Back brakes

[scannerzer]

Sorry do not know what you mean by an idler.

In ON's diagram no 3 uses an idler to change the direction and ratio of leverage the pedal applys to the m/c

[kapri]

A better solution is something like this. It would keep the MC clear of the exhausts & make checking easy. Perhaps on a bracket mounted on the foot peg/brake lever mounting.

Exactly what I would do Dave !

I'm struggling with how this gets so complicated as Reliant have done the job for 'you' surely ?. Brakes work on a Reliant so fit same m/c ad pedal ratio and it will work again ??  Only difference is the pedal will travel slightly less as it doesn't have to move fluid to the ( single ) front brake as well.

[Olds]

I'm struggling with how this gets so complicated as Reliant have done the job for 'you' surely ?. Brakes work on a Reliant so fit same m/c ad pedal ratio and it will work again ??  Only difference is the pedal will travel slightly less as it doesn't have to move fluid to the ( single ) front brake as well.

This seems to be a regular problem, mainly on converted bike trikes, where trying to use the original brake pedal and finding a way of mounting the MC, are not fully thought through. Even by some, 'professional trike builders'.
Reliant rear brakes should be perfectly adequate for most bike trikes. I believe that the now famous, disc brake conversion, was originally done for aesthetics and the 'why not' reason.

[BikerGran]

My setup is more or less as number 3.  I've never had problems with it till I had the brake linings renewed recently and the pedal wasn't set up right and the brakes kept locking on.  Sorted now.

[shadowryder]

O.N. what you say is very true and is indded my problem,There is no where near the pedal to mouny a M/c,and where i am mounting them the linkages back to the pedal are far to long a with too much play.

[Olds]

not sure where the free play would be coming from.
Was your bike a drum brake model?  If so the standard rod linkage (modified) should be OK when used with a bell crank (idler) as in diagram 3.
You shouldn't need much space between the pedal and frame to forward mount a MC. Having said that making a new pedal may make it easier.
I think is should be possible  to fabricate a suitable mount, between the footboard mounting point and the frame, but without seeing the trike it is difficult to judge.

[morrag]

This problem habitually rears its troubled head! but fortunately there is a deal of clear thinking on the subject,here, as illustrated here in this current diatribe, but a synopsis would be...Reliant did not install a rear braking system on their vehicles, not for it to work!! it was also capable of satisfying the MOT requirements of the Reliant as a car, both 3&4 wheeled variety, capable of carrying,(and stopping!),up to 4 Adult passengers, so..............replicate the Master cylinder configuration, as per original, and "Bingo", simples. I have installed a few trike rear ends using this philosophy, and like BG, no probs. I have also installed the disc brake conversion, which is also OK,looks higher tech. but frankly is no better,or effective, in my estimation, than the orig. drums, for a trike! So folks, stop trying to reinvent the wheel, back to basics as per "Mr Reliant Robin's" system, and it WILL work, honest ;)Morrag

[kapri]

I'm not alover of rear brake conversions but seems to be the 'hot ticket' on most vehicles out there ? Under heavy braking something like 80% plus is done on the front of the vehicle due to weight transfer . However this becomes 100% if the rears aren't working ! LOL

Main adavantage of discs over drums is fade resistance but ,as Morrag says, I reckon it's overkill on a trike which usually weighs about half a Reliant.

[BikerGran]

As you'll discover Mr Kapri - you need the rear brakes on a trike to work cos if you brake hard with front brake only, the rear has a worrying tendency to try to overtake the front!

 

[kapri]

I still have lessons to learn re trikes Bobbi 

[digger06]

I have also installed the disc brake conversion, which is also OK,looks higher tech. but frankly is no better,or effective, in my estimation, than the orig. drums, for a trike! So folks, stop trying to reinvent the wheel, back to basics as per "Mr Reliant Robin's" system, and it WILL work, honest ;)Morrag

built quite a few trikes now, and absolutely agree with morrag on the above,,,,

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, you're right, when I came up with the Vauxhall/Golf disc conversion for Reliants, it was mainly for it's looks & partly because I could. They are indeed about the same efficiency as the original drums, (which are Mini units aren't they?).
I haven't built a trike for a few years now so haven't put one through the MSVA, but my last couple had linked brakes, (the original draft of the MSVA regs called for all trikes to have linked brakes, though this was later removed). As Bobbi says, the majority of the braking needs to be done with the rear brakes -if the front wheel locks up, you lose your steering. For that reason I used to deliberately under brake the front end by removing a disc if 2 were fitted & using old 1970s calipers which were less efficient. Having since discovered brake bias valves, that would obviously be the sensible option. Set all 3 brakes evenly for the test, then re-set with a rear end bias afterwards, (bearing in mind adjustable valves have to be locked in one position for the test).
Too much speed or over braking into a corner will see your 2 rear wheels pushing your single front wheel straight on, across the corner & into the ditch on the other side -if you're lucky. Into the oncoming tractor if you're not. Trike riding's nothing like bike riding. They all behave differently, so be very careful on those maiden voyages chaps until you get to know your particular steed's limits.   

[kapri]

On the car BIVA test the fronts MUST lock before the rears ,strange things these trikes eh ? 

[shadowryder]

Well all, thanks for your comments and advice,I have over the past 2 days with much head scratching,grinding and welding and grinding again managed to fit a Girling M/C to the foot plate right next to the pedal and have rigged up an idler set up,I am getting 2/3rds travel on my pedal and full travel on the rod of the cylinder,
I still have to get it all piped up and the brakes adjusted and bled,but based on Morrags previous comment I have done as he suggested and got it as near to origional system as I can.
I should have took photos while doing it but me head was twizzled trying to work it out.
have done a sketch for you,
All you see is UNDERNEATH the footplate,Red M/c obviously,Blue steel plate,Green Idler ,Yellow brake pedal..
Hope you can understand it.

[Olds]

Hope that this works for you. With the MC so low a RPV might be a good idea. Do you still have enough ground clearance?

Too much speed or over braking into a corner will see your 2 rear wheels pushing your single front wheel straight on, across the corner & into the ditch on the other side -if you're lucky. Into the oncoming tractor if you're not. Trike riding's nothing like bike riding. They all behave differently, so be very careful on those maiden voyages chaps until you get to know your particular steed's limits.   

Narrow motorcycle tyre combined with two big disc brakes and a wet greasy roundabout. Not a fun learning situation.
Personally I wouldn't fit linked brakes unless I had to. Thought about it for a while but I like the flexibility of independent front and rear brakes