my trike re-build

[big jay 257]

well im hoping this weekend to get the exhaust set up and make a start on the wiring loom then i can do a test run of the engine with the gravity feed

[big jay 257]

had a productive day today, got all the bits off the rear that i dont want, made the gussets for the headstock and welded them in got key cut so i have spare for ignition and fuel cap and took some photos

my trike re-build

my trike re-build

my trike re-build

my trike re-build

my trike re-build

my trike re-build

just waiting on a delivery of tube and a bender then i can make the seat rails

[snafu]

May have lost to plot here but has that changed from rear engined mini auto to reliant?

[terry t]

May have lost to plot here but has that changed from rear engined mini auto to reliant?

No you have not lost it snafu.
theres are two trike builds.the reliants jay.the rear engine one is hes dads

[big jay 257]

lol quite right terry got a fresh engine for the mini going from 850cc to a full 998cc will be going in over the winter months

[RODeo]

Just a thought.......are you going to change the clutch lever to the opposite side of the bellhousing ?

[big jay 257]

allready done just havent cut the other one off yet lol
nice little cluch operating rod i made

my trike re-build

also a carb relocaion jobbie

my trike re-build

and front mudguard mount

my trike re-build

[RODeo]

Another thought....Make sure you have a return spring on the clutch arm to keep the chain taught,as well as keeping the thrust race off the clutch plate .

[big jay 257]

Another thought....Make sure you have a return spring on the clutch arm to keep the chain taught,as well as keeping the thrust race off the clutch plate .

cheers for that hadnt thought about keeping thrust race off the clutch, chain is welded along the inner edge so it is in effect a solid rod ,, i like when people pop in suggestions,, as shown here i missed summat lol

[RODeo]

Not trying to be picky,just trying to help!...I fitted a spring between the end of the clutch arm and the x-member immediately behind it. You only really need about 4mm of play to keep the thrust race clear.
 On the old A35's,which are basically the same g/box and use the same type of thrust race etc the recommended play,overall,allowing for a bit of slop in the linkages is ,I think, 3/8" at the pedal.They have quite a chunky return spring,but a lighter one is ok for the reliant (I experimented a lot!)especially as your foot may ache with the pressure of a heavy spring!
  Rod

[big jay 257]

really appreciate the heads up rod,, i accept that i may miss things as this is my first project of this kind, and as iv taken on someone elses start and im re-doing 90% of the work i may miss/toss up and not see it, so any input/criticism is good for me i will not be offended if anything i welcome the input of others

[zakboy]

really appreciate the heads up rod,, i accept that i may miss things as this is my first project of this kind, and as iv taken on someone elses start and im re-doing 90% of the work i may miss/toss up and not see it, so any input/criticism is good for me i will not be offended if anything i welcome the input of others

well spoken jay, this is what its all about, to help and learn from one another and to help us pick up on things that we may have over looked, there is always more than one way of approaching a particular job, input is always encouraging, constructive criticism is a good thing makes us stop and think again at the way we are going about our projects,which all leads to a much safer and enjoyable end result,....keep up the good work as I'm sure when your project is finished there will be things to learn and pick up on that will be useful to other members thinking of starting similar kinds of projects.  zak

[RODeo]

I agree! Ive built cars in the past,but without the wealth of trike knowledge on this forum I would never have been able to get as far with my build.I've learnt loads,mainly by asking the most basic Q's!