Manky Monkey
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« Reply #180 on: October 27, 2009, 12:09:53 AM » |
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Looking very busy in your garage Rod! Great progress. I'm deeply jealous!
What are the 2 curving tubes at the back of the luggage rack? Would be very interested in more detail on that gearstick conversion.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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ROD
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« Reply #181 on: October 27, 2009, 05:50:18 AM » |
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The 2 tubes are the cylindrical fuel tank mounts. Andy,...this effort of mine is just run of the mill to your masterpiece! As I said before ,Im no bike builder and my effort is honestly 90 per cent down to the helpfulness of this site ! There are many on here much more knowledgable than me!I mean ,take TB(get well soon)..there I was thinkin' he was a shed monkey ,now he's gettin' all technical quoting wire sizes and amps  ! Oldskoob...glad you got on here mate ,and welcome! Rod |
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« Last Edit: October 27, 2009, 06:05:08 AM by ROD »
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ROD
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« Reply #182 on: October 27, 2009, 06:03:17 AM » |
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Back to the plot....I wanted to house the brake t pieces and compensator in the battery box. They actually physically fit in there ,quite tight for space. BUT when I came to pipe it all up ,I couldnt fit the pipe bends in there as well ,without them getting dangerously close to elec terminals ,IE danger of shorting out .Also they look a mess.I have a new plan which should be a lot cleaner and less cluttered,and above all safer from wire connections etc.This may mean me having to go buy another roll of brake pipe ,but will be worth the expense for safety.
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tbone
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« Reply #183 on: October 27, 2009, 06:01:53 PM » |
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I take umbridge at your earlier comment, i may not be the most technically minded here, i`m certainly not the most talented and my design ideas are non existent, but i am, and always will be a shed monkey |
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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oldskoob
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Posts: 8
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« Reply #184 on: October 27, 2009, 10:07:19 PM » |
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shame you couldnt hang around for a bit on sunday mate. when you turned up you made it 4 trike builders in my garage at one time . thats a new record mate.
there seems to a few of us around braintree, could be good for a few runs next year!!!
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ByzMax
Hero Member
Karma: 57
Posts: 1637
Choppit
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« Reply #185 on: October 28, 2009, 12:36:21 AM » |
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Just been updating myself on your progress Rod. Nice bit of progress. Trike is looking very Tidy.. Proper job.. Super, Great, Smashin..... keep it up  |
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ROD
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« Reply #186 on: October 28, 2009, 04:09:41 AM » |
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TB...........I stand corrected young man! (*bows*) Your most 'umble servant... Rod |
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ROD
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« Reply #187 on: October 29, 2009, 03:36:45 PM » |
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Aarghhhhhhhh!!!!!
Ponced about today ,1)cant get a good brake pedal! Have bled the system about 10 times!AND I bled it from all the unions as well! Afew pumps of the pedal produces a semi hard pedal,and the fluid drops drastically in the m/cyl at each pump. When I let the pedal go ,the fluid gradually comes back up in the m/cyl!Gotta be air in there somewhere!
2) Despite having new points and condenser, a good spark at the plugs ,and fuel in the carb ,the engine wont start!
.....just going to launch a few things in the shed!!!!
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terry t
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« Reply #188 on: October 29, 2009, 04:03:16 PM » |
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Hi Rod been following your build looking good. brake master cylinder seals may be worn fluid passing when you pump peddle. have you put the plug leads on right.try swapping thenover ie 1to4 2to3 check basic timing see where rotor arm is that no 1
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tbone
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« Reply #189 on: October 29, 2009, 04:14:25 PM » |
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Dont forget that this was a running engine when you fitted it, so its lack of starting has to be something basic. not wishing to teach anyone how to suck anything but..... is it fireing? you may fuel in the carb but is it coming out again?
Your master cylinder is new so unlikely to be knackered seals (although not impossable), try jacking up one rear wheel and leave it overnight with the nipple open, any trapped air should then have time to make its way upward.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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ROD
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« Reply #190 on: October 29, 2009, 06:00:25 PM » |
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Starting (lack of!)..... Yes it was all running before removal ,havent altered the dist or anything. Just took cap and leads off . Didnt mark there location ,but have stAtic timed it (about 6 times) Fitted new points/ condenser . Points spark is fair. Wired coil direct to battery to by pass any switches that may have dodgy connections.Coil wires correct way round. tried another coil.DIST CAP LOOKS NEW . LEADS ARE THE CARBON TYPE. tOOK OUT PLUGS ONE BY ONE AND EARTHED THEM TO BLOCK =VERY STRONG SPARKS ON ALL.(oops caps!)Plugs look new.Refitted plugs in head ,cap on ,turns over but not firing.plugs are wet with fuel on removal,so fuel must be getting thro'. Was wondering ,is there summat like an earth wire from block to head,that may be missing?? The wire connecting the base plate to the top plate inside the dist was dodgy ,its a sort of multi stranded cotton covered wire. I re insulated it with a piece of slit down insulation from another wire ,. It wasnt firing previous to this!Tomorrows job is to replace all leads with copper ones,but I doubt its that! This brings me to the carb......I have a thick gasket between carb and inlet ,and a thin one from small inlet to main inlet. Should it be a thick one on the bottom as well?I had this prob about 30 odd yrs ago with a weber on a 1500 pre x flow Ford. In a previous post Andy reckoned it didnt matter?
Brakes........If I shut the proportioning vale ,which is near the rear axle ,I get a better pedal. Was wondering a) is the air in the system AFTER the valve OR does shutting the valve just 'compartment' the system cutting down the air in the pipes movement?M/cyl is new.Pipes and t's are new,calipers are reds reconned.All pipe ends ,bar one, are new.I have bled every union starting at the m/cyl.
Any comments appreciated!
SMALL UPDATE...Have tried altering the position of number 1 lead ,and re doing the firing order using each plug as no1. Not even a cough from the engine.
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« Last Edit: October 29, 2009, 06:23:26 PM by ROD »
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tbone
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« Reply #191 on: October 29, 2009, 06:16:29 PM » |
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Another daft question, did you pump the pedal to set the rear pads after you installed them? The caliper pistons will be fully rewound to enable fitment of the pads, pumping the pedal pushes the pistons back out and sets the pads against the disc.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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ROD
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« Reply #192 on: October 29, 2009, 06:20:16 PM » |
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See your point ,but I couldnt pump the pedal ,as I hadnt bled them out by then!! Funnily enuf ,when I open the nipple on each caliper the fluid doesnt 'squirt'out ,it only splutters.Putting the bleed tube into a jar of fluid produces no bubbles .I did operate the handbrake a couple of times before bleeding started.Was thinking about getting one of those eazibleed thingys ,but theyre about £50!
btw you say "wound " in ? so how do they wind out?
Does the engine need back pressure ,ie a silencer fitted to start? Ive only got the down pipe on a t present!
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« Last Edit: October 29, 2009, 06:34:49 PM by ROD »
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tbone
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« Reply #193 on: October 29, 2009, 06:44:41 PM » |
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i`d still look at jacking one corner and leaving it a few hours.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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ROD
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« Reply #194 on: October 29, 2009, 06:56:04 PM » |
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So the air may find its way upward? never heard of that method!
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