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Author Topic: RODS build........  (Read 330389 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #120 on: August 18, 2009, 10:09:11 PM »

I can't remember.
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ROD
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« Reply #121 on: August 19, 2009, 12:41:06 PM »

Spent the last couple of days cleaning ancillaries and moving my 'workshop' to my shed.
     My frames still at the welders.After a lot of discussion with various parties,when I get it back ,Im gonna assemble the basic bits to get it rolling ,then pull it out of the shed into the daylight! Discussions  and fat chewing will then occur on site about its length (oo er!) I/we will then make a descision about chopping the front end of the frame off ,and bringing the front tubes more upright.I dont really want to do this a) cos I cant be arsed and b) cos Im in too deep with the build,but I know its the only way I'm gonna feel happy about the frame.this should happen in the next couple of days,I'll keep you posted!
                 Rod
« Last Edit: August 19, 2009, 12:43:35 PM by ROD » Logged
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« Reply #122 on: August 19, 2009, 04:04:34 PM »

If you're already that convinced it needs doing, just do it Rod. Nothing worse than finishing the build, standing back & thinking "I'm not happy with that". Do it, do it now!  Grin
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ROD
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« Reply #123 on: August 22, 2009, 06:08:06 PM »

Heres the latest pics........in the new work area.I already feel better working in a brighter ,bigger space.Actually got me radio working as well now! Be very honest ..what do you think of the down tube angle?Huh
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Been working all day on it from about 8.30 am.Got pedals and pegs more or less done ,gotta machine up the aly and knurl it tamara. Got the rear light mounts sorted.Battery bracket done ,and 3/4 way throught the h/brake and cable stop mounts.Next job is to strip it yet again to turn it over to weld the aforementioned jobs fully. Gonna weld these myself ,as they will be ok stick welded .More pics tamara.
            Rod
« Last Edit: August 22, 2009, 06:29:51 PM by ROD » Logged
tbone
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« Reply #124 on: August 22, 2009, 06:54:09 PM »

Hmmmmm, .........i don`t know what the heck your complaining about, looks bloody good to me  Grin.
i can see what you mean about straightening those down tubes, but the overall dimensions DON`T look bad to me, in fact, i think it would look worse shorter because you have that remote fuel tank mounted high on the back, and it may end up too cluttered. Instead of worrying over the extra room at the front, use it to your advantage......I see a nice little `dashboard` for all the warning lights  and switches you need, mounted between the headstock gussets  Wink..........n thats my honest opinion Rod.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
ROD
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« Reply #125 on: August 22, 2009, 07:46:34 PM »

Thanx for that TB . I appreciate your honesty. Smiley
 Pie came round to look,and he more or less said the same.
 Im gonna add some height to the top tube ,so it'll add a bit of bulk to that area.
 Going to do away with the adjustable  pillion backrest I made (not in pics) and add the backrest pad direct to the tank.
     Rod
« Last Edit: August 22, 2009, 07:50:59 PM by ROD » Logged
tazet
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« Reply #126 on: August 22, 2009, 08:06:54 PM »

That's coming along very nicely Rod bet you're pleased.  Grin Not sure about the petrol tank on the back but that's just me and it's your build not mine.
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morrag
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« Reply #127 on: August 22, 2009, 09:15:04 PM »

I like it! leave well alone Rod as you've got the balance about right, Morrag
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #128 on: August 22, 2009, 11:20:06 PM »

That's looking great Rod. Very impressive & some fast progress. Only wish I could get my own finished so fast.
Purely personal opinion & not deriding your style in any way as it's all about doing what you want, but you did ask:
I love the swept back down tubes -makes it look sportier. Richard Noble, the land speed record guy, uses the same upholsterer I do & checking a photo of my trike, said the only change he'd make would be to angle the down tubes back. I'd use the space though to mount a bike rad inside the frame line, between engine & down tubes, rather than the Reliant rad outside the frame. Somethng like a Suzuki Intruder rad, which is long & thin. Mount a small electric bike fan as we have, but on the outside, between the frame tubes, pointing back at the radiator.
I always think the frames look sporty without the tank on the top tube. Maybe create a long thin, tapered dummy tank to hold the gauges or switchgear or coil etc, but without messing up the side profile of the top tube. Like the rear fuel tank, but would personally mount it much lower, level with the top of the rear tyres. That'd still give you enough height for a pillion to rest the small of their back against it. Ideally, if you're incorporating a pillion, make a cut out in the front of the tank for them to sit into.
Just my ideas.  Wink
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ROD
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« Reply #129 on: August 23, 2009, 04:49:08 AM »

