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Author Topic: rover distributor  (Read 17820 times)
terry t
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« on: April 10, 2011, 10:14:27 PM »

do any one know what type of distributor this is 9 or 12volts it on Andy's pop.it is electronic ignition.we think its a Lucas and the only number i can see with out taking it of is i think 416738. and it has two vacuum take ofs


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cunningplan
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« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2011, 10:28:48 PM »

do any one know what type of distributor this is 9 or 12volts it on Andy's pop.it is electronic ignition.we think its a Lucas and the only number i can see with out taking it of is i think 416738. and it has two vacuum take ofs




12 volt electronic (Dont use a points coil) its only the points dizzys that can use a 9 volt coil.
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terry t
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« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2011, 10:38:12 PM »

thats what we thought. just checking mallory distributor for rover v8 electronic comes with ballast resistor
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2011, 10:58:06 PM »

"Don't use a points coil" -?
We've got just an average 12 volt jobbie, as sold by most auto factors. So should we be refitting that damn resistor then? (it's been on & off the engine about 6 times so far).
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terry t
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« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2011, 11:12:55 PM »

it need to be a coil for electronic ignition  Huh  it needs a bit more investigating
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morrag
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« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2011, 09:17:22 AM »

One final time then! yeah, right!!The ballast resistor is only used when the coil is a 9V item, which reduces the standard line voltage of 12volts d.c. to 9v. d.c. under normal running conditions. On starting however, and when the ignition switch is in the "spring loaded" clockwise position, a full 12v d.c. is applied to the 9v d.c. coil, via this ignition switch contact, bypassing the ballast resistor,to produce a "hotter" spark under engine cranking conditions,)IE. 12volts applied to a nom. 9v. d.c. coil}. Once the motor fires and is running, the spring loaded start position is released, then the coil voltage returns to the 9v. via the ballast resistor.Obviously, should, as sometimes happens, a fault occurs which results in 12v being continuously applied to a 9v. coil for some reason, then the coil will eventually fail! hope this clarifies things, if not bring the bloody thing to me Mr. M!!!! cheers for now, Morrag (ps. the distributer voltage is not really relevent here, as the dist. would normally use the batteries 12v supply,which would be suitably modified within the distributer,during manufacture, to provide its solid state circuit voltage requirements.)
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tbone
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« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2011, 04:31:06 PM »

One final time then! yeah, right!!

 Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes
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terry t
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« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2011, 04:45:33 PM »

 Hi all does any one know what this alloy unit is shown in photo below the coil
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morrag
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« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2011, 05:55:39 PM »

It looks like an aftermarket PC board such as "Spakrite" which was an interim measure to remove the lgnition points use, ie as a loaded component, before Hall effect transisters became the norm, Morrag
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tbone
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« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2011, 07:42:56 PM »

Terry, check out page 53 54 or 55 (around there somewhere) on Andy`s build thread, i have already gone over all this with him  Roll Eyes
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terry t
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« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2011, 08:15:30 PM »

Thanks tbone.i have done that already.
theres a photo there that shows a ballast resistor and the regulator.i am checking it all out now

morrag i dont think it is an aftermarket unit i believe some models were fitted from factory
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2011, 08:16:17 PM »

We no longer have the PC board thingy -binned it when we were told we didn't need it.
So, just for us, those idiots who don't understand wiring, our 12 volt coil will work fine with the, (possibly Lucas), electronic ignition dizzy we have, without the need for a ballast resistor? It won't fry the contents of the distributor?
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terry t
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« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2011, 08:29:51 PM »

Hi Andy.i think you were told wrong mate.your properly OK with that coil but you need the PC board this is what you had on your engine to maintain a stable current to your distributor. ask brock or the boys that work on these sort of engines.if we dont get this right i will never run properly

this was taken from a rover v8 forum

This sounds like you have the Lucas OPUS system 35DE8, and the alloy plate with the 3 spades each end is the ballast resistor.

Connections to this are as follows:-
distributor plugs into the distributor end of the ballast resistor and the white/grn wire on this plug connects to the coil (+) . The white/black goes to the coil (-)

The other side of the ballast is wired as follows:-
Bottom terminal is spare
Middle one should be connected to an ignition switched +12v supply
Top one (marked start) should be connected to the aux spade terminal on the starter motor.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2011, 08:44:23 PM by terry t » Logged
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2011, 08:46:19 PM »

O.K, so what you're saying is ...we're buggered then.
A normal ballast resistor won't do the job?
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terry t
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« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2011, 08:58:25 PM »

O.K, so what you're saying is ...we're buggered then.
A normal ballast resistor won't do the job?
not yet Andy gone this far. i am not giving up now we will sort it  Wink i am still looking

when you got this engine. did that coil with the ballast resistor come with it. or did you take it of the spare engine
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