|
andyrennison
|
 |
« Reply #60 on: July 22, 2013, 07:54:41 PM » |
|
....... being as you have a fairly long hose...... ooooooh errrr missus  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
|
|
|
|
Olds
|
|
« Reply #61 on: July 22, 2013, 08:21:14 PM » |
|
The standard stat should start to open between 86 and 89 deg. and be fully open at 103 deg.
As Andy says, a couple of good pics might give an idea of your setup.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #62 on: July 22, 2013, 09:07:08 PM » |
|
Well i did say it was heath robinson!.......................  Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls......  Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls......  Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls......  Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls......  Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls...... Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls...... |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 22, 2013, 09:11:59 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #63 on: July 22, 2013, 09:18:55 PM » |
|
Re the stat temps..yes I did know the opening times. Shouldnt the guage reading drop when it opens? Mine doesnt,but I do know(think) the stat is open ,cos the bottom hose gets hotter.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
andyrennison
|
|
« Reply #64 on: July 22, 2013, 09:42:16 PM » |
|
Here is a question for all. As the expansion inlet is at the bottom of the expansion tank, and the thin copper tube is connected to the pump inlet...... Will the pump not also pump water into the bottom of the expansion tank and suck it from the top, creating a "short circuit" around the rad?
Do you ever see flow that way Rod?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
|
|
|
|
spanners
|
|
« Reply #65 on: July 22, 2013, 09:47:24 PM » |
|
just a note
i see youre using a ,smiths, electric temp gauge they are notorius for bieng inaccurate , if used without and gauge voltage regulator ,
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #66 on: July 22, 2013, 09:56:53 PM » |
|
Spanners........
No more Smiths! Ive now got a durite one with matching sender!
Andy...the coolant flows from the back of the head through the copper pipe into the tank.I know this because if I squeeze this pipe it slows the rate of flow from the copper pipe into the tank.Im beginning to wonder if the pipes to the tank are wrong way round. It seemed 'natural' to plumb the larger diam pipe stub into the larger diam top hose. Im getting different answers to this on various websites.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
spanners
|
|
« Reply #67 on: July 22, 2013, 10:01:04 PM » |
|
even the durite gauge with matchin sender needs a regulated feed not just a batt, or ign, live feed .
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #68 on: July 23, 2013, 07:54:48 AM » |
|
I had the correct regulated feed on the smiths one,but the Durite one just needs 12v,so I by passed the 10v regulated feed.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 23, 2013, 07:56:21 AM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
andyrennison
|
|
« Reply #69 on: July 23, 2013, 08:01:45 AM » |
|
I had a thought Rod. If you just leave her ticking over for a long time does the temp stabilise and the electric fan turn itself on and off?
If it does then that would tell me your design is right, but your fan isn't up to it when producing more heat.
If it overheats at tickover then there is something else wrong.
Anyone care to comment on that logic?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #70 on: July 23, 2013, 08:10:03 AM » |
|
Fan does come on as temp rises and goes off when engine cools when parked,but lately Ive been running it on over ride from start up.Good point. As the temp reaches about 100 degrees(just over,and it spits)when riding, if I back off the throttle the temp will drop. Also if I sit in traffic,the temp will drop to say around 90 degrees,which was why I thought it needed a larger fan ie more air through the rad.If i start it from cold,it takes a lot of revving while it sits parked for the temp to climb. If I dont rev it from cold,it will sit around 80/85 degrees all day.
Im reluctant to put fan on it until I know theres not another inherent prob with my design.Im reluctant to also move/re- do any of the heath Rob. crap until I know.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 23, 2013, 08:16:30 AM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Olds
|
|
« Reply #71 on: July 23, 2013, 08:16:11 AM » |
|
Not sure that the small pipe is actually helping except to provide a vent while filling the system via the expansion tank.
A 15lbs rad cap instead of the zero blanking cap saves having to block the rad overflow.
I think that your problem may be ignition or carburation.
The Haynes book says timing should be at TDC I feel this is too retarded and set mine at 10deg BTDC
Is it possible that you are not getting enough fuel flow causing the engine to run lean under load. This can be as simple as having the wrong fuel cap or a restrictive fuel tap. Some Harley caps for example are not vented.
These may have been discussed before, if so I apologise.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #72 on: July 23, 2013, 08:23:06 AM » |
|
No apology reqd ON! I ve thought of fuelling and did actually lean out the carb a couple of flats yesterday,as I noticed it puffed a bit of unburnt fuel out the exhaust on start up yesterday am.
Cap is home built and it has a hole in it ,but I will check.
Timing ..I altered it slightly yesterday and it ran ever so slightly smoother,less lumpy ,in conjunction with the fuel lean out.Its got elec ign and literally starts instantly every time,hot or not.Ive read its hard to time on the pulley marks,as they arent always accurate
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
kapri
|
|
« Reply #73 on: July 23, 2013, 08:24:48 AM » |
|
I'm now about to come at it from a total different point of view based on personal experience. Buy yourself a infrared laser thermometer ( about £25-35 on e bay )to verify ACTUAL temps compared to gauge readings. Firstly start with top and bottom rad tanks and you should see a minimum 10C drop from top to bottom to show rad is working correctly .
Then check the surrounding metal temp where the temp transmitter is located .
I had what appeared to be an overheating problem that as you went faster the engine temp increased pro rata . However as you throttled back the temperature dropped very quickly ,in fact too quickly to be a true reading. I traced the fault to the alternator which was putting out unregulated voltage and the gauge was acting partially as a straight forward volt meter and showing additional output as a rise in temperature!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #74 on: July 23, 2013, 08:26:53 AM » |
|
See your point,but the gauge is reading high temps and the water is spitting to match the temps!
but what about the pipework set up? Is it correct?
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 23, 2013, 08:28:32 AM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
