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Author Topic: Brake pipe inside handlebars ?  (Read 19237 times)
ByzMax
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« Reply #15 on: October 04, 2013, 04:53:27 PM »

Would use a s/steel braided flexi hose myself.
What's the thinking behind that vs copper ByzMax?

Copper although flexible will harden and become brittle over time with vibration etc as it will no doubt be rubbing inside and can wear through as it is soft. You won't know this till it goes pop or cracks. To be on the safe side use a flexi stainless with a compression fitting so you can pass the pipe through and then put the ends on. Or just make the hole big enough for the compression nut. Also if you are worried about the size of the hole weld a small tube in it (crush tube) and have it pointing in the direction you want the pipe to go.

Hope that helps
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stumpy
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« Reply #16 on: October 05, 2013, 05:06:45 PM »

ohhh no what am i to do all my rear lines are copper ... brittle brake failure i might crash AND my car has copper brake lines
better check that perhaps i could sell to some one that dont know of all the danger they are in its quite an old car 62 plate
i wonder how long its got left
maybe ill just stay in untill the car sells !!!! maybe someone will come up with a yearly test to make sure we are all safe
 
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digger06
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« Reply #17 on: October 05, 2013, 08:28:28 PM »

car lines are clipped to the chassis etc, they cant rub unless something goes wrong, as long as the solid pipe isnt rubbing where the holes are drilled it would be ok, i think a grommet/rubber a good idea though as previously said
« Last Edit: October 05, 2013, 08:49:06 PM by digger06 » Logged
ByzMax
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« Reply #18 on: October 06, 2013, 10:54:00 AM »

ohhh no what am i to do all my rear lines are copper ... brittle brake failure i might crash AND my car has copper brake lines
better check that perhaps i could sell to some one that dont know of all the danger they are in its quite an old car 62 plate
i wonder how long its got left
maybe ill just stay in untill the car sells !!!! maybe someone will come up with a yearly test to make sure we are all safe
 


Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy

There is nothing wrong with using copper but as Digger pointed out it's not the material it's the circumstances and it's used in. They use steel now  not copper. Does that say that steel is the best option or the cheapest.

I had a copper brake line split on a trike after a couple of years use and probably due to vibration.

I don't know how long the bars are on this machine. How much vibration is it subjected to due to the unrestrained length?

Point is it'll cost little more to use stainless and it will do the job for that area and the rest of it that is outside the frame and can be inspected and clipped at regular intervals will be fine in copper.

In truth most custom vehicles don't get enough use to suffer stress fatigue  generally but is that a reason not to do the best job you can? Good practice that is all!  Wink

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fifer
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« Reply #19 on: October 06, 2013, 10:02:23 PM »

Some Reliant axles use wheel cylinders which slide on the brake backplate with the obvious flexing of the copper pipe .
Having said that you would have to be very unlucky indeed to suffer a fracture if you had good enough bends in the pipe .
.
.
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andyrennison
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« Reply #20 on: October 06, 2013, 10:44:10 PM »

Its the chaffing I'm a tad concerned about. Decisions, Decisions .....
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trikerpete
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« Reply #21 on: October 06, 2013, 10:54:28 PM »

a tube of silicone squirted inside the bars will sort that out Roll Eyes
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what do you mean, I cant do that !! Smiley
merv
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« Reply #22 on: October 06, 2013, 11:09:36 PM »

a tube of silicone squirted inside the bars will sort that out Roll Eyes

A very good solution
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ByzMax
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« Reply #23 on: October 07, 2013, 06:56:12 AM »

a tube of silicone squirted inside the bars will sort that out Roll Eyes

A very good solution

Yep it probably would.

Make sure have inserted all other cables wires first if you are doing that though. 

Fifer. Yep it was unlucky but it was on a straight section of pipe and caused probably by not being clipped down enough. over time it just work hardened where it was flexing. I bought the trike and rode it every day for 4 years and it lasted about 18 months before splitting.

Anyhow it's up to the individual to use what they deem to be the best in the circumstances. An opinion was sought and stainless braided flexi is my preferred option. Other have theirs  Wink
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andyrennison
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« Reply #24 on: October 07, 2013, 07:29:40 AM »

Im going to get a length of braided and have a play as well. Will post pics (for Merv) Smiley
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merv
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« Reply #25 on: October 07, 2013, 09:58:02 PM »

Im going to get a length of braided and have a play as well. Will post pics (for Merv) Smiley

 Grin
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andyrennison
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« Reply #26 on: October 19, 2013, 04:32:44 PM »

Ok, So I did a mock up to see what could be done. As I will be making holes in the bars, I want to keep strength there, so I am planning to use crush tubes. by careful bending of these I can also make the contents come out in the right place without any chafing (I hope).  Here are some pics. Comments anyone??
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andyrennison
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« Reply #27 on: October 19, 2013, 04:35:07 PM »

Bars are 25.4mm diameter, 3mm wall Cold formed steel tube. Not a lot of room inside the tube, so getting around junctions will be fun, but I have a plan for that Smiley
« Last Edit: October 19, 2013, 04:50:53 PM by andyrennison » Logged

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scannerzer
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« Reply #28 on: October 19, 2013, 06:21:07 PM »

looks good Andy probably the best way to guide the wires would be to run welding wire through them as your building them,or is it to late for that?
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andyrennison
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« Reply #29 on: October 19, 2013, 06:25:04 PM »

looks good Andy probably the best way to guide the wires would be to run welding wire through them as your building them,or is it to late for that?

No, Iv'e done that. Will use that to draw some thicker wire through at the right time, then feed the stiffer brake tube over that using it as a guide wire.
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