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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1544754 times)
spanners
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« Reply #1245 on: May 21, 2009, 07:53:28 PM »

might have some valley gaskets  somewhere ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i know of one in the shed its new but bin hangin on the wall along time but i,ll look at it
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« Reply #1246 on: May 21, 2009, 10:41:01 PM »

Thanks Mick, but I've ordered the composite one -Real Steel reckon it's better than the original.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2009, 03:05:33 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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panthershaun
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« Reply #1247 on: May 22, 2009, 07:26:11 AM »

met another  Roll Eyes pop pickup builder last night, mind you his is a big bucks build Grin
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« Reply #1248 on: May 22, 2009, 03:06:15 PM »

Really? Tell me more matey.
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« Reply #1249 on: May 23, 2009, 11:14:39 PM »

i've a composite valley gasket on my rv8 off ebay for around a tenner with end seals.
just see it in this pic.



good progress by the way.

cheers chris.
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« Reply #1250 on: May 24, 2009, 07:58:05 AM »

Hi Chris. Not entirely sure where the rubbers fit -where should I be looking for them?
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« Reply #1251 on: May 24, 2009, 08:34:59 AM »

Had a delivery from europaspares.com yesterday -lookit, lookit! Ooh, a shiny new oil cooler!
We're using a Borg Warner automatic gearbox on the Pop. Not entirely sure what goes on inside autos -never owned one before. I'm assuming it uses hydraulic pressure to provide the drive? Anyway, the transmission fluid gets hot so we need an oil cooler. Europa recommend a 13 row unit for large road engines, so that's what we have here.
We played about with various mounting options -under the radiator, alongside the gearbox under the floor etc, before plumping for inside the front grille in front of the top of the rad. It'll stand off the rad by a couple of inches as the top of the front grille is twice as deep as the bottom, so should get plenty of air flow around it without heat transfer from rad to cooler or vice versa. Ideally we'd mount it off the rad itself on aluminium brackets -I've got no intention of actually racing this car, but we keep saying it looks very sporty with the nose bodywork removed. Would be nice if it could be run like that with everything self contained within the engine bay. In the end though we decided it will be much easier to mount it from the tubular framework around the inside of the grille shell.
The radiator & carb are only propped in place here by the way, which is why they all look slightly out of line.
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« Reply #1252 on: May 24, 2009, 08:43:43 AM »

So my homewok for this weekend is to knock up some angled tabs to mount it with. Next job will be to look at moving the alternator. No real need to, but we reckon it'd look much tidier bottom left of the engine bay, rather than top right as it is at the moment. That Holley carb doesn't look as crazy as the pair of SUs sticking out the top of the motor, but is much tidier. Once all the ancillaries are in place it'll get quite busy in there, so I think it'll work out better.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2009, 08:47:48 AM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #1253 on: May 24, 2009, 09:04:46 AM »

I also bought a pair of rear indicators from Europa -they specialise in kit car parts

https://www.europaspares.com/

Glass lenses, about 3" diameter, with Made in England stamped on them, (we're trying to use as much British stuff as possible on the build, rather than just copying the Yanks). I thought they'd match the rear lights I bought from an autojumble. Decided they'd look better with a matching pair of red stop/tail lamps though, so the jumble ones will go in the spares box. I'll mount them in the corners of the rear valance panel, (under the pick-up tail gate). That'll keep them within the 400mm from the outside edge of the vehicle measurement, that seems to be standard on vehicle regs. I'm now thinking of swapping the headlight sidelight bulbs for amber ones, to give indicators within the headlamps, as early Beetle ones have, & adding small cowl lamps for the sidelights, up by the top door hinges. Got to check with kev Rooney, who was involved with the drafting of the SVA regs, to make sure in-headlight indicators are O.K
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« Reply #1254 on: May 24, 2009, 04:16:07 PM »

the end seals go at either end, held in by a curved piece of steel with a bolt through(i think from memory!!! Roll Eyes  )

is the oil cooler sold as a trans cooler or engine?

different size fittings.

cheers chris.

ps. i'm keeping to 4 speed manual at the moment. as autos are new to me!!! Undecided
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« Reply #1255 on: May 24, 2009, 04:20:22 PM »

re lights.

are side repeaters needed? as kev fitted them to his a-pick up which recently passed the test, he might have fitted them just to stick a finger up to the anti sva etc squad  Cheesy to show that it can look like a rod and not frankenstiens monster!!! Grin
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« Reply #1256 on: May 24, 2009, 08:41:06 PM »

Hiya,
the commercial SVA, which we're going for, as did Keith, doesn't check positioning for lights at all. It's a really, really basic test, intended I think for commercial coach builders who register their vehicles before the bodies are added, so most of the car SVA points don't apply. The commercial test gives rod builders a loophole to side-step the car test, but is being closed in 2011 -so expect to see lots more rodded pick-ups in the next year or so. Obviously we don't want to upset the powers that be by taking the mickey too much, so Keith is very keen no-one messes things up for the rest of us before 2011. Side repeaters are one of the few things that are necessary. I'm planning on mounting mine in the side vent flaps, just ahead of the doors.
It's a trans cooler, but they come in a choice of fittings. I went for 1/2" BSP.
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« Reply #1257 on: May 24, 2009, 09:06:25 PM »

cheers.
i asked about trans coolers on that other forum and got these answers.

http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?t=19816
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« Reply #1258 on: May 25, 2009, 01:39:50 AM »

Looks like we're on the right track then, which is nice to know.
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panthershaun
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« Reply #1259 on: May 25, 2009, 07:29:56 PM »

Hiya,
the commercial SVA, which we're going for, as did Keith,
Whose Keith Huh Huh Huh Wink
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