicely. The pedal pivots on my red Reliant & on Flap's orange one are underslung in the same way.
We've yet to meet Mr Pie -maybe cos we keep hassling him for a write-up on his trike!

Nice bloke!

All these "little bits n pieces" seem to take forever to do don`t they? But you`ve managed to get tons done since the last picturial update, keep up the good work mate.

Ive written a list now! Every time I cross sumat off,it seems I add another forgotten bit to do!
  Another early morning lathe session today . Got the h/bar ends made up to fit the 7/8" switch gear and grips.Gotta get them plug welded in at some point.

Hey Rod, good to meet you the other day! If I can help with anything you know where I am, just give me a shout.

Mr Monkey, just goes to show I need to work on my 'first impressions' technique as I met you at last years hot rod drags and had a brief chat with you.

Head like a sieve ::)  ;D

Memory span of a goldfish.
Yeah, I admit I'd completely forgotten that encounter. Apologies Mr Pie -we did indeed chat. Nothing personal, honest! I need a poke with a stick from time to time to remind me about all sorts of stuff. I write lists, then forget where I've put them.  >:(

No wonder the mail is late sometimes(all the time) ;D

Who are you? Have we met?

I write lists too. Have you got mine?

I can't remember.

Spent the last couple of days cleaning ancillaries and moving my 'workshop' to my shed.
     My frames still at the welders.After a lot of discussion with various parties,when I get it back ,Im gonna assemble the basic bits to get it rolling ,then pull it out of the shed into the daylight! Discussions  and fat chewing will then occur on site about its length (oo er!) I/we will then make a descision about chopping the front end of the frame off ,and bringing the front tubes more upright.I dont really want to do this a) cos I cant be arsed and b) cos Im in too deep with the build,but I know its the only way I'm gonna feel happy about the frame.this should happen in the next couple of days,I'll keep you posted!
                 Rod

If you're already that convinced it needs doing, just do it Rod. Nothing worse than finishing the build, standing back & thinking "I'm not happy with that". Do it, do it now!  ;D

Heres the latest pics........in the new work area.I already feel better working in a brighter ,bigger space.Actually got me radio working as well now! Be very honest ..what do you think of the down tube angle????
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1144.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1145.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1146.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1147.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1148.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1151.jpg)
 Been working all day on it from about 8.30 am.Got pedals and pegs more or less done ,gotta machine up the aly and knurl it tamara. Got the rear light mounts sorted.Battery bracket done ,and 3/4 way throught the h/brake and cable stop mounts.Next job is to strip it yet again to turn it over to weld the aforementioned jobs fully. Gonna weld these myself ,as they will be ok stick welded .More pics tamara.
            Rod

Hmmmmm, .........i don`t know what the heck your complaining about, looks bloody good to me  ;D.
i can see what you mean about straightening those down tubes, but the overall dimensions DON`T look bad to me, in fact, i think it would look worse shorter because you have that remote fuel tank mounted high on the back, and it may end up too cluttered. Instead of worrying over the extra room at the front, use it to your advantage......I see a nice little `dashboard` for all the warning lights  and switches you need, mounted between the headstock gussets  ;)..........n thats my honest opinion Rod.

Thanx for that TB . I appreciate your honesty. :)
 Pie came round to look,and he more or less said the same.
 Im gonna add some height to the top tube ,so it'll add a bit of bulk to that area.
 Going to do away with the adjustable  pillion backrest I made (not in pics) and add the backrest pad direct to the tank.
     Rod

That's coming along very nicely Rod bet you're pleased.  ;D Not sure about the petrol tank on the back but that's just me and it's your build not mine.

I like it! leave well alone Rod as you've got the balance about right, Morrag

That's looking great Rod. Very impressive & some fast progress. Only wish I could get my own finished so fast.
Purely personal opinion & not deriding your style in any way as it's all about doing what you want, but you did ask:
I love the swept back down tubes -makes it look sportier. Richard Noble, the land speed record guy, uses the same upholsterer I do & checking a photo of my trike, said the only change he'd make would be to angle the down tubes back. I'd use the space though to mount a bike rad inside the frame line, between engine & down tubes, rather than the Reliant rad outside the frame. Somethng like a Suzuki Intruder rad, which is long & thin. Mount a small electric bike fan as we have, but on the outside, between the frame tubes, pointing back at the radiator.
I always think the frames look sporty without the tank on the top tube. Maybe create a long thin, tapered dummy tank to hold the gauges or switchgear or coil etc, but without messing up the side profile of the top tube. Like the rear fuel tank, but would personally mount it much lower, level with the top of the rear tyres. That'd still give you enough height for a pillion to rest the small of their back against it. Ideally, if you're incorporating a pillion, make a cut out in the front of the tank for them to sit into.
Just my ideas.  ;)

Thanks guys for the opinions ,I asked for your honesty ,so no worries about offending me,Im scrutinizing each one,keep 'em coming!
 I actually did think about a bike rad,after I visited a local bike breakers and saw the fantastic shapes of the rads!My only concern about using one is the water flow . I dont know what sort of power the bike water pumps have vs the Reliant pump. Do they pump harder to push the water thro' smaller tubes or summat? I also dont know what surface area they have ,and if the'formula' for working it all out is the same as for a car. EG.. a 1000cc bike has less rad area than a 1000cc car,as apparently the bikes run a lot hotter? And would I need a oil cooler to also help with the cooling etc etc . I have tried the reliant rad inside the frame to fill the gap,p'raps its just me,but I dont think it looks right. Will mock it up and take pics.......
 Yes I did think about dropping the tank originally ,but wanted the pillion to feel more secure with something behind them.When you say 'make a cut out' Andy ,do you mean 'scoop' out part of the front of the tank in a curve? I chose the rear tank to allow me to 'up' the capacity of fuel ,as I just cant be arsed with petrol stops sometimes!I tried a conventional mounted bike tank and due to top tube length it didnt look right. I also considered a long squarish tank in conventional place .I realise the tank makes the bike look longer,and may change it.
 From what I can calculate I reckon this trike is about 6" longer than an upright down tube frame,Andys id poss shorter as he has a shorter prop as well.
 Andy...its still gonna take me ages to get this done ,no matter how fast progress appears!
 Im now going out there to have a sit........ and a stare......... and ponder !
 
  ADDED..I'm back! Just mocked up a card tank over the top tube ,I'm still not convinced! I could drop the (rear) tank by 4",to just above the diff.Hmmmmmore pondering me thinks...... ;D
 
  Has anyone noticed the trike pic on the door? I think thats Muffins trike , had it enlarged and used it as a rough scale guide!!

Ive now decided.........
 What Ive done is mocked up the seats to the heights they will be when on the intended scissor springs. This ,together with roughly setting the handle bar height by mole gripping them on to the risers, 'loses' the height of the tank,and to me changes the whole look of the trike. Im now happy ,but will visit the breakers to look at rads and talk to them about water flow. Worth a try I s'pose!

Yeah, looks like Mr Muffin's from what I can see of it.
A few years back I was having problems with the carburation on my green Reliant. The new issue of Back Street Heroes came out & had a black Reliant trike in it, very like mine. Belonged to a guy from Yorkshire called Sandy & was for his missus. He'd had a black Ducati engined chop on the cover a few months before. He was starting a bike building business so they'd included his phone number. I gave him a ring for some carb advice. Turned out he'd built his after seeing mine parked outside a pub in Stratford during the Bulldog Bash! He had a photo of mine on his garage wall.
Yes, I meant a pillion shaped scoop in the tank. I've tried coil springs on solo seats before but as you need to push quite hard against the bars to corner on a trike, I found I just pushed myself sideways on the springs, so ended up removing them again. As far as rads go, I use the Try It & See building method. I love Reliants because they're so mechanically basic & forgiving -you can take a lot of liberties with them & they just keep plugging away. Don't forget your engine will be out in the airflow all the time, rather than enclosed in bodywork, so will run cooler anyway.
So let's see some piccies of the new mock-up then!  ;D

Surely if the front hinge part is set up correctly with enuf steel pushing against the sides of the hinge,and not just relying on the pivot pin to hold it in line ,it should be ok.I actually anticipated this when I built the hinge for the front seat.

Just my personal experience mate. I used the standard front pivot  & 3 inch coils. If you're using scissor or hairpin springs you might not have the problem. Maybe I was just too damn fat for the springs!  :P

Muffin's Reliant trike, photographed this very afternoon at the Popham airfield Megameet bike show & jumble.

Still looking good!

Another long day today. Got the h/brake mechanism done ,just gotta get cables and adjusters. Handlebar ends stepped down to 7/8" ,and large holes drilled in bars ready to plug weld the step downs are now assembled and tacked up,after re shaping the risers to blend in more.Mudguards mocked up to get ideas on sizes etc. Could be slow progress for the next few days due to going back to work tamara after 2 weeks leave.

Work! the bane of a shed builders life  ;D

Still wrangling over a bike rad in this trike.Anyone any comments?

im using a gpz 600r rad,its out in the open so i cant see a problem

What engine is that on then?

Just been to the bike breakers. He reckons there isnt a rad fitting my requirements,so its back to the Reliant one!

850 reliant.

Heres a mock up ,still not sure about rad. Have hatched a plan for it to go in front of the down tubes as originally envisaged,but closer in to the tubes with a open front casing over it to make it smoother looking ,and less obtrusive.Will paint the casing to 'lose' the profile a bit.
 The tank doesnt stick out like a sore thumb now ,as the seats are mocked up at about their correct height.
 Have also changed the 'bar risers to be more swoopy since photo taken.And I think that the bars arent as angled now ,as the angle in the pic hurt my right wrist a bit.
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1166[1].jpg)

Im knackered!...for the last 2 days Ive been poncing around solely trying to make the rad and its mountings look better.Wasted time building rad casings in aly and in steel.The boxing ,apart from looking crappy,seemed to restrict the airflow (here I go again! ;D)Thought I could do it without a plan ,and just 'wing it',but It didnt work out ! But in the last hour a completely new,"simples" idea  seems to have come together! Not quite there yet ,but a new start tamara should see it finished ,at least in its raw state. Depending how you look at it,I suppose all this development time hasnt been wasted.Hey Ho!
               Rod

Shed time is never wasted time!
Don't forget this is supposed to be fun Rod -the challenges are what keeps it interesting -so they tell me.
JJ has posted a couple of pics of her Reliant trike, built by Mick from Kent. Can't remember which threads they were posted in but more than likely taken by her other half Chevy Rick. Hers has lots of panelled in sections, including around the radiator I believe. Yet to see it in the flesh but looks very well put together.
The "simples" ideas are usually the best.

im a bit biased on this blanking of pipes. if you do blank them off make sure you know the history of the engine. if its been run with no coolant the chances are that no4 cyl will have a corroded liner blocking the water circulation and what happens as a result two things can happen it will sieze and push the liner up giving the impression of a blown head gasket.(this is whats happened to the engine i got from byzmax not a problem to put right if you know what your doing) secondly it,ll run very hot and eventually wear out and die! what i,ve always done is to link them together. this is just my view on it i really cant offer anymore advice cheers toad!

All my Reliants so far have had the rear cylinder feed linked across to one of the water pump outlets -that's the hose the bleed nipple was fitted in on my last trike. I've blanked the rear cylinder feed on my present trike build because Ska Man tried it & it seemed to work. However I've yet to run mine like that as I'm still building it, so I'm more than happy to bow to your greater experience Mr Toad & hook it back up again. Muffin found a right angled plumbing fitting that screwed into the head in place of the rear hose spigot. That meant he could run that top hose tucked in lower to the rocker cover rather than in a big arch of rubber hose. Much tidier. I think I'll do the same. I'm very happy to admit I certainly don't know everything & can -& do -learn as much here as everyone else.  ;)

On an A series engine,if I recall correctly,the pipe running from the front (top hose) ran along side the rocker cover in copper tube,to the rear of the cyl head. I think it 't'd into the heater tap there.

Yeah, I'm thinking of doing Taz's trike hoses in copper with rubber at each end, plus copper brake lines, just to give it a more vintage look.

Just remembered . The pipe I mentioned,ran from top hose ,to the heater ,then thro' heater matrix back to the heater tap on the back of the head.So turning off the heater at the tap,effectively stops the flow of water to the back of the head? Hmmmm...Im sure Im right.

You are. I'd forgotten that too. Part of Ska Man's argument for blanking it off.

Because running that pipe wont be too unsightly in Stainless ,I think I'll do it,just for safety.

Another day in the garage over . Achieved = nothing!! 3 freaking days on the radiator mounts. Each time I do it ,I chop them off and start again! Im realy pee'd off now ,so intend to leave it for a few days,but it will do my head in sitting thinking about it ,so will prob end up out there sooner than I think! ARGHHHHH!

your doing the right thing mate, shut the door n walk away, there is life outside the shed  ;)

Been there myself recently -not in your shed Rod, at the Argh! stage of the build.
Everybody goes through it, some only once, some every other week. It is supposed to be an enjoyable passtime though, so don't give up. As TB says, just take a break for a while. I often find that's when inspiration finally hits. You can get too involved in a project & focused on just one answer to a problem. With a bit of thinking room you might come up with a completely different solution.  ;)

Wahoooo! I,ve sorted it at last! ;D ;D ;D Built the brackets,just gotta tack it up to the frame tamara ,then build a mesh front on the rad.Pics tamara..............

There ya go.  :)

Good on ya mate.. ;D

Heres what Ive achieved today........Couldnt get a good clear shot in one ,so views from both sides...But you get the idea..... The frame on the front will have expanded metal (cant find any punched hole stuff worth the money)in it ,held in with small bolts thro' the 4  small tabs Ive welded in ,plus a fillet of Gripfill neatly laid on the front and back around the edge of the grille against the frame. Gripfill can be overpainted ,and I'll paint the whole lot black or whatever. The grille frame is held in with the four allen head bolts. The rad bolts ,as all the bolts on the trike will be upgraded to better quality at a later date.Only prob ive got is I had to chop off the right angle bend in the bottom hose connection .If left on ,i wouldve had to leave a gap between rad and frame to allow the hose to come out of the gap. I had this originally,and it didnt look right.Have left a stub of pipe on the bottom tank ,so that I can solder on a piece of brass tube over the stub. This will give a straight take off .Bracket welds to the frame look crap,but are very strong . I will fill over them at frame painting stage.Those brackets took a very long time to make and drill out so that they were  symmetrical!Ive fitted the fan immediately behind the rad ,in the triangular gap which is formed by the down tubes and cross tube . It fits exactly (as pre planned ,of course !........NOT! ;D)You can just see the residue of one of the other attempts ,still waiting to be ground off on the down tube!
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1202.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1201.jpg)

That looks very tidy Rod. Very well thought out &, having to make all my own brackets by hand, I know just how long they can take. Nice. I like the frame around the mesh grille. My trike's got perforated stainless sheet but it could really do with an edging around it like that. Lookin' good.  :)

Still not happy with my welds of brackets to frame tho'! I can bench weld and downward weld fine with my arc welder,but cant get to grips with angular welds!Once I strip it all down for final welding,I can position the frame individually for each joint,to suit my welding technique ,and lay some nice looking beads on!

Just like your good self then sir   :-* :-* :-*

Ageing gracefully I like to think.  :)

Acquired some 20mm steel conduit ,and bent up as a trial,some rear mudguard brackets. They look far too flimsy to me. The new type tube didnt seem as thick walled as some old building rip out stuff Ive got,which is about 40 yrs old.But havent got enuf of it.So...went for a wander this morning over to the builders compound on site. Practiced my usual disease of Rubbish Constipation (cant pass a skip ;D) There was some 20mm offcuts there ,which were much thicker walled ,and heavier galved as well.So I guess there are different types.      Had anuver butchers at the brackets and decided they must be constructed in heavier tube ,which IMHO looks too clumsy.Just got enuf offcuts of 3/4" bore ERW to do the basic bottom end of the mounts,then will use 20mm conduit slid inside it for the top part.The "step" between the 2 will be covered later with summat interesting............Next step is to chop all the odd bits of tube up and machine all the ends square . Will post pics later of my attempts.

Copied from another thread on Rod's behalf:

Well,after a lot of thought and hours of measuring/pondering,we decided that the best way is to get it up and running,then test ride it on a local airfield,which will also give me an incentive to finish it! S-o-o-o-o...I'm now gonna finish all the little odds and sods,like making the pedal and peg aly covers/running all the wiring ,but only wiring up the engine /buying some re-con rear calipers etc. In fact everything needed to make it go/stop will be done. Then we will look at what ever rears its ugly head(or not) on the test run.Either way I will then strip it and re-do the troublesome bits we,ve found or strip it to paint it and finish it. This whole process could take sometime,but as I said Ive got a massive incentive now!
       I still havent got my head round the route for the flexy brake pipes from forks to bridge the gap to the frame,so I'll be watching TB's thread closely..........
        Another prob I have is a bolt is broken that clamps one of the fork front legs together to hold the front spindle,so Ive either gotta drill it out or use a thread extractor.
      I also need to make spacers for the front spindle ,as The speedo drive isnt there ,and the wheel is sliding left/right on the spindle!
   Gotta also locate a brake compensating valve,and some half shaft end nuts.
    Headlights are done ,mudguards will now wait until later,(altho they are designed) along with the marker lights which are ordered .Rear lights are also done.Handle bars are done.
         Rod
 

Sounds like a plan mate, i seem to remember Desperate Dan once saying that he would often build, strip, build, strip, anything up to 5 times before the final assembly. Im following a similier line with mine, i`m going for a complete dry build , get it all up and running, then strip it all down again for painting.
I`m not going to be a lot of use re your brake hose issue i`m afraid, at the moment i`m leaning toward seperate front/rear brakes, with the front calipers lever operated on the bars (traditional setup), so my flexis will run up the forks. I`ve not commited myself yet though, next time i`m in the shed i`ll take a proper look.

Amid the saga in my other read regarding the fork problem  :'( ,I'm now at the stage I get to in any build ,where Im throwing money at it at a hell of a rate,buying all the little odds and sods like fan belt,wheelbearings ,switches etc etc ,that allows me to finish it and get it running. Add to that the cost of the fork balls up ,and its quite a few quid,all for "unseen" bits.
 Some work Im doing for the shake down runs,eg brakes,have obviously got to be right,so they will be the finished article,but other bits will be basic,eg wiring,just to get it running ,with an ign switch and a kill switch wired.The ign switch needs a mount,so I thought Id better finish the battery box properly. In the past Ive made huge lists of stuff to do,but this time Im not bothering. I just go in the garage and do whatever comes to mind .Or take measurements of stuff to be machined up one evening ,and machine them the next evening.A lot of my attention at present is around the axle area. This means calipers have been sent off to reds,w/brgs ordered,brackets made for h/brake.Battery box has been fitted and refitted ,and fitted and......you know the deal!
              Rod

Sounds like you're a very busy bunny. Grab a piccie of the progress when you get a chance eh.  ;)

Just a quick ,non pic update....
 Been working every spare minute on the Trike. Got a bit of leave coming up at end of October (half term) so hoping to bring it to a stage of being able to test ride it by end of that week!

Bloody 'ell! I've been building mine, on & off, for the last couple of years & still not got it mobile!
Well done Rod.

good on yrs Rod :)

Dont forget Andy, that.....
 a) Im only getting the basics wired /piped up and running,the frame needs paint ,yours is more finished in that respect.
 b)The tried and tested frame design has allowed me to really push ahead with this without too many worries about strength etc.
 c)The help Ive received on this forum has contributed to the speed of the build so far.
 d)Still got a long way to go before MSVA !
             Rod

I feel so much better about mine now
....somebody help me!  :(

Today I machined up some outer cable stops ,and some large nipples (oo er!) for the Vehicle Wiring Products inner and outer cable to fit to my rear calipers.

I wish I had a lathe -& the skill to use it.  :(

Heres a few pics ....Hope they help someone along the build process!
 Finished brake set up o/side,I machined the outercable stops ,didnt know what they looked like on the golf.Made the nipples from s/steel.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1268[1].jpg)
This is a blurred shot of the g/lever ala terror tuby. It is the prototype ,but worked so well I will remake it after the shakedown runs.

