wheel PCD/Offset/tyre Speed/tyre size/ratio charts

[Manky Monkey]

I believe so XJ. Thanks for that. 

[XJ750(UK)]

no problemo Andy, glad to be of help. Here's a couple more I may as well stick up, may be useful..

[manfred]

That looks to be the the measurment I want ta.
86? thats massive!
I think I may have a bit of trouble removing 15mm all round with the drill and a grinding stone!
Looks like I'll have to investigate using a different PCD and adaptors.
Would you happen to know the distance wheel mounting face to flange mounting face?
That way I can tell roughly how far behind the wheel the disc needs to be.
Or the amount that the nova disc steps back would do just as well.

[XJ750(UK)]

I'll check it for you tomorrow, manfred.

[manfred]

Going by the PCD list the only thing 86mm or bigger is 108mm so a shim would be needed.
Would ally be strong/hard enough for the shim.
Or make a custom spacer to up the PCD and provide the increased bore size.
Taking the frontera as an example (the first one I come to):
A 30 series tyre would be about right for Reliant (assuming that they are available).
Standard frontera tyres have a circumference of about 48", double a standard Reliant!
Front disc size is 280mm.
Different adaptor plate would almost certainly be needed.
Would the requirement of two custom parts (caliper mount adaptor & PCD converter) be sufficiently offset by the ability to use off-the-shelf parts for everything else?

[XJ750(UK)]

I'm afraid thats way too complicated for me manfred. I can however give you the measurements I promised..

[manfred]

It appears that last night I was suffering from beer and crossed wires.
I was assuming (without looking at the hub) that the shoulder was the one that the wheel sits on rather than the one the drum sits on.
Looking at the reliant hub on the trike, I see that the nuts do all the work, there is no shoulder providing support for the wheel.

Presumably, if the disc sits securely on the studs, I can either:
  a) remove the shoulder with the angle grinder or
  b) fit a thin spacer so the disc sits above the shoulder.

I may have to space the caliper outwards by the same amount, but I would think that that would be prefferable to altering standard parts.

[manfred]

Oh and thanks for the pictures and measurements, they will at least allow me to get the sequence straight in my head before I start work.

[twistgrip]

Coo all those calculations hurt my brain.
Mrs Twistgrip won four refurbished 17" Wolfrace multifit alloys last night -
Now who's gonna tell me we've wasted our money trying to fit them to Reliant back axles on our XS750's?
No idea of the Wheel model type or tyre size until we pick them up at the weekend.
Cheers
David
Gonna be a busy weekend  - Bridgenorth and Stafford tomorrow and Manchester on Sunday picking up stuff for the trikes!

[Manky Monkey]

I do like classic Wolfies. Nice.

[twistgrip]

Andy,
Well we picked up the Wolf wheels - They'd allegedly been refurbished, but Glenda could do a better job!
Anyway we redid them ourselves  2 with black rims and 2 with Chrome effect painted rims. the latter look good, but applying a wheel laquer turned them to a sort of silvery grey - not the effect I wanted.
Now looking out for a different laquer that won't discolor the paintwork.
Wheels fiitted straight on to the Robin and Fox axles and we've now located 4 x 255/55/17 tyres with just 100 miles on them for £25 each! Not the best make of tyres , but will get us moving  
Just hope that with one axle having a 3.23:1 ratio and the other a 4:1 ratio they don't stifle the 750s too much.
One thing we will need is larger diameter wheel nuts to replace the original Reliant ones - any ideas what I need to look out for and where to get them?
Glenda told me she'd read that you drill out the original studs and replace them with fatter ones - to be honest, I don't fancy tackling that sort of job.
So any suggestions gratefully received.
Cheers
David
PS Just recovered from a cataract operation on one eye - things look a lot clearer, just can't see anything nearer than 3 ft now instead of the other way round.
Next op will be in October after I've driven out to Crete and back ( shhh , that'll be in the Picasso with Uncle Tom Tom helping me! )

[Manky Monkey]

Hi Dave,
replacing the wheel studs isn't a particularly big job. I swapped my 3/8" Reliant ones for 12mm ones, (just under 1/2"). I'm told Reliant vans had larger studs anyway. They have a splined shaft which grips the holes they fit in in the hubs. Ideally they should be pressed in & out with a hydraulic bench press, but a sharp whack with a big hammer should knock the old ones out. Then you can drill the holes out to slightly smaller than the new studs & carefully tap them in with your hammer, making sure they go in straight. Alternatively, any decent garage should be able to do the job for you.
"SpeedShack", in London can supply replacement studs & wheel nuts in a variety of sizes & do fast mail order. Their details are in the Links for commercial purposes bit of the forum.
Glad the eye op went well by the way. 

[steve brock]

Does your discs have bigger holes than the studs? Do you need a stud spacer to solve this gap or did you drill an tap for a screw to hold in place? TA Steve

[Manky Monkey]

Hi Steve. Been a while since I even looked at my trike project. The discs should centralise on the central hole, (don't forget we machine the centre of the hub down slightly to suit). They don't centralise on the studs, but my 12mm ones were a pretty good fit to the discs as I remember. The caliper will hold the disc in place when you remove a wheel but a small countersunk screw won't do any harm as well.

[steven brock]

Any really basic guides about these axles I.e. A axle + 15" wheels = good
B axle + 13" wheels bad etc what the general to aim for? Hope that makes sense