Don't want to smoke your bandwidth, but thinking here: take advantage of some of the rust & damage. I notice one pic looking at firewall from front, at upper right corner near hood hinge, it's dimpled in, which would cause the frame leg on front driver's side to lift at bumper end.
Let's look at a 'Y', and name the upper left angled line 'A', the upper right angled line 'B', and the vertical line 'C'.
If you picture the Y on its side and with tip of A & B connected to a vertical line [firewall], then line C is horizontal. Line A is connected top, line B is connected bottom.
Look at that dimple in firewall as connecting point of line A of this imaginary Y, which being puled backward lifted the far end of line C, the front left frame horn. Pushing A forward lowers end of line C!
In another pic I see the floor pan just above torsion bar crossmember is but a fond memory. There torsional rigidity of the other line B of imaginary Y has been weakend, such that it could move slightly forward, again imparting lift to line C as front left frame horn. First restoring floor section allows a strong pivot point B for work used to move connection of line A [the dimple] forward, to lower end of line C, the frame horn.
Lower hoist, place heavy wood padding on all but left front frame lifting pads. Chain down left front of frame, causing downward pressure on farthest end of unsupported front frame member. If hoist has precise control, a slight lift of hoist will give a slight downward bend to unsupported left front of frame. If lifted just enough to cause slight tension downward [not visible movement] then heating area of firewall dimple cherry red with a rosebud allows metal to relax [like lengthening line A of the Y] removing an incorrect stress in frame structure.
You may also use the padding as described, and whip a chain around front left with turnbuckle, when tightened stressing downward.
It's a monocoque frame as you know, so it's assembled much like a cardboard box with horizontal walls fixed together above a flat vertical floor. Creasing/bending one wall moves all other walls. All you want to do is tweak the walls of the box, remove incorrect stresses and restore correct stresses to make the box 'square' and rigid again.
So the heat with rosebud at upper firewall starts to relax that stress which is pulling frame horn up. The door mounting pillar contributes as well, so that may need heat applied, wherever there is a wrinkle, crease or dent that isn't found on opposite door pillar. May be necessary to do some light hammer work to coax the metal.
Replacing metal in the floor at torsion bar mount, while frame is under artificial stress, restores strength of mounting point of line 'B' of imaginary 'Y'. Lok at it first to see if you want to replace that first, before putting any twisting stresses to frame.
A very small amount of artificial stresses can cause very large movements, so EASY does it, slowly sneaking up on the overall mis-alignment.
Picture door opening as a square, draw diagonal line from upper right [rear] corner to lower left [front] corner. By exerting pressure along that line the lower left is forced forward, pulling upper left rearward. Drawing out door opening and diagonals, and seeing a Porta-Power hydraulic ram cylinder as the diagonal you see you can manipulate the shape as needed. Moving one section down can cause another section to lift up. May be necessary to weld on a temporary mounting point for ram to suit the force you want to exert, cut/grind off when done. Suitable lengths of heavy wall pipe added to hydraulic ram as extension, and sometimes a chain arrangement to prevent things flying in the wrong direction or causing injury, allows you to manipulate almost any section of body.
Also want to use pads that spread force of ram over a large area, to prevent punching a new dimple of damage into body parts.
Many of us fabricators use 'Picture Puzzle' repairs. You may have a 3 foot long box section with major rust damage. Far too much to handle as a unit, so, don't! Instead cut out a small section 1" X 3" with a die grinder cutoff wheel, cut and weld in a new metal coupon in that one spot, move on to the next. I reconstructed the entire rear section of the lower door opening of my wagon in this manner, dozens of small bits to restore one large section! Your entire door mount pillar could be restored this way, one piece or section at a time.
Applying oxy/acetylene heat with a rosebud tip, quenching with wet rags, causes a huge amount of movement in a metal panel as it shrinks after heating. A friend straightened my driveshaft, mounted stationary in lathe bed with a dial indicator setup to show lateral runout along the length. He heated a tiny section of shaft at one end, about a 1" round spot to cherry red and said, "Watch!" I was amazed to watch dial indicator dial spin madly as metal cooled, straightening entire length of driveshaft! 3 little spots done like that, by a pro, and my 5' long heavy gauge truck driveshaft was straight as an arrow!!
Take advantage of your existing structural weaknesses, as well as taking advantage of sound metal, and work off of them to tweak parts back into shape. Simplest tools are about all that's required, and a warm brain to know what you want the end result to be. Nice to practice on a hopeless wrecked car to hone technique, then set to on the Charger. Matter of fact, a cardboard box and a few minutes of fiddling can teach you a lot about monocogue chassis construction and inherent stresses.
VB can probably explain much of this more sanely and in terms that make more sense. The major point is, YOU CAN DO IT! After 95% of the straightening and metal repair/replacement is done take the chassis to a collision shop, have them throw it on a frame rack and tweak it into perfect frame alignment, MUCH cheaper than Mr. Cu$tom wants to charge, probably a couple or few hundred quid?
Lastly, the rear section of my Wagon was rear ended by a 2006 Ford F350 4X4 doing 25 mph at time of impact. He didn't skid, instead didn't hit the brakes until after impact, talking on his cell of course. Hit so hard it rolled the bottom floor under, accordioned the entire left rear quarter into a vee shape, split left rear inner fender separate from quarter, bent all of rear doors support frames, crushed my 3/8" steel plate rear bumper, blew out 3/4 of the body welds on left side, wracked driver's door opening so door wouldn't open, cracked through all welds at driver door lower step section, threw left front fender and radiator support out of alignment, cracked windshield [!], broke cab mounts connected to frame, cracked welds along rear top of truck body.
By 3 weeks later, using a telephone pole as anchor point and chaining up truck, then dumping the clutch on my 375hp 360 I yanked [no wisecracks] rear end somewhat straight, and using hydraulic jacks as Porta-Power, also a come-along chain hoist [hand winch], heat manipulations, lots of hammer work, picture puzzle re-construction of some areas, you can hardly tell it was hit. Total cost about $25 worth of oxy/acetylene. Po' folks find a way.
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