(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1275[1].jpg)
The elecs box in progress!All wires will eventually be rununder or along side the frame in a tube ,hidden.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1269[1].jpg)
H/brake mechanism.This will be covered with a piece of s/steel shaped to suit.The t piece for the brakes will be hidden inside the stainless bracket that is wrapped round the axle tube. The mechanism will work ok,but Im not too sure about this whole area and set up as it looks shabby. May re build it ,or cover it in the stainless as mentioned.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1272[1].jpg)
 This is the brake block I had made to connect the front pipes. ..One pipe either end ,the other comes in from thro' the gusset.(oo er!)This will allow the pipe to run under the main tube from the t piece situated in the battery box.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1276[1].jpg)
 An overall view. You can just make out the seat springs. I made the seat hinge from s/s.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1277[1].jpg)
 l/h side. The down pipe was a barsteward to get right ,will be covered in either wrap or a heatshield over that area.I hacked up a complete brand new Reliant exhaust for those bends!Got some bends ala Andy for the rest of the system,welded them together,but waiting to get some 'bike exhaust clamps in S/SThe clutch linkage is still in progress ,as I dont know about how much 'throw' it will need to operate until I get it fired up.Once I know ,I can then remove it and clean off all the excess steel etc.The threaded rod is to be replaced with s/steel rod I have.Will make proper spacers for the Alt bracket at a later date!The bolts protruding from the footpegs will be replaced with grub screws. They are bearing onto the bolts welded to the frame. The aly peg has recessess in the ends to take the nuts that will also hold them on.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1271[1].jpg)
 r/h side.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1270[1].jpg)

Looking good mate, the trike that is, not you  ;D. All that done in double quick time, you`ll be on the road before me.

thats proper tidy m8 :)

jeez i wish mine was making progress as quick!!!!!

Looking very busy in your garage Rod! Great progress. I'm deeply jealous!
What are the 2 curving tubes at the back of the luggage rack? Would be very interested in more detail on that gearstick conversion.

The 2 tubes are the cylindrical fuel tank mounts.
 Andy,...this effort of mine is just run of the mill to your masterpiece! As I said before ,Im no bike builder and my effort  is honestly 90 per cent down to the  helpfulness of this site ! There are many on here much more knowledgable than me!I mean ,take TB(get well soon)..there I was thinkin' he was a shed monkey ,now he's gettin' all technical quoting wire sizes and amps ;D!
 Oldskoob...glad you got on here mate ,and welcome!
                  Rod
 
 

Back to the plot....I wanted to house the brake t pieces and compensator in the battery box. They actually physically fit in there ,quite tight for space. BUT when I came to pipe it all up ,I couldnt fit the pipe bends in there as well ,without them getting dangerously close to elec terminals ,IE danger of shorting out .Also they look a mess.I have a new plan which should be a lot cleaner and less cluttered,and above all safer from wire connections etc.This may mean me having to go buy another roll of brake pipe ,but will be worth the expense for safety.

I take umbridge at your earlier comment, i may not be the most technically minded here, i`m certainly not the most talented and my design ideas are non existent, but i am, and always will be a shed monkey  ;D ;D

shame you couldnt hang around for a bit on  sunday mate.  when you turned up you made it 4 trike builders in my garage at one time . thats a new record mate.
there seems to a few of us around braintree, could be good for a few runs next year!!!

Just been updating myself on your progress Rod. Nice bit of progress.

Trike is looking very Tidy..

Proper job.. Super, Great, Smashin..... ;D

keep it up ;)

TB...........I stand corrected young man! (*bows*)
           ;D Your most 'umble servant... ;D
           Rod

Aarghhhhhhhh!!!!!
 Ponced about today ,1)cant get a good brake pedal! Have bled the system about 10 times!AND I bled it from all the unions as well! Afew pumps of the pedal produces a semi hard pedal,and the fluid drops drastically in the m/cyl at each pump. When I let the pedal go ,the fluid gradually comes back up in the m/cyl!Gotta be air in there somewhere!
  2) Despite having new points and condenser, a good spark at the plugs ,and fuel in the carb ,the engine wont start!
 .....just going to launch a few things in the shed!!!!

Hi Rod been following your build looking good. brake master cylinder seals may be worn fluid passing when you pump peddle. have you put the plug leads on right.try swapping thenover ie 1to4  2to3 check basic timing see where rotor arm is that no 1

Dont forget that this was a running engine when you fitted it, so its lack of starting has to be something basic. not wishing to teach anyone how to suck anything but..... is it fireing? you may fuel in the carb but is it coming out again?
Your master cylinder is new so unlikely to be knackered seals (although not impossable), try jacking up one rear wheel and leave it overnight with the nipple open, any trapped air should then have time to make its way upward.

Starting (lack of!)..... Yes it was all running before removal ,havent altered the dist or anything. Just took cap and leads off . Didnt mark there location ,but have stAtic timed it (about 6 times) Fitted new points/ condenser . Points spark is fair. Wired coil direct to battery to by pass any switches that may have dodgy connections.Coil wires correct way round. tried another coil.DIST CAP LOOKS NEW . LEADS ARE THE CARBON TYPE. tOOK OUT PLUGS ONE BY ONE AND EARTHED THEM TO BLOCK =VERY STRONG SPARKS ON ALL.(oops caps!)Plugs look new.Refitted plugs in head ,cap on ,turns over but not firing.plugs are wet with fuel on removal,so fuel must be getting thro'. Was wondering ,is there summat like an earth wire from block to head,that may be missing?? The wire connecting the base plate to the top plate inside the dist was dodgy ,its a sort of multi stranded cotton covered wire. I re insulated it with a piece of slit down insulation from another wire ,. It wasnt firing previous to this!Tomorrows job is to replace all leads with copper ones,but I doubt its that! This brings me to the carb......I have a thick gasket between carb and inlet ,and a thin one from small inlet to main inlet. Should it be a thick one on the bottom as well?I had this prob about 30 odd yrs ago with a weber on a 1500 pre x flow Ford. In a previous post Andy reckoned it didnt matter?
  Brakes........If I shut the proportioning vale ,which is near the rear axle ,I get a better pedal. Was wondering a) is the air in the system AFTER the valve OR does shutting the valve just 'compartment' the system cutting down the air in the pipes movement?M/cyl is new.Pipes and t's are new,calipers are reds reconned.All pipe ends ,bar one, are new.I have bled every union starting at the m/cyl.
  Any comments appreciated!
 SMALL UPDATE...Have tried altering the position of number 1 lead ,and re doing the firing order using each plug as no1. Not even a cough from the engine.

Another daft question, did you pump the pedal to set the rear pads after you installed them? The caliper pistons will be fully rewound to enable fitment of the pads, pumping the pedal pushes the pistons back out and sets the pads against the disc.

See your point ,but I couldnt pump the pedal ,as I hadnt bled them out by then!! Funnily enuf ,when I open the nipple on each caliper the fluid doesnt 'squirt'out ,it only splutters.Putting the bleed tube into a jar of fluid produces no bubbles .I did operate the handbrake a couple of times before bleeding started.Was thinking about getting one of those eazibleed thingys ,but theyre about £50!
 btw you say "wound " in ? so how do they wind out?
 
 Does the engine need back pressure ,ie a silencer fitted to start? Ive only got the down pipe on a t present!

i`d still look at jacking one corner and leaving it a few hours.

So the air may find its way upward? never heard of that method!

you should have.... i wrote it up there just now  ;D. It does sound to me like an air lock.

if you got a spark on the plugs the electrics should be ok. static time the engine to tdc. on compression stroke where the rotor arm points to on cap thats no 1 lead.no 1 cylinder is near rad .the rotor turn anti clockwise. firing order is 1 3 4 2

1) Check firing order.

2) If plugs are dry after attempted start, irrespective of choke cover cab inlet with a bit of cardboard (prevents burns to hands in case of backfire) this will draw through more fuel and temporarily negate any air ingress at gaskets.

3) Back pressure only affects performance; engine should start even with no exhaust.

Id like to introduce you to my new hobby.........Trying to start the f****ing Reliant! Tried all the tricks ,not even a cough !Moved the dist. a fraction at a time both directions ,NOTHING!Strong spark at plugs ,but are they breaking down once they are being asked to ignite the fuel in the chambers? The shed stinks of petrol . After trying I take the plugs out ,they are wet with fuel. try them by shorting them to the block ..they fire perfectly!Checked the firing order and static timing so many times that I woke up in my sleep shouting 1-3-4-2! 1-3-4-2!  ;D SWMBO thought I was quoting a position in the Karma Sutra! ;D And Im now looking and smiling at the very heavy hammer standing in the corner of the shed!............Hmmmmm................Just grip the handle with my hand,...swing ,.............hmmmm.....and it'll all be over! ...hmmmmm!

rod pm me your no i,ll ring you and try to sort it over the phone cheers toad

I'll try ANYTHING! pm'd...............

hI Rod. you have gone through all the main bits to do with the ignition/timing ect. next thing is fuel.how old is the petrol .try dipping a rag in the tank. go out side and put a match to it to see if it ignites. i had a bike that had been standing for some time and it would not start. petrol vapour smells. but when i tested it . it would not burn .change petrol and it started

Its new petrol! Toad 'phoned earlier ,and suggested a few things which may be the cause. Apparently the timing marks on the pulley could be way off! I was beginning to wonder if I had a dist cap with posts in the wrong place,cos I couldnt get it at tdc AND get the points at the place where they were just about to open ,or thereabouts..  Just b4 he 'phoned I had it running for about 30 secs! Recharged battery and flattened it ! wont start again!The timing must be super critical! Ive never known an engine like it! Ive now wired the 'start' button on the bars to make it easier to throttle it and turn it over at same time.Anyways ,started to make silly mistakes out there now cos Im knackered ,so another day tamara! I'll be out there at about 5 am! guaranteed!B'stard thing! Theres always bonfire night ...hmmmmmmm..!

Timing arggggh......10deg BTDC.......did you know that?
I`m sure Toad would have known.....Yeah i know you need it running first, but its something to think about when static timing.

i knew you`d know  ;)
spose someone had best do a write up on setting the timing n dizzy properly at some point.....anyway i digress

I had good fuel in there from the outset.As I said,difficult to set 10 deg btdc. Hope the battery lasts long enuf this time...Ive now got a ball park window,will keep moving dist a fraction at a time until it fires.
  What is needed is a sticky that explains how to spot if the timing marks dont line up.

Still no joy ! Not even a cough ! Think I 'll give up for a few days to recuperate!

Right, when all else fails, go back to basics. The Reliant motor is very much in the traditional Brit. "cooking" engine style of the past, similar to Morri 1000's and the like, so, just in case the timing marks are wrong, which I doubt, pull the plugs, turn over the motor with a spanner on the crank to find TDC on No1 cylinder by placing your thumb over the plug hole!and feeling for compression. Ensure that the skew gear drive of the distributor is secure, I have had them shear their curl pins, insert dist.in place,with a fag paper between points and turn dist. clockwise until it just releases the paper. Yeah I know, this is not very accurate as regards degrees before TDC and all that, but for this type of motor, it's good enough for the mill to start. If you doubt your fuel supplies or suspect air locks, make up a quart test tank and feed carb. by gravity. Now warm your plugs on the stove, give each cylinder a squirt of fuel, from a syringe or similar, install plugs, throttle closed, no choke, and give it a try, it really should run. Once it does you can 'tweek' the timing, and carburation. This type of motor, if they have been standing a while, need a little encouragement initially, but having run the first time are thereafter fine. One last thing if it has been standing, squirt a little oil into each bore, then spin it over with the plugs out to clear the oil, which will also create an initial piston to bore seal, on a "dry" well used engine, before trying the above. I hope this helps,its "old school" ,"get you out of trouble" 'mechaniking'!but has worked for me many times over the years,so best of..... Morrag

something i posted many moons ago this might help? but im gonn ring you anyway!
.
.
thirdly ign timing. can be fun trying to get this right as not all engines like the factory settings! if you look at the timing mark on the pulley 10deg btdc divide in half so you get 5deg btdc then half again to get 2.5deg btdc then play with the timing! you,ve got six variations there! try each setting with or without the vacum advance pipe fitted! you,ll know when you,ve got it right as the motor wont pink or rattle and you,ll definatley notice the differance!

Toad ...pm sent......
 Morrag... I agree with what youre saying ..it should at least cough when its near the mark! It has started for about 30 secs ,then died!Ive flattened 3 batteries trying!

pm replied ;)

Right ,Ive just stripped the top of the dist down ,as it seems that when the rotor arm is in the correct spot ,I cant align the heel of the points so that they are just about to open . The heel is between 2 lobes of the dist! S--------O-O-O- Ive looked at the advance mechanism which appears to be holding the points from travelling a bit more in a clockwise direction to contact the heel.I dont think I actually made any difference to the base plate ,but a fraction may  be all thats needed.When I suck on the pipe it definitely is free to move .Im still amazed at how finecky they are to get this right ,as other makes will at least cough when its near right! Waiting for the battery to re charge to try it!

I`m not disagreeing with anything said so far...but...yeah there had to be a but.....this engine was running fine right up to the point where it was removed, since then its just been sat and as far as we know, only the leads removed....i cannot believe it needs to much fine tuning to get it fireing and running!

welcome to the world of reliant! ;D

Anyone wanna swap a reliant for a vauxhall?  ;D ;D

I'm not a mechanic & don't pretend to be. I just build vehicles around Reliant motors then blag mates to come & get 'em running if I get problems, but Reliants aren't finicky. That's part of their attraction. They're pretty bullet proof & will run quite happily whatever you throw at 'em. Fine tuning isn't a phrase you'll find in a Reliant manual! They can be way off the proper settings & still run. Not questioning your mechanicking skills Rod, but I've never had one that absolutely refuses to run at all. Even with the distributor fitted 180 degrees out, (yeah, I've done it), they'll still sort of run. It's got to be something pretty basic like a knackered dizzy or coil surely?

just a thought  i once had a simaler expieriance  a long time ago  the fault took days to find  many splinters were got by at least 5 monkey mechanics by losts of head scratchin  ;) ;)

 eventually it turned out that the timing chain was slack ( worn tensioner ) and while other jobs were being done the engine crank had been turned backwards and the chain had managed to jump a couple of teeth
not wanting to worry you but it may just be worth considering

Well, I'm with Mr M on this one, hence my advice. This type of motor ain't finicky as a general rule, and will run on the most basic of setups. I also agree with Mr T, what could have happened between it stopping in its origional use. and now?Timing chain and teeth jumping would seem doubtful under these circumstances, so don't get too technical, set it up as I suggested and give it a try, what do you have to lose? other than possibly your "rag"!!....Morrag

Oh yeah ,Ive 'lost it' a few times in the last couple of days! I agree with all that has been said ,thats why I just cant suss it! It must be summat simple ,as TB says.I tried it originally by just replacing the bits ,but no joy. The only difference was in the lack of thick gasket on the inlet ,hence my Q,s on that! The dist seemed at such a strange setting (ie the rear cap clip was very tight up against no 2 plug ) I decided to re time it as per the usual 4 pot method . Toad has enlightened me on that one tho'! along the way Ive checked /replaced most bits ,even changed the coil at one point.Ive now started checking the Carb area. Maybe flooding ,knocking out the plug sparks! Still awaiting battery to charge ,so will def keep you all posted!I had it coughing slightly last night ,but battery died.Back out to the thunder dome to have anuver go!!!
  My goal of test riding this w/end will have to wait until next w/end !

IT LIVES!!!!!!!! A bit spluttery ,but it starts. With a bit of tweaking of the carb and timing it should be a lot better! Just got told off for running it with open pipe ! The family arent up yet(or werent! ;D)
     

Ah the sound of success, not music to everyones ears early on a sunday morning  ;D
Well done mate.

glad you got it sorted ;D i had 1 other thought that might have happened in its past life??theres the simple tuning trick of removing the cam sprocket and turning it over and refitting this effectivly brings into use the (dead tooth) enableing the camshaft to alter the power curve higher up the rpm range that might explain why you have thos extra marks made on your crank pully and would also explain why the heel in the dizzy wont line up with the points ;)

Euphoria over..so what was it? Acombination of things already mentioned PLUS ..I found summat strange in the float bowl . Checked it a couple of times previously ,but never noticed...On the bottom of the fuel float (where the "SU " raised lettering is ) was what looked and felt like a thick smear of silicone ,covering up the lettering . This was about diam of a 1p piece and 1mm or so thick! Looked like a small round sticky plaster. Dunno whether it was supposed to be there ,but peeled it off. I wonder whether that was enuf to hold the float open ,therefore keep the fuel flooding in? The overflow pipe on the top never seemed to have fuel coming out of it.
           Rod

glad you sorted it rod  ;D hopfully we see some piccys of you racing round the play ground soon .  ;) gaz

Not long now! Just gotta make safe the cobbled together wiring,oil in g/box and axle,bleed rear brakes ala the method Toad explained,put the rest of the exhaust on ,and away I go!

cool 8) 8) 8)

Bit more sorted today....Went to pick up my early xmas present...Vapor digi speedo! Also got some machining done,made up some collars to fit my mismatched diam exhaust tube together.Will have it fitted and mounting brackets made from s/s tomorrow night.
 

Still sorting my brakes! Today I received some new braided brake lines to replace the copper ones I had fitted. So now I have braided lines on forks to T piece ,from T piece to T at rear ,and from the rear calipers to the chassis . I re made the hard lines across the axle.Fitted them all tonight.One prob I had was having to fit a single line banjo into a recess. I overcame this by fitting a double banjo bolt with a spacer that is exactly the same size as the round bit of the banjo ,but no hole in the side of it.(turned it up on the lathe) The spacer goes on first ,then the banjo line.  I also got hold of a couple of medium size syringes(to give meself a lethal overdose if it all goes tits up again! ;D)so looks like I will be a little bleeder again tamara!

Come & finish mine when you're done with yours please Rod! Jealous of how quickly you've got yours built.
I used a spacer under the banjo bolts on the master cylinders of my trike. Seems to work fine.
Can we have some piccies to look at please.

Been a bleeder today ;D No pedal whatsoever >:(. Tried pushing the fluid thro' from the caliper etc etc. Last resort is Ive left it with the pedal wedged down to see if the air expels that way! BUT now the whole system is under pressure ,after about half hour, Im now finding all the banjo joints are weeping fluid!This didnt show up when I bled it . So now Im guessing if fluid can get out ,then air may be getting in when trying to bleed it?? Ive tightened up all the banjos ,but exactly how tight should they be? Is there a torque setting for them? This is driving me crazy!
  Any comments appreciated!
 
 Andy ,theres not much to show really from the last pics!

I'm always worried about over tightening brake unions, but it should really only be enough to crush the copper sealing washers. Try this Rod -brake union sealant from Frost auto restoration products.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8874&frostProductName=Brake and Pipe Seal (75ml)&catID=&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&subCatID=

Wedging the pedal down is unlikely to produce a force equivalent to your foot pressure! and as the system must not leak at foot applied pressure, then you have a problem with your joints, which must be sorted before you can move on, torque settings, nope, just nice and tight!.I believe that having so much air in your system must only mean that master and/or slave cylinders are "passing". This, along with your obvious joint probs. is where your trouble lies. I have never had your degree of trouble bleeding any hydraulic system, of any type, automotive or industrial, and I have lost count of the number,provided these basic requirements to avoid ingress of air, had been met,so go round it again! and if all else fails, seperate front from back and bleed independanly, to at least discover where the fault lies, Morrag

I agree Morrag! To be honest,Ive not had experience with banjo fittings previously,only on fuel lines. I 've bled loads of car systems,no probs, this is a big learning curve! ;D As with all things'bike' Im having to learn new parameters! One reason I chose to do a car based trike was that I know cars,but the bike portion has been an eye opener  ,as I ve had to solve and learn some biker basics! :-[ Which I 'm making silly mistakes on! I like an engineering challenge,but this is really peeing me off!Today I'll re do each joint ,check the washer seats down etc. Apparently Dowty washers are the answer!
 So heres my system...
 front calipers to  specially made T on frame under headset = flexy s/s .The T has one bolt with bleed nipple.
 Front T to rear car type brass 3 way = flexy s/s . The bolt has bleed nipple.
  Mastercyl to same T=copper brake pipe as per car.male fittings
 Other leg of brass T to pressure adjuster  = copper as per car.
 Adjuster to brass T on axle =copper as per car .
 From T on axle to chassis=copper as per car.
 From chassis to Golf caliper =flexy s/s with caliper end fitting to caliper by a banjo.
 Ditto last 2 for other side.
 Only the banjos weep fluid under pressure

Rod, you have answered the question yourself, as I previously said, no leaks are acceptable under any pressure conditions, compatible to the system design ie. leverage values for footbrake pedal etc. If fluid can get out, then air will re tun into the system, its not a "biker" thing, its hydraulics, end off!so, recheck, your component parts seem adequate, so, copper washers on banjos and NO leaks. Then, if necessary, blank of the front brake part of the system and bleed back only, then, if OK, you know where the trouble lies,( and vice verse of course, if necessary), so give it another go using this route and I'm sure you'll get a result, Morrag.( ps. think of it rationally, a slave cylinder and master cyl. connected by a length of hyd. pipe, once full of fluid, how much air can it possibly contain unless your reintroducing that air at every stroke!)

