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Author Topic: dobbers trike  (Read 101216 times)
dobber
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« Reply #630 on: October 17, 2017, 09:43:45 PM »

also need one of the  3 small bolts / screws that holds the top of the carb on where the fuel feeds in. would any one know what thread size i need to ask for,
once again , thanks in advance.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
dobber
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« Reply #631 on: March 21, 2020, 09:36:46 PM »

Hey Andy, hows all?
could you direct me to the thread on how to stop the reliant axle spinning in its mounts ?.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #632 on: March 21, 2020, 10:10:17 PM »

Hello stranger!
Can't remember if there was a specific thread on it, but I just welded small tabs to the side of the axle clamps, with matching ones on the axle tubes. They stopped it rotating or sliding sideways in the clamp.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
Olds
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« Reply #633 on: March 22, 2020, 07:58:45 AM »

I notched the back clamps and welded corresponding lugs to the tubes.
No reason not to weld the back clamp plates to the axle, once you are sure the axle is positioned correctly. Just be cautious if using the original Reliant tubes as they are very thin. A couple of good tacks will do it and easily ground off if need be.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
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dobber
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« Reply #634 on: March 22, 2020, 07:32:31 PM »

would it be strong enough to tack the u bolts to the clamps around the axle then tack lugs on the axle to stop it moving in the clamps?
also will tacking the u bolts weaken them too much as there high tensile.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
Olds
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« Reply #635 on: March 23, 2020, 08:12:09 AM »

Forgot that you were using u bolts. No you shouldn't weld these.
Really should weld pads on the tubes, same as when fitting an axle to a leaf spring.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
dobber
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« Reply #636 on: March 30, 2020, 09:52:08 AM »

im thinking of moving the radiator to the back as its a little cluttered at the front,  anyone know if i can use 22 mm copper plumbing pipe and wrap it in something heat proof wise or other options?
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
Olds
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« Reply #637 on: March 30, 2020, 01:45:07 PM »

No problem in using copper pipe.  Solder compression olives to the ends to stop the rubber pipes sliding off. Why cover it ?
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
dobber
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« Reply #638 on: March 30, 2020, 02:22:56 PM »

couple of places where i need to route it that may be too close  to flesh  for comfort
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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terry t
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« Reply #639 on: March 30, 2020, 05:43:37 PM »

im thinking of moving the radiator to the back as its a little cluttered at the front,  anyone know if i can use 22 mm copper plumbing pipe and wrap it in something heat proof wise or other options?
28mm might be better more water flow to the rear plus it may be a better size for the rad hoses
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dobber
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« Reply #640 on: April 03, 2020, 09:09:59 AM »

any one got a small motorcycle radiator with filler  cap to post out?   cant get anyone on flea bay to give me measurements,.  needs to be 10 inch max tall and ideally 12 wide but can be bigger.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
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