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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1537308 times)
VALLEYSBOY
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« Reply #1620 on: November 07, 2009, 10:03:32 PM »

Um wot about having stop/tail light in the tube ends, and then the indicators in cones same as front but on tha back ? only an idea
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« Reply #1621 on: November 08, 2009, 09:43:00 AM »

Yeah, did think about that Gareth, but it took 3 months for Bernie to get round to making the front ones!
Might end up keeping it simple & just mounting them in the bottom corners of the panel under the tailgate. They should be within 400mm of the outside edge of the vehicle, so got to be fairly close to the edge of the bodywork cos it doesn't extend out as far as the tyres.
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VALLEYSBOY
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« Reply #1622 on: November 08, 2009, 03:11:30 PM »

aye fair enough Andy i got a similar issue "light placement" or will ave with my trike Smiley
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« Reply #1623 on: November 08, 2009, 04:59:36 PM »

aye fair enough Andy i got a similar issue "light placement" or will ave with my trike Smiley




ive just spent the afternoon on the same job    ,bl,,dy tail, lights  still undecided  Undecided Undecided
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« Reply #1624 on: November 08, 2009, 05:31:50 PM »

Don't forget to check they fall within the required measurents for the MSVA test. I've mounted my trike rear lights on the back of the axle clamps, but will have to temporarily raise them for the test as the indicators are too low.
The positions for trike lights are stickied at the top of the Trike Tech section.
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VALLEYSBOY
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« Reply #1625 on: November 08, 2009, 06:03:26 PM »

Don't forget to check they fall within the required measurents for the MSVA test. I've mounted my trike rear lights on the back of the axle clamps, but will have to temporarily raise them for the test as the indicators are too low.
The positions for trike lights are stickied at the top of the Trike Tech section.
yup ive got and printed out Grin i think i'll be ok just the tyres are 275 wide and my back lights are like yours, back end is 4ft4 wide with the tyres Grin
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« Reply #1626 on: November 10, 2009, 06:21:41 PM »

Another brief visit to the workshop today. I'd spent all morning trudging round the streets delivering the mail in the rain & was cold & wet, so took a while to get myself into a workshop frame of mind. Loony had to leave early though, so I contented myself with tinkering with the pick-up top tubes again for an hour or so. Finished tidying up the welded joint from the other day, then cut a pair of 3mm discs, (cut from the 45 degree offcuts from the end of the chassis -waste not, want not). I then welded these to the ends of the tubes to blank them off. This'll be the cab end of the tubes as I'm still undecided about mounting lights in the other end. If I decide not to, they'll be blanked in the same way.
Weldy, weldy, flap wheely, flappy, filey filey. Done.
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« Reply #1627 on: November 10, 2009, 06:33:13 PM »

While I was doing that, Loony pinched the engine bay door off Doug's VW camper van. He's still not convinced about it -not keen on having a big bright yellow number plate in the middle of it & would rather tuck it away under the tailgate somewhere. Personally the number plate thing doesn't bother me but I can see what he means -it's a necessary evil & I think it's more of a challenge to make it look good though. I'd like the pick-up panels to be a bit more interesting than just a flat sided box.
Because the bed won't be as tall as the VW door, it would have to hinge from lower down, below the chassis. That might give me a chance to add a hidden storage box for tools etc, under the fuel tank & accessed by opening the tailgate.
Here my beautiful photographic assistant holds it in place.
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« Reply #1628 on: November 10, 2009, 06:38:56 PM »

Loony's been busy spraying a car today -a Saab, & his mate Doug's been repairing a car, while I've been messing with Pop stuff, so we had 2 MIG welders & a compressor running in the workshop. Very noisy.
Loony & PD have taken on the job of knocking up an external roll cage for a local off-roader. They've started by welding huge box section "rock sliders" direct to the chassis below the doors. They'll then build a tubular cage up from there.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2009, 06:41:18 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #1629 on: November 15, 2009, 11:56:57 AM »