 I called it a 'bike thing' as bikes have the banjo connections.
 Going to strip it again,and use new washers that I shall anneal myself.
 I think I mentioned in my previous post about dowty washers.They can be used ,but they must be the correct type of rubber,NOT NITRILE apparently!

Rod, Forget Dowty's, and you will find 'banjo' fittings are used extesively in all types of brake, or indeed any, hydraulic systems, so annealed copper is your route, and make sure your cylinder seals are not passing!  Morrag

Big Day tomorrow........
       Just got a few small bits to do ,then Im hoping to ride the beast! Not counting my chickens just yet tho'!

So the brakes are all sorted now Rod? Looking forward to seeing pics of the maiden flight.  :)

Brakes sorted,just need one more bleed.Gotta fit tank,check every nut and bolt is tight from front to rear,connect up battery,fit rear wheels,and pray it doesnt rain! Realistically,due to other commitments I may not actually drive it until Sunday.Feeling apprehensive,happy,etc all at same time!

I am a morning insomniac and cant sleep past half 3 no matter what time I go to bed.

My neighbours hate this site and all its contents
"Why?" I hear you ask
Well its because I sit here reading brilliant threads like this one and then get the urge to go into my workshop to work on various projects no matter what time of the morning it is.
so with that I'm off into the darkness to fire up my angle grinder and get some stuff done on me mates trike project, thats after I have stoked up my stove and warmed the place up.

Great build this one. big pat ont back from me

Thanks Haggis.Funnily enuf I cant sleep past about 4/5 am either! Im a bit late this morning but will def be out there by about 8.

WooHooo! The beast lives! Fired it up and drove it today!Wasnt sure if it felt OK ,so Pie came round and drove it. He says it is fine ,with no wheel wobble on take off.Its refusing to start at the moment ,which meant a huge push session for me and SWMBO to get it back through the fence and across the garden into the shed,but we made it! Sussed out its a coil connection shorting out,but cant seem to cure it.Maybe the bakelite is cracked causing tracking across.Was good to stand back and take in the shape after the confines of the shed.Will spend tamara and next weekend sorting all the bits out ,then I gotta build the mudguards etc. After I know everything fits ,I ll strip it for paint /rebuild.

Brilliant news!!! well done mate. See its worth all those troublesome hours eh. I remember my first, although that was a conversion not a complete build, hope to get that feeling back when mine is finally done. Well done again Rod  ;)

If you have a small crack or tracking line, clean with petrol on rag, wait till area dries, paint area with nail varnish, I find clear is more manly :D. Usually a good temporary repair.

Thanks TB.......
 Thats a good tip snafu ,thanx! Loads of that fancy nail stuff about in this house with SWMBO and daughter messin' with it!

weres the photos rod???
you must have taken a couple to mark this special moment in your iniciation into triking
well done mate

Wouldnt miss the photo opportunity! Cant get them on here until tamara.

Huge congratulations Rod. Really chuffed for you -& deeply, deeply jealous!
Can't wait to see the photos.  :)

nice to hear / read ;D

Another day of testing and fiddling. The handling seems very good ,according to test pilot Pie! All seems OK now,so its back in the shed to finish it off. Next job is the mudguards front and rear.Undecided whether I'll make em of steel or f/glass.Not sure whether they will be fancy shape or plain.No matter how many sketches I do ,they always turn out different!
 A BIG thank you to all concerened for the help and support in building this!
              Rod
 oops forgot....will load pics tomorrow at work!

ooh pics yes pls :)

I can't stand the suspension!

Actually,I thought the springs on the seat were adequate! ;D

nice one rod glad you got it sorted ;D

Nothing special and not already seen...just the fact its out in the open!!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1332[1].jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1335[1].jpg)

oooh I like that  ;D looks kinda cool with no fuel tank on the top tube  8) 8) 8) just when I think I don't want to use my Reliant engine for a trike you build this  ::) ::) ::) ::) got to focus, got to focus, nice one Rod  ;D ;D ;D

Was good being asked to be the test pilot, just a pity rain stopped play really!
First time riding a Reliant trike and a bit different to a bike engined one but it seems to handle well and is quite comfy. You should be well pleased Rod, a job well done!

Well done Rodney! Lookin' good. Does make a big difference just being to stand back & check out the lines of the thing from a distance.
How did the handlebars feel to ride with? I find I have to angle mine down slightly or my wrists hurt after a few minutes. Can't make out your gearchange in the pics -did you go for TerrorTubby's A frame support design? How's that working? The gear shift's a bit of a weak point on mine -because of the bends in the stick it doesn't move back & forth but kinda twists instead. Also has a lot of slack between 2nd & 3rd because of the stick length. Yours looks much tidier.
And I see you've gone with my swoopy exhaust design -but got yours finished before mine!  :(
Looks great Rod. You should be rightly proud. Looking forward to riding alongside it on the MonkeyWorld run in April! 

Thanx for the praise! Wont be going to monkey world on it ,even if I do get it finished by then! SWMBO and daughter want to go ,and seeing its my birthday outing etc!May stay down there for a couple of days ,no plan finalised yet!
 The handle bars are fine (at the moment!) I have got some better pics of the gearchange on my site.Can take sizes for ya if you want? The exhaust is ok ,but I fitted the standard reliant silencer for now ,just for the test runs!
 Pie s advice was invaluable. I had already rode it by the time he got there ,and he asked "how is it then?"  I replied "Ah thats where you come in mate ,I aint got a clue if its ok or not!" To my delight he said it felt fine ! WHEW!
     Im really looking forward to the next stage of the build,thats if I can get it back in the shed ! At the moment theres a HUGE lake covering the corner of the car park that I have to cross to get there!A soakaway isnt doing its job. Hey Ho!
             Rod

followed your build all the way rod,i think it looks really good you should be well proud,well done!

cracking result Rod bet yer well chuffed ;D

Thanx everyone ,all down to this site pulling me along sometimes!
Its back in the shed after having the "lake" pumped at 7am this morning!
 Today I started looking around for rear mudguards.I guessed that any trailer guards I found wouldnt be wide enuf to enable me to try them over the wheel for fit. What I did was measured the diam of the tyre on the rim,plus enuf for clearance. I then cut a piece of scrap 4mm ply to the diameter,so it gave me a temp to go to the shop with which was the radius I wanted a mudguard to be . After a few strange looks in the trailer shop ;D taking guards off the display and offering up to the template,I found a steel 'guard which fitted the bill,its too narrow ,but not a prob to widen etc. Great! another bit of time saved in building them! Alas they were out of stock so gotta wait a week or so for a fresh delivery. ! Bugger! I will do this for the front wheel as well,but obviously I will have to narrow that one,and also there will be a lot of cutting and shutting to get it to look right!

Very special...and now seen whole !!!!! Looks great  8)

Never thought of narrowing a trailer guard for the front. I'll eventually have to find something to cover the big fat tyre on the front of Taz's trike build, so that might be a handy option.
How did you mount your fuel tank Rod? Are they home made cradles it's sat in? Solid or boxed? Can't see any straps running around the tank -is it bolted in underneath? Just thinking about mounting the tank on my pick-up project & looking to steal a few ideas!

Here ya go..........a bit blurry ,but.....
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_1339[1].jpg)

Ahh. Thanks!

love the trike mate,just had a look at the tank,how much fuel can ya get in the tank,will the two tubes that it sits on,be strong enough,to hold it .coz its a hardtail there is no bounce so all the shock will go through the trike.

Someone else mentioned this! Never thought about it TBH! The tubes are very strongly welded ,but when I get round to the strip and rebuild I may brace the mounts.

deffo brace em mate ,what colour ya doin it/her.have ya given it/her a name yet.

Bracing/colour/name all undecided!

A sorta update..............Been making a few small brackets etc ,and running some wires thro the frame.Been held up a lot by the weather and busy at work(overtime) .Well I got to pay for it all somehow! ;D Cant see it being ready for this season TBH ! Got too many odds and ends to finish before final strip down and rebuild!I want to make sure I've welded all the little brackets and drilled all the holes I need BEFORE I paint it,so that I can assemble it like a kit! I guess mudguards are next.........

Work out how much your project will cost to build & how long it'll take
-then double the time & triple the cost & you won't be far off!

Still beavering away at the niggly bits and pieces,doesnt look as if Ive done bugger all really,so not exactly good for morale!.No different situation than building a car ,but cos parts are more exposed I'm tending to get them done right and looking good at this stage ,and not 'just get it working' and do it once roadworthy,cos I have a feeling that once this thing is roadworthy I wont be able to put it down!! ;D I know I will have missed a few bits.Made my final list this morning.  Got vin inspection tamara .Last major job is still the fr/rear mudguards /lighting attachments/luggage rack attachments.

Good luck for tomorrow then Rod.
So the inspector's coming to your place?

Thanks. Gotta take it to Chelmsford!

good luck rod, hope all goes well.

Just got back... No probs,nice bloke actually ,not the usual jobsworth! Took all details/ photographs,including the engine number. Apparently the VIN  number must be stamped on ,preferably the headstock OR if you want a nice shiny plate with it on ,thats ok,as long as the number is stamped on the chassis elsewhere.Gave him all my receipts,which they will look at and return in the next few days with my vin number.So-o-o-o-o-o..thats stage one over with for now! BTW ...from the vibes I got from him ,the receipts are a required thing.( But p'raps only at Chelmsford!)

Another step closer to the open road, you`ll be Triking by easter mate

Well done that man.
  spanners is next come on mate.

anuver fing........I asked the vin man whether it was correct that I wouldnt need a MOT for 3 yrs ,once I am registered.(Q plate) He said it all depends how the paperwork is processed for it .Hmmm,I wonder what thats all about then?
  T bone... Not looking at it being on the road until poss winter 2010 or spring 2011 unfortunately,due to lack of cash(ie some expensive hols to pay for this year!)

Shame your not a bit closer mate
Cardiff would be easy.

Here we go again...So I went out and bought some steel trailer guards. The radius will be perfect for what i have in mind,but they are 3" too narrow.Chopped one down the centre and offered up. Undecided how to let a piece in the centre to avoid welding warpage,so reluctant to cut the other one up for the other side yet. Think I'll cut 2 up wider than the centre line so that there is only one weld join down the centre for each guard.Now held up until I get a chance to go get another couple of the same guards...bugger. :)

Still too cold to mess around in the garage ,so havent done anything for a while!Getting bogged down with the mudguards.

Been gradually doing bits and pieces to the rear guards over the last few weeks,seem to have lost my Mojo at the moment. Finally made some headway with the guards today!

I lost my Mojo for a while. Finally found it in a cardboard box at the back of the shed.
Show us your progress then Rod.  ;)

Mojo now back and Im really in to this again!.....
  I want to fit a towbar to tow a very lightweight camping trailer...been pondering....
  I have the "standard" manky axle location brackets to attach the rear end. The clamp round the axle tube is welded to it. I've been thinking that I could weld a tube from the rear of one bracket,turn 90 degrees running parrallel to the axle tubes, across behind the dif to the other side ,90 degrees then weld to the other bracket . I think Andy did this when fitting a number plate holder ?But obviously theres a lot more strength reqd in a towbar.I am going to use 12mm dia bolts to attach the two halves of the axle clamps. Im wondering whether there will be enuf strength in the bolts (4 per side) to take the 'pull' of  a trailer?I will add gussets to the tube to axle bracket connection.Using this set up will mean that if I ever have to change the axle it will come out easily rather than attach the towbar tube to the frame ,which would mean the space is fixed .
      Any comments/ideas appreciated.
             
               Rod
 

Sounds fine to me mate, especially when you consider what is used to hold a standard 50mm towball on to most tow bars  ;).

Thanx TB . Im also worried about the leverage created by the  distance out from the axle bracket ..I guess about 10" or so,to allow the cross tube to clear the back of the diff? Im also thinking about fitting a removable tube or piece of flat bolted to  a bar under the seat ,bent downward to follow the contour of the top of the diff ,and welded of bolted to the towbar at the centre ,to form a sort of triangulated fixing for the hitch.
   Im going to try a vertical pin about 25mm diameter ,as I mentioned in a prev. post.Then use a good quality rose joint on the trailer. The trailer frame will be a very basic braced 'T' shape with a car top box mounted on it,and using small trailer wheels and indespension units..Just big enuf to hold a tent etc.
   
      Rod

I always fancied one of those car roof boxes as a long, low, sleek looking trike trailer, but because I don't do the C word, (camping), I haven't really got a use for one.
I reckon the bumper bar/tow hitch mount would be plenty strong enough for a small fibreglass trailer. You could always make up a second set of axle clamp halves & run without the bumper for normal use, then swap them over when you go camping.

Second set of clamps not a bad idea Andy,but ...
 a) I wouldnt be arsed to keep swapping over ;D
  b) The axle half of the clamp is welded to the axle now!I did make them bolt on originally,but decided to weld instead.
 
  Altho' the tow bar is taking up build time,I decided to fit it at this stage ,cos its easier while the frame is in a 'raw' state.
  Well guys,thanx for the words of wisdom,I now feel confident to sort it.Im off to look for a decent quality rose joint.........
             Rod

Got the whole trike now stripped down to the bare frame ,all the bits boxed and labelled. Set up a bench for the engine tart up .Started making up a spit to mount the chassis on to allow easy access to all the areas for welding/filling/paint.Should make it easier to manouver,so I think its worth the time cobbling something together.I estimate about a month to prep and maybe paint the frame,will work on the engine in between as well.Engine is having all stainless bolts/nuts,some new gaskets,a s/steel rocker cover and s/s cover for the sump.Plus repaint etc.

You're making new rocker cover & sump? I'd be interested to see them Rod. Got any piccies of your frame jig?
I've got a couple of weeks off work next month & thinking I might use the time to get stuck into my own trike, which is languishing in a barn, & finally get it finished -so I need some inspiration from my fellow builders.

im with Manky on that one, would be intrested to see both the frame jig and s/s rocker cover and sump r u making theese yourself or r u buying them

Will get pics,but at the moment this computer seems to be so slow that its steam powered ! Cant load them until tamara.
  Its not a frame JIG ,its a spit to rotate the frame . I built it of whatever I had lying around in the garden ,so dont expect an engineering masterpiece! Finishing it today ,hope it works! Its only gotta last for one application anyway!

(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/trike%20003.jpg)

(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/trike%20002.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/trike%20001.jpg)
 Top 2 pics are the way I connected it to the scaff pole.
 Bottom pic shows the stand for one end of the spit.
 The other end utilises a metal dustbin ,which has a tripod bolted to the top,with a piece of 2x2 angle sitting as a 'v' which the pole rotates on!
 As I said ,all heath robinson ,from what I had laying around,but it works! I use a  lump of ally angle as a prop under the chassis to the floor to hold it at various angles as I work on it. I proved its stability when the prop slipped,and as I previously had made an escape plan ,I dived for the garage door ! It never tipped over !

All the years I've been lugging frames around, turning them over & over on the floor, having to crawl about on my knees to weld everything up, why has that never occured to me?! Lift it up to a sensible working height & rotate it. Genius!

I think a build table is a good idea ,to work off the ground,and also to use the table as reference point for getting things true,but I like to be able to look at the trike from the angle it would normally be viewed at when on the ground,to get an idea of what looks right.(not that Im a good judge of trike looks,having never built one before ;D)
  Before I stripped the trike down and put it on the 'spit' I made a note of where any last brackets etc had to go .Its certainly a lot easier to work at waist height,and allows you to have a good view of any imperfections etc  that could affect the overall finish ,but having said that,even after a couple of days work prepping I'm finding you can go a bit too far with it due to every angle and nook and cranny being visible!

Progress at last! Frame now primered and guide coated!
   Now starting to fettle the rear mudguard brackets. Im having to fill the dodgy welds I did when I made them,which is taking ages and looks crap,so have decided to re make parts of them and get the guy who welded the frame  to weld them nicely,then I wont have to fill them.
  May do the same with the h/bars I built.

Good news. I was wondering how it was getting on.  :)

Well,since my last burst of energy on this ,I aint done anything for the last 2 weeks,not even been in the garage!Been off work ill, got an op on Wednesday,so that'll scupper my chances of getting it on the road for next spring! Hey Ho!
       Rod

WOOHOO!! Im back at last!.........Looks like Ive got a lot of threads to catch up on! First day out in the garage today for a long time due to illness and operation! been re making my mudguard brackets....pics soon.
     Rod

Welcome back Rod. Good to see you in good health again mate.  ;)

after a few tries ,I cant seem to put the pics up(summat wrong with the URL possibly) So anyone interested have a look at my website for pics.....

Maybe they are too big?  There's a thread HERE (http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4469.0) about how to post pics.

Thanx BG ...Have read that . Never had probs before with pics. I remember one of the I.T. geeks at work  telling me a while back that it depends how the camera records it or somesuch! Hey ho ! Theyre on my site anyway!
 Regards
      Rod

At last some headway! Just received my order of a complete set of s/s nuts and bolts for the engine. Also received all the gakets for the engine. Started removing ancillaries and cleaning them and painting/ polishing ,will refit them with the new gaskets . Have been painting individual items like the prop,h/brake mechanism and other brackets.Long way to go yet!

Getting there, bit by bit, though matey

Another long day out in the workshop..,,heres a few pics of progress so far.....
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2300.jpg)
This bracket is for the headlamps as well as the locking mechanism .(padlock thro' the two 'eyes')
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2304.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2292.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2297.jpg)

Hang on -when did it become blue?
I like the drilled headstock gusset. Looking rather spiffing there Rodney.

screwdrivers might need to be upgraded on the front engine mounts,

Location ,location ,location! ;D

After spending about 4 hours yesterday modifying my rocker cover,I dont like the look of it and have now decided to stick with the original style! The workmanship is ok,but it looks too bulky to me.Hence my advert in the wanted section!

I'm curious -how did you mod it?

I had a mate make a cover for it in stainless that covered the 4 sides and sat on the lip that holds the gasket,then made a flat top in 3mm Aly ,which was going to be bolted on to the sides all round the edge of the top...hard to explain really. I then built a new filler neck with screw on cap, filled up the old hole ,and repositioned the new neck to one corner. It came out reasonable,but it was slightly more difficult to fit as it was a bit taller than the original one,and Im tight for space under the top tube.It made the engine look "top heavy" if you get my drift,and personally I didnt like it ,but you live and learn............! ;D
       Rod

Sounds like a hell of a lot of work. Any pics?

Will get some pics tonight.
  Rod

Have taken pics,but having probs with transferring them from camera to comp.
Today,I felt like doing something basic to the trike,as Im getting bored with all the tech stuff on it.So,I dont like the look of the rear lights,after wiring them up ,I decided to rip them off ::) Used amse lights but mounted them more sturdy on plates with a lip round them.I also machined up some aly covers for the h/bar switch area. Took me 5 hours in total to make and get them to fit,look so simple ,but so difficult! Aint it always the way! pics later tonight or tomorrow I promise! Off out now for a family chinese meal that the offspring are clubbing together and  are supposedly paying for ! Hmmmm..we'll see!  ::)

Pics........
 so I made these frame extensions to mount some lights..
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20009.jpg)
 Didnt like the look of how the lights fitted...
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20008.jpg)
 Made some plates with edges...
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20007.jpg)
 Mounted them and painted them...
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20011.jpg)
 And fitted the lights to the plates...
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20020.jpg)
 I made some tapered aly 'tubes' to fit over the bars butting up to the switches ,just cos I could really!........
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20017.jpg)
 I then made a pod to fit the digi speedo and warning lights in to .........
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20018.jpg)
                 
       

hi,,rod, 
what paint are you using on youre frame ???

Some nice touches there Rod, I like the triple mount for the handlebars.

I coat of red oxide primer(Halfrauds stuff) then 2 coats of Rustoleum spray,allowing 7 days drying time for first coat,rub down gently with 600 w&d,then final coat.And its ..er...well..its...BLUE!!! ;D

Thanks TB...yeah I liked the look,but getting all the wires down the centre tube was a real pig!

