Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

[minimutly]

Is that a reverse gear on the shaft I see?
I welded up the shaft, it seems to spin true without any wobble, guess I'll try it.
Thanks,
Huw

[BikerGran]

mmm, very interesting, you have no swivel at the diff end at all, and no slider since this was at the back. I wonder if the locating pin has been removed?

No idea about locating pin, I wasn't the builder.  The shafts line up just about perfectly as the axle is shortened.

Did you sell her BG?

Nope, but I'm still debating as I haven't used her much - still, hopefully we have a proper summer to come.  If someone madev me an offer I couldn't refuse I might - but it's not likely in these hard times.  And I do love her!

[minimutly]

Master cylinder/pedal box thing:-

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

[minimutly]

From behind:-

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

[minimutly]

In the frame:-

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

The propshafts old and new:

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

Back axle, short tube:-

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

The long one is pretty similar....
All the best,
Huw

[minimutly]

Damnit all why does photobucket insist on turning all my pics into portrait?
Anyway, shiney bits came today:-

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

Motad 4 into 1.

As suspected, there looks to be a clash with the master cylinder/pedal pivot, but I won't be certain until I bolt everything up. The headers are slightly smaller diameter (they were from a gpz550), but since I won't be extracting the last percentage of rpm out of the old 750, that shouldn't cause a problem - in fact it might improve mid range since it's a 4 into 1?
I'm planning a cut and shut, extending the system, using some thin wall 2 inch stainless milk pipe, anyone bent this stuff? Sand and a propane torch?
All the best, Huw

[Manky Monkey]

I ran Motads on my XS750s, as well as my XS850 & XS1100. Nice systems & seemed to give the best aftermarket pipe performance.

[minimutly]

It's time to sort my axle out properly, that means setting the diff pre-load and backlash. Thanks Fifer for the reliant instructions, the gist of which are that reliant use dummy bearings, setting tools that mount on the backplate flanges, and a dummy pinion. Now while all this is possible to replicate, it seems kind of a lot of work for one axle.
My thoughts are that I could re-set the pre-load to something sane (if I recall I measured some 26 thou), then check ther's "a little" backlash and hope for the best. The difficult bit is removing and refitting the diff side bearings every time I need to change shims, bolt up the casing, and remeasure - kind of slow work.
Unless someone has any other suggestions?
Huw

[BikerGran]

Now bearing in mind that I've never built anything and don't really know what you're on about........

When my trike was built the builder sourced a reliant axle., shortened it, and built the trike.  Why does all that other stuff need doing?

[minimutly]

Shortening the axle is easy (relatively), just shorten and reassemble.  If you change the diff inside the casing you have to set the bearing preload - I suspect mine had been changed at some point omitting this task. Also, you have to ensure the pinion meshes at the correct point on the crownwheel (it's a bevel gear so in/out as well as left/right is important). My pinion has worn to hell on one side, it still works, but how much extra drag it puts on who knows. So I bought a 2nd hand crownwheel and pinion to fit my diff, which as I started off with is over (pre)loaded between the casings.
Guessing all this is not good, but there is some paint out there which you can use to tell/tale the contact patch, I just need to find it. Some more research required I think.
Thanks,
Huw

[terry t]

Is that a reverse gear on the shaft I see?
I welded up the shaft, it seems to spin true without any wobble, guess I'll try it.
Thanks,
Huw

It was yes

[BikerGran]

If you change the diff inside the casing you have to set the bearing preload - I suspect mine had been changed at some point omitting this task. Also, you have to ensure the pinion meshes at the correct point on the crownwheel (it's a bevel gear so in/out as well as left/right is important). My pinion has worn to hell on one side, it still works, but how much extra drag it puts on who knows. So I bought a 2nd hand crownwheel and pinion to fit my diff, which as I started off with is over (pre)loaded between the casings.

Ah I see, thanks for that!

there is some paint out there which you can use to tell/tale the contact patch, I just need to find it. Some more research required I think.

Now that I CAN help with - I think this is what you're after...  "Engineer's Blue"

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Miscellaneous-Tin-of-Micrometer-Blue/dp/B005LV1YVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400617958&sr=8-1&keywords=engineers+blue

[minimutly]

I bought a gt 550 motad 4 into 1, assuming it would fit. We'll surprise surprise it didn't. So it came down to buying another and selling mine on, or lengthening my down pipes. Being a tight fisted git I decided to go for it with the thin discs.
The result, I had to lengthen the two near side tubes. Used some stainless pipe, slotted, drilled and welded through. It looks ok, I must say, pics tomorrow. I also found some Astra 16v front pipe which has the necessary kink to pass the brake master cylinder. More stainless welding tomorrow then...
Huw

[BikerGran]

A lot of people think the 550 and 750 have more in common than they do - even ther frame is different!

[minimutly]

nice chrome 550 headers:

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

See the lengthening tubes ?:

Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

Now to finish the axle.
All the best,
Huw