|
ROD
|
 |
« on: November 06, 2009, 05:34:17 PM » |
|
Have been bleeding my rear brakes for the last 2 hours. Tried an eezi bleed kit,no success! Tried Toads method of removing the calipers and getting them as low as poss(in my case cant get the caliper bleed nipple below the master)No success! Have used 2 bottles of fluid! Air comes out of the bleed tube every 3 or 4 pumps of the pedal,but still havent got any sort of 'pedal' !
Could air be being sucked in ,but fluid not leaking out? All joints are dry and clean!
Does the reverse bleed with a syringe work?
Anyone know of any sealer that is effective?
Going to strip the whole brake system down tomorrow and start again!
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 06, 2009, 05:36:08 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
tbone
|
|
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2009, 05:52:23 PM » |
|
In what order are you bleeding things? I`d start with the master cylinder then the front caliper and finaly the rears. If it is just the rears that are playing up,open the nipples, jack the back end up, leave it a few hours then bleed it still in the air. If all connections are good you won`t be drawing air in.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2009, 05:56:54 PM » |
|
Order= m/cyl union,front calipers,t pieces between m/cyl and rear . Longest run to rear ,shortest run to rear. The way I see it is that there must be air getting in somewhere,so will re do the whole system tamara.TBH I'm not happy with how some of the hard line runs look,but was leaving it to get it road tested . Think I'll take this opportunity to tidy up the whole thing.I'll use stiffer tube ,so that when I remove the lines they wont go out of shape before I re fit them on the last strip and build.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 06, 2009, 06:05:01 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
gsxrsam
Sr. Member
Karma: 4
Posts: 283
|
|
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2009, 08:26:27 PM » |
|
if nipples are not a good fit on threads they will draw air, try a smidge of plumbers tape on threads see if it improves...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
i have decided to live forever or die trying
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2009, 08:38:57 PM » |
|
Had another go ,but still no joy. Had a proper measure up today and am ordering all the proper stainless lines tamara,then I'll have a solid base to work on ,as at present ,its new ,but looks tatty.
Ive been told to grease the nipple threads to prevent air getting in when bleeding.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 08, 2009, 08:40:52 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BikerGran
Hero Member
Karma: 94
Posts: 10604
Gran Turismo
|
|
« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2009, 08:58:46 PM » |
|
I've never been able to bleed my Superdream or GT550 brakes succesfully - until I bungee them up and leave them overnight which seems to do the trick.
But bleeding the rear (Reliant) brakes on the trike, on the other hand, is easy!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2009, 05:14:37 PM » |
|
This is where Im at so far............Replaced all copper washers on banjos ,stopped weeping from unions. Bled whole system (many times) still no pedal. Pump pedal a few times fluid in m/cyl goes down.release pedal,fluid comes back up in m/cyl.Close the brake balance valve .Instant solid pedal and front brakes work fine.All this seems to point to air in the rear part of the system,BUT,no amount of bleeding will get the air out(if it is in there!)Run out of fluid now ,so gotta get more . Ive also removed the balance valve from the system by bridging with a piece of pipe to see if its that! Seriously p****ed off ,and really cant be arsed anymore!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
tbone
|
|
« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2009, 05:25:08 PM » |
|
C`mon mate keep at it! How are you doing the bleeding process? Step by step, what are you doing?
You mention pumping the pedal so i assume the rear caliper pistons have moved out to position the pads against the discs?
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 21, 2009, 05:27:16 PM by tbone »
|
Logged
|
NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2009, 05:29:52 PM » |
|
Bled fronts,at nipple at headset . Bled at front calipers. bled at nipple connected to T about 9" from m/cyl. Bled furthest rear caliper,then nearest rear caliper.Air comes out ,then just fluid at each bleed point . Repeat process 3 times still nothing.
TBH Ive tried so many ways ,Im now confused about what I have done!
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 21, 2009, 05:32:01 PM by ROD »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
tbone
|
|
« Reply #9 on: November 21, 2009, 05:37:39 PM » |
|
Sorry mate, i wanna know how your bleeding, not what order. I take it you have help with it?
How is your bias valve set when you do the rears?
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 21, 2009, 06:21:46 PM by tbone »
|
Logged
|
NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #10 on: November 21, 2009, 08:04:05 PM » |
|
The bias valve is set full open when bleeding....open nipple 1/8 or 1/4 turn ,depress pedal,close nipple,raise pedal.etc etc . Another time I tried pushing fluid from the nipple to the m/cyl with a syringe,then bleeding as above. Ive also bought an eazi bleed kit ,but although I got fluid coming out the nipples ,I couldnt get a good seal on the m/cyl,so gave up on that one.the bias valve is puzzling me. I get a better pedal if the valve is say,half wound in ,the fronts lock on ,but the rear pistons dont move.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
spanners
|
|
« Reply #11 on: November 21, 2009, 08:29:22 PM » |
|
wherabouts are you rod?  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
|
|
|
|
tbone
|
|
« Reply #12 on: November 21, 2009, 08:40:27 PM » |
|
I`ll state the obvious......ditch the valve. Well for now anyway, its gotta be time to start eliminating componants.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
|
|
|
|
terry t
|
|
« Reply #13 on: November 21, 2009, 08:49:14 PM » |
|
hi rod. what master cylinder are you using. is it new or second hand. when you press the peddle down is it a positive pressure of fluid coming out or a dribble. i had the same problem with mine tried everything. it turned out to be the master cylinder washers. fluid passing the 1st washer. pop the dust cover of a see if its damp
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #14 on: November 21, 2009, 08:57:54 PM » |
|
Ive ditched the valve,still no good!
Im in Essex.
m/cyl is new ,but am considering borrowing one to swop over temporarily.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
