RODS build........

[ROD]

Still too cold to mess around in the garage ,so havent done anything for a while!Getting bogged down with the mudguards.

[ROD]

Been gradually doing bits and pieces to the rear guards over the last few weeks,seem to have lost my Mojo at the moment. Finally made some headway with the guards today!

[Manky Monkey]

I lost my Mojo for a while. Finally found it in a cardboard box at the back of the shed.
Show us your progress then Rod. 

[RODeo]

Mojo now back and Im really in to this again!.....
  I want to fit a towbar to tow a very lightweight camping trailer...been pondering....
  I have the "standard" manky axle location brackets to attach the rear end. The clamp round the axle tube is welded to it. I've been thinking that I could weld a tube from the rear of one bracket,turn 90 degrees running parrallel to the axle tubes, across behind the dif to the other side ,90 degrees then weld to the other bracket . I think Andy did this when fitting a number plate holder ?But obviously theres a lot more strength reqd in a towbar.I am going to use 12mm dia bolts to attach the two halves of the axle clamps. Im wondering whether there will be enuf strength in the bolts (4 per side) to take the 'pull' of  a trailer?I will add gussets to the tube to axle bracket connection.Using this set up will mean that if I ever have to change the axle it will come out easily rather than attach the towbar tube to the frame ,which would mean the space is fixed .
      Any comments/ideas appreciated.
             
               Rod
 

[tbone]

Sounds fine to me mate, especially when you consider what is used to hold a standard 50mm towball on to most tow bars  .

[RODeo]

Thanx TB . Im also worried about the leverage created by the  distance out from the axle bracket ..I guess about 10" or so,to allow the cross tube to clear the back of the diff? Im also thinking about fitting a removable tube or piece of flat bolted to  a bar under the seat ,bent downward to follow the contour of the top of the diff ,and welded of bolted to the towbar at the centre ,to form a sort of triangulated fixing for the hitch.
   Im going to try a vertical pin about 25mm diameter ,as I mentioned in a prev. post.Then use a good quality rose joint on the trailer. The trailer frame will be a very basic braced 'T' shape with a car top box mounted on it,and using small trailer wheels and indespension units..Just big enuf to hold a tent etc.
   
      Rod

[Manky Monkey]

I always fancied one of those car roof boxes as a long, low, sleek looking trike trailer, but because I don't do the C word, (camping), I haven't really got a use for one.
I reckon the bumper bar/tow hitch mount would be plenty strong enough for a small fibreglass trailer. You could always make up a second set of axle clamp halves & run without the bumper for normal use, then swap them over when you go camping.

[RODeo]

Second set of clamps not a bad idea Andy,but ...
 a) I wouldnt be arsed to keep swapping over
  b) The axle half of the clamp is welded to the axle now!I did make them bolt on originally,but decided to weld instead.
 
  Altho' the tow bar is taking up build time,I decided to fit it at this stage ,cos its easier while the frame is in a 'raw' state.
  Well guys,thanx for the words of wisdom,I now feel confident to sort it.Im off to look for a decent quality rose joint.........
             Rod

[RODeo]

Got the whole trike now stripped down to the bare frame ,all the bits boxed and labelled. Set up a bench for the engine tart up .Started making up a spit to mount the chassis on to allow easy access to all the areas for welding/filling/paint.Should make it easier to manouver,so I think its worth the time cobbling something together.I estimate about a month to prep and maybe paint the frame,will work on the engine in between as well.Engine is having all stainless bolts/nuts,some new gaskets,a s/steel rocker cover and s/s cover for the sump.Plus repaint etc.

[Manky Monkey]

You're making new rocker cover & sump? I'd be interested to see them Rod. Got any piccies of your frame jig?
I've got a couple of weeks off work next month & thinking I might use the time to get stuck into my own trike, which is languishing in a barn, & finally get it finished -so I need some inspiration from my fellow builders.

[gpz]

im with Manky on that one, would be intrested to see both the frame jig and s/s rocker cover and sump r u making theese yourself or r u buying them

[RODeo]

Will get pics,but at the moment this computer seems to be so slow that its steam powered ! Cant load them until tamara.
  Its not a frame JIG ,its a spit to rotate the frame . I built it of whatever I had lying around in the garden ,so dont expect an engineering masterpiece! Finishing it today ,hope it works! Its only gotta last for one application anyway!

[RODeo]

 Top 2 pics are the way I connected it to the scaff pole.
 Bottom pic shows the stand for one end of the spit.
 The other end utilises a metal dustbin ,which has a tripod bolted to the top,with a piece of 2x2 angle sitting as a 'v' which the pole rotates on!
 As I said ,all heath robinson ,from what I had laying around,but it works! I use a  lump of ally angle as a prop under the chassis to the floor to hold it at various angles as I work on it. I proved its stability when the prop slipped,and as I previously had made an escape plan ,I dived for the garage door ! It never tipped over !

[Manky Monkey]

All the years I've been lugging frames around, turning them over & over on the floor, having to crawl about on my knees to weld everything up, why has that never occured to me?! Lift it up to a sensible working height & rotate it. Genius!

[RODeo]

I think a build table is a good idea ,to work off the ground,and also to use the table as reference point for getting things true,but I like to be able to look at the trike from the angle it would normally be viewed at when on the ground,to get an idea of what looks right.(not that Im a good judge of trike looks,having never built one before )
  Before I stripped the trike down and put it on the 'spit' I made a note of where any last brackets etc had to go .Its certainly a lot easier to work at waist height,and allows you to have a good view of any imperfections etc  that could affect the overall finish ,but having said that,even after a couple of days work prepping I'm finding you can go a bit too far with it due to every angle and nook and cranny being visible!