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Author Topic: 'Yes it's going to be a trike'  (Read 13750 times)
jevi
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« on: April 25, 2010, 06:52:19 PM »

I have finally started my trike, after a bit of a delay I've finally started.  Well when I say started I've got my original bike - Ural 650, a reliant axle (well thats what the guy who sold it to me said it was) and some steel.

All I need to do now is learn to weld! (or I could just get my mate 'Steve the welder' to do it for me)

I have been reading lots of different posts on this site (I like Triker Petes swinging arm conversion) and have a good idea what it will look like, hard tailed, single seat (might have to put a pillion on cos No 2 son has decided he will look cool being driven to school on a trike).

I will post picture asap and will try and keep posting progress reports as it progress'sss

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Clive
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« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2010, 07:09:39 PM »

Good luck with the build buddy, and keep us posted with lots of piccies!!

Clive
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Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
panthershaun
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« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2010, 07:19:04 PM »

sounds good  Cool Cool Cool
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2010, 07:20:57 PM »

Hiya Jevi. Aye, we likes piccies to look at. Makes it much easier to nick ideas from you!  Grin
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Plasticpig
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 10:31:32 PM »

If you go back a few years, you might find the Ural thread I started. It evolved into a VW though.
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jevi
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« Reply #5 on: June 14, 2010, 06:39:32 PM »

Right I hope this works this time (4th attempt to post update)

The first pic should show my starting point - 1992 Ural 650.  I've bungied on one half of a set of 3.5 gal fatboy tanks so you can see where I think the tank should sit.

In the second pic I've sat the spare wheel from the wife's car roughly where I think the rear of the trike should be (original bike has a wheelbase of approx 1500mm and I set the spare wheel to give the impression of a 200mm stretch on the back end (I took the 1700mm measurement from Manky's trike jig thread cos I'm not sure if there is a limit on how long a trike can be?)

And now silly question time!  In pic No3 are those sticky out bits rivets and what is the best way to remove them (I could do it old school style with a cold chisel but would like to be slightly subtler)

Hopefully this bloody computer won't have a fit when I press Post!
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terry t
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« Reply #6 on: June 14, 2010, 06:59:50 PM »

Hi jevi. grind them down with the angle grinder flush with the casing. then just knock them out with a punch. to get the tubes out is a bit more difficult you will need a press and blow lamp to warm it up. there are threads on here just type axle in the search bar. check out my build again type in. trike build  look for my name best of luck and you already no lots of pictures terry t
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jevi
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« Reply #7 on: June 19, 2010, 09:13:43 AM »

Alright, second stupid question

I have gathered the parts for the disc conversion (almost).  A set of ready made mouting brackets (courtesy of 'Flix'), a pair of Nova front discs (£16 + vat the pair from NPA, Leechmere Ind Est, Sunderland), a reliant axle (which is trying to cut my hands to bits as I strip it down - original brake backing plates are having to be cut off) and a set of Mk 2 Golf calipers (courtesy of the son of my local garage owner when he changes the set up on his car - hence the almost)

I have read the threads regarding gringding the corners off the reliant wheel hubs to fit the nova discs and my question is - if I haven't got access to a lathe could I use a hole saw to remove a section of the central hole on the discs or should I try yellow pages for small engineering firms?
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2010, 04:52:46 PM »

Go with the engineering firm mate.
The disc locates & centralises itself on that hole, not on the wheel studs, so it needs to be fairly accurate, otherwise it could run out of true. Also, if you make the discs fit the hub, if you need to change the disc, you'll have to do the job again. Make the hub fit the disc & you'll only have to do the job once as any standard Nova disc will then fit.
Anyone with a small lathe & the knowledge to use it will be able to machine your hubs to suit. If you can't find a local engineer maybe Doc, (Twisted Patience here on the forum), could help.
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jevi
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« Reply #9 on: June 21, 2010, 07:42:47 PM »

Thanks MM I'll have a trawl for local engineering fims.  Anyway heres the latest progress report - I have carefully removed the brake drums and backing plates from the axle (pic's 1 & 2) and split the diff to try and get the shafts out.  However after managing to break one of my hub pullers trying to remove the hubs I have resorted to dropping the split axle off at my favourite garage where they will press them off for me.

So hopefully I'll be a bit further on in my next post.

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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #10 on: June 21, 2010, 08:04:40 PM »

That's a big pile of ...stuff.
You're on your way then Jevi. Welcome to the land of 3.
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jevi
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« Reply #11 on: June 28, 2010, 11:26:52 AM »

Got the hubs off (big bang and 'young Gaz' hopping and cursing cos the axle tube when it popped completely missed his steel toecap and got him on the bridge of his foot instead).  Next job is to replace the bearings and seals before rebuilding the axle (also small matter of welding up the nice slice I put into the top of the axle tube when I was cutting off the spring mounts).

I've read Morrag's response to queries over the type of bearings used on reliants and surprise surprise mine aren't metric (RLS 8RS are 'inch') and EBR bearings don't seem to stock them.  Anyone know of any bearing suppliers in the North East?

I've also tried my hand at altering the seat rails (pics to follow) but obviously I didn't get enough penetration (story of my life) on the weld cos while I was dressing up the new rail it fell off!  Note to self 'get a proper welder to do the job'
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triker_Chewie
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« Reply #12 on: June 28, 2010, 12:24:02 PM »

completely missed his steel toecap and got him on the bridge of his foot instead)
always gets me too
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #13 on: June 29, 2010, 09:02:54 AM »

I always recommend Michaels of Selby in Yorkshire. Their details are in the Links for commercial purposes bit of the forum. They're Reliant specialists. Do fast mail order & should be able to help you.
Seriously, if you're not confident about your welding, take it to someone you trust -it's your bum in the saddle so don't take risks please.  Wink
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triker_Chewie
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« Reply #14 on: June 29, 2010, 11:54:42 PM »

practice and buy a decent mig
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there's no point it lookin' pretty if we can't drive it. 
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