Manky's Pop.

[Olds]

Oh, err, um, think so. Yep, I'm absolutely positively almost certain it's a spare earth.

[Manky Monkey]

Great. I'll label it so that next time I've forgotten what it is I won't panic!

[Manky Monkey]

Another Pop pick-up at last weekend's Billing Aquadrome show in Northampton.
When I first saw the front view photo I genuinely thought it was mine from a previous show, (yeah, I know mine hasn't got red wheels).
This one has original Ford Pop wheels with twin rims at the back & a repro model T/A pick-up bed.


I know it's not a contest, but I'm glad we've done the bare metal thing & moved on now. 

[BikerGran]

Maybe someone saw yours and thought it looked good so...............

[Manky Monkey]

  Lots of other Pop pick-ups about, but it did make me look twice.

[hunter]

Odd.

Vehicle enquiry
Registration number: HDR 570
Tax

Not taxed for on road use
MOT

Exempt

New keepers must get tax before using the vehicle. Please be aware that if you have taxed, made a SORN or had an MOT in the last 5 days these details may not have updated.
Vehicle details

    Vehicle make
    FORD
    Date of first registration
    24 October 1980
    Year of manufacture
    1953
    Cylinder capacity (cc)
    933cc
    CO₂Emissions
    Not available
    Fuel type
    PETROL
    Vehicle status
    Tax not due
    Vehicle colour
    BLUE
    Vehicle type approval
    Not available
    Wheelplan
    2 AXLE RIGID BODY
    Revenue weight
    Not available

Calculating the cost of vehicle tax

[Manky Monkey]

I quite regularly get told it's a shame the Pop's got a Q plate, but as far as I'm concerned it's a badge declaring the vehicle's been properly registered.

Another busy day at work, followed by a dash across the Hampshire border into Berkshire this afternoon.
First stop, the saddlery shop to collect the leather strap for my bike's battery box -not ready yet.
Then the bolt shop to pick up some fasteners for the exhausts, (bolted the headers to the cylinder head but they need attaching to the rest of the system).
Then on to the powder coaters to drop off a heap of parts for my motorcycle.
Into Halfords for oil & coolant.
Finally to the upholsterer to pick up the re-worked headlining panel & door cards. Very nicely done, (photo tomorrow).
So no work done, but things going on in the background.

[BikerGran]

That Pop has an old plate at the rear but doesn't have one at all at the front - I guess it's just not being used on the road.

[Manky Monkey]

Might be inside the radiator grille Bobbi -not really legal, but quite common.

[BikerGran]

Well anyway, I think you can bask in the knowledge that "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" - But get the paint out cos you don't want yours looking like someone else's!   

[merv]

Even though it looks good  any body can have ford on the back, but there's only one manky

[Manky Monkey]

 
The new door panels, re-done by Phil the upholsterer. A mix of tuck n roll & plain vinyl to reflect the mix in the rest of the cab. I'm really pleased with them.
Today I finished bolting the exhaust headers to the rest of the system, then rubbed some paintwork down, before filling the motor with Halfords best "classic" engine oil & the radiator with a 50% mix of water & coolant. No oil leaks as far as I can see, but a bit of a problem with the coolant. Looks like two of the core plugs are leaking. Obviously it's the two rear ones along the sides of the crankcases, which are the most awkward to get to with the engine in the chassis -the driver's side one will require the removal of the steering linkage & starter motor to reach. Bugger.
So- what's the best way to fix these? A socket of the appropriate size to fit into the core plug recess, tapped with a hammer?  (there's no way the plug can actually pop into the crankcase is there?).
Or a small flat nosed punch tapped around the edge of the plug?
Or is there some sort of miracle sealant that'll fill any gap from the outside of the engine? (bearing in mind I haven't run it yet, so don't have the engine heat to cure a sealant).
Annoying, but I'm determined not to get disheartened about it -should be easy enough to fix shouldn't it? At least it isn't my fault!

[Olds]

Best way to stop core plugs leaking is to replace them. You could try sealing them, but until the engine is running and hot you will have no idea if they will leak. The V8 has cup type plugs as opposed to disc type. I'd pull the old ones, clean the hole surfaces thoroughly. De-grease both the hole and the new plugs and coat mating surfaces with Wellseal  and knock in new plug.
You can get oversize plugs but I've heard that these can stress the aluminium block.

Nice door panels.

[kapri]

What will definitely cure it from inside is K-Seal. Doesn't block rads either unlike the bloody Barrs Leak someone had put in my Capri radiator   I've just fixed a leaking plug INSIDE a bellhousing with K-Seal and have used it for years.

[Manky Monkey]

Hmm. So sounds like an exploratory tap around the rim of the plug with a socket or short length of pipe, (we've got lots of various sized offcuts in the workshop), & a hammer, followed by adding K seal to the rad' before running the motor, (didn't K Seal sing with the Sunshine Band?), & if that fails, pull the plug.
I've only ever replaced one core plug before, on a Reliant, but can't remember much about it. Are the plug holes tapered, or is there a lip that the plug sits against? Is it possible to tap them in too far?