|
kapri
|
 |
« Reply #105 on: July 24, 2013, 10:04:52 PM » |
|
Fitting radiators lower than the top hose is very common in modern cars as they keep going lower and lower on bonnet lines. Hence why expansion bottles have become so popular . On theses types of car rads there is no filler cap fitted ( sometimes a plug on the end ) to help rid it of airlocks so you fit a blanking cap onto yours to duplicate.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #106 on: July 25, 2013, 05:47:07 AM » |
|
Which Ive done,but what about the smaller pipe connecting to highest point?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #107 on: July 25, 2013, 08:15:57 AM » |
|
On the bulk of the rads I've seen it comes from the top corner of the rad it's merely to make it easier for any trapped air to escape, mainly when filling from scratch. Sometimes it comes from the stat housing as the highest engine point.
When refilling a system from scratch the trapped air rises and sits behind the stat until it opens hence the big burp into the header tank the first time it opens. Some stats have a 3mm hole from factory to allow slow and steady bleed of air out of the system prior to stat opening.
The Reliant rad is the same as a Mini and all early ones used to have a wire pointer in the top tank . This was to stop people overfilling because as soon as the water started to expand it would overflow from the cap . Then it would get topped right back up again and so the cycle continued with people looking for a problem that didn't actually exist !! Just like the Cortina rad in my A , it needs 1/2" water in the top tank just covering the tubes to allow for expansion any more and it continues to puke.
Obviously on yours you've got to fill to the very neck as it's lower than the stat but you get the drift of what I'm saying .
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 08:25:10 AM by kapri »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #108 on: July 25, 2013, 02:19:49 PM » |
|
results............
so the exp tank is fitted with the larger bottom pipe t'd into the bottom hose at 90 degrees,(not sure it should be a 90 deg 't' or a angled joint so that the flow from the exp tank 'joins' the flow from rad to block gradually.)it may be causing conflict as is.
I fitted a small diam take off point into the top bend of the stat housing,and the pipe from this now goes to the top pipe stub on the exp tank.
I filled it exactly as Kapri suggested.
Took it for a run on my own..50/60 mph this time. Remember ,it spat the water at about 102 degrees previously on about a 10 mile run,at about 50/55 mph with the other pipe config?This time ,with a bit more speed,it spat a small amount of water at around 110 degrees.I stopped in a layby a couple of times turned off engine,and temp dropped by around 10 degrees in no more than 10 mins.
Im guessing that the same temp would happen but at a slower speed if I had a load on ,ie SWMBO and stuff on the rack.OR the weather was hotter (its not as hot as the last few days here.)
From this Im concluding that it needs cooling more at higher speeds??? I think if I correctly fit a proper fan in front of the rad to 'push' air it will aid cooling. Having said that,the fan I bodged on there in front of the rad wasnt switched on for the test runs. I did try it,but it made no temp difference.(probably cos it was leaking air out the sides .)
Any thoughts anyone?
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 02:26:12 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #109 on: July 25, 2013, 02:36:27 PM » |
|
With everything else as it is now try restricting flow through the bottom hose by crushing the hose . As I don't know the spec of the core in the rad it is always possible that it has too many cores which allows too great a flow at speed . This means the water doesn't stay in contact with the tubes long enough for the heat to be transferred. By restricting the bottom hose you slow flow and (hopefully) increase cooling. I'll be back with a link re this in a while.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #110 on: July 25, 2013, 02:43:31 PM » |
|
I'll do that and give it a run in about half hours time.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #111 on: July 25, 2013, 02:44:06 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #112 on: July 25, 2013, 02:57:26 PM » |
|
Interesting stuff on there Kev! ..Now to restrict the flow and test run!..back later..
I couldnt restrict the hose as it came out the rad,but only as it went in to the block,which I guess isnt so effective.
RESULTS.........Same bit of road as previous,60mph constant speed. roughly 8 miles @60mph,then down to an idle to turn round,then back at 60mph. Its very hard to tell if the restriction was helpful or not,but it did reach 100 degrees,then 105 and it coughed. This could be cos I topped it up a bit before the run.
What about using water wetter?
or replacing the thermostat with a disc with a hole in it to slow down the coolant?
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 04:48:15 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #113 on: July 25, 2013, 04:10:09 PM » |
|
Both water wetter and a 50/50 antifreeze mix will reduce operating temperatures. Coughing at 105 does sound like air lock still rather than overheating presuming that you still have the 13lb cap on ?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #114 on: July 25, 2013, 04:49:12 PM » |
|
Never had a 13lb cap. Its 7lb. Should I up the poundage? Should I 'tip the can'(theres an old drag racer saying for ya!  ) for more a/freeze? (already using a 25 % mix) Update..........Just got back from a 2-up ride on the same route as before. Kept the spd to around 55 mph going there. Same results as previous,not quite at spitting point. Dropped the spd on the way back to around 50 mph(which is what we would normally travel at) ,managed to keep temp reading about 98c. Got home ,checked rad top temp with digi thermometer= roughly 20 c higher than bottom of rad. I also noticed that after a run at 55 mph,then slowing down for a r/bout ,the temp dropped off by about 3 degrees almost instantly. Tomorrow I will try a scoop under the rad to try to deflect air into rad @90 degrees to fins. I will also try blocking off an area of rad with gaffa tape. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 06:29:00 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #115 on: July 25, 2013, 07:06:15 PM » |
|
I'd go with 13lb cap plus upping antifreeze to 50% . 20' drop when motoring is EXCELLENT and shows its getting enough air and fluid time in core. That temp is dropping off too quickly for my liking. Do a voltage test on the battery when off ,when idling and when up to about 3000 rpm. Should max out at 14.7v anything more than that and that's where the high temp readings are coming from.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #116 on: July 25, 2013, 07:08:38 PM » |
|
Just had another look at the set up , are you using along neck rad cap ie you have to compress it to get it to fit ? Otherwise you may have a short neck cap which doesn't seal and the water will boil and spit out at 100C if so.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #117 on: July 25, 2013, 07:10:11 PM » |
|
will go check right away.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #118 on: July 25, 2013, 07:14:20 PM » |
|
Ver y good point!The old cap was longnecked,the brand new replacement cap is shortnecked.Theres about 10mm difference. I cant remember at what point in the testing reigime I changed it!
Will give it a run with the old cap (longneck) back in it tomorrow ,then fit a longneck 13lb'er and try that!
btw ,readings at the battery,or output of alternator?
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 07:17:23 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #119 on: July 25, 2013, 08:15:10 PM » |
|
Either will do Rod ,I normally check at the battery .
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
