Kawasaki 750 hard tail (was rear end ratios)

[Manky Monkey]

Worth the effort though if you're happier with it. Sometimes the little details make all the difference.

[minimutly]

Well the back bumper (stainless pipe), had the propane torch, body jack and long pipe with me pulling on the end of it. It's not perfect, but it's a lot closer to it.
What do I use to remove the tarnishing off the stainless? I seem to remember the welders using some pickling acid or something similar when I was in the dairies, but that was a long time ago.

[Olds]

Paste made of baking soda then rinse off with clean water, or solvo autosol and elbow grease.

[minimutly]

Thanks Olds, I'll try the baking soda first. Never tried Autosol, so perhaps it's time.
Tonight I needed to make up some ends for the 1 1/4 bumper tubes, had a look around, thought about alli, decided against it due to galvanic corrosion. Then I thought about stainless valves, not long after i had dug out a pair of stainless pinto exhaust valves. I cut the stem off one, turned it upside down and welded the stem to the front of the valve. It's now in my lathe ready for machining into a nice curvy shape, with a 5mm radius, veed out to allow for tig welding to the tube end. That will be one of them at least.

[minimutly]

Made and fitted the domed end caps, will hopefully look ok with some flapwheel action around the outside. I've been pondering the wiring/harness mounting. I didn't want to use cable ties, so thought of welding some stainless welding rods at equal distances, coiled up so the harness could run along them. The problem with this is that it makes polishing the heat tarnish out difficult, so, i've decided to use stainless bandit ties, with another loop tied under the main one. I do think this will work, and it means i can bolt up and polish everything after running the cables.
I've been sorting out the wiring to the back lights, and since they're led, i bought a pair of resistors for the indicators. However, now i think I'll have to change the fronts for leds as well, since the flash is a touch quick - bugger. Hazard switch and brake switches both playing up, but come on they are 33 years old...
Also been looking through the msva manual - a bit confused at referances to being readable to the max design speed of the vehicle - who the heck is going to determine that? Currently running a bike speedo, so it would need illuminating and labelling at least. Something tells me the tyres also have this speed issue. And on the subject of tyres - if labelled for rear wheel use, they must be fitted to the rear - thats me stuffed then.

[Olds]

Regarding the design speed of the vehicle, You can state your own design speed as long as it's not silly. For Deliverance I think I put it down as 70 MPH which was below the stated top speed of a Rialto 850. Take the bikes top speed and knock a chunk off for the extra weight and another chunk off, for the poor aerodynamics.

[minimutly]

Thanks Olds, anyone have any suggestions re the tyre marking on the front?
In the meantime I've been getting on with some wiring, checking idiot light colours and operation etc. my indicators and hazards ale orange led, high beam is blue, neutral is a flashing green! There is also a spare, not connected - anyone want to suggest uses?
Started on the prop rebuild, (i cocked up the phasing, and didnt install a sliding joint) - and yes it is a hard tail but the engine is on rubbers and i expect even after all my hard work on stiffening, there will still be some flexing. So I was going to use a cooper 's' hs coupling, at least untill I had a long look at both. The reliant drive flange is bigger, so I had to create a basterdised coupling.
Tomorrow I'll shorten the tube, make an adaptor to the mini shaft , clock it up and hopefully weld it.

[Olds]

As for the tyre, get one that doesn't say rear fitment only. Sorry.

[minimutly]

Sounds simple, but it isn't. The wheel is a yam r1 rear, and while I haven't looked yet, I would be suprised if There is a front tyre that'll fit. There may be a rear that isnt marked up as rear only though - anyone know?

[Manky Monkey]

When I was building Tazet's trike, (any one know where that is now?), I used a Yamaha V Max rear wheel in the front. I know it wasn't marked either front or back, but can't remember the make. Any tyre officianados recognise the tread pattern?
So... purely hyperthetically obviously, what if you were to sand the lettering off the tyre?

[Manky Monkey]

Her tractor trike. It was going to be Massey Ferguson Grey themed. I'd almost forgotten this one.

[the coppersmith]

did you make the girders/springers Andy??

[Manky Monkey]

No, they were built for us by Mick, ("FLC"), from Rotherham.

[minimutly]

That was just what I was going to ask, good looking set.
Hypothetically one could try to circumvent the testers beady eye - you might ask whats the problem in running the rear tyre on the front? None that I can see. And it would seem mot testers aren't so fussy about it, once the msva is in the bag, since the machine has had numerous mots since being bodged - oops I mean converted.
We'll see, not looked hard yet.
Tonight I made up the new propshaft, rialto (thin) tube, with an adaptor to the kawasaki front, a further adaptor turned up to suit a mini sliding joint and HS joint, with a cut down mini inner valve spring inserted. It now holds itself in place quite nicely, but i've still to make a retaining pin. I did wonder why I didn't cut the whole thing up and make a new one out of a solid mini shaft, but that would have meant a right faff to get the kawa end out of the previously made prop. One day perhaps, if i come across an original kawasaki front joint.

[Manky Monkey]

Let's 'ave a look at it then.