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Author Topic: A little progress  (Read 160705 times)
morrag
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« Reply #30 on: September 05, 2012, 06:11:35 PM »

Digger is absolutely right, there's so much rubber in modern suspension setups, so that your average punter will not feel anything untoward in the way of road "noise", that when the "motor" is jacked 'orf terra firma, the whole lot moves at will!!! Morrag
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #31 on: September 05, 2012, 08:40:58 PM »

As long as the headstock's vertical & the axle's horizontal & 90 degrees to the headstock, the rest is all just aesthetics really.
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digger06
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« Reply #32 on: September 05, 2012, 08:46:50 PM »

what you gotta remember is when do you get a flat road???, they usually camber off to the left anyway, and thats only if they are done right,
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #33 on: September 05, 2012, 09:14:47 PM »

what you gotta remember is when do you get a flat road???, they usually camber off to the left anyway, and thats only if they are done right,

thats to do with rain soak away isnt it?? theyve done a road by us at 20 degrees left camber to stop the flooding its so weird to drive/ride on
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #34 on: September 05, 2012, 09:23:34 PM »

A little off topic, but the road to our local corner shop in the next village has a bloody awful surface -all sorts of changes in camber, ripples & stuff. Every time I drive down it I'm convinced I've got a puncture.
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andyrennison
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« Reply #35 on: September 05, 2012, 09:54:44 PM »

Thats all very reassuring. As a first builder I was worrying how much my inaccuracies would matter, so was being a bit over cautious. In the end I checked with a line through the headstock to check that the distance from the headstock to the top caliper plate bolt was identicalon both sides, and made sure the axle was perfectly level with the build table.

I figured if the headstock to axle triangle was equal and the axle was parallel to the floor then it would be ok
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scannerzer
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« Reply #36 on: September 05, 2012, 10:06:30 PM »

As Andy said very reassuring I really appreciate the feedback on this as a new builder it is good to
know that I'm not heading in the wrong direction.

Thanks again

Eddie
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #37 on: September 05, 2012, 10:21:54 PM »

Obviously, I'm not advocating sloppy building, (Gawd knows there's enough of those machines on the roads already), & you should be as accurate as possible, cos at the end of the day, it's your arse in the saddle -but we're talking about little hardtail Reliants here. They're bumpy, bouncy, noisy -but fun. The basicness is half the attraction.
Take all the advice you can get, learn from the experience of others, (& borrow their skills if yours aren't up to the job), & build the best you can -but enjoy it.  
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nabsim
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« Reply #38 on: September 06, 2012, 01:58:36 PM »

My eyes arent really up to reading 1mm on a tape measure now Smiley
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ROD
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« Reply #39 on: September 06, 2012, 05:27:34 PM »

Ha! Youre so right Nabsim! My eyes move all over the place trying to read the smaller markings!
 Just my 2p...I measured the diagonals dozens of times to get it right! Even had a slight sag in the tape making a difference.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #40 on: September 06, 2012, 09:39:13 PM »

Yeah, I usually measure everything from the centre of the top of the headstock, taking as many different measurements as I can & re-checking after almost every weld, (better to tweak as you go than final weld everything then discover it's crept out of true).
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #41 on: September 07, 2012, 08:29:30 AM »

one measurement that is important is from a point on the rear hubs to front whell spindle, if there good it will drive straight, even if the rest of the frame is twisted to hell. not spreading the heat when welding of course with change every diamention you measured when tacking Wink
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scannerzer
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« Reply #42 on: September 07, 2012, 08:53:23 AM »

That's good to know OAB that isn't a measurement I would have taken  Undecided
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scannerzer
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« Reply #43 on: September 16, 2012, 11:09:01 AM »

A little more progress!
 
I managed to borrow a tool to help me check the alignment of the headstock from a friend who used to build
chop's and had made it up as part of his frame jig.It is basically two tapered cones with a threaded hole in the centre into which screws a 19 mm threaded bar. We marked a centre line on the floor aligned the bar
on to the centre line on the floor where the front wheel would be and a plumb line from the back of the threaded bar also to align with the line on the floor.

I hope that makes sense but maybe the photo's will help  Smiley
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scannerzer
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« Reply #44 on: September 16, 2012, 11:13:40 AM »

More pics

we built a wooden frame jig so as to know the front and rear are pointing in the same direction

and also tried several way of notching pipe. Rod let's just say tube mitre rock's!!!
Thanks for that one.
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