Out in the sun at last!......
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20002.jpg)
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20001.jpg)
 Heres the  alt cover...
 (http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20004.jpg)
 And here it is after polishing....sides are very shiny ,but end was too pitted to get looking as good ! Big Thanx to Cabman for showing me the basics of polishing!..
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/camera%20stuff%20006.jpg)
  

Its coming together very nicely rod,keep up the good work mate  ;) great to see it out in the open

Hi Rod. Not picking fault at all, but I see you've got your brake calipers facing forward of the axle.
Not sure who made the mounting plates, but they usually have a flat on one edge which lines up with a flat on the axle tube flange. That would normally site the calipers at 45 degrees to the rear. Have you swapped the axle tubes from one side to the other?
They'll work just as well, I'm just curious that's all.
Nice work by the way! Some lovely touches in there.  :)  

Andy ,Cant quite remember why they ended up there,but it was after I repositioned the calipers to get the bleed nipples at their highest point.I dont recall seeing a flat on one side of the plates and I havent changed the axle tubes ! I had enuf grief getting the hubs off the half shafts,so I wouldnt touch the tubes!! ;D
     
      Rod

rod how many forward gears have you got ?

 ;D

just checkin  ;) ;)

just flip the plates if need be rod  ;)

So today i decided to get the tank finished,or at least the bits made for it . I found a piece of pipe and end cap,and also an old aly pulley....
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2582.jpg)
 I squared off the ends of the pipe after cutting it down,and made a aly inset for the top,this is for my home brewed filler cap...
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2583.jpg)


 
Afew random shots.........
 Ive since cut down the filler neck height!
 
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2585.jpg)
 I also made some inserts from aly for the ends of the mudguard bracket tubes.....
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2584.jpg)
 
 (http://[http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2572.jpg/img] [img]http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2570.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2573.jpg)
          
 [img][/  

I do like that Rod.

Thanks Andy.Gotta say that if I hadnt found this site,and used the "Manky" style of frame(with a few tweaks!) and associated ideas ,plus took advice from all the helpful members on here,I wouldnt have even contemplated starting,so I bow to you sir! ;D
  ('twas tbone's excellent write up of his build that inspired me to have a go.)

Oh I see, it's our fault is it?!
Young Tim's a very good techy explainist in't he.

Shhhhh! Thats what I tell SWMBO! "It's all their fault dear"!

OI you two! Don`t get dragging me into it  ;D
I only post here because the "oily men in their sheds" website won`t have me!  ;D ;D ;D ::)

i have never worked out what ,,oily men,, actually do in there sheds ,,,, :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

"Thats another fine mess you;ve got him into  ' Oily '  ........  " 

I didnt have a coat when I came in  ......  so I'l just find my hat and go  .......

  ..  Hagar  ..   ;Dl   

Anyone seen my balaclava  !!!!!!!!!!!

  ..  Hagar  ..   ;D

oo`er missus ;D ;D ;D ;D

if you look on ebay   there,s an ,,oily man,,, stood behind a ,,,fire pump,,,, in a shed        the ,,,fire pump,,,, is for sale   NOT the ,,,oily man,,,                   well not unless the price is right  ;) ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Would it be the shed that's for sale then?, I like sheds me,wonder what sort of shed it is then..........................I feel one of my headaches coming on again,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

nope not the shed that goe,s with the house and yard thats for sale (google ,bridgefords estate agents whaley bridge derbyshire/cheshire)

the fire pump(beresford stork  under stationary engine,s on ebay) is for sale along with 99% of all garage and shed/workshop contents, :)

Some more progress pics...
 Sketch of my brake compensator
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2600.jpg)
and some pics of the same insitu,sorry about quality......
(http://)
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2593.jpg)
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2591.jpg)
 Heres the throttle cable gizmo I built to change the cable from vertical entry to carb to horizontal........
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2590_1.jpg)
 And the prototype bracket to hold the vapor speedo sensor....
(http://rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2598.jpg)

 

Some more nice work there mate. These small bits and pieces make all the difference, and take forever to make.......and does anyone take any notice of them?  ::)

I do! Always on the lookout for ideas to pinch! Very nice Rod.

I feel honoured that you two guys like the work! 8) Im a novice at trikes! Pinch whatever you like Andy,but not swmbo's bum!
        Rod

your brake compensator thingy is it like my one? this is a mgf handbrake off ebay for a quid..:)

Similar mate

that`s a nicely polished carb body you`ve got there Rod  ;D ;D ;D ;D

The carbs looks dynamite.. :)

Yeah,had some amateur come and show me how to polish stuff!! ;D ;D ;D

 ;D ;D ;D ;D

So today I was determined to get the trike driving.Checked all bolts/fittings etc,fitted rad hoses,topped up with water,plumbed in fuel tank. Checked for spark at points etc. Now the test......bloody hell it started and ran first press of the start button! Then noticed water dripping from the vent hole on the underside of the water pump! Stripped it all down, took off pump..looks like a new pump is in order as Ive tried fixing these in the past,but they always leak again! Oh well.there goes another weekend!
        Rod

But it runs Rod! That's a huge leap forward. Congratulations!  ;D

seconded  ;D ;D ;D ;D

'tis true guys,at least I havent got to mess about getting it to run ! Found lots of odd jobs to do on it that will keep me busy until next week anyway!
 One prob I have got that I've never come across before is that the brake light switch,which is the plumbed in type, doesnt operate the brake lights until the pedal is fully depressed. Im wondering if there is some air in the system that needs bleeding out.Ive never noticed this before when building cars,mainly cos you cant see the lights coming on as you press the pedal on a car!
   Rod

ha! spoke too soon! Fitted my new water pump this morning,so thought Id fire up the beast. ran for all of 20 secs,then stopped! leak on bottom of float bowl where the thin pipe goes in. The rubber collet has disintegrated. Looks like I'll have to order one from Burlen or whoever. So.....Ive now got to find out why it wont start again after running for those sweet 20 secs! Ive checked the plugs after cranking it over ,and theyre dry,so Im guessing its fuel related. Gotta go and have a read about SU carbs and how they come apart /adjust etc.Not looking forward to this !I hate carburrettors!
           Rod

Ah! Now I understand the wonders of the SU Carb! Found a great You Tube vid. A guy draws a diagram and makes it look simple!

Welcome to the wonderful world of Reliant!

IT runs! It drives! Its AWESOME! Wahoooooo!!!!!! Just been driving it. A few odds and sods still to do,but seems ok.
      Rod

well done rod  ;) not to long before you will be on the road enjoying the well deserved fruits of your hard labour  :)

Thanks Zak. Been blatting it a bit more this afternoon. Cant get out of 2nd gear due to the constraints of the test area.TBH was lucky to get it into second,as lots of bends to encounter!Have got it starting" on the button" now.One thing that has come up is that a passenger backrest will be required,so machined up some bits for that this afternoon. Going to keep going round it this week doing all the little bits,and still waiting for the rear mudguards to return after having bodywork done on them,as they were a bit distorted after all the stretching/widening etc.
     Rod

Cool! Let's see some piccies then!

Patience glass hopper,patience! ;D

 ;D ;D ;D ;D

Been busy doing a whole load of little jobs on the beast.Swapped over the silencer to an original new Reliant one I had, just to be sure of test. Will swap it back later.Still waiting for the mudguards to come back from the bodyshop,then after fitting I will book the msva test.
  Ive now decided that I will take the trike to MSVA in a hired Transit.I measured a Transit this morning,and it looks like it will fit. I'm going to knock up a lift,which will allow me to get the trike on to an angled ramp ,then lift the rear of the platform with a trolley jack,which will bring the platform parrallel to the ground,and in line with the Transit floor.I can then unbolt the lift pieces and put them in the van .I tried putting the trike on a trailer ,but it bottoms out on the sump as it goes over the apex where the ramps meet the bed.It will only take me a few hours to make up the platform from odd lengths of tube and box section I have around,and will cost me less to transport the trike than paying a guy to trailer it there for me,especially if it fails and I have to go back to get it re tested.
 

Dodge had the bottoming out thing when we took his trike to Copdock show. The trailer he had was fitted with a jockey wheel so he lifted it right up so there was a much smaller angle and drove the trike on. Dont know if thats something you could do if it is easier than the setup you have?

Woohoo! Mudguards have finally arrived from the body shop guy!  8) I'll be out there early tamara finishing them off and painting them.

Piccies?!

some how missed this rod great build well done

Hi Rod
Been looking at your build,nice work.I read a while back on your thread that you got stainless nuts and bolts for your engine can you tell me what all the sizes are and where you got them from as that is what i wont to do, also do these include the diff casing

Merv, check this thread at the top of the Trike Tech section:

http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9424.0

Thank you Mr Manky

Yes they do include the diff ones. I didnt get my sizes from this site,but its a good guide.Some suppliers dont sell polished ones,so make sure they are polished,or youve got the polishing gear. I used some metric bolts on other areas of the trike. these werent polished,so I hit them with the buffing wheel.
 
 LOL Clive! Yes youre right,but TBH it doesnt look much different to the almost complete pics Ive got on here already,thats why I havent done any!  :)

So apart from the now long running saga of the rear guards,I think Im ready for the MSVA.Ive got the forms and will ring the central number to find out which of my two chosen centres does w/end tests (apparently some do on a Saturday,altho the forms I have says Sats,Suns,and b/hols) Ive found a guy with a trailer ,so i'll ring him tamara to get a price and see when he's available.Then its sort the guards in the next 2 weeks, get it weighed and stamped on the chassis plate and also get an mot before the MSVA . Meanwhile, while Im treading water so to speak, I'm going to finish the pillion backrest and start on a removable rear rack.

You dont have to stamp the weight for the msva Rod

BD6......So do you have to have the weight on paper,or not at all?

its just a certificate rod, its more for dvla to work out the taxastion class

if i remember it does ask for the weight on the form but you dont have to stamp it on your frame
i think its to work out your brake efficiency dont know why you have to bother though as when i was at the vosa station for the msva the bloke weighed it again  :)

its no longer required to calibrate the machine for brake testing at mot

dont worry about waiting for muddies, they arent needed for MSVA :)

obviously if youve mounted your lights on them, then youm ight need them, but just mount them on the axle etc and get it done :)

Thanks for all the comments guys! :-* Doesnt look like the trailer is going to surface,so I ve had another thought. Hiring a tail lift Transit Luton! Should be able to get the rearend on it ,and get my 2 lads to take the weight of the front as the tail lift moves.Im going to sort out cost and lifting swl's tamara.
   After seeing a pic of Zakboys trailer on his build thread,I thought this would be an option. Making it is no problem,but the bits ,eg suspension etc will cost around £200.........so another cost prohibitive.

your wecome to borrow mine rod but im a fair way from you

you anywhere near wakefield RODeo

thanks guys,both too far ! Im in Essex.Just spoke to my 2 lads they reckon its do able as I described.

Have moved them like that before Rod. Not too bad to do as long as you have a couple of strong backs to lift and hold the front while the tail lift goes up. Best of luck with it.  ;D ;D ;D ;D

We showed a dozen trikes down at the Bath & West bike show in Somerset a few years ago. I drove a tail lift van with a couple in the back & lifted them just like that. Easy.

 After seeing a pic of Zakboys trailer on his build thread,I thought this would be an option. Making it is no problem,but the bits ,eg suspension etc will cost around £200.........so another cost prohibitive.
[/quote]Why don't you hire a Small plant trailer got to be cheaper than hiring a van with a tail lift  ???

ride it to the MSVA, and request a home visit for the DVLA inspection

Once your trike has passed the MSVA test you should be given a Minister’s Approval Certificate (MAC)or its equivalent  With a MAC you will be able to apply to DVLA to get your vehicle licensed and registered.you don't need to take it for a dvla inspection as well

hasn't it got to have an mot.and be insured before DVLA issues a v5c and tax  ???

yes it will have to be moted and insured, and the mac will be used to apply to dvla for regerstation and tax,

Is it ok to get it mot'd BEFORE the msva?

Im no expert at all on this subject but on monday i called into the mot station and he asked if i had the msva certificate and the weigh slip so he can mot it?  :)

I'm not sure hear but in general isn't its it something to do with what plate its issued with an age related  or q plate a q plate would not need an mot for three years ....i believe

If you have been through the MSVA then registered the trike as a new vehicle, you do not need an mot for 3 years.

The reason I asked is because Im not entirely sure what the MSVA checks.For instance,do they check headlamp aim and stuff like that?

Hired a Transit Luton with tail lift today. Took it to weighbridge with Trike inside,had it weighed. Took it home ,unloaded trike,then back to weigh empty van. Difference came out dead on 300 kgs. I was surprised,as I guessed around 400 kgs. Forgot to put the mudguards and brackets in the van ,so guessing another 12kgs for these. At least I know the taillift idea is now feasible,and I have the weight cert to send with the applicaton form to VOSA now!

Knocked up this air filter from some plate I had laying around
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2680.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2682.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2683.jpg)
Still not happy with the hose clips.Also I made a guard round the alt fan.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2690.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2691.jpg)
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2686.jpg)

I sent a copy as you dont get it back or at least i did not  :)

I got 2 copies from the weighbridge,sent one of them ,and made copies of everything else!

Looking very tidy Rod. Love the colour. How did you form the lip around the air filter cover?

Thanks Andy. The two plates are 6 mm aly rough cut with a jigsaw. I drilled a hole in the centre for a 10mm bolt . Bolted them together then spun them in the lathe to make a 'pair' . Then I ran a groove about 4 mm deep very close to the edge in each one . I used the mesh from an old pancake filter and cut it down so that it exactly fits in width between the 2 plates, in the grooves. The plates are spaced apart with a top hat section held onto the 'base' plate by the bolts that hold the base to the carb.Didnt think the mesh was fine enough,so used a piece of very fine mesh (the stuff you can buy at builders merchants that they use in roof soffitt vents to keep out bugs etc) to back the larger mesh.

Hi how do your mudguards attach to the frame? That my next job :)

Hi SB. I extended upward the axle clamp (the half that is attached to the frame) You can see it in the second guard pic.

I C... Not quite how I'm gonna do it but may nick that idea :) are your mudguards steel ? I just bought these
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=110681605574&kw=110681605574

Steve,
         What size tyres are you wrapping them around?
Cheers :)

I got 15" wolfrace slot mags with 195 tyres on

I didnt want the complete wraparound look,hence why I chopped up mine.I used one trailer guard to make both of mine.As you can see,the rear of mine stop exposing the tyre when looking straight down from the top. I realised this at the outset,and decided to make up some stainless 'mudflaps' mounted on brackets protruding from the rear of the guards following the wheel closely, to stop a wall of water off each tyre!
 
  UPDATE on my test application..I phoned them back with the numbers they wanted ..5500 rpm,and they are going to contact me with a firm date tamara.I cant have my preffered (sp?) date so I may have to move one of my days holiday from work to accomodate .Looks like being December 21st.I didnt realise it was a 3 hour test! Ive also got to take a crash helmet. Looks like I'll have to buy one sooner than I thought!

To be honest they told me 3 hours as well it was nearer to an hour and a half. I think they just allow for that long
No idea what the crash helmet is for though  ??? well not for the test anyway as for the figures you were after i just robbed it out the haynes manual  :)

I couldnt find it in the manual! They told me to bring the crash helmet as I may have to ride it in the yard .

I had to ride it to the shed from the waiting area but he never asked me to wear a helmet (just as well i never took one)  :)

Well Ive gotta get one sooner or later,so will try to find time to go to a large bike shop nearby,that apparently has a wide choice.

and you need a helmet for?  ;)
i was doin 70 down the m3  ;) ;)  yesterday bumbling past ppl everyone was staring for some reason maybe my flies were undone lol

-you don't legally need a crash helmet on a trike.

but it doesnt stop the cops doing a double take as you overtake them :P

even the old bill know you don`t need one on a trike. Although a bit of protection from the rain does come in handy sometimes.


How about one like this?????  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Apparently when I have to move it in their yard,I need a helmet.Thats waht they told me anyway.

Fair enough. If it makes them happy & helps you pass the test, who cares!

So ,Im counting the days to the test now(next Weds!) My main problem has been finding somebody to come along to Norwich test centre with me,to help unload/load the thing ! My 2 sons are both busy at work.I asked about 10 people and everyone was busy,phoned the centre and asked if anyone there could help,but no joy.I think at last I may have found a lad to help. Just praying he turns up on time on the day! Its not going to be cheap though! Im not too fussed if it fails cos then at least I have a list to work to,but its obviously going to cost another wad of money to have to go back up there for a retest!We'll see!

Fingers crossed for you mate.  ;)

Good luck with the test Rod  :)

All the best with the test Rod  :)

Testing in the car park today...it was COLD out there! Happy I managed a short run,went out again ,its now snowing,so back in the garage!
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2708.jpg)
 
 A couple of small puffs of blue smoke from the oil filler after a few circuits of the car park,but Im putting that down to the engine been standing for a while(and the cooling fan wasnt switched on!)Hoping it will de- gunk a bit after a bit of running.

Hi Rod trike looks great just noticed on your pic that your master cylinder is covered with some straps. can you still get the lid off the master cylinder without removing them?  :)

No! I read in the MSVA manual that the m/cyl must be (easily) accessed,so I thought that 4 x 6mm bolts on the cover would be ok? Or does the top have to be completely clear?

If you need to remove anything to gain access to the master cylinder then the tool required must be in the tool kit on the trike and not in your pocket hth  :)

This is copied from 100% biker forum they have a bloke on there that works for vosa and i asked the question what does easily checked mean


Hi Dan,

We had to come up with a definition of easily checked in the early days because the EU didn't bother to specify what they meant (no surprise there).

It's the note just below 12, if you can take the lid off by hand that's fine, if it has a viewing window or is translucent so that you can see the level that's fine too.

If the reservoir is solid and the lid needs tools to remove it then the tool required must be part of the vehicle equipment. So the allen key or screwdriver or whatever needs to be on the trike and not in your pocket.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Chris

Looking realy good Rod. 8)
Good luck with the test.

it is looking good all that hard work has paid off

Thanks everyone for the sentiments.....
Ive now altered the m/cyl cover. Looks c**p,but I will getaway with it, then change it after the MSVA.Oh ,and in my haste to get it sorted I managed to break a drill bit as I drilled it,which then went into my hand! Hey Ho!

Ouch

did that with a fan on a rover  v8 water pump  got the scar though my left hand for proof  lol, ,,,,25/30yrs later ,,

Many years ago i worked for a small building firm,I used to maintain they're transit V4,
The exhaust manifold studs had snapped,So i removed the manifold and got myself an electric drill to drill out the remains of the stud,realizing i had nothing to clamp the manifold in i decided to hold it between my knees, can anyone guess what happend next. :o




Yep you guest it the drill bit went strait into my leg full speed :'( :'( :'(

I can only say i never did that again.

ouch

Frustration! After working for the last 2 hours rushing round it trying to finish bits off,Ive now got the trike sitting outside the garage in the dark waiting to see if the van hire place has had the van returned that I am to use tomorrow.Doesnt look like Ill be loading it up tonight ready for the morning at this rate,so I'll just have to put it back in the garage and pick the van up and load it on tomorrow! urghhhhhhhhh!

Good luck and hope it goes well tomorrow

fingers crossed for you   but i,m shure all will go well

nice looking trike mate fingers crossed for ya

It`ll fly through Rod, no problem  ;)

all the best for tomorrow rod what time is the test?  :) :)

12.30

Good luck Rod :)

keep us all posted fella.

Good luck today, monkey digits crossed  :)

????????????????
well
im on tenter hooks

It passed! ;D Nothing border line,all within limits. 8)S-o-o-o stressfull!

nice one  :)

great news mate

whats the next step fella, [after a celabratory beer that is]

There are obviously variations in the way each test centre interperets the Manual!
 Someone may benefit from these oddities which I interpereted differently...
 The master cyl cover didnt have to be removable,as the fluid could be seen through the nylon plasticy screw on top!
  I was led to believe that the battery cut off switch was ok for disablement..lucky I had built in a lock for the steering ,cos it has to be a  mechanical disablement.
 The twin h/lamps side by side i fitted ,are ok if they are one main beam,and the other dip BUT if each one is dip and main they have to be spaced much wider apart. He went to the office and checked the legislation on this.
 The number plate.......... must have the mounting bracket in place ready to fit it. Although the manual says summat like "must have a space for it"
 
 

next step according to my DVLA letter,(although BD6 may have different info) is to insure the thing on the VIN number,(my ins co will do this,but only for 30 days,then it has to have the reg in place),fill in a dvla form,then show Insurance cert and the MSVA cert to the DVLA with £55 reg fee,plus the fee for 12 or 6 months tax.They then issue the Reg number ,job done! (I hope it is as easy as what the dvla letter says!)My letter doesnt mention an mot(I think it was actually crossed out on the list of things to present to them)I am going to re check this with them.

even though theres a manual and its supposed to be black and white, Im surprised that the exposted belts on the engine went through ok

but from experience the disablement is allowed to be either electronic or mechanical, unless the manual been changed very recent? but hey who cares now :)


The device may be mechanical or electrical, or an electronic immobiliser or a combination of these in addition to any switch normally used to start the engine.

either way congrats on the pass, its not hard and now your rewarded with a trike thats properly registered, so you can spread the word and put a few "pub experts" in their right places

merry christmas

yup but they also usually want to see the vehicle as well, and you cant ride it to the DVLA inspection

stupid really as all the numbers have been verified by the MSVA tester

They didnt say anything about a re inspection(already done one for the VIN number)

The belts are within the frame. I did fit a guard for the alternator cooling fins behind the pulley.

