Ariel

[blair]

now im not one fir the nanny state but in starting to feel a little persacuted , now us kitkat lovers are not to be feared we are a peacefull kind and we are no different to jaffa lovers   . im sure we can all live on this here fluffy forum in peace and harmony  

i only really have on last thing to say

kitkats rule 

[Manky Monkey]

I prefer Battenburg to Bundaburg.

[fifer]

now im not one fir the nanny state but in starting to feel a little persacuted , now us kitkat lovers are not to be feared we are a peacefull kind and we are no different to jaffa lovers   . im sure we can all live on this here fluffy forum in peace and harmony  

i only really have on last thing to say

kitkats rule 

I am willing to HobNob with KitKat lovers as I have a strong Digestive system and I do not care what the Fox’s going to happen to me . 
The road might be Rocky but the Taxi will cope , especially since it is driven by my mate BaldiGari who used to be a Wagon Wheel builder .
Well we came through that unscathed as the Jammie Dodger missed all the holes and we did not go for a Burton .
I personally think that Jaffa Cakes are in the Blue Riband class but  I am Cream Crackered from Dunkin Donuts .

.

[BikerGran]

 

[blair]

ok well having had a look at the bike , the frame is fine the wheels are shot , there is no electrics lsft other than the coil , not sure if the stator will , the gearbox has been partially disasembled so i decided the motor was the starting point.
The barrel had water sat in it and was pretty badly corroded and it was hard to tell but the piston was on a +0.50 thou , since the max overbore is +0.60 its goosed , someone had been in the engne before and there were losts of bodges and rounded nuts ,bolts and buggered screw heads . it was pretty easy to strip and ive managed to find a source for new parts so ive ordered a complete set of bushes for the engine and found a second and barrel at +.030 thou we a piston and rings to suit.

inside the head was a bit sludgy , will need to fit a couple of helicoils but a clean up and it should be ok

Ariel

barrel was knackered 

Ariel

[Manky Monkey]

A challenging project, but at least old Brits are still fairly plentiful & many parts are now available as reproductions. Good luck with the build.

[Dslam]

You can get the barrel fitted with a new liner. Costs a bit but the plot goes back to std ready to be worn out again

[triker_Chewie]

I prefer Battenburg to Bundaburg.

Beerenburg

[blair]

You can get the barrel fitted with a new liner. Costs a bit but the plot goes back to std ready to be worn out again

yep that is true but i would have to send the barrel away and due to it being cast iron itll cost a bit in postage , but the plan would be to get that done at some point so i have a spare 

[blair]

well i got the points cover off and the advance / retard unit , not having much luck finding a relacement unit so i may have to A, refit the unit as was or B find some springs that would suit .
this let me remove the cam gear and allow access to the oil pump gear.

Ariel

Ariel

Ariel

Ariel

[The North]

 Look at trying to get a electronic ignition system on it, i am no expert but i had a Kawasaki Bayou farm quad years ago, it did the favorite Kawasaki quad party trick blow the cdi unit , it was mega bucks to replace around 175 a fair bit in the mid 90s.  A mate now sadly passed away fitted electronic ignition system not sure what sort but it worked brilliantly never gave anymore trouble.
 As i said none to good at new fangled ignitions but one thing i can remember is MSD  Multiple spark discharge , that was style of ign unit, if any bright sparks can shed any light on this principe and how to adapt it here should you want to.  Cost me about 20 quid back then for the bits and his imput god bless him, 

[blair]

hi TN , its something that i have been thinking about electronic ignition , i did a swap a few years back on my first chop . fitting a gpz ignition system into a z550 so i have a wee bit of a idea how it goes , the main problem would be that id have to swap the stator and dynamo to a 12 volt and get a reg rectifier . i have been trawling the internet for a couple of weeks now but i seam to end up back at the same sites and none are any use , i ve even been using the bsa c11 as the search base and the following link is the best ive found yet but i think the site has been closed down 

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/british-cycle-supply-company-4160/parts-and-accesssories-for-pre1988-british-motorcycles-20367/page-53-fullsize.html

so i could just keep the AAR closed as it was untill i find an alternative  , i still have to clean up the dynamo and get it tested by someone that knows how to test them  , there a couple of armature winders up here but they are industrial set ups so not sure if they can help on a 6 volt peice

[morrag]

Before you go off on the expensive, time consuming, mods. route, do the following. Overhaul the points set up, and if you can't replace the springs in the short term, then wire the advance/retard unit in the fixed advance position. The Ariel is based on the hugely reliable 250cc BSA C12 of the mid 50's, and has a 6v Alternator, crankshaft mounted, of 48 watts nom. output and is fine for your needs, really, although you can replace the Stator with the later Lucas 2, wire single phase, 10A stator, should you require better lights in the future!. This set up will WORK WELL if suitably cleaned up and maintained, no need to look further!! and its simple, so perservere, and it will run like good 'un, ok.  ;DMorrag

[blair]

im just really doing some armchair thinking to be honest Morrag , there a few people that i can try with regards to testing the generator so it may be that it was just disconected by one of the owners when it became a feild bike  . as for the AAU i someone pointed me in the direction of a set of 3 different tensoined springs designed for the job , the electronic thoughts were just because its easy to set up  .

removed the oil scavanger and pump. some more sludge but no to bad , the pump would turn using a pair of pliers so i took it to bits and found it too was sludged up , gave it a clean and hey presto it was fine , to test it i stuck it in a areosol can lid filled with oil and turned it and yep it seams to work  so it can live in the cap of oil till its needed

Ariel

Ariel

Ariel

also got some parts today for my bottom end and made a valve spring compressor , sopke to a bloke that does head conversions and he rekond 120- 140 to do a set of hardend valve seats  but as this aint going to be a hard worked thrash machine ill stick with the seats i have using high octaine petrol and maybe some addative 

Ariel

[Dslam]

There is quite a lot of tosh spoken about unleaded fuel and valve seat recession. I have several old brit bikes, none of them have hardened valve seats and none of them require valve adjustment more than normal. Having spoken to several engineers and my own experience leads me to the following conclusions;
The existing valve seats will have work hardened with use. Hopefully a light re cut or lap will be all that is required to bring them back into useful service.
If the head is cast iron no hardened inserts are required as this work hardens as well. Bikes from the pioneer days through to the late 20's have iron heads and no lead in the fuel and were not problematic. Beware of super unleaded. This fuel (contrary to popular opinion) is not good news. It is slightly thicker in consistency and clings to the surfaces through which it travels unlike regular unleaded as it is designed for injected engines. As a result it can cause strange weak spots through the rev range on carbed engines which are a mare to tune out. To make matters worse different fuel companies have varying formulations making changes from one fuel to another a pain as well. To add to this pile of problems the flame path in the combustion chamber is slower yet hotter requiring the ignition timing to be retarded a few degrees.
My advise would be to use regular unleaded with a proprietary brand of lead additive with octane booster. This brings the fuel to somewhere near what the bike was designed to run on and the added bonus of stabilising the fuel so it takes longer to go off.
Your biggest problem is Ethanol. A plant derived 'green' additive that the fuel manufacturers have to add due to our European chums in Brussels. This stuff will dissolve many types of fuel resitsant hoses and that little Viton tipped float needle in the carb is in peril too. It is also hydroscopic. It absorbs water from the atmosphere and dumps it in the bottom of your tank causing it to rust from the inside out. Seal your tank with ethanol proof tank liner.
I could go on for hours but the shed should have warmed up by now