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Author Topic: Reliant Disc brake conversion  (Read 240388 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #345 on: October 19, 2015, 09:03:02 PM »

I know Lunatic's selling a complete axle with disc conversion in the For Sale section -maybe ask him if he'll sell the disc set-up on it's own? Or buy the whole thing & be back on the road tomorrow?
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Hadfield_mike
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« Reply #346 on: October 19, 2015, 09:26:09 PM »

I'm only a set of carriers and callipers away from having it done. I just need to know if golf mk2 carriers are all that fits or if anybody has other options.
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BikerGran
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« Reply #347 on: October 19, 2015, 09:40:31 PM »

I really don't know why people insist on converting to disc - my trike uses the reliant drum brakes and stops with no problems!
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hunter
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« Reply #348 on: October 19, 2015, 09:46:17 PM »

Looks good.
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terry t
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« Reply #349 on: October 19, 2015, 09:56:39 PM »

I really don't know why people insist on converting to disc - my trike uses the reliant drum brakes and stops with no problems!
Same as me. on a gl1000 no problem stopping or the brake test for mot
trouble with doing a disc conversion is the master cylinder may not be man enough for the callipers. then you got to change that as well it could go on?
I will be using the reliant brake set up on my new gl1500 trike as well
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Hadfield_mike
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« Reply #350 on: October 20, 2015, 05:53:06 AM »

It's not just the looks that do it for me, although they do look good. The most important thing for me is better stopping performance. Drum brakes on the rear are just as good as disc brakes on the rear initially but once they get hot the performance drops dramatically. For all the weight in general is over the front wheel I often tow a small combi-camp trailer tent. It's not massively heavy but it does add weight and that weight isn't over the front wheel so the rears get hot under braking and it's noticeable. I've tried back brake only on the flat after a long run and the trike just keeps on rolling. When cool the rear drums can stop the trike on their own without an issue. Obviously I use the gears more than the brakes and on the road I use the front more than the back but for a test I've tried rear only before and after a run and there's a massive difference due to drums not being able to disperse the heat efficiently.
So for me looks are important but the biggest factor is brake efficiency.
I'm not even sure what rear master I've got but if that needs changing then that's next on this list. Front is twin discs and works fine. Engine braking on the old GL1100 is pretty good too. It's just the rears that are the weak link, especially with the trailer on, so that's my project at the moment. I'm new to trikes and new to this kind of work really but the information I'm finding on here is great. The only thing I'm stuck for is a tried and tested alternative to the golf mk2 carrier.
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terry t
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« Reply #351 on: October 20, 2015, 07:20:02 AM »

Have you looked at these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231503125949?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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Hadfield_mike
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« Reply #352 on: October 20, 2015, 08:26:00 AM »

Do they fit?  Has anybody used anything other than the original method of the mk2 golf carrier?  I'm hoping somebody has used different parts with some success so I'm not wasting money on the trial and error method.
I phoned VW and got a list of other cars that use the same part but was hoping on some advice on an alternative part that others have used.
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hunter
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« Reply #353 on: October 20, 2015, 11:32:08 PM »

If you look at the link Terry has posted,
Look at compatability page 8,Suitable for MK11 golf.
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Hadfield_mike
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« Reply #354 on: October 21, 2015, 09:52:21 AM »

I've gave up on the hunt for mk2 golf carriers. Couldn't find any anywhere. Local VW dealer gave me a list of cars that use the same carrier. One of them was an Audi 100 and I managed to get a pair of carriers from one. Had a quick trial fit last night after scrubbing them up and it's too tight on the disc. Could be just the build up of rust etc over the years so going to use the dremmel tonight to really clean the inside out. It's a close fit already so won't need a lot to get the disc spinning through the carrier. The carriers came with a set of mk2 golf callipers so a bit of a bonus there as somebody at the breakers had just upgraded from mk2 to mk4 callipers. Hopefully tonight I'll have one side fitted up and looking right. Then I'll strip down again to do the full clean up and paint. This is my first project so everything seems to be a learning curve.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #355 on: October 21, 2015, 06:09:12 PM »

Loony & I were chatting recently about the feasibilty of making your own carriers from flat plate. Maybe several pieces welded together. They could be made with integral adaptors to bolt onto the axle in one piece. Possible?
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spanners
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« Reply #356 on: October 21, 2015, 07:10:53 PM »

Loony & I were chatting recently about the feasibilty of making your own carriers from flat plate. Maybe several pieces welded together. They could be made with integral adaptors to bolt onto the axle in one piece. Possible?

yep.. feasable,,  seen it done using sierra calipers aswell , but you are limited to the size of wheels you can use as the caliper tends to rub the inside of the rim..
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Hadfield_mike
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« Reply #357 on: October 21, 2015, 08:04:26 PM »

Has anybody had any issues getting the disc to sit true against the hub? I'm assuming the hub is fine and it's misalignment in the disc but it's got a slight wobble to it so it catches on the carrier at one point of the turn. Other than than the Audi 100 carriers fit nicely on the standard template plates. I had to put a couple of washers between the plate and the carrier but not sure if that's due to the carrier being different to the intended mk2 golf or if it's because the plate is only 5mm thick.
It all fits now. Just got to find a way to level up the disc so it spins true and then get the mk2 callipers I've got wound back.
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terry t
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« Reply #358 on: October 21, 2015, 10:18:16 PM »

Could be the shaft is bent is the disc sitting hard back on the hub.put the wheel on and re check to see if there is any wobble
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spanners
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« Reply #359 on: October 21, 2015, 10:41:32 PM »

flange not sat on taper and key correctly ,,

or hub bent due to undue force being used when removing it from the shaft
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