I was told that they would only want to see it in extreme circumstances but they would not tell me what they were

ah sorry I wasnt aware you had been already and had the DVLA inspection

then yes from memory its the v55/5 is it? the MAC and insurance on the VIN number and some cash

I have done mine slightly different in the past but offices differ. I get VIN numbers issued by post while Im building, then I get the MSVA, then go round the corner and get DVLA bit sorted, usually book or at least write/call and make sure they got someone there on the same day.

plenty of tinker time ready for next summer, you will be out on no matter what the weather, just because you can! :)

well done Rod  :)

According to my letter ,its a V842 form,but I suppose there may be others to fill in as well
 Im going to re do the handlebars a bit wider. I may have to pull the engine out as well,so Im looking to get it sorted by about April.

skiprat is right about the form V55/5

nice xmas present gratz  :)

Well done mate  ;D

Congratulations Rod.  Thats a great result, you should defs drink lots of beer celebrate the acheivement :)

Thanks everybody for your sentiments,much appreciated! BUT .....theres no way I would have stayed the course and persevered without this here forum and its huge amount of info and encouragement. Thanks to everyone ,including Andy for keeping this site going. :-*

Congratulations Rod.  ;D
A great achievement. Creating a living, breathing machine from a pile of scrap metal & being able to ride it completely legally on Her Majesty's highways is something to be proud of.
We all contribute to the site & I like to think we all learn from it too. The most common feedback I get from readers is that they didn't think they'd ever be able to build something themselves until they began following the build threads here. That's why we try to encourage you all to post a diary of the ups -& downs -of your projects. You're helping to inspire the next builder.

completely agree, having a productive time just lately and its all down to guys on here. [many thanks to tbone for keeping me going on the wiring at the mo]. think i would have given up a few times without the guidence of guys on here.  know a few lads that have started and lost interest.

Totally agree!

well done rod!

No pain no gain,It's all pleasure now rod well done. ;)

congrats rod been following your build whilst doing mine, im at the paint and wiring stage now and was wondering how i get a vin number, and who stamps this on the headstock can i do it myself??

Thanks.
This is how I sorted the vin...Applied to dvla for a vin number,filled in forms,they asked to inspect the trike. Took it to local office(Chelmsford) they did a quick look over(didnt have to take it off the trailer). They asked for all receipts for parts,which I gave them . A few days later they sent the number and my receipts etc back. I then bought a set of cheap number stamps from Screwfix. Stamped the number on. They sent me a form to get filled in by a local garage,which verifies that the number is there and correct.I actually got the garage form filled in after I had it msva'd. After a few phone calls yesterday,dvla insisted I got the form filled in ,even though VOSA (msva)had checked and verified it was correct!
  Hope this helps mate.
          Rod

what do you lot think about my idea? C**p or OK?......feel free to comment or flame me!
 Im not using a bike tank,therefore I need to fill the space a tank would take up,as it seems bare to me. Im thinking I'll be at a loss for storage space,cos I like to carry all sorts of junk....so I've made this box with front hinged lid which could be for tools etc.. The aly will be painted blue. Ive sanded the top to a convex shape to sort of match the curve of the seat upholstery tops. I'll upholster the lid in same fabric as the seats are done in,maybe pad it a bit.The pics appear to make it stick out like a sore thumb,but in reality it will blend in better when painted etc.I may 'let in' atemp gauge into the lid at an angle,or maybe mount it in a sort of reversed scoop ,on the side of the box. Maybe even one each side.So here my dear friends, for your delectation and delight(or flaming! ;D) are the pics..........
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2717.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2716.jpg)
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2715.jpg)

That looks like one hell of a nice trike,
I like what looks like a pistol grip on the spine of the frame. 8)

But what do you think of the box? ;D
Heres another idea I had to lengthen the box and curve it. Made the template quick ,as didnt want to get caught out there by the missus on Xmas day ::)so you'll have to use your imagination and squint at it a bit! The lid will follow the curve of the top and fill in the whole top area,but with only the front 3/4 of it opening
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2719.jpg)

Yeah.....I squinted and I kinda of got the idea.Maybe if the top part nearer the headstock was flared out,more tank shaped...If you know what I mean. :D :D :D

Beauty's in the eye of the beholder as they say & the whole point of customising is to build what you like, regardless of anyone else's opinion.
My own, very humble opinion- I prefer it without the box, but then, that might be cos it looks more like my old trike that way!
I'm intrigued by the wooden axe handle/pistol grip. Is that a paint effect, a 2 piece capping around the frame tube, or something else? I'd be tempted to create a fake sawn off shotgun along the spine of the frame!

It looks like you have added about 6" with that angle,
Maybe ad 3"and taper the height at the back,And as hornet said a bit wider at the front.

But that's just the way i see it.
Let's see what everone else Say's

ok guys thanks for input,I'll sit and ponder.......
 You got it in one Andy!..........I did build a shot gun style gun on there.At a glance it looks so real we thought it was a bit dodgy so removed it!Didnt want to get stopped for firearms offence! Also it looks a bit gimmicky . Here it is roughly fitted,just resting on there..
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2721.jpg)
 The 'wood' is a paint effect (easy to do) I built up the frame thickness with p40 and filler!

Great minds think alike eh!
Yeah, I know what you mean about the gimmickiness -it's easy to make that kind of thing a bit tacky -but I quite like that cos it follows the lines of the frame so well. Very creative of you! I'm not a big fan of skulls & swords & stuff all over bikes, but maybe if it were tied into an overall theme for the trike, rather than one random piece on an otherwise simple design, it'd be more self explanatory. For example, if the trike were named something like "Highway Man" & had some tasteful muralling, maybe on the fuel tank, or some gold coins cut from steel & welded to various places on the frame, that kind of thing. Yeah, I know Dick Turpin didn't use a sawn off, but you get the idea, (a flintlock pistol would work though).
I guess sawn off shotguns would imply bank jobs or hit men, that kind of thing? Black & white photo style mural of the Kray Twins maybe?
Themed & named vehicles are all a bit 1970s, but are still very common in the custom scooter world & there's a definite trend in hotrodding circles at the moment for reviving old show & race cars from that era. Interesting.  :)

Er,well,actually,I did have that sort of thing in mind,but I wont divulge,cos I know youre already reading my mind Andy! ;D Since going down the storage box idea,I like that more as its practical,and I havent any other storage on the trike.

I has the power!
Storage? That's where the Highway Man's wooden chest comes in. Or an antique leather pouch slung from the frame.  ;D

hunting theme sounds good too.

Ive now decided to carry on with the box idea cos I know I will need storage space. Amazing how much time it has absorbed developing that bl**dy box!

My next job on the agenda was going to be to get the previously made wiring diagrams copied and laminated....BUT...I cant find the b***dy things anywhere!  :(We have searched to no avail in the house,garage and shed..nothing! So here we go with another load of wasted time, re doing them as best I can.Im almost going cross eyed looking at the wiring! ;D . Only a couple more fuses to check to determine what they do, then draw a few basic diagrams,but nothing near the full diagrams I drew of every circuit as I went through wiring it originally.Must remember to pack spare fuses,a test lamp,and cable bits and bobs in my box!

Frazzled my brain with the wiring diagrams,so decided to do a bit more to the box..
This is how I left it yesterday with strips of wood stuck on a aly" base plate" that is fitted to the original lid to extend it. Tried cutting slots across the plywood,but it wouldnt bend right,so made it up in strips planed to fit tight together.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2723.jpg)
Today,after the glue dried I cut off the edges and sanded it to convex shape. Amazingly,this took all of about 10 mins to sand!
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2727.jpg)
Still lots to do to it,(a little filler,sanding and sealing here and there)but the basic thing is there now. The hole is for the lock.The lid hinges at the front .
 (http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2731.jpg)
 OOPS! Forgot to show how I extended the box..cut off rear curve,replaced with aly downward curved piece to follow the line of the top tube,then extended the base.The 2 rivets each side that hold the extended rear part will be covered with aly discs.
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2732.jpg)

Nice woodworkiness.

Gluetastic.. It'll be the first trike to have woodworm in years to come :)

looks spot on now Rod with the box following the radius of the top bar down to the seat

Like the idea of woodworm and dry rot! ;D
 Thanks for comments.
   Rod

Looking good Rod.

There's a thought for a paint job!

Im doing that already BG....with pinholes in the filler and scabby bits of unfinished filler! ;D

Finished the box at last
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2743.jpg)

That looks really good.Is that a sponge fabric cover fixed on the top?

I thought you was being silly doing that so called box when you first started it and i thought it was going to look crap,but i hold my hands up and take my hat of to you, it really makes the difference and finishes your trike of well
Well done.

Hornet..I shaped the wood top with the sander to a concave section,then used a sort of wadding about 10 mm thick,compresses to about 5mm when stretched and stuck down .Vinyl on top.The lock is a swimming pool locker lock!(so should be water tight! ;D)

 Merv...Thanx.Just a whim really,never intended to be there originally,and was doubtful about it right to the last!
 
 Next thing Im doing at the moment is a rack for the rear.Built about 3 of them ,all look cr*p,decided on the last (4th)design,typical ::)
 Im trying to cover all bases with what I think I'll need when I actually take it out !
 Going to get insurance tamara,then visit DVLA with paperwork(and wonga!) ,and see if they will give me the reg there and then,apparently sometimes they do,so lets hope! I am carless at the moment,so will have to go by train to Chelmsford office,so hoping I get it all finalised on the day!Then its riding it to shake down any probs with it generally.Im sceptical, excited ,and very nervous all at once !
         Rod

Yeah, got to agree with Merv -I really didn't think that was going to work, but it looks great!

Nicely done mate...good luck on the day.

rod
  that looks good, it finishes off the top tube  :)

it stood out like doggs but now its painted it fills the gap left by a tank nicely

i think it looks different and really good.

well rod it looks super.hope you riding it now!! ?
gaz

Thanks for good feedback!
 Gazz,hows things mate? Still got the locost? Got it insured on vin number today,poss going to DVLA tamara to sort out the reg.

Hi rod. things ok lost my job 21 december due to disability.but life go's on.
no not got locost any more couldn't drive it after my accident.so now sold. hope you on the road soon

gaz

Sorry to hear about the job Gaz.Are there other things you could do?

 Today I went to DVLA. Paid the fee and the 12 mths tax,gave all the correct forms. They wanted to see all the receipts again,due to it being so long back that I presented them,(Jan 2010) when I went to get the vin from them,so lucky I took them with me! I asked how the receipts were evaluated,as the person doing this must be skilled at knowing what to look for. Apparently they use them to determine how much of the orig car is used,which decides if it will be a Q plate or not.I said I wasnt worried about it being a Q plate,and also pointed out that it said on a letter from DVLA after they had previously looked at the receipts that it would be a Q plate. Apparently they microfilm and store the main receipts,so that if in future a query comes up regarding whether it should be a Q or not,they can refer back.
  So ,now I have to wait for the reg. It could be anything up to 2 weeks.WoooHoooo!

Nice one rod,you'll soon be wizing around.

Think I'll wait for better weather..so cold out there!
 
 Anyone know what size no plate I have to get? Bike or Car size?

you can use car or bike

the bike plate is 9x7" leagal, i was going to ask about why the receipts were so important as i haven't got many,i had alot of the stuff already. Ive a hand written receipt for a reliant rialto is hand written excepted or do they have to be printed receipts?? :-\

When you think about it, receipts are 50% by hand and 50% printed,so I wouldnt think it matters.I suppose the DVLA generally uses the method I described,but I know stuff seems to alter from one branch to another. Mine was the Chelmsford one.
 
Zakboy. Im not too sure about plate size,as Im sure I read somewhere that if it was a car based trike it had to have a car size plate.I wouldve thought you were right,afterall a trike is a trike,car based or not!I cant find anything on the DVLA site about it...but Im probably looking in the wrong place as usual! ::)

i  had ,bike size, plate,s on my yank truck  it should have been illegal but because it was  Q plate it was ok.

so this helps make things as clear as mud ::)

had a bike size plate on my reliant trike never had any probs as you say a trike is a trike but i have had it the opposite way round and had a car plate on a bike trike with out any probs its never affected MOT witch ever way round iv had them.........BUT BECUSE IV HAVE HAD NO PROBS DONT MEAN ITS LEAGLE ...http://www.theplatemarket.com/display_of_registration_numbers.php#generalnumberplate

The VOSA inspectors were happy with hand written receipts for my truck.
As long as the digits are the right size & spacing, I doubt it matters if you use car or bike sized plates.
Haven't got the MSVA manual to hand at the moment, but isn't there some mention of having to provide a matching space for a plate on the opposite side if your plate's offset to one side? (doesn't mean you have to have 2 plates, just a space you could mount one in -if your trike was sold abroad for instance). Could be wrong.

I think the manual says thats the case for a bike Andy.
 Ive decided Im gonna go for a bike plate.

Woooo hooo!  Q plate reg received today!
 I also received all my bills back. Some of the bills for main parts(Forks,etc and the bill for the Reliant I massacred for bits),have been stamped and have the Q reg written on them by DVLA.
 Spending this afternoon going through the paperwork and sending off the Insurance info etc.Whittlesey Ins have been very helpful during the process.

Fantastic news Rod  ;D
I look forward to reading your write-up on the process!
So can I ask what it's cost to register your trike?

well done rod cant wait untill im in your shoes. to run it in and sort out the niggles you could always trail around the country and help us all finish our builds ;D

**UPDATED**...Heres a basic run down.......Make appointment at local dvla for inspection to get vin number.They record the engine number,and I guess they make a mental note of the main parts and check them against the bills.They take all bills and post them back with the vin and also a form to get stamped by a garage to verify that the vin is correct  after you have had it stamped (strange!)They also give you a list of docs they need to be able to get the reg. Not sure if I paid anything for that visit.
 Next ,download MSVA application forms (answer ALL of the questions) Phone Vosa (Swansea main branch,cant talk to local branches direct) book a test date. Send forms direct to local branch (address on reverse)with the fee £104 .They should then phone you direct to confirm date.
 With MSVA done,get trike insured on vin number,go to DVLA with cash( not sure if they take credit cards) for 6 or 12 months tax,and a registration fee of £55 and the insurance cover note.Also take all paperwork including the bills, just in case! I was in there about 25 mins . 3 days later they sent the tax disc and the new registration together with a form to varify the reg to allow the no plate to be purchased.
  Dont think Ive missed anything!
       Rod

I haven't actually MSVA'd a trike yet, but have heard all sorts of figures quoted.
So it's 104 quid, plus 55 quid  -£159. Then insurance & road tax. No MOT needed?
That's not too bad is it, considering you end up with a brand new, completely legit vehicle, that won't need an MOT for 3 years -you'd make back most of the registration fees with that saving alone.

Apparently its classed as a new vehicle ,so no mot for 3 yrs....Apparently ! .My insurers asked for the msva cert and the mot. I explained it didnt need one as it was a Q plate,they were happy. I think if it had to have one ,my insurers would have known,because they seemed clued up on everything else.

What a day!!
     Went out on trike for first time on the road..great!....until it broke down 1.5 miles from home!! ::) Got recovered by AA,What a palaver!
 The points plastic cam had melted.There was a thread on here about this but cant find it! If I recall correctly from my A35 days,the coil should be 9v or if 12v should have a ballast resistor? Not sure which coil I have on there until I strip it down. I dont recall the Reliant I stripped having a ballast resistor.So whats the best way round this? Buy new coil with known voltage (9v)? New points and condensor? or go electronic? Your thoughts pls guys...........

Interesting..do you have the sports coil and are your points still at the right gap could they of opened up? Mmm

Go electronic Rod

whats a ballast resistor look like??? i wasnt sure on this so i robbed the coil from my mums rover metro as i asume it has a ballast already built in??( mums metro was going to the scrap yard,had her new plugs and leads aswell ;D)

 ballast resistor

what year and engine was the metro ???? maybe you should have had the distributor aswell,,,,

95 m reg, was it a k series?? i cant think what it was now? the dizzy went in horizontal on the head if i remember right?

i think they only fitted ballast resisters to the reliant from 1981 onwards  ???

Reliant in their wisdom removed the separate ballast resistor and built it into the wiring harness , hence why you could not find it as it is just a wire .
Just fit a straight 12v coil with a live fused feed from the ignition circuit which is switched off when key removed  .

Use a Lucas DLB101 straight 12v coil or equivalent as per my article on Coil alternatives at

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/coils

Extract from above Link

Below is a list of Suppliers Part Numbers
.
SUPPLIER ............ PART NUMBER

Reliant ................ 17388

Lucas .................. DLB101
................................ 45058
................................ 45212
................................ 45213
................................ 45289
................................ CL1
................................ CL101
................................ CL15
................................ CL18
................................ CL2
................................ CL201
................................ CL21
................................ CL25
................................ CL31
................................ CL5
................................ CL61
................................ CL62
................................ CL63
................................ HA12
Beru ........................ .0 040 100 102
...............................  .0 040 100 106
...............................  ZS102
...............................  ZS106
Bosch ...................... .0 221 102 003
................................ .0 221 119 008
...............................  .0 221 119 018
................................ .0 221 119 027
...............................  .0 221 119 035
................................ .0 221 119 048
................................ .0 221 123 007
Bremi ....................... 11801
Commercial Ignition .. XIC8029
Delco ....................... 1115043
................................ 7992188
................................ CL3005
................................ CL3010
................................ DR505
Ducellier .................. 2526017
................................ 2526018
................................ 2526018A
................................ 2526020A
................................ 256017
................................ 2772
................................ 2790
................................ 2790000
................................ 520004
EPS .......................... 1.970.101D
Facet ....................... 9.6001
................................ 9.6001D
................................ 9.6037
................................ 9.6038
................................ 9.6075
................................ BS1
Halfords ................... Still to Find
Intermotor ............... 11040
KW .......................... 470 101D
............................... 470101
............................... 470137
............................... 470138
Motaquip ................. VCL200
Quinton Hazel .......... XIC8029 ; Refer to Commercial Ignition Part number above
Unipart .................... GCL 333

.
Try setting the ignition timing as per

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/ignition/ignition-timing
.
.
Or , if going down the electronic route , have a wee shufty at

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/electronic-conversions/how-to-fit-a-simonbbc-electronic-
kit
.
.

Thanks for info all.Am going electronic as per fifers post elsewhere,(good step by step info by the way)Ordering tomorrow.
 I fitted electronic to my A35 years ago,best thing I ever done after years of messing around with points,shouldve done it from the outset on the Reliant TBH,but Ive learnt my lesson today! Standing around in the cold even for a short time as I did today aint good,still I suppose thats what biking is all about!. Sons came down to support and wait with me,nice warm car!

On another note...The test ride...bearing in mind Ive never ever ridden a trike,and havent rode a bike in 40 years. ..........on my test ride today I didnt notice any steering shake at any speeds (max I got to was about 45mph with the dodgy points causing it to missfire)I started with tyre pressures at 20 rear and 21.5 front,too hard. Then tried 18 rear /16.5 front ,seems a bit better.will play around with pressures more when I get to drive it for longer distance. Had to brake hard on a local estate when some pillock came round a blind bend towards me on the wrong side of the road.Found the front end skidded first,is this about right? Also found steering quite heavy when turning corners (from main road to side road)at around 20 mph. A bit bouncy generally when driving in a straight line over potholes and road blemishes. One of the first roads I drove down on it was a road/lane that is notorious for bumps even in a car..bit of a shock that was!

That`s a shame mate, that you broke down, not that you`re going electronic.
I don`t mean to sound patronising, but, are you sure the heel melted and hasn`t just worn?
The reason i ask is that the heel on the points will wear very quickly if its not getting any lubrication.
Depending how old the distributor is, there will be 2 ways to lube the heel, either by oiling the felt pad on the points or by smearing a film of grease directly to the distributor cam.
If the heel is melted, and i`m not saying it isn`t, this means that the points have got extraordinarily hot.
This points (no pun) to a faulty condenser rather than a ballast resistor fault.
As has been said many times before, the ballast resistor reduces running voltage to the coil and has no direct relationship to the points, which merely switch the spark.

