Ariel

[morrag]

I agree with Dslam, and its worth remembering that in the late 40's and for a number of years, all that was available in this country was the notorious "Pool" petrol, with a varying octane rating running from rubbish down to "Bugger all", so motor cyclists like my Dad and older brothers just put decompressing plates below the cylinders of their, mostly, single cylinder machines, and rode on! that's the way things were! I run a number of older machines , but the millage they see a year, like most peoples I imagine, would not require hardended seats. So, put together what you have, in as standard form as you can, and run it, hey, whatever you do ain't going to make the ubiquitous "Colt" a road burner, believe me! so, enjoy it as a piece of Brit. nostalgia, why don't you......... Morrag

[blair]

its ok guys i aready decided the route of unleaded and addative , i was speaking to a mechanic that said back when leaded was fazed out they would put a bag with lead shot into the tank   also thought that as well as valve seat recession it was do to with the valve sticking in the guides as the lead also helped lubricate them.

Think i have managed to get someone that can test the dynamo for me   . and also got the springs for the AAU. will see how things pan out before spending any more cash. so far its cost £210 but that for a second hand barrel , new piston , gasket set , bushes for the bottom end , new valves and guides
i know that some folk will think that is probably too much for an old engine but the rest of the bike aint going to cost that much to do , got a second gearbox for spares for £30

spend half a day in the garage to day cleaning stuff , drifted out the valve guides from the head that i had to put helicoils into but i sat it on the the old barrel that it came of and the faces dont meet to well , rekon there a high point in the centre , i did go over the face with some 1000 grit wet and dry cause i would guess that at some point someone had "cleaned" off the od head gasket with a flap or grinding wheel and the face was a bit pitted , but i never removed that much   . possible warped with heat .

Ariel

i suppose the decition is do i use the other head :?: it has a broken fin but all the threads are good , and it seams to be a better matting face , but i am unsure how much play the head gasket takes up . it seams pretty thick but i would want to risk stripping the threads my self

Ariel

dont know if any of you knowledgable people know how to measure a barrel , i have 1 at +0.30 with apiston and also the one i dont know , the +0.30 fits int the one i dont know so how do you measure them ? . thinking i may be able to save the original barrel without sleeving it  

[morrag]

Get yourself a sheet of plate, or at least thick glass, and some grinding paste to true the head up, and grind in circular motion, that will be sufficient to remove minor offset, then combined with an annealed copper head gasket you should be ok.Regards the piston to bore sizing, well I use internal and external micrometers, as its difficult to measure bore taper without,but a rough assessment of piston to bore fit can be achieved with feeler gauge's, ensuring that the rings have been removed from the piston, Morrag

[blair]

cheers Morrag , have got a nice 10 mm thick plate of glass here and need to get some paste for grinding the valve in so ill give it a try the morn 

ive been told theres an old school guy that does heads , rebores and valve seats and stuff so ill take the barrel in past him and see what he thinks

[BikerGran]

Valve grinding - that was always my job back when me and my ex used to rebuild engines out of our mates' rally cars - my ol dad taught me when I was about 12!

Wonder if there are any 12 year olds who know what a valve is, nowadays?

[WAYNE999]

My 14 year old doesn't want to know what a valve is . Although he'd figure it out if it was on the end of a PlayStation controller

[triker_Chewie]

some people arent mechanically inclined. my father told me that you work to earn money so that you could pay people that are qualified to do the job for you.
i only have been interested in auto stuff for the last 10 years or so

[morrag]

Your father was probably right! and his way you keep this nonsense as a hobby

[blair]

ok well not too much going on but a load to report , so ill start with the head truma . i was drilling something at work on the pedastal drill and droped dril bit so bend down to pick it up and on my way back up i managed to cut my forehead on the chuck safety guard  . anyways i took Morrags advice kind of , i bonded a peice of 400 grit wet and dry onto a 10 mm thick plate of glass and pressed it so it would stay flat . i didnt have any engineers blue so black marker pen was the best alternative i could think of . i painted the machined face of the head and then ran it round in circles after 5 mins i could see that the faces tappers off on the outer edges  . i spent another hour at it and its prett good now but there another possible problem , i fitted the new valve stem guides and started to grind the valves but i think the exhaust seta may be on its last leg. i have a psar ehead but it has a broken fin so i didnt want to use it but its all servicable other than that .

Ariel

the exhaust seat doesnt look like there to much meat left ( 12 oclock possition ) but il keep going with it and see how the valve beds in before deciding

Ariel

[blair]

also cracked the crank case open and it looks pretty clean inside so no problem . then i split the crank and i am unsure as to whats going on with the big end . there was no fluid or oil in the crank case but the bearings seam to have been sat in fluid of some type . the rollers are pretty badly pitted and theres staining on the pinion, i have a spare so im not to bothered in fact my spare conrod has a better small end bearing bush so that will be used . i have a mate that pressing in the new crank case broze bushes for me as i dont have a press and its not worth buying one but i may have to speak to a machine shop to "size" the bearings.

Ariel

Ariel

Ariel

[Manky Monkey]

Sorry, off topic a bit, but anyone remember the "Ogri" cartoon from Bike magazine, (think they're being reprinted in Back Street Heroes now), where Ogri shows his dopey mate Malcolm how to true an engine casing up using a sheet of glass & grinding paste? Malcolm goes home to try it but uses bathroom window glass -with a raised pattern in it. 

[wizzkitt]

Sorry, off topic a bit, but anyone remember the "Ogri" cartoon from Bike magazine, (think they're being reprinted in Back Strret Heroes now), w

Reprints??? All the Ogris printed in BSH have been brand-new-to-the-world cartoon strips.

[Manky Monkey]

Hiya Wizzipoo.
I didn't know Mr Sample was still producing them.
As the man in the orthopedic shoes said, I stand corrected.

[BikerGran]

These lurkers give themselves away don't they..............   

[blair]

well been a while .

turn out the head made its own mind up , the exhaust valve was literaly worn away , didnt notice till i started to grind int the new valves and the valve stuck in th guide and the only way to free it was to push the guide back ?? so i have to use the head with the broken fin . its ok i have some belzona super E that i will make a fin from , itl be kina cosmetic but better than a great big gap .

other news is that i got all the new bushes pressed into the cases , unfortunately none of my engineering mates have reamers thats close to the sizes required ! , i have absalutely no idea how to open them out , i tried using a 3 legged honer tool that lasted one bush and then fell to bits .i could put them into the lathe but now they are fitted thats a little tricky . also theres not much info on clearances but have read that its better to fit the new bush and grind the crank shaft to fit ?

anyways the lad i need is on snow clearing duty so itll be a few days before the engine make progress .

so long suckers