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brock
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« on: January 04, 2009, 04:01:27 PM » |
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When buiding a new race car, the first thing to do is set out seat angle,where the accelerator pedal needs to be,height of roll cage and on a slingshot (Black Pig Too will be a sling shot) position of rear axle (driver sits behind this).
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brock
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2009, 04:07:17 PM » |
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Next take The Black Pig and completely strip it.
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brock
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2009, 06:28:59 PM » |
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Next completely strip the engine ready for a rebuild.
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
Karma: 264
Posts: 55102
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« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2009, 06:33:24 PM » |
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Taz has got a Charger engine in similar condition -& no instructions.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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brock
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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2009, 06:35:56 PM » |
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Why do you need instructions? That's what Brock's for if you catch him on a good day  |
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tazet
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2009, 06:37:55 PM » |
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Yup that does look like my engine and it's in just as may pieces  When you re-build it can you do a photographic step by step process so I'll know what to do please.  |
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brock
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« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2009, 06:59:43 PM » |
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First take a length of 1 1/4" CDS,cut to 18",chuck in lathe and reduce to 1 1/8th for 1/2" each end.
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« Last Edit: February 14, 2009, 10:59:56 PM by brock »
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brock
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2009, 07:10:46 PM » |
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Take a piece of 1/4" bright drawn and set out 1 3/8th centre hole and 3 M6 threaded holes on 2 1/2" PCD. Allow 1/2 hole diameter around holes and join with 3" blended radi, then just make 2 of them.
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« Last Edit: January 12, 2009, 09:49:30 PM by brock »
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brock
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2009, 07:16:59 PM » |
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Next take a piece of 1/4" bright drawn and set out 1 3/8th hole with 1 3/4" surrounding and 1/2" hole with 1" surrounding at 4 1/2" centre separation. Join the extreme radial points and chop it out. There's the leading links done.
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brock
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« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2009, 07:20:32 PM » |
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Now take some 1/8th bright drawn and set out a similar profile to the end plates, drill the 3 holes 6.5MM and cut out. That's the end caps.
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brock
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« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2009, 07:24:55 PM » |
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Weld the bits that need welding and assemble, easy.
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brock
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« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2009, 07:40:24 PM » |
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Now the tricky bit, first spend some hours draughting the axle, KPI, spindle assembly and wheel's relationships then take a piece of 1 5/8" CDS and bend it to suit your resultant drawing. Machine two bosses to suit the Ford Pop spindles and using an old Pop axle as a jig fit the bosses to the axle tube and weld.
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brock
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« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2009, 08:04:10 PM » |
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....realise why no none uses such a severe drop without a serpentine axle end and modify the joint so that the spindles will go on. These needed the top of the tube cut off flat and a plate welded in to allow the spindles to turn.
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« Last Edit: January 04, 2009, 08:05:41 PM by brock »
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brock
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2009, 08:11:40 PM » |
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set the axle up with the spindles attached and realise that the standard steering arms also foul on the deep drop tube, wonder why you bothered to draw it first, ponder it all for a while and then get the gas axe to it, heat the arms and reset so that they clear then spend an hour or so making sure that you have actually made a pair, not just two that fit.
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brock
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« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2009, 08:16:41 PM » |
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....machine a couple of tapered spacers to fit into the steering arms, attach a couple of spherical rod ends, machine a couple of threaded inserts to suit 3/4" tube and make the connecting link
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