minimutly
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« Reply #105 on: May 14, 2014, 07:19:49 PM » |
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Is that a reverse gear on the shaft I see? I welded up the shaft, it seems to spin true without any wobble, guess I'll try it. Thanks, Huw
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BikerGran
Hero Member
Karma: 94
Posts: 10604
Gran Turismo
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« Reply #106 on: May 14, 2014, 09:09:42 PM » |
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mmm, very interesting, you have no swivel at the diff end at all, and no slider since this was at the back. I wonder if the locating pin has been removed? No idea about locating pin, I wasn't the builder. The shafts line up just about perfectly as the axle is shortened. Did you sell her BG?
Nope, but I'm still debating as I haven't used her much - still, hopefully we have a proper summer to come. If someone madev me an offer I couldn't refuse I might - but it's not likely in these hard times. And I do love her!
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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minimutly
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« Reply #107 on: May 14, 2014, 10:20:44 PM » |
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Master cylinder/pedal box thing:- Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)
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« Last Edit: May 14, 2014, 10:36:09 PM by minimutly »
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minimutly
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« Reply #108 on: May 14, 2014, 10:28:16 PM » |
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From behind:- Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)
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minimutly
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« Reply #109 on: May 14, 2014, 10:34:40 PM » |
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In the frame:- Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios) The propshafts old and new: Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios) Back axle, short tube:- Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios) The long one is pretty similar.... All the best, Huw
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minimutly
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« Reply #110 on: May 16, 2014, 06:24:08 PM » |
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Damnit all why does photobucket insist on turning all my pics into portrait? Anyway, shiney bits came today:- Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios) Motad 4 into 1. As suspected, there looks to be a clash with the master cylinder/pedal pivot, but I won't be certain until I bolt everything up. The headers are slightly smaller diameter (they were from a gpz550), but since I won't be extracting the last percentage of rpm out of the old 750, that shouldn't cause a problem - in fact it might improve mid range since it's a 4 into 1? I'm planning a cut and shut, extending the system, using some thin wall 2 inch stainless milk pipe, anyone bent this stuff? Sand and a propane torch? All the best, Huw
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
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« Reply #111 on: May 16, 2014, 09:12:33 PM » |
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I ran Motads on my XS750s, as well as my XS850 & XS1100. Nice systems & seemed to give the best aftermarket pipe performance.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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minimutly
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« Reply #112 on: May 18, 2014, 10:08:51 PM » |
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It's time to sort my axle out properly, that means setting the diff pre-load and backlash. Thanks Fifer for the reliant instructions, the gist of which are that reliant use dummy bearings, setting tools that mount on the backplate flanges, and a dummy pinion. Now while all this is possible to replicate, it seems kind of a lot of work for one axle. My thoughts are that I could re-set the pre-load to something sane (if I recall I measured some 26 thou), then check ther's "a little" backlash and hope for the best. The difficult bit is removing and refitting the diff side bearings every time I need to change shims, bolt up the casing, and remeasure - kind of slow work. Unless someone has any other suggestions? Huw
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BikerGran
Hero Member
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Posts: 10604
Gran Turismo
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« Reply #113 on: May 20, 2014, 10:54:04 AM » |
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Now bearing in mind that I've never built anything and don't really know what you're on about........
When my trike was built the builder sourced a reliant axle., shortened it, and built the trike. Why does all that other stuff need doing?
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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minimutly
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« Reply #114 on: May 20, 2014, 03:55:57 PM » |
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Shortening the axle is easy (relatively), just shorten and reassemble. If you change the diff inside the casing you have to set the bearing preload - I suspect mine had been changed at some point omitting this task. Also, you have to ensure the pinion meshes at the correct point on the crownwheel (it's a bevel gear so in/out as well as left/right is important). My pinion has worn to hell on one side, it still works, but how much extra drag it puts on who knows. So I bought a 2nd hand crownwheel and pinion to fit my diff, which as I started off with is over (pre)loaded between the casings. Guessing all this is not good, but there is some paint out there which you can use to tell/tale the contact patch, I just need to find it. Some more research required I think. Thanks, Huw
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terry t
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« Reply #115 on: May 20, 2014, 04:52:28 PM » |
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Is that a reverse gear on the shaft I see? I welded up the shaft, it seems to spin true without any wobble, guess I'll try it. Thanks, Huw
It was yes
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BikerGran
Hero Member
Karma: 94
Posts: 10604
Gran Turismo
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« Reply #116 on: May 20, 2014, 08:35:29 PM » |
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If you change the diff inside the casing you have to set the bearing preload - I suspect mine had been changed at some point omitting this task. Also, you have to ensure the pinion meshes at the correct point on the crownwheel (it's a bevel gear so in/out as well as left/right is important). My pinion has worn to hell on one side, it still works, but how much extra drag it puts on who knows. So I bought a 2nd hand crownwheel and pinion to fit my diff, which as I started off with is over (pre)loaded between the casings. Ah I see, thanks for that! there is some paint out there which you can use to tell/tale the contact patch, I just need to find it. Some more research required I think. Now that I CAN help with - I think this is what you're after... "Engineer's Blue" http://www.amazon.co.uk/Miscellaneous-Tin-of-Micrometer-Blue/dp/B005LV1YVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400617958&sr=8-1&keywords=engineers+blue
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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minimutly
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« Reply #117 on: May 24, 2014, 10:11:23 PM » |
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I bought a gt 550 motad 4 into 1, assuming it would fit. We'll surprise surprise it didn't. So it came down to buying another and selling mine on, or lengthening my down pipes. Being a tight fisted git I decided to go for it with the thin discs. The result, I had to lengthen the two near side tubes. Used some stainless pipe, slotted, drilled and welded through. It looks ok, I must say, pics tomorrow. I also found some Astra 16v front pipe which has the necessary kink to pass the brake master cylinder. More stainless welding tomorrow then... Huw
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BikerGran
Hero Member
Karma: 94
Posts: 10604
Gran Turismo
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« Reply #118 on: May 24, 2014, 10:47:32 PM » |
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A lot of people think the 550 and 750 have more in common than they do - even ther frame is different!
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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minimutly
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« Reply #119 on: May 25, 2014, 07:26:50 PM » |
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nice chrome 550 headers: Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios) See the lengthening tubes ?: Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios) Now to finish the axle. All the best, Huw
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