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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1565023 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3255 on: June 16, 2011, 08:49:00 PM »

No shows for me till it's done now. Well, maybe the Nostalgia Nationals drag races next weekend, but that's it.
Spent the morning trudging the streets, delivering the mail in the pouring rain. So by the time I got to the workshop I'd definitely lost my building mojo for the day.
Not a complete waste though, as Loony & I drove out to the village of Hook, to visit Phunkie Hiboy's workshop. Nice to see you Chris & many thanks for the Harley fork oil. We'll drain the Morris Minor lever arm shocks on the front of the truck & refill them with that, (30 weight). Still not sure why the suspension droops so much with the weight of one person in it. We need to narrow it down to either front or rear of the vehicle, then try & cure it somehow.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
poprodder
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« Reply #3256 on: June 16, 2011, 09:16:39 PM »

what front spring did you fit?
if original pop factor in that it could be knackered.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3257 on: June 16, 2011, 09:31:43 PM »

It's brand new. Made by "Speedway", (American rod products supplier). The spring shackles & perches came from them too. 
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poprodder
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« Reply #3258 on: June 16, 2011, 10:15:51 PM »

well hopefully thats off the list then!!!!
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kapri
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« Reply #3259 on: June 17, 2011, 07:45:19 AM »

The problem with the 'list' will be coilover rear shock mounts too far inboard and to close to each other . Gives the same effect and getting into a Relian Robin facing the wrong way Shocked .
I had teh same problem on a Y roadster I was involved with years back. We had to fit an antiroll bar to solve as there was no way of redoing the mounts.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3260 on: June 17, 2011, 09:15:48 PM »

O.K Kev, that's kinda the direction we were heading in.
So, if we can alter the mounts, how should we be doing them? I assume the angles about right? (30 degrees I think). Will a few inches further outboard either side make much difference? We might be able to move them to the inside face of the chassis side rails with the bottom mounts moved to suit too.
if not, it looks like the anti rollbar's the next option.
I took the front shocks off today & drained the oil, flushing them through with petrol, ready to refill with the heavier stuff. Also did a bit more exhaust pipe filing, before calling it a day, (got soaked again on my Postal delivery this morning so headed home early).
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kapri
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« Reply #3261 on: June 18, 2011, 09:24:43 AM »

The more upright the coilover the higher the effective rate of the springs ie spring rate of 200lbs is only true if shocker bolt up right , leaning at 45 degrees it only works as a 100lb rate.

The further out the coilovers, from the diff, the less the wheel travel before it starts to operate, all to do with leverage effect vs ratios.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3262 on: June 18, 2011, 06:59:00 PM »

Ah, I see.
I had a look at the axle this afternoon. I could move the shocks outboard by about 7 inches either side, but it would mean completely refabricating the chassis cross member they currently mount to & making up top mounts on the outside face of the chassis, (would that be O.K?). I'd also have to chop off the fully welded bottom mounts on the axle.
Personally, that's the way I'd rather go, but lack of time means I'll scout about the 'net for a suitable anti rollbar first.
I refilled the front lever arm dampers today & bolted them back on the chassis. Then I realised we'd set them up with the arms in the horizontal position -all upwards movement & no downwards travel. So I've measured up with the arms in the halfway position & Mr Dslam is very kindly going to machine me some new, longer drop arms.
Loony & I also stamped the VIN number into the chassis. Front, right side, top face, as required. Took  a couple of attempts, with bits of bar clamped to the chassis leg to act as a guide, & grinding it off again, before we gave up & just whacked 'em in by eye. Not quite perfectly straight or perfectly indented, but they'll do the job.
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terry t
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« Reply #3263 on: June 18, 2011, 08:50:12 PM »

Personally, that's the way I'd rather go, but lack of time means I'll scout about the 'net for a suitable anti rollbar first.

Andy by the time you found a roll bar. welded the brackets on and any other alteration and set it up.would it not be quicker to alter the shocks
« Last Edit: June 18, 2011, 08:52:07 PM by terry t » Logged
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3264 on: June 18, 2011, 10:44:39 PM »

You could be right Terry.
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kapri
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« Reply #3265 on: June 19, 2011, 09:20:29 PM »

Yup, I'd go with Terry as well.

Err, I take it you've blanked off some of that VIN ?
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3266 on: June 19, 2011, 10:41:14 PM »

Nah, I painted it with custard. Yeah, VIN number's 17 digits long, as you know Kev.
So welding the top shock mounts to the outside of the chassis rails is O.K? I'll check tomorrow to make sure they'll clear the wheel arches. I reckon I could re-work the current mounts in the cross member, then replace the whole member. Biggest job will be chopping the bottom mounts off the axle & re-positioning them.
Loony ain't gonna be happy -I'm blaming you lot.
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spanners
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« Reply #3267 on: June 20, 2011, 12:35:30 AM »

i say live with it  awhile ===================================untill after the dreaded SVA then try the change,s -------just think about more you should know it,ll make more sense  Wink
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kapri
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« Reply #3268 on: June 20, 2011, 07:32:32 AM »

Spanners has an even better plan, blade on with what you've got to do for SVA and if any time left sort it out then.
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Archie
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« Reply #3269 on: June 20, 2011, 09:14:44 AM »

Mate echoing what the 2 above have said. Why don't you literally get it sva rough and ready and sort it afterwards. That way you can take as much time as you like without stressing on a deadline.
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