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dobber
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« Reply #315 on: January 19, 2012, 05:08:09 PM » |
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seat will move easily, could even adapt car seat runners for it but the gear leaver is still sat between your legs, perhaps heat it up and bend it forward a bit. does any one know if the gear leaver can go the otherway so it bends to the right not the left. or have i put it in wrong way and it should favour the rightside anyhow which makes sense in a righthand drive.
think you may be right t bone on the fairing. maybe i was more thinking of a quick fix as cant find a chrome headlight wit a single bottom mount anywhere.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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zakboy
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« Reply #316 on: January 19, 2012, 05:20:27 PM » |
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cheers zakboy. not too small maybe?
did have a month on it before i started the thread. but did three month or more without touching it in summer
no i dont think it looks to small dobber, i like the rake as well not to much should give you a good ride |
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Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
Karma: 264
Posts: 55102
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« Reply #317 on: January 19, 2012, 10:46:08 PM » |
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My thoughts too -the bars & footpegs would be too much of a stretch for me, but then I like bikes with flat bars cos I like to stretch to them -the point is, if you're comfortable on it, it's right. Lookin' good mate.  |
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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dobber
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« Reply #319 on: January 23, 2012, 11:13:32 PM » |
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130613654251got these through the post today, thought if no good could put them on a trailer. having a stainless mount which covers the back and sides made. extreamly bright and got the right markings.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #320 on: January 23, 2012, 11:18:32 PM » |
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waiting for the marker lights. alloy so can polish them to death, should be easy to mount. also calling at wakefield radiators to price up a custom made rad as cant find anything slim enough for space i have or nice enough. do i have to have a fan with engine exposed or will rad and air do the job http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360426310171 |
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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nabsim
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« Reply #321 on: January 24, 2012, 01:35:36 PM » |
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Thats looking good dobber, certainly not too small. I would move a bit closer if it was me as well. My gearlever was cut just above where it goes in the box, welded to go straight out the left side then cut and welded again to go up. On the old setup this put the lever slightly behind and below my bum. Actually was quite comfortable and worked okay once I got used to it but it does give extra slop. I know some people who have done similar have had problems with it jumping out of gear but it never happened on mine.
I have seen some very nice alternatives on here to get a linkage out the side though
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zakboy
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« Reply #322 on: January 24, 2012, 03:16:49 PM » |
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waiting for the marker lights. alloy so can polish them to death, should be easy to mount.
also calling at wakefield radiators to price up a custom made rad as cant find anything slim enough for space i have or nice enough. do i have to have a fan with engine exposed or will rad and air do the job http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360426310171
Think you will need a fan dobber especially when your getting stuck in traffic and that kind of thing its suprising how quick you can over heat when stood still just ticking over |
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Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
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RODeo
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« Reply #323 on: January 24, 2012, 07:05:09 PM » |
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Hey Dobber...just my 2p mate..............this is a pic I took a while back (not mine!) of a trike gearlever "doglegged" ,it has a spring to presumably stop it wobbling around. Couldnt find the owner to ask if it worked or not ,but worth a try p'raps? Others apparently have used a thick rubber gaiter that shrouds the ball joint area to dampen the vibration. I seem to remember Andy (Manky) told me about that one?  The lever tends to travel at a weird angle when engaging reverse,so watch it doesnt foul the frame etc. I used the Terrortuby style of shift mechanism..works a treat,but is very close to a frame tube when reverse is engaged.It doesnt bother me tho' as rarely engage reverse anyway and it doesnt actually touch the frame. You need to keep the lever facing the l/h side as the right hand will be on the throttle I also feel that the way the ball joint 'cover' is located (that half round clip thing) could do with strengthening up,so am going to put a jubilee clip round the outside of the half round 'circlip' to make sure it stays there! |
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« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, 07:18:41 PM by RODeo »
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steve brock
Sr. Member
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Posts: 384
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« Reply #324 on: January 24, 2012, 07:30:01 PM » |
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Been thinking about that daft c clip thing too I got a new one and it's still crapola maybe couple of screws ? Ummm also I used a universal steering gator on my gear stick seems to work well..
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Steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with..
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RODeo
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« Reply #325 on: January 24, 2012, 07:34:59 PM » |
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I thought about screws too,but think that if drilling the hole for a s/tapper the 'neck' of the ball mounting in the casting may crack as the screw is wound in to make the thread. Best thing would be a couple of holes drilled and tapped then use small bolts(screws)not too long though! Thats why I suggested a jubilee clip (or purpose made stainless clamp?)
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fifer
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« Reply #326 on: January 24, 2012, 09:20:33 PM » |
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Great ; This forum is getting my grey cells working /
Leaving the original holes in the " C " clip alone , would welding 2 wee plates on the metal dome at 90 degrees to the original holes and drilling and tapping these plates not work ?
You could use a bigger stainless screw and just grind the last few threads off to the size of the original " C " clip ends ?
That way you would not need to touch the alloy top plate on the box .
The dome sits in a perfect circle near the base before it starts to dome away .
A piece of tubing about 1/2 inch high would fit around the bottom as a collar .
This could be made removable or fixed and tapped as above
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You could also just weld a couple of arms to the dome and secure them to the gearbox tip cover bolts .
This has the advantage of being able to do away with the " C " clip as they are sometimes prone to popping out of the holes if the ends are tapered or the alloy is worn .
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
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dobber
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« Reply #327 on: January 24, 2012, 09:48:18 PM » |
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hi nabsim, been a while. been a few said to get the seat forward but it does feel comfy now with the longer bars on. looking at putting car seat runners on the frame and bolt other to underside of the seat [18mm marine ply]. never seen it done but, ,,,, cant be hard..
fifer, got to keep gear change to the right as having a left hand handle bar clutch lever [ if i get my head round how to do it]. had a working foot clutch but binned it so as to keep it more bike like.,,,cant be hard
will try a bike fan zakboy but it will have to blow air through, not suck as it needs to go in front of the rad between the down frames, again,,,, cant be hard.
got the triangle headlight today, just mounted it a bit lower down than the last attempt, thought, that cant be hard and funny enough, it wasnt. [photos tomorrow]
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #328 on: January 26, 2012, 09:16:46 PM » |
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got the headlight mounted easily, incorperarted the brake splitter by drilling a flat triangleish shape bar which bolts to the offset 6mm thread holes on the bottom yolk. then drilled and tapped that 6mm and bolted the splitter centerally to it then bolted the headlight through a hole above.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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RODeo
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« Reply #329 on: January 26, 2012, 09:19:06 PM » |
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That workshop is w-a-a-y too tidy Dobber!  |
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