Anyhow, all thats irrelevant now as you are converting.  ;D

Well TBH T bone I put it down to the condensor,as the edges of contact area of the points were corroded and had 'fluffy' deposits on them ,which is a sign of condensor probs. I removed them at the roadside(dropped the screw in to the dizzy,so stripped out the base plate to retrieve ::)) cleaned them up best I could,but only a weak spark ,which I put down to battery,having had to crank it over so much to try to start it previous to that.The plastic had definitely melted round the  metal it was attached to. Im amazed it drove for the roughly 10 miles it did do!As you say ,all irelevant now as going electronic.

.

There are some poor quality points among the ones on sale recently .

A month ago I had a set which only lasted a couple of weeks { I do around 2,000 plus miles per month } .
I could dig my fingernail into the material the Blue heel was made from as it was so soft  :o.
.
.

Flap's orange Reliant trike melted the points a couple of times until we realised the problem, but only on long runs.
Hardtails -love 'em or hate 'em! The ride's a little, erm, interesting. More dumper truck than Rolls Royce. Get used to it kid  ;D
I run standard pressure in the front tyre, (about 35psi), & just 15 in the rears. Any more & it tends to get skittery. That softens the ride a little bit, but it's kinda a series of small bumps.
The heaviness of the steering depends on the rake of the front end. My trikes are normally around 45 degrees -makes 'em quite stable at speed, but as you say, a little heavy at low speed.
It probably seems a little odd to start with, but you soon get used to it. Personally I like the basicness of hardtails & find they give more feedback of the road conditions. Rigid is more fun!

Electronic from Simonbbc plus coil ,now ordered!

Heres the rack /backrest Im building in progress...painted it first coat,then decided to add to it and alter it!..
(http://www.rodschopshop.co.uk/photogallery/media/trike/IMG_2771.jpg)

Designed and bent up a very small rack for a tool roll behind the number plate,and made a tool pouch from leather today. Amazing how much time it took to come up with something for a few tools,not to mention the amount of times I removed and replaced the b****y numberplate mount to get it right!.Pics soon.

becomes addictive fella, cant leave em alone.

Went out today for a first proper ride. Was a bit apprehensive after breaking down 2 miles away from home,due to points ,a week or so ago,even took my AA card and a charged up phone with me just in case! But WOW! what a difference the elec ign has made! Runs nice. I could have stayed out for hours,just cruising around locally! A bit difficult to get used to the gearchanges,and a couple of times I held the traffic up ,cos I couldnt remember what gear it was in ,and stalled it as I pulled away.But I stayed calm and sorted it.Even stalled it right outside the local bike shop  ::) ::).
 Something about this biking lark ya know..my local Heine Gericke shop was really helpful when I asked about probs with my crash helmet,not even a hint of "wot? you dont know how to dothat"  All bike people seem friendly.Looking forward to more riding out as the weather gets better.

Think most folk are a bit apprehensive first few rides rod i think once you have confidence in the trikes reliability it will be plane sailing and you will get on her and not give braking down a second thought,i went for a good blast out yesterday it was cold on the old hands though

I had gloves and loads of layers on,and didnt feel the cold. Maybe thats because I was concentrating so much on the riding! Now Im home ,we've got the heating on and Im b****y freezing! I agree about the reliability thing. When I build a car I take it out for a local 2 block run then back home to check it out,then a bit further,gradually increasing my radius as time goes on.

How easy was it to replace the points? Thinking about that myself :)

Congratulations Rod -fun ain't it!  ;D

Replacing the points with elec ign was easy. I followed fifers write up. I didnt remove the dizzy (and therefore its basic position) to do it,so I think that made it easy.Theoretically it shouldnt take more than a couple of hours to do tops,but I routed the extra wire required ,which meant re-doing part of the loom,and also I fitted and made a clip on cap to protect the top of the new coil from water.  This took time. But skates on here has had probs.
        Rod

That would be one of the kits to convert the standard coil .
as per http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle-deals/ignition-kit-bundles/45d-electronic-ignition-kit-standard-coil-to-match

Easiest way is to get a complete new electronic distributor from Simonbbc rather than just the bits to convert .
This gives you the choice of either
http://www.simonbbc.com/distributors/4cyl-standard-electronic/45d-electronic-distributor-powermax-reliant
Or complete with coil
http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle-deals/standard-distributor-coil/45d-reliant-sports-electronic-distributor-and-lucas-coil-dlb105
Note that when I came to fit my new distributor that I had to file the bit off the distributor to get it to fit into the hole in the block  :o
The quality of the casting was not good and the cap was crap , but once I filed the dizzy body and replaced the cap with a Lucas brass insert one , then it ran Ok .

The best situation if it was in a standard Reliant car is to retain the original distributor because that is set up for the vehicle and fit the electronic bits to it .
However , having said that , if the original distributor is worn then your timing with the electronic bits added is also not going to be perfect due to the wear .
If you have enough carrying capacity then Buy a complete distributor kit and store your old coil and distributor on the trike . Then it is just a 2 minute job to drop in by removing the one bolt from the dizzy clamp to engine , disconnecting the wires from the dizzy , discnnecting the vauum tube and dropping the points dizzy back in , reconnect and check timing and Bob,s yer Uncle .
If you have tuned the engine and fitted a different exhaust system then the brand new dizzy route is the way I would go .
PS . I removed the electronic dizzy after a couple of weeks cos I was bored with it and refitted the points dizzy  ;D ;D ;D
. .

Thanks chaps urm I'm running cbr600 carbs and my own made stainless sort of flowed exhaust, runs ok but just thinking ahead .:-)

Glad it's all getting sorted Rod

Pleased for you.  ;D

Thanks Iain. Already thinking about the next one! This time a morganesque car type... 2 wheels at the front /single rear wheel drive from a bike engine .

First sunny day for ages,so been out test riding it.Distributor probs now sorted ,goes really well. Takes a bit of getting used to,but I think I'll be ok. Didnt stop smiling !  ;D ;D
               Rod

Photos! Road test report! C'mon, we need more info!  ;D

Well,the ro(a)d test report goes something like..
.broke down 2 miles from home on first run out,recovered by AA ,points probs,changed to elec ignition.
 Today I took it on its longest run yet ,went about 20 miles,broke down! ::) :'( To say Im annoyed is an understatement! Broke down 1.30 pm ,got home by AA @6.00 pm!They couldnt find the place I had broken down ,due to a person at the control centre cocking up!Anyway..I reckon the head gasket has gone(remember I said I had no Mayo in the cap,but leaking from the breather??)Well it sure did manifest itself today!My nice clean,new trike is covered in oil and s**t! whole external of engine is oiled and leaking from near enough every area! Suspect head gasket! B*****cks!!!!! Im worried it may have warped the head and will need skimming/and or buggered the block.
 But ,hey,its only metal!
              Rod test reporter!

Sorry to hear about your misfortune mate hope you get it fixed soon  :(

Nightmarerama keep at it fella :)

If it's any consolation Rod, most of us have been there. Teething problems are just part of the journey. I'm fully expecting to fail to make it to the first dozen shows I set out for in my truck.
I know it's easy to say, but stick with it mate -you're at the last hurdle now. Take a deep breath, tackle one problem/leak/symptom at a time &, as we always advise, if it gets too much, shut the shed door & walk away for a while.  ;)

Rod it takes me back reading of your misfortune, when i first had the old gs 850,every time i went out on it i would have some minor prob witch would usually lead to me braking down,.....and if your not a member of one of the forth emergency services..... its a lonely place when you brake down....... and theres the reluctance to have to leave your trike on the side of the road unattended while you go off to find help, the main probs i had were electrical basically the electrical system on it was crap very poor wiring and i knew it, so at the time, such was my haste to want to get back out on it i would just give it a quick fix instead of tackling the probs full on, but you come to a stage where your braking down so often you begin to wonder if this is what triking is all about, so i did basically what MM is saying i took it of the road and addressed each issue one at a time till before even taking it out i was confident in my own mind there was nothing to go wrong.  after that i had a few good years of basically problem free riding.  it can get better Rod

  after that i had a few good years of basically fun free riding.  it can get better Rod.



fun free riding zakboy, you trying to put us off?

LOL...... is that better dobber, it was 6.30 in the morning

OK guys, thanks for the commiserations! :-*
 
 

Today a engine machining company rang me with a quote. He seemed very knowledgeable and genuine ,and is recommended locally.Total cost includes ,rebore/pistons/crank grind/ends/mains.skim head,gaskets etc is £833!! But he did say it may not need/probably wont need all the work anyway .Im still pondering what to do.. I obviously dont want to spend a lot,but on the other hand if its sh***ed it will have to be done!..I dont want to end up breaking down if something I havent had done fails.So.....I think I may take it to him with crank still assembled and let him have a look to see what is feasible .If something is within tolerances I will leave it.Then I'll get some idea of reduced cost.
 Another option is to buy a s/h engine,but its such a pain to keep messing about installing it,then may have to remove it if it too is knackered.

Blooming heck ... Buy a 2nd hand runner I say!

I say the same,but I dont want it to fail on me again! ;D

 :o :o £833 sounds an awfull lot  :o :o  last one i did/had machined was about 4yrs ago and was only £297 including new cyl liners if iremember correctly

i to would look for another lump  or do nearly all the work my self  the only thing you may need machining would be a crank ,grind, and maybe the head skimming the rest is staight forward enough

Rod. did the engine overheat. or was it a hot spot at the back of the engine.that caused it.
are you using the water way at the back of the head

P.S,,, i,d take the engine outa my trike for you for alot less than £833

Yes Im using the pipe to the rear.Fifer reckons it could be a air lock. Going to check this tomorrow.

Rod,Look for a complete car,MOTfail,With running engine,They are about,
You could sell the rest on.

I would say that it is 99 % certain that the head gasket has gone  :(
If your rocker cover breather cap looks like
Click on photo to enlarge
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/th_ROCKERCOVERGUNGEINFILLERCAP.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/?action=view&current=ROCKERCOVERGUNGEINFILLERCAP.jpg)

Then a good chance that the head gasket has gone { Note though that you can get mild examples of that through the engine not being used for a long time and /or very short journeys }
But if when you remove the rocker cover you have the following , then it probably has gone to the great bust head gasket home in the sky

Click on photo to enlarge
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/th_ROCKERCOVERGUNGEINALLOYROCKERCOVER.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/?action=view&current=ROCKERCOVERGUNGEINALLOYROCKERCOVER.jpg)
.
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/th_CYLINDERHEADGUNGEANDEXCESSRUBBERSOLUTIONFROMALLOYROCKERCOVERFITMENT.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/?action=view&current=CYLINDERHEADGUNGEANDEXCESSRUBBERSOLUTIONFROMALLOYROCKERCOVERFITMENT.jpg)
Note the black rubber sealant left by a previous owner using it to seal the rocker cover ; All you need is grease .

.
A warning sign of a poor previous head gasket change is any RED or Blue  stuff around the cylinder head join . You do not need to use any sealant whatsoever

Click on photos to enlarge
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/th_CYLINDERHEAD1996SHOWINGREDCRAP.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/?action=view&current=CYLINDERHEAD1996SHOWINGREDCRAP.jpg)

because the following is what you will end up with
(http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/th_CYLINDERHEAD1996SHOWINGBLOCKEDCHANNELSDUETOUSEOFREDCRAP.jpg) (http://s1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh543/fifermanky/CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STUFF/?action=view&current=CYLINDERHEAD1996SHOWINGBLOCKEDCHANNELSDUETOUSEOFREDCRAP.jpg)
.
The cylinder head can be assisted in removal by using the flat plate cylinder head removal tool
.
.

Fifer...yep all of the above but not so much mayo on the rockers! ;D I will be phoning you in the next couple of days...
Hunter...I know it would be cheaper to do that,but bearing in mind this engine came from a running mot'd car.............. ::)
 
 So,a bit of progress up to today..engine now stripped of all ancillaries/unbolted from frame etc,awaiting extraction tomorrow night!
 Will strip the rest of it ,clean all the ancillaries etc over the w/end
 Im intending to take it to the engine people on Monday pm.

rod,,

 if you get stuck or need it you can use my engine to get you back on the road untill you get youre,s sorted  i dont think i,ll need it in the near future

Thats a generous offer mate,but depending of course what they find at the engineering place,by the time Ive collected yours etc ,I may as well get mine done.Thanks very much anyway.
 
 ****Thinks...thats what this forum is all about..... people helping others..mmmmm s-o-o fluffy in here!

These were 2 separate engines and believe it or not the one with the gunge in the Alloy rocker cover , since someone else had recently changed the head because it was porous I just tightened the head down correctly { the bolts were only between 10 and 15 } , drained , flushed and refilled the coolant , drained and changed the oil and it has been running like a wee sweety for the last six months { Owner was a lucky person who works behind a bar  ;D}

No Problem  :)
.
.

 Found the problem! No1 piston has a lump out of it! As you look down on the piston ,about 25mm of the outer diameter of the piston to a depth of the top ring! The gasket seems ok,but must have been leaking at that point.No1 chamber in the head is mayo'd,but not the rest.Anyway,the lump that has broke off has caused the wall of the bore to be really badly scored etc. May get away with a re bore on that pot only,as the others look in vg cond with no ridge at the top of the bore etc.

Ouch!

if its scored its best to fit a full set of liners

false economy boring one pot

another option is to get another block to rebuild

i can take the head of the spare engine in the shed and see how good that block is if you want  it could workout a lot cheaper  ;) ;)

Wow ; Not heard of that happening in a looooooong time  :o

..

So,with these engines ,do they automatically replace the liners when reboring? Is replacing them going to be costly?
 
 Been looking around,seen a couple of engines, The one on flea bay may sound ok,but Im a bit dubious about the heritage/history of stuff like this! Think Ive got to take it to the engineers and see what they say,at least then Ill know the cost.PLUS of course,Im looking for a quick turn around.
Arrggh!

Brand new set of 4 pistons / liners straight from Reliant
£220 plus £10 postage
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reliant-Robin-Rialto-Piston-Liner-Kits-850cc-750cc-/180595846658?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0c59ee02 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reliant-Robin-Rialto-Piston-Liner-Kits-850cc-750cc-/180595846658?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0c59ee02)

and they might find it could do with new mains / big end shells { up to £130 }
New engine gasket set around £45
New valve springs ?
Check the valves ?
£50 drop in replacement engine or bottom end looks good to me { But then what more do you expect from  a Scotsman  ;D ;D ;D  }
You can then get the original engine rebuilt at your leisure as you zoom around on the trike .
.
.

micheals of selby have just down scaled, they might have a few running engines, their stuff is good, and parts cheaper than most i find, ask for dennis in the spares dept

Thanks Digger
        Just rang them,parts dept closed until Monday,will ring then.

try these people, not that far from you, we have been using then for about 40 years, they are very good, they could probably bore the liners and supply OS pistons.

http://www.thurstonengineering.co.uk/


hth
snafu

I saw them when looking originally. Will give them a ring on Monday,thanks.

Been stripping the block/head . Trying to remove the studs from the head. Ive got about 4 that wont move,so leaving them to the reconditioner! Working on these aly engines is different to iron heads and blocks!

Engine now at reconditioners who are going to give me a more exact price once theyve looked at it.

Well...hmmmmm...been thinking about whether to go for reconditioning this engine or buying s/hand.....
  A s/h engine could be just another heap of trouble ,either now or at a later date.I personally think a recon will be better cos at least I know what has been done and the condition of the internals,so Im going to get it done.Im not exactly overjoyed at the cost,but hey ho ,here we go!

Wot a lucky engine :) you could always do a fiat swap like the racers do

Fiat??

Fiat 1108cc "fire"engine mated to a reliant box with an adapter plate the formula v guys used to do it :) jus thinking out the box :)

Like this. For sale on Ebay a little while ago.
Fiat Uno engine mated to a Cossack/Dnieper/Ural gearbox.

Sweeeeet

Rhino trikes did some with car engines mated to Cossack gearbox, still gives reverse gear

I'd love to try a Reliant with a Ural gearbox. Seen several in sidecar outfits, but not sure what the gearing would be like with a Reliant axle. It'd give you a bike style foot gearchange, which would do away with the problem of siting the gearstick, plus a kickstart!

I have seen 2cv and small Fiat engines in trikes with that setup Andy. Wouldn't the 2v be similar gearing wise?

Kick start! Think they invented starter motors for a reason Andy.. lol didn't they go out of fashion with the flag bearers ;D

I'm taking the starter motor off my XS650 & going back to kick start only.

that,l fool most bikers under 30, they won t know how to start it ;D

Last time I started a kick start was November 1990! Cb125 still have the scars  :-[

Try a BSA DBD34 GOLD STAR with the timing out  ;D ;D 

used to have a high comp xr600, manual decompressor,
killed many an ankle

Mr M I think you might require an exhaust valve lifter,(aka De-compressor!) if you don't want a broken ankle. DBD 34's I always had to "bump", and my Velocette definitely needs it valve lifter, so....... or keep the electric boot!....... Morrag

ive a 1957 g3ls matchless with a 500cc single fitted,was me dads every day bike i inhereted it a 18year ago years ago, being only 12 year old i had no idea what that short little curved leaver was for....the teeth marks in my right knee tought me not to be so cocky :-[

Jeez, what a bunch of girlies! I've had several XS650s before & although I admit I was 20 years younger then, never bothered with the button. I always kick started them. The very first XSs had a valve lifter, which is why one of the valve covers is a different shape to the others, even on the later models.

Back to my build!........
 Well,here we go again..more probs! ::) It turns out that number 1 bore is so fubared that a plus 20 bore isnt losing the score marks on the original liner ::).Have just ordered complete set of liners/pistons etc from Michaels of Selby. Dennis the parts man is a diamond,and really knows his stuff! So its another wait for the parts to arrive! Im tearing my hair out ..too much suspense! ;D Should all come together in the end!.....
 
 ***I'll go back to sulking and nail biting in the corner of the room then*** ;D

Broken ring then ?

i think thats rods buisness steve :o

Broken edge to the piston crown.
 
 Now,...about my split- ring............ ;D ;D ;D ;D

ive been rebuilding  engine s  for over 30 yrs and  i wouldnt have ,bored , it  i dont like re-linering them unless needs be   but in the reliants  case  its the way to go  go

I think Id've bought another engine!
Keep plugging away Rod -it'll be worth it I promise.

Well as I said before,another s/h engine is another potential problem. I dont know how you would have got around not reboring it.Im not at all happy about the cost of having to re do it ,its really grinding at me,but if I dont,the trike is worthless!
 Its already in my head that I will sell it after one season TBH! At present,I have no vehicle at all to use,and TBH I'm not particularly bothered or missing the use. ,in fact after the probs Ive had with the last couple of vehicles Ive owned,and having no o/time at work plus a drop in income,Im quite happy not to have the expense,or the 'mill stone', I can manage without one. I know at some point its inevitable I will need to get another car/van to be able to get out more,but may just use the trike for every day use.TBH having been a petrol head since 10 yrs old (49 years!) I never ever thought in my wildest dreams that I would be thinking like this! Sadly the state of the economy ,petrol prices etc, all car tinkerers are at risk.So the govt plan of taxing us to the f*****g hilt is working in this household at least . ::)Sorry to ramble!....
            Rod
 

Your post has me really thinking about the cooling on mine now, ummmm

i,m stuck  at what i can do to help  owt iv got is youre,s if it will help ,,,

Rod, I've no idea what your engine rebuild's costing you, but I'm pretty sure you could pick up 2 or 3 spare engines for the same money.
I understand you wanting to start with a motor you know is good, but Reliants are pretty ...reliable. I've owned half a dozen at least & not had major mechanical problems with any of them, other than those created by my own incompetence. You've been very unlucky, but throwing money you can't afford at it will only make you resent it more, (I've been there countless times with previous projects & know what it's like to stare into a bottomless money pit, believe me).
If you're already committed to paying for the rebuild, then at least get your money's worth from it when it's done. Give the trike a chance to put the grin back on your face.   

Thanks Spanners and Andy for the kindness! TBH Ive stared in to many bottomless money pits over the years! I'll get over it guys,Im sure ! ;D At least I know that its a good engine....hopefully!! ::)I'm gradually coming round to the idea! Roll on those happy triking days guys!
            Regards ....

keep your chin up rod, look on it as things can only get better. if you carefull with the cooling there reliant engines(excuse the pun) i see what you mean about buying another as it may well be a knacker,but at the cost of £150 or there about its probably worth the risk in my opinion, one on ebay in spalding(am i right in saying that your neck of the woods?? not far from my sis either) only made £125 last week

just missed 3 last week at ,,scotter,, bottom,, in sc**thorpe for  £75 the lot  :o



the lads at the yard piled em up an set em alight for a ,,,laff ,,,,,,,

i was about 2 hrs too late to save em ,,,,

At least I know that when the engine is installed I only have to 'plug and play' as all the pipework ,wiring etc is set up!

