Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1110 on: February 17, 2016, 08:32:00 PM » |
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Fitted on the splined end of the original Yam' shaft, which is welded to a new shaft that runs across the frame inside a toob.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1111 on: February 17, 2016, 08:36:17 PM » |
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On the other end is a modified Yam' arm, attached to the shaft by a Scotch lock, (the end of the shaft & the arm are drilled & tapped & held together by a small grub screw). Below it is a return spring, Yamaha, but not sure where it was originally fitted.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1112 on: February 17, 2016, 08:40:25 PM » |
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A modified Ford Pop brake rod connects the arm to the master cylinder above it, (again, standard Yam'). I've replaced the solid pushrod with an adjustable one, but in the photos it's not welded, just sat in place for explanation.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1113 on: February 17, 2016, 08:43:01 PM » |
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Fitted to the master cylinder are a black rubber hose going to the fluid reservoir, a black braided brake hose going to the rear caliper & a hydraulic brake light switch.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1114 on: February 17, 2016, 08:45:26 PM » |
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Here's the small aftermarket fluid reservoir, bolted to a bracket that hangs off the top ignition coil mount inside the electrics box. It's about 2" above the height of the caliper, though the Harley type ones sit much lower & still work fine.
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« Last Edit: February 17, 2016, 08:59:28 PM by Manky Monkey »
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Olds
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« Reply #1115 on: February 17, 2016, 08:46:22 PM » |
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Is the RH foot peg mount acting as the return stop ? And have you tried moving the brake pedal around one spline to give more angle to the clevis arm ?
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1116 on: February 17, 2016, 08:50:36 PM » |
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Yes Dave, it stops against the underside of the footpeg. You mean drop the pedal one spline to give more travel on the arm? Nope, haven't tried that yet.
The reservoir has a small sight glass in the side & can be filled through the access panel under the seat, (the red bit's the Boyer electronic ignition module).
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1117 on: February 17, 2016, 08:51:59 PM » |
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A piece of white card behind the arm to show it a little more clearly.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1118 on: February 17, 2016, 08:55:16 PM » |
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The pedal measures 225mm from shaft centre to pedal pad centre. The arm is 40mm centre to centre. That gives a pedal ratio of 5.625, (I didn't cheat & use a calculator for that, honest).
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1119 on: February 17, 2016, 08:56:55 PM » |
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All suggestions gratefully accepted.
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Olds
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« Reply #1120 on: February 17, 2016, 09:04:43 PM » |
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Generally looks fine. As long as you have enough movement and the piston in the master drops to the point where the port to the reservoir is open, then it should work. I assume that there is a vent in the reservoir cap.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1121 on: February 17, 2016, 09:32:10 PM » |
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Not sure there is Dave. It has a 2 part rubber seal under it. I've tried the brake with the cap off while bleeding it though, with no difference. I'll try moving the pedal on the splines tomorrow & will refit the welded adjustable push rod.
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morrag
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« Reply #1122 on: February 17, 2016, 09:41:24 PM » |
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Mr M your set up looks more than adequate to me, with plenty of "leverage", brake arm to cross shaft. I suspect your M/C is not doing its stuff, but to perhaps prove it, either way, take 2' of 1"x1/4" flat m/s bar, or whatever you have to hand, drill two holes, one at the end for the simulated pivot point of the cross shaft, and another to accept the master cyl. clevis. Now you an arm you can operate by hand, with all the mechanical advantage you could require. For test purposes leave the return spring off, the cylinders piston should be held in location by a circlip anyway, so that will be fine. The rear calliper will be fairly small and requires little in the way size, for the moving column of brake fluid from the M/C, to operate it, ( I assume the slave cylinder is "tickety-boo?), worth a try don't yer think!!....  Morrag |
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1123 on: February 17, 2016, 10:10:52 PM » |
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Hiya. Both the caliper & master cylinder have been rebuilt & appear to work fine. Slave cylinder -what slave cylinder?
I'm fairly sure the master cylinder piston's being pushed it's full travel but will fit the adjustable pushrod & try & measure the travel compared to pushing it with a screw driver. I'll be amazed if adjusting the rod up or down just a couple of millimetres makes much difference to the excessive pedal travel, but will try it.
Dave's suggestion of turning the pedal on the splines sounds logical so I'll give that a go first.
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Olds
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« Reply #1124 on: February 17, 2016, 11:05:49 PM » |
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2mm too long and the master cylinder may not pump up. 2mm too short and that's 12 mm at the pedal before it starts to do anything at all.
One other possible problem might be misalignment between disc and caliper causing the pads to be pushed back into the caliper by the disc or caliper mount flexing. Had this to a degree on the trike until I got the carrier spacers exactly right. Though I doubt it could be bad enough for what you are experiencing
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« Last Edit: February 18, 2016, 05:26:01 AM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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