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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1537254 times)
phunkie hiboy
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« Reply #10680 on: August 16, 2018, 10:04:53 PM »

Just checking the the tin in front of me - lists as High temperature contact adhesive HTA1000

It’s made by wayside adhesives and has UN1133 on it under the danger heading - it does have Toluene in it which I know is a bit nasty.

Thanks for that.
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« Reply #10681 on: August 18, 2018, 08:27:07 PM »

Still faffing about painting the header tank, adding coats of black each time I go to the garage, sanding out the defects that appear & spraying it again. Nearly done.
This evening I've painted a thick coat of Fertan rust killer on the chassis inside the cab. I can't jack the truck up at the moment cos some of the suspension's removed so that I can paint the mounting points. So trying to reach under the cab to paint it's a bit of a bugger. At least this is only a base coat. When I paint the top coat of black cellulose I think I'm going to have to use my inspection mirror to make sure I cover all the nooks & crannies.
Fertan seems to work well at actually getting rid of the surface rust. It looks like old engine oil but turns black as it dries. When I've used it on other areas I found I could scrape it off after a few days & there'd be clean, rust free metal underneath. It stains everything it touches though & although I wear gloves, I always end up with it dripping up my arm.
Once it's dry I'll quickly sand out the worst of the brush marks, then paint it in red oxide primer/rust inhibitor. Not trying to build a show car, but when it's finally MOT'd I don't want the examiner putting it up on the ramp & thinking it looks really tatty underneath.
It looks a lot nicer in photos than it actually is!
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« Reply #10682 on: August 18, 2018, 08:37:56 PM »

While I was laying on the garage floor with a work lamp, another problem showed up. This is the trouble with working in a confined space in constant artificial light.
I spotted a small bubble in the paint on the front wheel arch. Bugger. Not rust surely? No, thankfully. Better to investigate it now than just leave it.
Looked like a split in the green paint that was lacquered over. Maybe a small sag or run & the lacquer got behind it? I don't know. I took it down to bare metal & there was absolutely no sign of rust I'm glad to say, (the Pop spent several years sat outside Loony's rural workshop in all weathers). So I've put a tiny skim of filler over it & will have to respray the bottom edge of the panel.
I've got a nasty feeling the last batch of paint I had mixed is slightly lighter than the rest though -it's bound to turn into another 3 or 4 week saga, but I'm just resigned to it taking however long it takes now
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« Reply #10683 on: August 18, 2018, 08:38:35 PM »

.
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stinkey
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« Reply #10684 on: August 19, 2018, 04:31:54 AM »

What else have you got to do mate? : Roll Eyes it's all like meditation really..
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« Reply #10685 on: August 19, 2018, 08:57:10 AM »

Very true Smiley
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poprodder
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« Reply #10686 on: August 19, 2018, 06:43:43 PM »

this has appeared on retrorides forum

hotrod thread.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm90/niknakpix/P1000481_zpse9b0101c.jpg
Manky's Pop.
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« Reply #10687 on: August 19, 2018, 09:11:51 PM »

Ha ha Smiley
I was talking to Baychimp this afternoon, saying that the paint I've got for the doors might be a very slightly different shade of green. Obviously the answer is to spray them in mud, then no-one will notice Smiley
Think that was on it's very first outing, to the Surrey Street Rodders' Wheels Day show, back in 2013.
Lunatic was driving. The passenger door latch pin had vibrated loose, so that's me with my elbow crooked over the top of the door, holding it shut all the way home.
When I get fed up & think it's getting nowhere, it's good to look back at photos like that & see just how far it's progressed. "It's not a rat rod, it's just not finished yet" Smiley
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« Reply #10688 on: August 19, 2018, 09:33:22 PM »

This was it this afternoon.
Sprayed the header tank again.
Sprayed the front wheel arch with the last drops of the old batch of paint -I sprayed a test strip of metal with old & new & the new lot is very, very slightly brighter. I don't think it'll notice by the time it's lacquered & polished.
The rust killing solution on the chassis is still wet in patches. I know from the last time I used it, that it needs several days to properly dry.
So although Mr Baychimp arrived, there wasn't a lot we could do. Ended up taking the grille shell off as it's the wrong green & needs sanding, rust proofing on the inside, (the bottom is a bit of a water trap), & re-spraying. It'll have to be done outside, but hopefully we're in for a few more weeks of warm weather. Taking it off also gives me access to paint the front of the chassis.
Yes, the engine is in wonky. It's sat on one engine mount at the moment. I took the other off to powder coat it & to paint the chassis around it.
Yes, there's only one headlight too! I hacksawed the other mount off because they need turning by 45 degrees to give more clearance on full lock. I'll take the other off, then weld them both back on in the right place once I can roll the truck out of the garage a bit.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2018, 09:37:09 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #10689 on: August 21, 2018, 09:04:39 PM »

A day of assorted small jobs today.
Rubbed down, sprayed & lacquered the wheel arch, but while checking it with an inspection lamp, found a brown streak in the paint that's been lacquered over, on the edge of the next swage line up the panel. I know what it is. It's the brown wet & dry paper. When I've wet sanded the panel I've missed a bit when I've wiped it dry.
I'll try flatting it back until I'm through the lacquer, but if I can't lose it, I'll have to blow the bottom of the panel over again. The lacquer looks yellow in this light, but improves once it's cut & polished.
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« Reply #10690 on: August 21, 2018, 09:06:49 PM »

Put a couple of coats of lacquer on the header tank. If it looks O.K tomorrow I'll bolt the damn thing on -been buggering about with it, between other jobs, for weeks.
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« Reply #10691 on: August 21, 2018, 09:12:30 PM »

Flatted the grill shell back, re-did a couple of bits of filler around the bonnet badge mount, then blew some grey primer over it. I've painted it once before, but it's now the wrong shade of green. I'm also taking my time over it so will hopefully get a better finish.
The inside still needs tidying up. I might paint the 2 slatted panels black, which will help to hide the black plastic radiator fan behind it, but can't decide.
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« Reply #10692 on: August 21, 2018, 09:25:06 PM »

Sanded off the paint that was covering the chassis number, on the front driver's side chassis rail. I had a stainless VIN plate engraved at the local shoe repair shop ages ago, which I was going to rivet onto the frame, but it's supposed to be non removable -stamped into the chassis itself.
I just did this with hand stamps & a hammer. A couple of the digits are wonky & the first one's only half stamped. There's no chance of aligning the stamp again perfectly to re-do it, (I've tried before), so I'm wondering if there's such a thing as a mini chisel that I could re-do it with? Maybe I can just sacrifice an electrical screwdriver as a punch to work around some of the letters to make them deeper?
I've got some black printer ink I can run into them, then will spray a panel in clear lacquer before repainting the chassis black around it.
Once the body panels & exhaust headers are back on this'll be less obtrusive, but the truck was built to be completely legal so I want to keep it visible to the MOT guy.
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stinkey
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« Reply #10693 on: August 22, 2018, 01:37:31 PM »

Mot guy will have seen worse ..so don't panic about the chassis number Cool
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paulywombats
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« Reply #10694 on: August 22, 2018, 02:02:37 PM »

Did I read you saying grille pan collects water? Worth drilling couple of holes at this stage?
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