Reliant "B" Axle info

[trikerpete]

Just incase any wants to know :-

The OUTER BEARING on halfshaft is a 6305-2RS-C3/SKF (25mm bore x 62mm o/d x 17mm thick)
The OUTER OIL SEAL is an OS20015025R21/U/M (1+1/2" bore x 2" o/d x 1/4" thick)

I bought the above from www.hendersonbearings.com (£10.45 each for bearing & £2.20each for oil seal)

NOTE: "A" axle bearings are different sizes to the "B" axle!!!! Not sure if oil seals sizes differ?

[trikerpete]

Thanks Andy. I hope someone finds this usefull.

Has anyone got any info for the bearings/seals on the "A" axle??

[trikerpete]

iv just brought a set from reliant world for A axle

well dont forget to tell us dimensions & part numbers !!

[trikerpete]

if i prod you a bit more you may even tell us prices

please feel free to start a new topic for reliant "A" axle info & parts etc 

[trikerpete]

merv
Full Member

Hi Pete
How much did those tubes cost you including having them turned down, also how do the wheel end bits fit onto the new tubes.
What you have done is what i like to do if its not to hard.
Makes the axle look sharp
 
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steve brock
Full Member

When you replace the tubes how's the flange come off ?
  
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trikerpete
Hero Member



First I took photos of various parts of the axle, too make sure it went back together the same way. Then after splitting the axle in half (also remove the 8 studs) and removing the crown wheel & pinon, I drilled out the rivets holding the old tubes to the alloy diff housing then drifted (carefully hammered) the old tubes out of the alloy housing. I was going to heat it in oven, but couldnt get half an axle inside. With the old tubes now parted from the alloy diff housing I made a basic jig, mainly to get the exact overall length when remaking the tubes. The new tubes were 2&1/4" o/d x 1/4" wall thickness seamless mild steel, 1 end of each new tube was machined down to the same as the old one for pattern, for a length of 65mm. After cutting off the hub bearing carrier
from the old tubes, they were then welded (in the jig) onto the non machined end of the appropriate length of new tube. To fit the new tubes into the alloy diff housing I cooked the alloy diff housings in the oven for about 30mins, make sure they are grease/oil free or im pretty sure you will be smoked out of the kitchen. While parts are cooking in oven, get sturdy flat bit of wood and place on solid ground/concrete. After parts are well cooked carefully place, one at a time, on the wood so that it inline with the new tube and using big hammer and another piece of wood proceed to drift new tube into place, this should easily drop into position. Before new tubes are fitted make sure you file/machine a "leading edge" onto the machined end, this will enable the tube to slide into the alloy diff housing easier. Also make sure that the "flat face" around the hub bearing carrier is in alignment with the propshaft coupling, this is important if you are doing a disc brake conversion. When all parts have cooled down you will need to drill & tap through the original rivet holes, I used m8 bolts after checking what length was needed so they dont tighten down onto the halfshafts. Final job was to drill hole and weld on a short length of 10mm o/d tube for a small K & N type breather. The cost of new tube & machining was £20 per side at my local machine shop.

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steve brock
Full member

Ah bum now I'm thinking of doing tha same! ummm how'd I rub the powder coating off?
  
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trikerpete
Hero Member


Just thought I'd give update as i remember things. its an age thing  
The finished length of new axle tube, up too the outer face of the hub bearing carrier is 515mm, this includes the "65mm machined end". One other thing, at the opposite end to the "externally machined end" I also  machined an  "internall" recess of 30mm/+ so the existing hub bearing carrier (which should have about 30mm/- of old axle tube left on it) can be located centrally before welding together.  



  

[merv]

Hi Pete
Hope the brake parts were OK, i did give the wheel cylinders a drowning in wd40 to help getting the old brake line nuts out.
Back to the subject, you wouldn't half a picture of the jig you had the tube in would you and was it a normal but joint weld you use.Would MiG be suitable to do the job

Merv

[trikerpete]

Hi Merv
          Brake parts were fine, thank you.
All my welds are MIG. The jig was just a length of 2" angle, held by one side in vice, this gave a flat upper surface to lay the old axle tube on with the "flat" of the hub bearing carrier facing downward. With old axle tube now sat on the angle I placed a spacer under the diff end of tube so the tube was level. Next I just welded a short length (3 or 4") of 2" angle at each end with a flat face, squared off & butted upto the old axle tube.  When its done the old axle tube should be a nice tight fit into the jig. It was as simple as that.

[merv]

Thank's Pete
I still can't visualise the hub bearing carrier bit
i can be a little dim at times

[trikerpete]

  Maybe its my terminology........
"A" & "B" axles have inner "taper" bearings which are either side of the Diff/Crownwheel which the splined end of halfshaft fits into. At the other/outer end of halfshafts (near the road wheel) the "sealed" bearing, along with an oil seal, sit in the Hub Bearing Carrier. This is situated at the very outer edge of each axle tube, through which the halfshafts pass through on assembly.
Does that make sense?

Ahhh bugger, I'll find a picture

Its at the right hand side of picture, the "lump" (a technical term) on the end of axle tubes

[trikerpete]

Note the "FLAT" edge facing forward (to the left)  

[merv]

Hi Pete
there nothing wrong with your terminology 
it's me, i know what the Hub Bearing Carrier is . What i meant was i couldn't see how you kept the Hub Bearing Carrier square and straight to the tube for welding.
So it's my terminology

[trikerpete]

When I cut the hub bearing carrier off of the old axle tube, I did so right by the side of the original spring plate, this is the plate (+/- 150mm x 50mm) that the original leaf spring rests on, thereby leaving about a 20mm "stub" of the old axle tube attached to the hub bearing carrier. The 20mm stub can be "cleaned up" in a lathe right back the the where it joins the hub bearing carrier, when done machine the inside face of new axle tube to suit then slide the two parts together for welding.

I wish I had taken photos of everything now 

[merv]

Thanks Pete
I believe i can see the light
So, let's recap, one end of tube turned down on out side of tube to fit inside diff and at the other end turned
down on inside of tube to fit over stub left on hub carrier

[trikerpete]

By George he's got it 

[merv]

I told you i can be a little dim at times,
Thanks for hanging in there with your explanations Pete