Back to the plot again...
Had a torrential rain storm the night before last which ended in a power cut so couldn't get online, then last night I was so knackered by the time I got home from a day's work, followed by an evening's workshopping, that I went straight to bed.
So I haven't posted any progress for 2 days, so-

First off, I spent an afternoon cutting & drilling 5mm steel mounting tabs to fit the pick up bed to the chassis, then welding 4 of them along each side.   
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« Reply #1630 on: November 15, 2009, 12:02:09 PM »

Then I cut & fitted corresponding 3mm tabs for the bed frame, (the square box section of the bed is between 2 & 3mm wall thickness, whereas the chassis is heavier gauge).
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« Reply #1631 on: November 15, 2009, 12:12:10 PM »

M8 stainless bolts dropped through the holes. Suprisingly, they all lined up. Originally we'd planned to leave them as normal nuts n bolts, but access will be limited once the pick-up bed floor's welded in, so we welded the bolt heads to the mounting tabs to form captive studs. The weight of the bed is laying directly on the chassis, so the tabs just locate it. Bolted down, we now have a flat, level platform to build up from. Not sure if the commercial SVA registration test we're going for allows flat bed trucks, but I quite like it like this. 
« Last Edit: November 15, 2009, 12:52:12 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #1632 on: November 15, 2009, 12:41:16 PM »

We've been wondering about the rear suspension travel for a while. Those top triangulated arms run quite close to the underside of the bed. So we went for worst case scenario. The rear coil over shocks are something like 160 pound rated I think. We haven't altered the spring settings since we fitted them, but they have a dial on the bottom to adjust the oil damping. With that set to it's lightest boinginess rating, (technical term), & 14 stone of Lunatic jumping up & down on the back of the chassis like a mad jumpy thing we could just make contact between the arms & bed frame. Clang. Better sort that then.
Chopped out the middle of the cross member & added in a couple of bits of box to follow the angle of the arms. I was going to cut the next cross member too, but that would leave a big area of floor unsupported as well as the fuel tank we plan to fit in the front of the bed &, as Loony pointed out, if the front of the arms came up that high, the axle would be smacking against the chassis & we'd have bigger problems to worry about.   
« Last Edit: November 15, 2009, 12:56:26 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #1633 on: November 15, 2009, 12:55:37 PM »

We re-did the Loony Boinginess Test. Sorted.
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« Reply #1634 on: November 15, 2009, 01:10:47 PM »

Then there's a bit of a jump as things went together quite fast.
Yesterday I started by cutting 8 box section uprights, 4 for each side of the bed. I scalloped the tops to take the 2 inch bore top tubes so that they're flush with the inside face of the uprights & overhang the outside. Including the tubes, the bed is 12 inches deep. With those all tacked in place, we added the top tubes, plus a horizontal length of box across the front, below the cab rear window. Rather than sitting that level with the top of the tubes, we put it level with the bottom of them, just to give the bed a bit more shape.
As I said, things jumped on a bit here, as we got carried away & started mocking up the next few bits. This is the original Ford Pop fuel tank, that normally sits under the boot floor of the car. We plan to mount it upright like this in a cradle bolted to the bed floor & backed up by the second Reliant tank hidden under the back of the bed. As we've said before, the SVA registration test requires the pick-up bed to be longer than the cab. Anything fitted in the bed will be subtracted from it's length, so we need to leave this tank out until after the test.
The Pop tank will end up level with the top of the bed sides & we'll shorten the filler neck down & "pie cut" it along it's length, pull it round in a curve & re-weld it so it's vertical. It'll have to be slightly taller than the tank so we can fill it to the top. The fuel outlet & sender unit will also need to be relocated. I could buy a spun aluminium "Moon" tank but I like the idea of recycling parts of the original car.
I've also added another cross member over the rear tank -the tank will be below the floor level & if anyone's going to sit on the tail of the bed, that's the area they'll be sat on, so we needed some extra arse support.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2009, 01:23:18 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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