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Author Topic: Reliant Disc brake conversion  (Read 243178 times)
zakboy
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« Reply #270 on: June 24, 2011, 09:11:07 AM »

me 'gen!!

yeah, i'm an insomniac!!

i've just experimented by slackening the diff side stud nuts, leaving a gap of barely 1/2mm between the diff halves, and now everything spins totally freely and super smooth!!

whats wrong??

theres no gasket between halves, but dont know if theres meant to be,

and as soon as i tighten the diff halves up again,literally enough to just close the spring washers, the axle goes stiff and lumpy again!

the lumpyness feels like the crown wheel teeth.

is one of the crown wheel bearings not down on its seat far enough?

should i be removing a shim or three from crown wheel bearings?
if so, what side?

gets worse when i tighten down the shorter side of axle, with the flat diff casting.

oh bugger!

i've got to try and get the shafyts out again, havnt i??

lev


Another thought, just to start with there is no gasket between the two faces of the diff housing,if you don't know the history of the axle you have,at some point it may have had a shaft changed,some reliant shafts all though they fit are longer than others, and if you have one that is longer than the other one, the longer one will only fit one side of the axle correctly, what i would do is remove the shafts to see if there the same length and at the same time remember as you remove each shaft witch side each shaft came from then swap them round, on the xj900 project we had a simler prob when we had to replace one of the shafts the replacement one was longer and we landed up having to cut a good few mm off the diff end of the replacement shaft to free it up and get it moving smoothly, the shafts can vary in length from a few mm up to about an inch we had one that was about an inch longer than the other so we could not get a way with swaping them round and had to resort to cuting the longer one down at the diff end, if this is the prob you have as you can close the diff housing it could be that you have one that is just a few mm longer and it will have come to rest against the pinion inside the diff making it tight,  swaping them round may do the trick  .....or in short you can fit to short shafts in to a single axle but if one is longer than the other they will only fit one way round,  all the best zak
« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 12:37:01 PM by zakboy » Logged

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LEVVIN
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« Reply #271 on: June 24, 2011, 08:56:29 PM »

thanks for replies bros!!

1/ the axle has not been fitted to my frame permanently yet.
2/ the 12mm u bolts havnt been dogged up tightly, just slight nip to check axle clearances
3/ i have moved the reinforcing plates inboard to line up with u bolts-carefully MIG'd!!
4/ the frame is dead true, had a suzuki carry axle aboard(5.8-1 ratio-yuk!)
5/ there is no spacer in pinion at moment, but making one asap-problem isnt on pinion, but when diff tightened.

will seperate diff tomoz, im dreading getting shafts out again!! real tight fitting!

i'll take off 3-4mm off the ends of both shafts to make sure (if this is ok?)

i'll check if diff bearings are seated correctly

i'll close up diff without shafts to check if free without shafts in.

if pinion turns tight when no shafts, i'll take out a shim or two behind differential bearings to see if that cures it.
brand new bearings throughout.

regards
lev

 
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tbone
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« Reply #272 on: June 25, 2011, 11:45:20 AM »

I think you`ve answered your own problem......
The axle would be shimmed to the old bearings, replacement bearings stand more than a good chance of being fractionally wider than the originals.

Oh and hopefully the plates you mention were sold to you by Gaz, a forum member  Wink
« Last Edit: June 25, 2011, 12:00:41 PM by tbone » Logged

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LEVVIN
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« Reply #273 on: June 25, 2011, 04:53:07 PM »

cured !!

took out shims behind diff bearings bar one each, and runs like silk!!

and got plates off ebay, not called gaz im afraid.

chap doing lots of laser cut stuff.

lev
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tbone
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« Reply #274 on: July 18, 2011, 11:02:38 AM »

PDF file for the mounting plate. Make sure you printer is set to print 1:1 scale Wink
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dobber
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« Reply #275 on: July 19, 2011, 12:48:29 PM »

just picked up an axle won on ebay with the disc conversion. its had the thicker nova discs on so they have put a 2 washer spacer on carrier mount. will this be ok or do i need the thinner disc. can the thicker disc be lathed down. prob cheaper to get thin ones??. got a full coversion kit as it were, as only needed axle tubes. whats it worth for hubs,discs studs, adapter plates, alloys [3of] carriers and calipers all ready to fit bar new seals on calipers
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
hunter
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« Reply #276 on: July 19, 2011, 06:37:06 PM »

I think we need some picys. Tongue
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I
dobber
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« Reply #277 on: July 20, 2011, 10:35:05 PM »

will photo n list all bits hunter. be handy purchase for someone in a rush.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
Shafty
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« Reply #278 on: August 04, 2011, 07:45:30 PM »

Anyone know what size bolts are needed to bolt carriers to caliper plates?
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steve brock
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« Reply #279 on: October 29, 2011, 07:49:38 AM »

Umm think I got same problem...


me 'gen!!

yeah, i'm an insomniac!!

i've just experimented by slackening the diff side stud nuts, leaving a gap of barely 1/2mm between the diff halves, and now everything spins totally freely and super smooth!!

whats wrong??

theres no gasket between halves, but dont know if theres meant to be,

and as soon as i tighten the diff halves up again,literally enough to just close the spring washers, the axle goes stiff and lumpy again!

the lumpyness feels like the crown wheel teeth.

is one of the crown wheel bearings not down on its seat far enough?

should i be removing a shim or three from crown wheel bearings?
if so, what side?

gets worse when i tighten down the shorter side of axle, with the flat diff casting.

oh bugger!

i've got to try and get the shafyts out again, havnt i??

lev


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gazzagood
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« Reply #280 on: October 29, 2011, 10:14:30 AM »

Hi shafty on my carriers to calliper bolts there m8 x 1.25 25mm long hope this helps

gaz
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scaz36
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gs1000g trike


« Reply #281 on: July 18, 2012, 04:08:10 PM »

hiya

im trying to fit the golf calipers to the regal axle , and i have 14" nova alloys , the calipers are hitting the wheel, im looking t fitting wheel spacers , or which size of wheels do i need and if so off which car .
my email scaz36@hotmail.com
look forward to hearing from you
lee
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zakboy
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« Reply #282 on: July 18, 2012, 05:00:04 PM »

you need at least a 15 inch wheel for this conversion  Wink
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #283 on: July 18, 2012, 06:17:08 PM »

We fitted widened 14" Morris Minor wheels to Taz's trike project, but had to fit spacers to bring the calipers out clear of the back of the wheel. They were about 1 1/2" I think, bought from Ebay. Spacer width will depend on your particular wheels, so just sit the wheel in place at a point where the calipers will clear & measure the gap between wheel & hub. Excessively wide spacers can put strain on the bearings on the drive shafts, so if the gap's too wide, you may have to move up to bigger diameter rims as Zak says.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2012, 06:21:13 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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scaz36
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gs1000g trike


« Reply #284 on: July 24, 2012, 03:54:13 PM »

thank you for that , ive now got the 15" wheels and they clear it fine.
only prob now we are having carnt get the back brakes to lock on fully ,using the master cyl from the bikes
master cyl off the front brakes,
would like to know which master cyl off a car would work or boost the pressure/flow to the rear calipers
cheers
lee
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