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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1537242 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #10965 on: February 26, 2019, 08:15:45 PM »

Had a quick check on the chassis paint on my way home from work. I'm leaving it for a couple of  days to harden before  touching it. I was in Post Office uniform, so couldn't crawl underneath it. I know there's a run under the cab that I'll have to sand out, but also found a patch on the top face of one of the rear rails that looks like it's reacted. I've got enough paint left for another coat, but I'm wondering if I can flat this back & lose it under a couple of coats of clear lacquer, or whether sanding it will kill the gloss finish.
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« Reply #10966 on: February 26, 2019, 08:16:16 PM »

.
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stinkey
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« Reply #10967 on: February 26, 2019, 09:55:57 PM »

Really Andy? 
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« Reply #10968 on: February 27, 2019, 09:09:49 PM »

Huh? Yeah, really.
I'll probably be running without the pick-up bed for a while, so all this will be on show. I'm also thinking about taking the floor out of the bed anyway to show off the axle & 4 bar linkage, cos it's quite beaten up & the bed's really just for show -I'll never carry anything in it. So one way or another, the chassis will be on show, so I want a decent finish on it.
Took a look at the paint in daylight after work today. Half a dozen runs, 2 more patches where it seems to have reacted, plus the paint looks to have bled back from a lot of the edges on the underside. So it definitely needs another coat.
Trouble is my lock-up's in permanent shade & even after 3 very sunny days, it's still cold in there. The paint hasn't fully dried yet, so I was just about able to flat the defects out, but it was on the verge of smearing, so I'm just gonna have to wait a few more days then give it another light sanding before painting again.
Hugely frustrating & bloody annoying, but I guess it is still February & I'm trying to achieve a passable paint finish in an unheated garage.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2019, 09:11:51 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #10969 on: February 27, 2019, 10:10:16 PM »

Not a great time of year to be doing this.
You will always have problems if you can't heat the garage for a long time before applying the paint. Body panels are not quite so bad as their low mass to surface area allows them to absorb the heat faster but the greater mass of the chassis will take a lot longer to warm up. Thinner coats if possible might help but that's not easy in a confined space.
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« Reply #10970 on: February 28, 2019, 05:22:50 PM »

Yup, just about sums it up Dave.
I've already spent a month doing virtually nothing on it, just waiting for warmer weather, but it obviously can't be rushed.
Yes you're right, no real problems with the body, but the chassis's being a bloomin' nightmare. I'm warming the garage as much as I can, for as long as I can, not attempting to spray until late afternoon, but I can feel the chassis's still cold. Trying to spray evenly & thinly when I'm painting the area under the cab from just a few inches away is virtually impossible.
It's definitely proving challenging, but I'm determined to stick at it cos I don't want to be doing this all again in a couple of years time.
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« Reply #10971 on: March 24, 2019, 01:51:46 PM »

A lovely day here today, but still cold in the garage.
I haven't given up on the Pop, but have had to admit defeat with the paint for the time being. It'll just have to wait for warmer weather.
Still collecting parts together though.
Ifan Miller in Wales has just sent me these aluminium pipe fittings for the brake master cylinder. The cylinder came from Archie at Just Kampers & is a VW camper dual circuit one. It's a straight reacement for the one Loon & I built the Pop with originally, which had badly corroded after driving through the Winter on salted roads. I've given this one a couple of coats of clear lacquer to try & stop it happening again.
The VW brake pipes apparently just push into the rubber grommets. We didn't have the pipes, so used plastic hydraulic fittings I found locally. They leaked though so I made a clamping plate to hold them in place.
So now the plastic fittings are replaced with Ali ones with a flange on the end that stops them popping out of the rubbers under braking pressure.
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« Reply #10972 on: March 24, 2019, 01:54:32 PM »

A bugger to fit -I fitted the grommets, then greased the fittings & pushed them in using a socket & T bar. Bit awkward as I've got a sprained wrist at the moment, but they seem to have seated alright.
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« Reply #10973 on: March 24, 2019, 01:57:20 PM »

I've cleaned up the curved clamping plate & powder coated it black. It's held with stainless U bolts. A bit belt & braces, but I'd made the bits so may as well use them.
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« Reply #10974 on: March 24, 2019, 02:00:09 PM »

The finished cylinder sits under the driver's floor. There's about an inch of clearance above the fittings, so hopefully just enough room for the hoses that connect to the fluid reservoir.
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« Reply #10975 on: March 24, 2019, 02:00:33 PM »

.
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« Reply #10976 on: March 25, 2019, 08:15:28 AM »

Good to see you are still working on this (despite your injuries).
Many bikes use an angled spout for the remote on the master though I doubt they would be the correct size for your master cylinder.
 Slightly concerned that the hose fitting ends don't have any form grip ring machined into them. I know it's not the pressure side, but if the hoses flex or have to be bent close to the fitting, there may be a tendency for them to work their way off.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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« Reply #10977 on: March 25, 2019, 10:16:05 AM »

Yeah, I did put one on my drawing, but they were free, so can't complain. I've got a tube of brake pipe sealant somewhere, for sealing connections, so will run a bead of that around the hose ends.
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stinkey
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« Reply #10978 on: March 25, 2019, 06:21:43 PM »

I like the way it looks Andy, and glad you decided to wait for warmer weather  Grin
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« Reply #10979 on: March 25, 2019, 10:19:38 PM »

Smiley
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