Manky's XS650 Yamaha

[Manky Monkey]

And at the front end, it fouls on one of the side panel mounting bolt, (bottom rear). Not sure how much sideways movement there is on modern chains, but it's pretty tight to the side of the electrics box. Cutting into that for more clearance would mean fairly major surgery & repainting, but hopefully just removing the bolt will be enough. I think I can achieve that by replacing it with a stud welded to the inside face of the side panel.
I'm also tempted to try a sprung chain tensioner mounted off the bottom frame cross member.

[morrag]

Mr M use a standard split link, you really don't need a riveted chain on a some what "cookin'", not being disrespectful! just fact, motor like yours. We only ever riveted race chains back in the day, although I accept that the awesome torque that many modern Japanese offerings develop now days, well....Just keep a spare in your pocket, she'll be right. The reason the chains "clunkier" is that its possibly an "o" ringed chain, Morrag

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, it is O ringed -new fangled technology to me. I wondered whether I could buy a split link for a heavy duty chain like this. In my far off youth, we all carried spare split links in the pocket of our Belstaffs, along with bits of wire, spare bulbs etc -which makes me wonder if we lost a lot of links. Only remember it happening to one mate once.

[Olds]

Thought it looked like a 116 link run   Must be something wrong with my formula.
Dam'n that's a wide chain. I know it was expensive but perhaps getting a std width Renolds chain would save all the hassle of modifying the bike (and it would be blue/black).

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, I'm wondering if I bought in haste. Can't take it back cos the link's already partly split, but it might suit Tom's or Archie's.
I think the chainguard mount would need modifying anyway but standard width chain would give more clearance at the front end. It's way chunkier than anything I've had before.

[morrag]

From the pics it looks like 530 spec. chain, which is 5/8"x3/8", when a 520 spec. 5/8"x1/4" would have been more suitable, Mr M, as its that much narrower, and more than adequate, provided of course that your sprockets will accept a 1/4" chain width! Can you not re-rivet and take it back to the dealer to swap for the 1/4" width chain? Morrag

[Olds]

530 should be the std size but 520 conversion sprockets are available.
Think that old fashioned 530 was 13/16" wide at the rivets. o-ring chain is wider by about 1/8" and I believe that x-ring chain is wider still at about 1" overall.
If I remember rightly, to fit an o-ring chain to some bike such as the Norton Commando that had a 530 as standard, you have to convert to  520 sprockets and chain to get over clearance problems at the gearbox.

[Dslam]

I would think about the 520 conversion and a non O ring chain.
Modern chains are so much stronger (do a little research) and the 520 non o ring should give you the clearance you need.
You may find 530 non o ring OK as it will be about 3mm narrower without the O rings. Try looking up motocross chain. Might save some surgery elsewhere on the bike.
Both my blown 750 and the 500 Triumph drag bikes run 520 to give me clearance past the rear slick.

[Manky Monkey]

Thanks guys. O.K, I've ordered a D.I.D 530 chain. I think the chainguard mount would foul on any size chain, so I'll re-think that, but hopefully the slimmer chain will clear the side panel.
Hopefully the bigger chain will fit Tom's XS, which has a black & gold colour scheme.
Really not enjoying either of my builds at the moment & seem to be going round in circles, constantly re-working things. Looking forward to being able to just use them in the Spring.

[Firery Fred]

Might need to go down the "thinner" chain route myself....aaaah

[Manky Monkey]

New chain's arrived. A more "standard" DID 530. Hopefully that'll do the job.
Also got a pack of new clutch friction plates in the Post today -may as well replace them while the clutch is apart.

[Manky Monkey]

New chain cut to length, (thanks Mr Olds for the use of your chain splitter), & temporarily held with the split link. Temporarily because it's going to have to come off again. I've hacksawed the rear chainguard mount off, so it doesn't foul on the chain any more, but I'm definitely going to have to saw a slice off the bottom edge of the electrics box & modify the side panel -again. Just not enough clearance. Not the end of the World, just another job to do. A very slow, tedious job though, cos I've got no power supply in the garage so will have to sit with a junior hacksaw & a file for several hours & everything around it's already powder-coated & painted, so I'll have to be careful.
Fitted the chain this evening, on my way home from work after a very long & tiring day, delivering everyone's Christmasses. Having resigned myself to doing it, I picked up the hacksaw & CLICK -the rechargable LED worklight ran out of charge & the garage was plunged into darkness. Unlike traditional bulb ones, the LED lights don't gradually dim as the charge runs out, they just suddenly click off without warning. So that made the decision for me -time to go home.
Hopefully I can get this sorted over the weekend & move on.
With the side panel off, I've drawn a rough line with a white Tippex pen where I need to remove a slice of the box.

[the coppersmith]

nothing worse then the lights going out, happened several times in my working days (or nights) learnt to always have a little torch about my person. Small headlight is the best I've found, when you need to carry tools and welding gear out of a pitch black space nice to be hands free.

[Manky Monkey]

  Yeah, it always happens when you're surrounded by all the little bolts & springs you don't want to lose & you have to try & pick your way out without kicking them all over the place. The garage is behind a row of council houses in the middle of a housing estate, so there's street lights about, but it's suprising how dark it can be in there. I was working by the light of the torch app' on my mobile phone until I bought the new lamp, with an elastic band around it so I could hold it in my teeth!
Having owned half a dozen houses with garages & had the use of a barn with a car lift, plus a huge shed when I lived in Guildford, then Mr Loon's workshop for the last few years, going back to a rented lock-up garage with no power's like starting out all over again. It's not impossible, but just means every job takes 3 times longer & seems to involve taking parts off, working on them somewhere else, then bringing them back. Fine if the vehicles are finished & just need occasional maintenance, but no fun for actually building stuff.

[hunter]

Andy get yourself an old car battery, some wire a couple of crocodile clips and some 12volt downlights,
The ones they put in kitchens and bathrooms.