Continuing the saga ::)............Yesterday I had to order new little end bushes.old ones were completely shot!
 Today it was the turn of the inlet valve! The inlet on no2 pot was bent!  :o I would have thought it likely on no1 pot ,where the piston broke up,but this engine shows signs that it has been apart before (piston numbers dot punched on crowns to ease previous re assembly) So whatever happened ,I reckon they missed this damage!
 Im feeling happier that I'm having the work done now ,and getting all this sorted! Hey Ho! ::) Theoretically should run like a rolex!

Does that mean that you will have to keep a watch on your speed ? ;D ;D ;D ;D
.
.

Give it time ,give it time mate! ;D
 Its not a secondhand engine is it? ;D
 And I'm paying cash,not on tick! ;D
 

Hey, when it's done it will be "Ace", and this time next year you will have forgotten the cost,( even if ' er indoors hasn't!! ;) ;)), hey ho......keep smilin' Morrag ;D

Theoretically should run like a rolex!

-sounds like a wind up to me.   ;)

Takes time to get it right.....you could say its a time piece! :D

when running in ,time, comes you want a nice ,tick ,tick,, from the tappets ,,

your stessing over nothing rod,she'l run like clockwork when er's done ::)  and like you say all pipe work and electric is all there so it should only take a few "miniutes"

I'll second that!

Back to the build............Im now in posession of a gleaming reconditioned engine,about the only thing not done is the cam bearings! So rebuilding starts tamara!

Engine now ready to be installed!

yyeeeeeaaaahhhhh ;D im full of happieness after a very productive day today, so i shall share some. 

Brilliant news , Rod

.

on the road on sunday then  ;) ;)

Engine now bolted in,propshaft half bolted up,deffo will be running,if not driving at the w/end! 8)

Piccies! We need piccies!

Hve taken pics,but having probs with my website to host them,awaiting a 'geek' to sort it!!

This morning have more or less finished assembly. Cranked it over,but battery didnt last long,so now waiting ::) for the battery charger to do its work. Typical! forgot to put it on charge yesterday. Resting my knees and my back for a couple of hours now!
 Once Ive actually got it running,Im following the fifer head torque tip of........ torque up head,run engine to get warm,then leave to cool off for a few hours,then re torque,so dont look like a drive is on the cards until at least tomorrow pm! Thats if I can get it to fire at all! Thinking about temporarily reverting back to the points for the initial starting,at least I can see whats going on then!

Do you need to use run-in oil.. Umm

Someone mentioned this on the r3w forum. Hadnt heard of that stuff in many years,didnt know they still sold it! Using Halfords classic 20/50.
 Impatiently tried to start it again,battery not topped up enuf!! So..Im going to pull the r/cover ,check valves on no1 are closed,then re time again this time will fit the points and condensor ,then fit the elec ign back later.At least I can see when its supposed to fire by lining up the points heel to the cam. Cant see this on the elec ign. Going to wait at least til later today ,if not tamara to get the battery fully charged.Hey Ho!

The monster has stirred! It lives! Distributor not quite in same place as other engine,but ok. I put this down to the positioning of the distributor drive..one tooth 'out' from original place.(shouldve listened to Fifer!)Now, I could pull the sump and repositon it, but ...but...I just havent got the patience ! Tomorrow its rockers off,re torque head,and re set tappets properly(a bit noisy at the moment).Also got to add a/freeze to the water.

That's great news Rod. An expensive & frustrating set-back, but sounds like you'll still be ready in time to go cruising this Summer. Pleased for you mate.  ;)

I use 3 feeler gauges to check the tappet gap of 6 thou cold
8 thou gauge should not fit
4 thou gauge should be a slack fit
6 thou gauge should be perfect fit  :)


Yep ,the reliant lump MUST have Blue antifreeze in all year round .
And , if you come from a limy water area , use bottled water to dilute it if using the concentrate otherwise you will get a silted up engine .

All up and running ! Gave it a short run round the grounds,seems very smooth and quiet. BUT ......now it appears a fork oil seal is leaking! :o ::) b***er! Got to go get some info and try to do these myself to cut down on cost..been reading up on them,seem relatively simple,so may give it a go. Found a guide that shows how to get around having expensive specialised tools.Is it worth me trying,or is it specialised?

what forks you got on rod

 found out after put new 30w oil in mine are pissing out. got to see if i can get someone to do them for cheep, i dont think im gonna be able to  do them buy me todd its a two handed job >:(

hi mate ,
I'm sure you could, my brother done both his bikes one being a 250 Honda motocrosser and the other being a 1200 bandit which he fitted gsx upside down forks on.

there are a few u tube vids out there that explain ,looks reasonably easy! Appears it can be done singlehanded ,easily. Going to get a quote today from a bike shop..need them done asap.

Have a go.. All part of the fun :)

theres a guide in trike tech rod, im gonna have a bash at it, are you game rod it will be a laugh reading eachother posts if it all goes wrong ;D

nothing to do with this topic,but has your brother had a phrostetic fitted  was wondering how he kept his hand on the bars?? i thought about putting two velcro strips under the grip to hold my fingers and hand sucure?

To be honest I just cant afford the time to mess about with the seals,and also the possibility of a cock up,so got a price from the local bike shop..£65 plus the seals. The quote is for forks on the bike,ie take the whole thing there,but I told him I would just bring the legs in. So hoping it will be cheaper.

i did seals on my old g5 honda forks. quick n easy. were the first n only ones i ever did.

im gonna do them ordered seals up today, it one of them jobs that can never need doing  in 10years or more of riding and owning many bikes,i think that why we assume its not an easy job and opt to pay £60+ to have it done. 2 of the lads at old work need there forks doing asked me if i can do mine ,can i do theres is it better to buy a fork seal driver or a bit of off cut erw do the trick??

Hi oab
He has a phrostetic arm and hand, the hand has spring loaded thumb and forfinger which holds and lock onto the bars.
If he came of the bike the finger and thumb would spring apart allowing the hand to come away. He lost his arm above the elbow. The only time you will see him where his arm is when he is on the bike or fishing,yes he ties his own hooks.
He says the arm is just a tool no diffrent from a spanner,it just does a job. On the 1200 bandit he mounted the clutch lever on the frame so he uses his left knee to use it ,the throttle is on the left side of the bars as his front brake. On the motocrosser he uses a jet ski throttle with a slipper clutch.If you had seen it you would of cryed laughing,he did a sponsor hare and hounds race for the Bristol limb center,part way through he came of he left the bike were it landed and sat on the bank having a smoke the only problem was his arm came out of the shoulder socket and was still attached to the bike,when the other riders came round the bend they saw his bike with a arm sticking up out of the bike. To say it caused a pile up was an under statement.He does have a sense of hummer ;D

 :D :D :D fair play to him, clutch on the frame is a good idea better than the double lever, with the throttle is it a special reversed one or does he have to rev upwards, only being nosey as i have an old matchless and i thinking of finishing that off now the trikes nearly done,

Sounds like a bit of armless fun :)

Standard throttle,twist same way has you would use right handed but with left hand, just twist back

Well definately have a go and dont do what I did. About 18 months ago I wanted new seals in a pair of ZZR11 forks and took them to local bike shop. When asked I said yes get original seals not generic and left them to it. Dont think I have ever paid for seals to be done before but hadn't done any myself for near on 30 years.


Anywayyyyyyyyyy when I went to collect them they cost £80 !!!!!!!!

Well worth a try first ;)

    guy allots  (cost-a-lotts)  by any chance  ::) ::)

stanchions now at bike place..we'll see!  ;D
 whilst Im waiting,Ive started to re design the rear seat. This is a prob which I never thought of until My daughter complained that she was sliding sideways across the seat as we went in to corners,and it was hard to hold on! Obviously a normal bike leans,but a trike stays flat . I tried to make  a grab handle each side ,but without welding to the frame and disturbing the paint etc,they look messy. What is needed is "cheeks". so now Ive now made up 2 brackets out of 40 x 5 flat,that will mount under the seat acrossways(rivetted to the u/s of the seat pan, one front one back,sticking out either side about 4". At the point they pass the edge of the seat they come upward about 45 degrees. Temporarily mounted on these will be a block of wood ,the thickness of the existing padding,each side ,which I can then reduce in height/length etc until they feel right to sit on ,then remove them and make them of thinner timber padded ,about 1 1/2" thick.Im hoping this will stop the sliding around on the seat! I have to make them "universal" ,because SWMBO has a wider ar,er.... posterior, than my daughter ,so they have to be one size fits all! ;D......"overkill" you may say......... ,but I need this seat to 'work' as a) Im hoping SWMBO will be persuaded to come out for rides,and B) I intend to cruise the hell out of this thing across france next year,with a reccy to France hopefully this year.
 Ive also lifted the front of the seat about 1 1/2",which is more comfortable according to ma bitches!
 In the past Ive spent a lot of time with the ergonomics of  car and van the seats to make them more comfortable.

A comfy seat can make the difference between a bar hopper & a long distance cruiser. Sounds like you've put a lot of thought into that.

Surely it's easier to pork up a bit for that natural padding :)

No Mike was Swains up near mines research.

I suspect it was the oem seals that bumped the price up, just seemed a lot but I haven't had any done before so nothing to compare it to. Swains are good usually and I know them well although it was normal price :)

theyve just had a big fire near there  ;) i think the person had it coming  ;) ;) ;)   or was it an insurance job ::) ::) :)

Front end now all back together.£72 inc vat.to do seals. Just got to check the water level,Fifer style, then its test drive time,maybe this eve,or first thing tomorrow! Woohoo,cant wait! Typical though..now the weather has changed and it was drizzle here earlier ::)!

Go enjoy the ride!

she lives!,she flies! goes real well,apart from a small oil leak!

SWEET, , , bit like brit bikes for oil leaks

well,,, it is brit built  ::)

Im not English! ;D
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 only kidding!

i dont mind the little leeks or niggles,as its better saved for a nice chilling sunny day, and quite enjoyable even if you spend 8hrs doing an oil seal ;D

Whoooooo Hooooooo :)

So an update after having done a few local run arounds. Ive still got the front oil seal on the g/box dripping a bit when parked up. Gonna try to use some additive(by Wynns I believe) to swell the seal.If it doesnt work I'll wait until winter to pull the engine ::).
  Ive now got a strange leak (drip)from the sump pan! The sump has been brazed up on the n/side at some point,and the leak is from near this area,but underneath the pan,so I cant see it correctly. Tried cleaning up and skimming over with araldite,but didnt work. Waiting for the 500 mile first service to drain oil and pull the pan off to sort it. I could do it now,but dont want to waste more oil/money! Im also waiting to fit the s/s sump cover I made a while back,but not worth doing it yet.
  Ive now sorted the rear seat with 'cheeks ' added to the sides of it to prevent the pillion pass.sliding across the seat on corners.
 Noticed a distinct lack of storage space. Couldnt find any panniers to fit that looked right,so am in process of making some! After various stages of construction ,starting with a card mock up,I then built two identical accurate wood 'skeletons' to wrap aly round. Have clad them today,waiting for the adhesive to cure.Will pad the front hinged lids in same fabric as the rest,and put locks on them.They will sit just in board of the rear wheels. They are only about 12" high,and about 15" long x about 5" wide. Hoping to have all the upholstery re-done in a few months time,but looks good for now.
 Have taken pics,but my website has a prob,so I cant host them,sorry about that!
 Trying to get all this done now,as I have an eye op soon which means I cant do much until after its healed (yeah,right! ;D)Straight after the recovery time we will hopefully be going to France on the trike.

sounds like you been busy

I really need to get out and ride this thing more Merv! ;D

thinking aloud..............What with all my experimenting with seat angles etc,Im finding without a passenger I tend to sit very much to the rear of the drivers seat,I think in the winter Im gonna move the tank (horizontal cyclinder) backwards about 3" . This will give me space to build a low backrest on the front seat ,and also re do the pillion seat.This may bring a problem ,because as the rear seat goes further back ,the frame gets wider,making it more uncomfortable for the pillion. I may also lift the rear seat a few inches to get round this. All easy stuff,just time consuming TBH!

That's what road-testing's all about Rod.  :)

As I'm waiting for cylinders/liner kit, (got disc today. Thanks ever so much Rod), I've spent all day doing an "Andy field", (Manky). Had the disc cutter and grinder out changing things before its otr  :D  Fitted the new front end which I'm chuffed with I must admit, but it lead me down the path of steering stops riser/bars all being different. I made the bars and risers and they look 1000% better. Can only just reach on full lock but hey ho!! How wide are some of your lots bars spanning the tank? Also shaped the gussets to look better. Sooooo glad I didn't powder coat now. Thought about ditching the pig rad for a zzr600 one that's laying about....so I slapped myself around the face and said NO! but by those few small details and front end it's compleatly changed the look of the trike. As you're doing now Rod, it's the initial riding and getting some miles on the clock where the unseen niggles come to light. Didn't intend to hijack your thread, just can't help but ramble on when I'm on here ;)

No probs OAB. Just going to spend another day in the workshop building and fitting my panniers.

I'm itching to get going on mine Tuesday but waiting on the postie again.. Bit addictive all this :)

(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/547930_204491992986715_100002777480836_244244_457194045_n.jpg)

GOD,,, that looks good,,

Wow...thats changed a bit.

Glad you like!

see mike a few weeks and you would only need to look on the drive to say that ;D

looks like youve done a tidy job of those little ods and ends rod(pretty quickly aswell) any chance we could have some side and rear pics to admire it looks so much different from your old build pickies. i bet reliant wish they had this idea in the first place :P. it should proudly support a mmm badge ;)

Will get some more pics tamara.

Have to agree Rod. Very tidy. The modifications don't look like after thoughts, but rather part of the original design. Nice.

What a lovely job , Rod :).
You should be proud of your efforts  :)
.
.

How are your brakes set up? Foot peddle?

Thanks Fifer.
 Yes Steve, foot pedal operates all brakes. With equaliser in rear circuit.

Do you think you need an equaliser if only one caliper at front? Also wots an equaliser .. Lol

I should have said adjustable brake compensator! It allows the brakes to be adjusted to give more/less bias to the rear brakes.I fitted it from the outset ,cos I didnt want the hassle at a later date of having to fit it if needed,but I dont think many on here have one fitted. I set it at about half way and havent touched it yet! Having said that,Ive only had to aggresively hit the brakes once,so Im not entirely sure if I will adjust it at a later date,but its there if I do. (I have twin bike discs on front and golf calipers/Nova discs on rear.)

Haven't had one on my trike builds before, but haven't put a trike through the MSVA test either. I'm not sure what their take on linked brakes is, though I know they wanted all trikes to have linked systems at one point. More bias toward the front, as I've got to do with my truck for the commercial vehicle SVA test, or to the rear? Heavy braking on the front doesn't sound like a good idea cos it'll lock up the front wheel & you'll have no steering. I guess if needed, you adjust it to the front for the test, then alter it afterwards. I know adjustable valves have to be locked in one position for the test so they can't be accidentally altered.
Think I'll probably fit one when I finally get back to my build.

I assume it locks rear up first? How does it feel when braking sqwats?

Very, very, very nice Rod :)

looks sweet rod  :)

As I said I set mine at about half way. At no time did the MSVA guy ask about the adjuster (the knob(oo er  )is on view) and has a lock mechanism I built for it on view as well. A few people have asked what it is.Maybe  the test doesnt go as far as testing what the brake bias is,I dunno.I did have quite a job holding the front wheel in the roller when the test was done...before the roller was started up he warned me that it would pull (to the left I think) but I wasnt prepared for how much! the wheel tried to 'climb' out of the roller onto the side. After a couple of times of removing it completely and starting again it all came good. I was a bit worried about that during the test,as I thought it would seem I was deliberately doing it to f**k up the front brake test,but he wasnt concerened and quite understanding when I couldnt hold the wheel straight,I think I would need bars about 6ft wide to get the leverage to hold it!!

Lovely that Rod, certainly looks different to pics I have seen of it before :)

now that looks really well,very professional.

But pics always make things look good! What you cant see is the dodgy paint on the rear guards etc. Its really bugging me! Lots to do next winter me thinks!

Yeah but I bet you have OCD, I am sure it wouldn't bother me if I had it ;)

Just like things right! ;D ;D

Ride it as it is Rod. Make a list of the faults, fix the little ones between rides, then the big ones over the Winter.
Most importantly, get out there & enjoy it!  ;D

Cracking job !  ;)

so,.....Im off work this week,and then I have no spare time  until June ,when (hopefully) I will be going to France on the beast. 8) I also want to make Bum in the Mud Rally,and Trikefest before June.Thought it best to sort the oil leaks now,so Ive stripped the engine ready to lift it out this eve when help arrives! Ordered oil seal for the front of g/box etc,should arrive tomorrow. Looks like I'll be back on the road by Thursday then! Oh,and of course I broke summat whilst stripping it! ::) The sender bulbous bit on the end of the fan sensor broke off the tube,I may be able to solder it ,but aint got the time,so ordered a new one from CBS,and I'll play around with the repair of the other one at a later date.
 Im using the rest of today to finish my panniers and mount them .Have run out of paint,so will have to order some of that as well! ::)

if youre gonna go to    trikefest   might even see if i can make it  went last year just as a visitor for a few hours ..

Not sure yet mate,all hinges on how the recovery after my pending eye op goes! I went a couple of yrs ago for the day,fantastic to see so many trikes in one place!

TrikeFest at Ely, Cambridgeshire? That was the last trip I did on my last trike.

was it ??????????????????????  that explains alot  :o :o :o :o :o :o

Aint trippin' nowhere at the moment,with my shaft ( oo er missus! ;D) issues!! Only trippin Im doing is over bits of engine and gearbox in the garage!

So an update....... Researched the speedi sleeve idea,and also whether it is poss to get a different type of oil seal that contacts the shaft in a different place,therefore missing the 'glitch' .The best I could do is a narrower seal,which will only move the contact area about 1mm,so not enuf.Cant move the oil seal further out of the housing due to the back of the flywheel .
   So...Speedi Sleeve it is. Ive had the re con guy round and he says try the Speedi Sleeve first,if it doesnt work the crank will have to come out and be machined,but that starts  another set of probs. He is going to re imburse me the parts cost.Sleeve should arrive tamara.Cant get a narrow enuf sleeve,so will have to cut it down.

Well at least the re-conditioning guy did the decent thing.

Heres yours truly with engine re assembled waiting for help  to arrive to lift it in.....
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/563248_206917106077537_1855328687_n.jpg)

Fitted the speedi sleeve and cut it down in width with a borrowed dremmel tool. Metal wasnt as hard as I was led to believe!So time will tell! May have it running tonight,if not first thing tamara.

