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terry t
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« Reply #45 on: February 04, 2011, 11:54:13 PM » |
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ByzMax
Hero Member
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Choppit
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« Reply #46 on: February 07, 2011, 05:21:38 PM » |
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He still has them so PM him as someone on Britchopper is showing interest in them ... You won't get a brand new set like this for that kind of money.... Of course you need to be sure they will fit! |
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hornet6
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« Reply #47 on: February 07, 2011, 09:27:48 PM » |
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Ok,thanks for the info. Ive just bought a second hand set off ebay.....purely to copy and make a bigger set.The set ive bought are really narrow and small,only 26 inches from the top yoke to the center of the wheel spindle.When they arrive i will put a few piccies on ....maybe someone on here can identify which bike they came from. I looked at the link that you sent me,and yes,they look great.Thats exactly what i want to try and make.Also it will be jigged up and clamped and Tig welded by yours truly.  |
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flc
Sr. Member
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« Reply #48 on: February 09, 2011, 02:13:38 AM » |
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One of the beauties with girders is once the yokes and links are made, you can make pairs of legs that are different lengths and just bolt them on.
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hornet6
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« Reply #49 on: February 09, 2011, 10:38:55 PM » |
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Do you think it would be ok to use any type of shock absorber from an old japanese bike,say like an old bandit,fazer or hornet,just to give it some adjustment.....ive seen a couple of them that have used a trial bike shocker.
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
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« Reply #50 on: February 09, 2011, 11:00:39 PM » |
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Taz's trike project has super wide girder forks built for us by forum member FLC, (Mick). They hold the rear wheel from a Yamaha VMax. Mick used an old 125cc bike shock, Honda I think.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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ByzMax
Hero Member
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Posts: 1637
Choppit
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« Reply #51 on: February 10, 2011, 12:16:06 AM » |
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Do you think it would be ok to use any type of shock absorber from an old japanese bike,say like an old bandit,fazer or hornet,just to give it some adjustment.....ive seen a couple of them that have used a trial bike shocker.
You will be ok with any shock off a twin shock bike (don't use a monoshock). The angle and position you mount it will affect the way it operates and the effectiveness of the spring. Fit any old one and see what it's like. Then to find out the spring rating put it on the bathroom scales or use another method and press down on it. However many pounds of pressure is required to compress the spring an inch is the springs rating. 60lbs = 1" means it's a 60lb spring. Order a softer or harder one as required. Sorted |
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hornet6
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« Reply #52 on: February 10, 2011, 08:00:10 PM » |
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Thanks loads for the feedback.....i just cant wait till this old pair come through the post next week. The more i think about it,the more ime thinking about making a pair to swap with the forks i all ready have in my project  |
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flc
Sr. Member
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« Reply #53 on: February 11, 2011, 01:38:11 PM » |
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Ideally the pivot links need to be short as possible, to allow the offset to be nearer to std bike yokes, but this is governed by the length of the shock used. on taz's trike the links were 5" and the shock was 13" eye to eye (i think!?) but with a 45deg rake, on my chop they are 4.5" and 12.5" and 38 deg rake to keep the trail figure within reason. if this is not checked and set properly you can end with with negative trail which is where the vehicle is unstable at speed (very dangerous). think trials bike
reading this back it all sounds a bit complicated. i will try, once i get time to do some drawrings to explain this better.
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ByzMax
Hero Member
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Choppit
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« Reply #54 on: February 11, 2011, 07:13:40 PM » |
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reading this back it all sounds a bit complicated. i will try, once i get time to do some drawrings to explain this better.
 That's cos it is complicated : Sort of! The hardest part about it is getting it all to fit and all the required components to sit where they are supposed to. I can do it in my head and transfer it to metal but I never write it down> Even the drawings make it look easy but in reality there are so many variables it's just suck it see. I'll try and put some details up over the weekend with some pics too and between us all we might be able to produce something that makes some sense! |
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hornet6
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« Reply #55 on: February 11, 2011, 07:20:26 PM » |
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Thats great and thanks loads. Just want to gather as much info as possible even before i make any attempt to start on them.
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hornet6
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« Reply #56 on: February 14, 2011, 09:55:46 PM » |
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HI...The girder forks i ordered of ebay have arrived.I knew they we,re small but i only bought them so that i can have a good look at the principle of how they work. They are roughly 26 inches long from the top yoke to the center of the wheel spindle.The gap between the fork legs is roughly 2.5 inches. I dont know how old they are,or what machine they was from. They are a bit shabby but rust free,so i may get em bead blasted and painted black again and sell them.
I took the side plates off the one side,and there appears to be no type of bushes at all inside the yokes.It seems like the bolts we,re hardend and the fork legs simply pivot on them.Has anybody got any idea what machine they might be from and a rough estimate to the age of em.
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hornet6
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« Reply #57 on: February 14, 2011, 09:58:41 PM » |
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No 1
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hornet6
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« Reply #58 on: February 14, 2011, 09:59:52 PM » |
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No 2
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hornet6
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« Reply #59 on: February 14, 2011, 10:00:56 PM » |
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No 3
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