Lister D type

[tbone]

Its this thick!

[tbone]

Now the eagle eyed amongst you will probably have noticed the crack in the frame. This is something that i didnt know was there when i bought it, the whole thing had been stood against a wall for the last 30 years and the crack was wall side apparently, which begs the question how did it happen, cos it`s not got 30 years worth of rust in.

[tbone]

However it happened really isn`t important i suppose, but it does need fixing.
Cast Iron can be welded but its a real bugger to do properly, you have to be very careful not to overheat it and let it cool very very slowly, the iron doesn`t melt as in the steel welding process so in effect, all you are doing is sticking the iron together.
Brazing is a better method, the weld isn`t as brittle and can fill the gap better leading to a better, stronger joint........i`ve never brazed before so this could be interesting.
Anyway, before i do anything, i`ve gotta clean all the ironwork up

[Manky Monkey]

Looks like the Flintstone's car being serviced!

[trikerpete]

ahha, the old water jacket engine. when i were a lad i used to operate an old batching machine (cement mixer) that had one of these engines where i used to boil eggs for lunch

[morrag]

T bone, you may well be able to braze that crack, but another method is one we used in industry some years ago called, as far as I remember, Chain-lok, or such like. A series of holes of around 8mm. for a crack such as the one in the grinder casting, were drilled along the length of the crack, and then cast plugs were drven in as linked pairs, worked a treat. You could even plate over the top and drill and tap the face, for the sort of work it will be asked to do in the future, anyway, might be of interest, Morrag

[tbone]

I had thought of plating it on the inside and running a bead on the outside face, now you`ve mentioned the plug method i sort of recall seeing it somewere. I`d like to stay away from welding it and try to repair it in a way that would fit in with its age so maybe your plug method is the way to go. 

[spanners]

i,v repaired very simaler in the past== welding cast is a  dark  art i,v had some succsess  but my dad is/was an expert but even he admits he,s getting past his best

the trick is warming the casting first then welding with the right rods and allowing to cool very slowly and gently
the rods =  nu-tectic supacast,  very expensive and not a long or good ,,shelf, life

i honestly think youre best option is to drill and bolt a neat plate on the inside and leave the bolt heads showing on the outside
try and use old style whitworth bolts with the old fashioned,large, heads  then it will look in keeping

======== a vintage repair

[tbone]

why oh why do you and your dad live soooo far away! 

[hunter]

you could counter bore the hole on the outside,and use a coach bolt,
that way you would have a nice flush head on the outside.

[spanners]

hey ,t bone,  do you know ================================ that grindstone is only half as thick as
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 my ex missis

[toad]

hey ,t bone,  do you know ================================ that grindstone is only half as thick as
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 my ex missis

mike you also forgot that grindstone is more intelligent

[spanners]

  and i bet the grindstone is cheaper to keep    /    maintain in the way that it has become acustomed 

[tbone]

Early pictures are missing from this thread due to the recent hacking of the site......
Just a quick update to prove i do still do stuff  .
The wheel is now fixed, assembled and sporting new colours. Still need to make a new wooden handle to go over the shaft then i can bolt that back on.

[tbone]

I`ve also knocked up a frame to mount my collection of Lister spanner on (thats not bad punctuation, i only have 1 at the moment  )
There would have been 5 whitworth spanners shipped with the engine, so i aim to pick up 2 sets, 1 set to use, whilst the other set will be painted up and mounted in the display frame.