Thanks guys for the opinions ,I asked for your honesty ,so no worries about offending me,Im scrutinizing each one,keep 'em coming!
 I actually did think about a bike rad,after I visited a local bike breakers and saw the fantastic shapes of the rads!My only concern about using one is the water flow . I dont know what sort of power the bike water pumps have vs the Reliant pump. Do they pump harder to push the water thro' smaller tubes or summat? I also dont know what surface area they have ,and if the'formula' for working it all out is the same as for a car. EG.. a 1000cc bike has less rad area than a 1000cc car,as apparently the bikes run a lot hotter? And would I need a oil cooler to also help with the cooling etc etc . I have tried the reliant rad inside the frame to fill the gap,p'raps its just me,but I dont think it looks right. Will mock it up and take pics.......
 Yes I did think about dropping the tank originally ,but wanted the pillion to feel more secure with something behind them.When you say 'make a cut out' Andy ,do you mean 'scoop' out part of the front of the tank in a curve? I chose the rear tank to allow me to 'up' the capacity of fuel ,as I just cant be arsed with petrol stops sometimes!I tried a conventional mounted bike tank and due to top tube length it didnt look right. I also considered a long squarish tank in conventional place .I realise the tank makes the bike look longer,and may change it.
 From what I can calculate I reckon this trike is about 6" longer than an upright down tube frame,Andys id poss shorter as he has a shorter prop as well.
 Andy...its still gonna take me ages to get this done ,no matter how fast progress appears!
 Im now going out there to have a sit........ and a stare......... and ponder !
 
  ADDED..I'm back! Just mocked up a card tank over the top tube ,I'm still not convinced! I could drop the (rear) tank by 4",to just above the diff.Hmmmmmore pondering me thinks...... Grin
 
  Has anyone noticed the trike pic on the door? I think thats Muffins trike , had it enlarged and used it as a rough scale guide!!
« Last Edit: August 23, 2009, 06:12:55 AM by ROD » Logged
ROD
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« Reply #130 on: August 23, 2009, 07:36:15 AM »

Ive now decided.........
 What Ive done is mocked up the seats to the heights they will be when on the intended scissor springs. This ,together with roughly setting the handle bar height by mole gripping them on to the risers, 'loses' the height of the tank,and to me changes the whole look of the trike. Im now happy ,but will visit the breakers to look at rads and talk to them about water flow. Worth a try I s'pose!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #131 on: August 23, 2009, 07:59:13 AM »

Yeah, looks like Mr Muffin's from what I can see of it.
A few years back I was having problems with the carburation on my green Reliant. The new issue of Back Street Heroes came out & had a black Reliant trike in it, very like mine. Belonged to a guy from Yorkshire called Sandy & was for his missus. He'd had a black Ducati engined chop on the cover a few months before. He was starting a bike building business so they'd included his phone number. I gave him a ring for some carb advice. Turned out he'd built his after seeing mine parked outside a pub in Stratford during the Bulldog Bash! He had a photo of mine on his garage wall.
Yes, I meant a pillion shaped scoop in the tank. I've tried coil springs on solo seats before but as you need to push quite hard against the bars to corner on a trike, I found I just pushed myself sideways on the springs, so ended up removing them again. As far as rads go, I use the Try It & See building method. I love Reliants because they're so mechanically basic & forgiving -you can take a lot of liberties with them & they just keep plugging away. Don't forget your engine will be out in the airflow all the time, rather than enclosed in bodywork, so will run cooler anyway.
So let's see some piccies of the new mock-up then!  Grin
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ROD
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« Reply #132 on: August 23, 2009, 10:58:09 AM »

Surely if the front hinge part is set up correctly with enuf steel pushing against the sides of the hinge,and not just relying on the pivot pin to hold it in line ,it should be ok.I actually anticipated this when I built the hinge for the front seat.
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« Reply #133 on: August 23, 2009, 03:17:58 PM »

Just my personal experience mate. I used the standard front pivot  & 3 inch coils. If you're using scissor or hairpin springs you might not have the problem. Maybe I was just too damn fat for the springs!  Tongue
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« Reply #134 on: August 23, 2009, 04:11:11 PM »

Muffin's Reliant trike, photographed this very afternoon at the Popham airfield Megameet bike show & jumble.
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