There's a happy looking Triketeer  ;D

Personally I like the new look headlight development although white might not work with the blue  ;D
 

 ;D ;D
 
 so Ive got the speedi sleeve on ,and cut down . Eng/box back in frame. Was going to bolt the ancillaries on today,but last night it dawned on me............This 'ere sleeve is like a top hat ie tube with a rim at one end.The rim is used to bear a tool on and you tap the sleeve on. The rim  has 'break away' line ,so that it can be removed if required.I left it on.
    Some write ups on the net say it is best to remove it ,as the oil may not get to the actual seal area of the oil seal,and cause friction,therefore the seal becomes worn. . Im going to remove the engine,cut the rim off and re do the whole thing,cos I just cant be having anymore probs with this! Hey Ho,just another couple of days to wait to sort this! Aaaaaaarrrgggghhh!

seen em run years with the top hat on , no probs, do it for peace of mind, but i shouldnt worry

I reckon youre right,and I s'pose it is all down to the actual area the sleeve is fitted to. As much as I dont want to p*ss around anymore with this ,I just gotta have peace of mind! Treading water today,and its doing me head in! ;D

Building stuff's fun isn't it!  :P

Yep,sure is!   :(
 Son home from work,so engine now out again! G/box off,cut away rim of sleeve.If Im honest ,in hindsight,I couldve made a better job of cutting the sleeve width down,but I reckon it will be ok.Now got to wait until Monday night to get a new oil seal,as I'm not chancing the one Ive taken off,even tho' it was new,cos it will have probably snagged on the rough edge and damaged the sealing rim.When fitting it,I wrapped the edge of the sleeve in tape to prevent this,but I couldnt wrap it in tape to get it off. Hey Ho! Hope its ferkin worth it in the end! Its been a long week in the workshop poncing around with this and waiting for bits etc! Hoping to get it all running for the w/end ..Bum in the Mud Rally.
 Wait for the next thrilling instalment(or removal of )..................the engine!!!!!! ;D ;D

if it wasnt for the hassle youve had with the engine you have no excuse to get in the workshop with the trike, if it was 100% reliable you would create problems just to be with her.. :D

Yeah probably! BTW how do you know its a she? ................ah! I know how.............cos its been a right biatch! ;D

its cost you a fortune
its caused you a load of mither
theres been times when you wanted rid
and times when you could slap it
   now whats that exhaust for again??? :D :D

Cant do much today,so thought I would do a detail of my shifter,which may be of help to someone.so here it is courtesy of Jodys comp wizardry........
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/DADEDIT.jpg)
 A TO B = 3 7/8"
 B TO C = 3"
 C TO D= 10"
 
 I tapered the top of some 8mm nuts to allow the rod end to travel as far as I dare.(joint B)
 Pivot at A has bronze bushes. to accept 8mm bar that runs through a piece of tube that fits losely over the bar.
 the 'pin' pivot at C is a piece of 6mm stainless rod threaded both ends.
 I found the orig. g/lever was slightly bent as it came out of the ball and cup,so I straightened as best I could,then brazed a sleeve over,(about 1" long) it to up the diam.and straighten it .
 Then I machined a lump of bar to accept a bronze bush that fits the g/lever stub.
 I drilled the end of the g/lever to accept a 5mm(I think) bolt,which sits in the base of the fork at C. This allows the 'fork' to rotate ,but not come off the g/lever stub.
 the g/lever is mounted on a lump of 1/2" block,that is a tight fit into the fork.
 I had to juggle the g/lever length and the way it is fixed to this block so that it clears my frame.
 I did find that there was a lot of strain on the spring clip holding the ball/cup in ,hence I built the stronger mounting for it.
 Most of the components are as I first did them for the prototype. It worked so well firsttime,that I just beefed everything up with weld etc,so some of it doesnt look too fancy!In the rides Ive had so far it has been very positive gearchanging. I've got another orig g/lever that Im going to modify into a basic dogleg,as a quick replacement just in case this one breaks1

(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/dad.jpg)
 
 Ive been builing these panniers out of aly etc. The padded lid is just sitting on top for effect.

So does the gearchange take the sloppiness out? I've got a similar shaped gearstick on my trike build, but because it's on it's side it gives an odd change pattern & there's lots of travel across the box from 2nd to 3rd.
Panniers look much nicer than a plain square box.

Theres definitely no slopiness . The change pattern is the same as usual,but TBH I havent give the distance between gears a thought! It was very easy to get used to ,and second nature now.
 
 The panniers took many hours to make,as there are so many processes involved.As with all botchers shed builders,I can see the faults,and ideally would like to make another set!

Have you seen the Jinlun paniers? you may like those I've got a set fitted on mine, check put this number on eBay 30 quid a pair With frame, keyed lock n lights 320881288793

Looked at those..couldnt see the sort of price you quoted though!
 

And so with new seal fitted,the re fitting of the engine and box and re assembling the ancillaries onto the engine begins!

Good luck!  ;)

all up and running again. Have driven it on my private test track appears not to be leaking anywhere ,but going to take it out on the road later today then I'll check it over again!

That sounds like good news

Don't forget Rod, they are a very basic little engine. I know in theory any engine can be made 100% oil tight, but the combined might of the entire British bike industry couldn't manage it. I suspect you're just gonna have to embrace it's leakiness & love it with all it's faults & foibles. That's part of the fun!  :P

Yes Andy but a lot of that was because they never thought of using horizontally split cases instead of vertical :)

Look what Yamaha did when they redevolped the Triumph engine into the XS650.

iv had 7 reliants in various guise, only 1 leaked, head gasket fault,
it,l go oil tight no probs

Easy to get the Triumph twins oil tight .
Drill and vent the rocker covers  and crankcase and pare the edges of the pushrod tunnel seals .
Averaged 40,000 to 50,000 miles a year on my Triumphs , Tribsas and Tritons and never had a Leak .
.

Hey All.......guess what ? It still LEAKS!!!! AAARRRGGGHHH!  :'( :'( ::)
 Im not pulling the engine yet again,so it can bloody well stay like it now!

Told you so.  :P

Cant believe it though,after re doing the shaft and the seal ,and taking so much time aligning everything!
 Now appears I have a another problem.....
 Just had the fork seals done,and one is very slightly leaking! Im wondering if the sliding bush thingies in the forks need doing,as the piston could be not quite concentric to the bore?

i,ve bought crap fork  seals by mistake in the past brand new and leaked.

Probably just the seals ..

a few mates have had fork seals done by reputable bike places round here paid £70+ and theyve still leaked most have been found to have had damaged seals one even had the old seals still in. i think some just bash away at them to much, thats why i choise to do my own, easy job to do i made my own drive and rod tool used fairly cheep seals and there fine no leaks. ive two sets here now of a mates crosser and his dads cbf500 theyve asked me to do them as the bike shop plainly ripped them off. being usd rod yours will be cartridge apose to damper rods,the whole lot comes out the top  ;)

Took me three days! Lol but did make the tools etc lol

I just dont trust f*****ng garages anymore!
Hey Luke...got a pic of the tool(s) you made?
 I'll bring it up to you to do! ;D
 
 Been discussing with a mate at work what I should do about the engine leak....
 The recon guy says he will pay for the bits I used  . Im taking that to mean ,the seal,the speedy sleeve and the eng/gbox oil..about £75 I reckon.
 Should I just take the money and walk away? (he'll probably argue about the amount ).this could leave me open to an expensive crank replacement and or re grind etc later on
  ..OR ..should I push him to replace the crank and re grind etc etc.This would mean loss of the trike for a couple of weeks minimum  TBH and I would lose the £75 .Either way I feel Im between a rock and a hard place. Just want to ride the thing,not waste another load of time ,plus I feel I just cant keep pumping wonga in to this!
 All opinions appreciated ! (even ones I dont want to hear! ;D)

As in skywalker? Lol

Rod , did you fill in the scores prior to fitting the Speedi sleeve ? .
.
Personally , I would just ride it all summer and put thousands of miles on it  ;D ;D.
I take it that the leak is showing from the bottom front of the gearbox where the bell housing joins onto the engine ?
There is a notch at the bottom of the box so why not just make up a very small , easily removable , catchment tray with some absorbent material inside and fix it to the engine plate  .
.
.

Purely personal opinion -get out there & put some miles on it before you lose all enthusiasm for it.
For me, the whole point of a hardtail Reliant trike is it's basicness -that's what makes it fun to ride. They leak a bit, they rattle a bit -but they go on forever.
Fix what you need to & learn to live with the rest.

a speedi sleeve should last the engines whole life, usually they are harder wearing than the parent metal,
if its still leaking its ether a bad fit (unlikely) or a bad seal, did u fill the grind marks up before fitting as fifer said?
did you bearing seal it?it helps if its real bad...
the decision of what u wanna do is up to u though,
personally
id drill a hole in the bell housing and run it, provided the clutch doesnt get any oil on it, think of it as a self changing oil system ;D

fork seals,
 i only use original seals , check to see if  the stanchions are worn (you,l see it) ,after that its bush replacement time,,

Favourite trick for fixing rust pitted fork stanchions was always to fill the pitts with Araldite glue, then gently sand it smooth. Fit rubber fork gaitors to hide any leaks! I always assumed the slot in the bottom of the gearbox bellhousing was an oil drainage hole  :)
I'd never advocate riding something unroadworthy, but I reckon you're over-thinking it all a bit Rod. Ride it & enjoy it before you build all the fun out of it.  ;)

ITS NOT LEAKING  ::) ::) ::) its just marking its territery ;) ;)

it fills up with water if its blocked, dont ask me how i know :(

HOW DO YOU KNOW???????

a 3 wheeler, and a water crossing in denmark 10 yr ago,

I didnt fill the grind mark,but I followed the instructions to the letter,including applying a sealer(instant gasket) before fitting the sleeve.Afterward I checked minutely for any imperfections in the surface. I also fitted a slightly narrower seal,which made the actual seal contact area slightly back from where the glitch was,and check measured everything ,literally about 10 times,to make sure it would clear the glitch(which was by now under the sleeve). I taped the end of the crank and oiled it to make sure the seal didnt snag as it went on. There used to be a product called 'wellseal' or summat which we used to use to seal the join twixt seal and housing,but I didnt think it was necessary TBH,as the metal on the outside rim was covered in rubber anyway .maybe its coming from there? Hey Ho,I know I should really go out and ride it,and I do realise its a bit ott,but now the problem is implanted in me brain........... ;D ;D

Aaaaaaarrrgggghhhh!.....frustrating waiting for the bits to do my suzuki front suspension. Still waiting for some bushes for them! Been a while now,need to ride the beast!

Stop faffing about Rod! I want to see it on the road now!

just fill the fork legs with old socks bash um back together and let the front tyre down a bit........ :D

Yeah, that's why people come here -good quality engineering advice.

I get my socks from Tesco , would those do or do I need Marks & Sparks socks ?
Also,I need to know if my plain socks are suitable or would patterned ones be better ?
I have just been informed that I can get lots in something called a sock et set from some place named Halfords ???
The only thing that is putting me off buying aforementioned sock et set from some place named Halfords is the fact that apparently I have to have a rats**t in the box  ::)
Pretty unhygienic I would have thought ?

.
As for letting the front tyre down , do you think if I told the tyre that I was going to take it ballroom dancing and the did not turn up that it would be let down enough ?
.
Yours sincerely ,
Stu Pitt
.

 :D :D :D ;D ;D ;D :D :D :D pmsl,,nice one fifer

Ballroom dancing! Put a sock-init :)

Fifer ,you just gotta stop doubling up on your daily meds dose mate!! Look at the tab sizes dude,are they 200mg or 400mg?.........See a doctor,or put a sock in it! ;D ;D ;D

lol, I have a pair of F1 socks, would those give me race tuned suspension?

Now what you want is. Good old Army socks. this will give your forks  an all terrain vehicle fill . so your fork seals will last longer.
sorted  ;D

Im confused(as usual)...so if I use trainer socks..............will that make me a novice?

so this is getting interesting,,,,,,,


what would happen  if you used a ------------------------- wind sock   ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) :o :o :o :o :o

rossi and the like swear by argiles  ;)

...and if I use football socks...............will I be talking balls?

Don't suspenders go in suspension?  ???

Do you need to wear Pop socks for certain cars ?

....and who was Soc(k) ratese? Some philosopher geezer?

'Darn it '  a sock thread ..... I'll have to stay on my toes with this one , dont want to put my foot in it  ...


  ..  Hagar  ..   ;D

Back on track.......
 Heres the panniers I made,now mounted........
 Lids hinged at the front with a prop fitted inside to hold them open,and locks fitted to secure them.
 Ive already got them loaded with stuff!
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/daddd.jpg)

And heres the water temp and oil pressure gauges in progress.....
 Used two pods to mount the gauges in.(tow ball covers !)
 Used a modified brake banjo to fix the bottom end of oil pipe to the 't' piece .The tubing is stainless covered plastic brake tube,seems to be the same id as the oil pipe from memory. Could be wrong,but I guessed that I would be making more than 40/50 psi on tick over? Possibly low due to restriction of the banjo fitting and/or pipe,which looks neat,but may not be the right thing for an oil gauge?
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/535156_226808084088439_100002777480836_282599_37203636_n.jpg)

looks nice that rod really neet too, love them panniers i can see a pair being made at some point for our camping holiday this year ;)  whats that cooler round the oil filter been looking for one with no joy??

Its a piece of flexy gas tube for big industrial set ups. Had a long piece of it,but decided not to keep the rest. Realise now I should have,I was so stupid to throw it out!
 Someone on here (Steve Brock I think) gave me a link to some cheap panniers,that look good.My ones took days to make,and as usual with this one off malarkey as soon as theyre done you can see an improvement you should have incorporated!
 
 What oil pressure is yours making Luke?
 

Tow ball covers -that's a great idea!

At the end of the day , He is heard to say "I stink, therefore I am"

The oil cap.. What have you used ? Yes a Jinlun 125 panniers :)

fifer enlightened me on this as i asked the same ?    he said between 15-30 idle 50-70ish running
mines between 15-20 at idle up to 55-60 holding at constant revs, havnt had a good fast run since if fitted it, harder to read at idle she vibrates the needle a tad :D         
whats your making different gauges mite differ readings but interesting as we both had a new engine hidden by an old block/cylinder head our reading shouldnt be to different ;)

Oil pressure will vary even on a rebuilt engine  :(  due to the fact that the oil pressure relief valve is normally never looked at on a rebuild .
Also depends on whether you have a much older engine with the separate ball , spring  and seat .
These were often replced by the newer one piece cartridge type .
However , the success of the newer oil pressure relief valve was often dependant on how the bush/seat was removed from the block .
Sometimes the block bore was scored and this let oil past the sealing " O " ring on the newer cartridge oil pressure relief valve ,
.
On most of the engines used where the newer cartridge oil pressure relief valve was fitted as standard it is possible to nick the very thin sealing " O " ring on insertion of the cartridge .

Slight wear/tension on the internal cartridge spring also comes into play between different cartidges .
.
Tickover differences of 50 to 100 revs can also alter the reading .

If you have 40 to 50 psi at tickover keep a close eye on the reading at higher revs  as you might blow the connecting plastic tubes off {  if fitted }
Personally I do not fit the oil pressure gauge to any of my Reliants due to the chance that the tubes might blow and you loose the oil pressure .
I go by the electrical switch putting the light out .


.
Right , I am away to bed now to dream of the Torrey Canyon  ;D ;D .
.
.

Thanks to Fifer and all.
 I thought you had asked about oil pressure,but couldnt find the post Luke!
 
  So............ after making a new cover plate for the petrol pump hole this morning( The first one I made was about 2mm stainless and kept weeping oil). The studs arent central to the plate and I think the plate was twisted and wouldnt sit flat.Now Ive carved a lump of 6 mm aly plate to fit,and instead of a normal gasket and hermetite,Ive used instant gasket.All that hacksawing on a big lump of aly plate soon got the family roused at 8.30 this morning!
  Just noticed the exhaust tail pipe is a bit sooty(I'll go sweep that off!) Did I really say that ..here we go again !Anyways,Im going to have a read up on it and then go out and fiddle with the mixture now
              Rod

Ooooh ! Just realised Ive got to warm the engine to do this,so an excuse to go out for a blatt!             

my exhaust is full of soot from the blow up, i was going to take the whole system off and jet wash it, mainly in mine  think its the dried oil as that goes sooty,

The oil cap is an old flip cap bike one Ive had for around 30 years. It came off a aly bike tank. Unscrewed at the neck. I made an adaptor for it to fit the Reliant oil cap,then blocked the breather hole in the top of the Relaint one,and drilled a new hole in the side.It doesnt work as a flip cap anymore,just comes off complete with the Relaint one sort of partially inside it.

Thanks Trev.

The trike rode well to Trikefest and back,no major probs. Cos Im running in the engine,kept to a steady 40/45 mph and a couple of blasts up to 50mph. The main problem arising from the journey (apart from the appalingly bumpy road between Mildenhall and Littleport! ;D)was the rear seat space( depth). I found myself moving too far forward on the front seat to accomodate, as we went over bumps SWMBO tended to move/slip forward on the seat . I think it needs some work. So Ive removed the rear seat , tank and rack,and re mounted the tank about 3" further to the rear. The seat and rack will all move the same amount backward,this should give more room to the rear passenger,and I'll also tilt the seat squab a bit lower at the rear.  Im also going to build 2 small arm rests either side ,and make them height adjustable. The wider gap between the front/rear seats will accomodate a upside down 'U' shape for a front seat backrest/come grab rail for the passenger,with a built in storage area. Im going to make this adjustable to be able to tilt it slightly back and forth to get the best position for me ,as well as the pillion passenger.
  Another problem that was evident was the 'floorboards' ,they need to be wider for the passenger,so this week I'll extend them and get them TIG'd together.Trying to get all this done by the end of the week,cos if the weather holds we may have a couple of days meandering round the Kent or Essex coast.

Rod , I am glad that you are finally getting out and about and reaping the fruits of your labour  ; enjoy :)
.
.

Down to the fine adjustments now then Rod. I once saw a car seat headrest used as a trike backrest -height adjustable, weather proof, (it was one of those rigid plastic ones with the open centre, maybe Metro), & suprisingly comfortable.
Time to start clocking up those miles of smiles.  ;D

Thanks Pete.
Head rest is a good idea,but not enuf room.Now maybe if I.....then I .........NO NO NO! ;D

 Got to get all refinements sorted or else"they" wont come out with me!

 Re doing this rear end is like going back to the build stages...but this time I know when its done I can just flick that switch and ride it!

your point being?

The old Volvo's had plastic head rests about 2 inches thick didn't they?

So with all the mods now done,and primed in red oxide for now just in case I need to tweak them a bit,Im hoping to get out today for a run to check them out.Pics later.

Ooh, ooh! Baggsy the pillion seat!

This pic shows the work Ive done to raise the rear seat and to incorporate a backrest for the 'steerer'(!)
 I made it all adjustable to tweak it if needed ,then paint it when finally done.  I pulled it all apart again today to add the 2 hand steady bars,and also make the front backrest panel tilt forward,as SWMBO couldnt get her little legs and trotters over the top of it ::) :o! It now tilts forward ,and eventually will be held vertical by one of those powerful magnet molybenum thingys.I m going to upholster the panel later. I will cover the gubbins below the seat at a later date.Had trouble with the welding,as can only use one eye at present!                                            
 (http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/daddddd.png)
 This shows how it tilts...

(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/d.png)
 The rest are just lil ole me!............

(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/dd.png)

(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/DADD.png)

(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/HJody92/DAD1-1.png)

Lookin' good Rod.  ;D
Shows how low it sits. Looks like a very rideable machine -I could imagine clocking up some serious mileage on that.
I had to adapt my last trike with similar passenger grab handles -I don't think my girlfriend at the time could've actually toppled off, but they made her feel more secure, so worth doing.

All the screaming/swearing effort is worth it in the end  ;) :)

that does look the part rod havnt seen full daylight pics before, i think i need simlar to your front seat just a small rest, i sliped back abit on a little drive yestarday and struggle to pull meself forwards again with the one powered arm whilst steering,

Top job fella  ;D

Thanks .
 Luke...the backrest has made a hell of a difference from comfort point of view.I attached the backrest pad so that it swivels horizontally so that it fits the angle of my back whether Im sitting upright or slouching down.From my experiments Ive found that it will only need minimal padding as it always stays flat to your back without creating a pressure point like the hoop type fixed backrests do.Tried mine with just the hoop and it caned one point on my back! The hoop also serves as a hold on point for the pillion,but SWMBO and everyone else who has sat or rode on the back all say it could do with a grab handle on each side ,hence why I put them on.(maybe better for your daughter to feel more secure?
 I realise ,of course ,you have to stop adding all these attachments,but I feel the tweaking stuff Ive added is worthwhile as Im hoping to cruise the hell out of this on the continent next year! and Ive tried to blend them in a bit with the theme. Hoping to get the whole lot of upholstery re done maybe early next year.

Worth taking the time to experiment isn't it Rod. Can make the difference between a short distance "bar hopper" & a long distance tourer.

Yep,tis true Andy.

A bit long winded,but bear with me...................
      So,this trike is doin' me 'ead in! :-\ After several different versions of the rear seat to try to make it safer,and less hard (oo er!) I still aint sorted it! Went to Chelmsford to get some leather cloth today,daughter on the back.The road was bumpy as **ck and when we got back home she said that as we went over a particularly bad pothole(I didnt see it ,but dodged loads of others) she slipped side ways and nearly came off the seat!Shes a 20 yr old adult,not a child. Now that aint good,and my wife joined the discussion about the seat,and the safety thing. Cutting to the chase,swmbo aint happy about the safety thing and riding on the rear seat,although she has been on there a few times. This puts me in a huge dilemna (sp?) about the whole triking lifestyle. Ive tried seriously hard to sort this ,but cant see a real solution after trying various ideas.Ive got one last idea,which is to build a frame round the seat,so that it looks like a corbeau type bucket seat that has had the back chopped off about half way up.The seat squab will be the existing sprung seat,allowed to move on the springs,and the upholstered sides will be stationary,fixed to the trike frame.Trouble is with all these'add on' designs is that they start to make the trike 'rat look',and I dont want that.Can anyone throw any comments/ ideas at this? (apart from ,as a guy at work said "whats wrong with the train for your missus"!! ;D)
  Also,is there really much difference twixt hard and softail on a trike? Seems to me that the suspension wouldnt move much anyway.
  If I cant sort it I will sell it and build /buy a softail summat or other.She was quite impressed with the Beach B'stards we saw at trike fest. I wonder how they ride?