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scannerzer
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« Reply #225 on: April 06, 2013, 10:53:02 PM » |
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axle location and rear bumper today  A little progress drilled the rear axle clamp  A little progress and welded a pin to the axle to stop any possibility of the axle turning in the clamps  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress bent up the rear bumper  A little progress and welded it in place covering the axle locating pins making them invisable  A little progress turned down 2 bar ends  A little progress and now have them fitted to the bars but my phone battery ran flat so no photo's  hopefully get some in the morning
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steven brock
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« Reply #226 on: April 07, 2013, 09:35:48 AM » |
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I was thinking of drilling and tapping mine m8 later
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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scannerzer
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« Reply #227 on: April 07, 2013, 10:27:28 AM » |
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it's just a precaution as the clamps are so tight i don't think they would move anyway, are you going to drill the axle and tap it?
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« Last Edit: April 07, 2013, 10:38:30 AM by scannerzer »
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Olds
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« Reply #228 on: April 07, 2013, 10:42:53 AM » |
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it's just a precaurtion as the clamps are so tight i don't think they would move anyway,
I thought that, until my foot slipped off the clutch! Now I have 1/2" square bars welded to the tubes locating into slots in the front clamp sections 
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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steven brock
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« Reply #229 on: April 07, 2013, 01:56:55 PM » |
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it's just a precaution as the clamps are so tight i don't think they would move anyway, are you going to drill the axle and tap it?
Yeah I may do then use a socket button cap screw to finish
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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morrag
Hero Member
   
Karma: 49
Posts: 2875
Carpe diem!
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« Reply #230 on: April 07, 2013, 03:38:13 PM » |
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That's why I always use this type of welded bracket to locate the axle! never had a prob. Morrag
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Beware the Ides of March, But!
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scannerzer
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« Reply #231 on: April 07, 2013, 09:45:05 PM » |
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 A little progress made a spacer from this to hold the bottom bearing in the headstock tight,didn't get picture of the spacer as the phone was flat   A little progress then made a cover to hide the spacer  A little progress the steering stop and lock will be fitted to this  A little progress  A little progress bar ends and hand controls fitted
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
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« Reply #232 on: April 07, 2013, 10:02:27 PM » |
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Fine progress Sir!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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andyrennison
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« Reply #233 on: April 07, 2013, 10:33:13 PM » |
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Going like a rocket!
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #234 on: April 07, 2013, 10:36:01 PM » |
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Whoosh!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Olds
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« Reply #235 on: April 08, 2013, 05:06:41 AM » |
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At this rate he'll be finished in no time Nice one Eddie.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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scannerzer
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« Reply #236 on: April 08, 2013, 05:59:56 AM » |
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Thanks guys 
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #238 on: April 08, 2013, 02:01:29 PM » |
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Baffled me too Pete -so I stopped thinking about it.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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andyrennison
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« Reply #239 on: April 08, 2013, 02:58:43 PM » |
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The rod through the chassis sleve is at the same level as the point of rotation of the original gearstick ball. The upper rod is pivoted, so depressing the gear knowb raises the original stick and vice versa. The pivot arm moves forwards and backwards in tandem with the new gear stick, this provides an extra push pull on the original gear stick. The new gear stick can move up and down.
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared
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