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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 2027656 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7575 on: July 28, 2014, 07:53:15 PM »

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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7576 on: July 28, 2014, 07:57:51 PM »

Some lumpy welding on the front cross member that I want to dress back a little.
I want to fit a different shaped gearbox oil cooler, with smaller bore hoses, which can be routed clear of the front axle as the present hoses have rubbed slightly. So will see if I can afford the cooler when I get paid on Friday. I've really stopped worrying about deadlines now, but the Hotrod Drags in September would be nice!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7577 on: July 28, 2014, 07:59:07 PM »

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kapri
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« Reply #7578 on: July 28, 2014, 08:33:37 PM »

Told you there was loads of room didn't I ? Wink

Don't forget to check spigot sizes.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7579 on: July 28, 2014, 08:44:13 PM »

 Smiley First job on my list tomorrow Kev.
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« Reply #7580 on: July 29, 2014, 08:40:50 AM »

will be worth it in the end andy.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7581 on: July 29, 2014, 07:12:09 PM »

Yeah, I'm not imposing deadlines on myself any more -they just stress me out when I fail to meet them. It'll take as long as it takes.
I'd planned to strip it down over the Winter & rebuild the engine as well as finishing lots of other jobs. Now I won't have to do the engine, so I'll keep it taxed & insured over the Winter & hopefully be ready to go as soon as the weather improves in the Spring. Still plenty I can do on it over the Winter, but nothing that'll stop me driving it when I can.

I stripped all the bits I need off the old engine today. Couldn't get the water pump pulley off -I assume they're sweated on like Reliants? No pulley on the new engine, so I need to fit the old pump on the new motor. No problem -except the bolt holes don't line up. Which means I need to fit the old timing chain casing too. The new chain casing also seems taller, so the distributor doesn't fully locate cos it fouls on the top of the casing. Oh, & the old timing chain casing has one pipe spigot on the back, which I hooked up to the inlet manifold as a bypass hose. The new casing has two spigots -air con' type pump?
I've been trying to identify the engine with the Rimmer Brothers number chart, but it seems to be listed twice -possibly 9.35:1 Discovery?

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/content--name-Rover-V8-Engine-Numbers

Old engine number-  11A*****

New engine number-  24D*****B

So looks like I'll need new timing chain casing & water pump gaskets, plus a crankshaft oil seal, (in the front of the chain casing). Think I might drive up to Real Steel when I get paid of Friday & take the casing with me.

Old pump & chain casing.

New pump & casing.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2014, 07:14:24 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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kapri
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« Reply #7582 on: July 29, 2014, 08:04:29 PM »

Another thing to remind you, you MUST pack the oil pump with Vaseline until you physically can't get anymore in the gaps, oil pump won't self prime without. See my direct mail re the cover , will all just swap over HOPEFULLY including bottom pulley.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7583 on: July 29, 2014, 08:35:36 PM »

So I'll need an oil pump gasket too then? Unbolt the pump, drain any remaining oil, then fill it with ordinary common or bedroom Vaseline?
Rear spigot sizes were the same by the way.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2014, 08:37:48 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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kapri
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« Reply #7584 on: July 29, 2014, 09:05:00 PM »

Yup, must be Vaseline as it's petroleum based , KY is no good Wink

Don't you have that gasket in the box that came with it ? No goo needed apply dry.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7585 on: July 29, 2014, 09:32:41 PM »

Possibly, possibly. I'll check. Still cleaning the go-faster red paint off the old chain casing & oil filter housing -why do people paint ali casings?

Just out of curiosity, I took the other head off this afternoon. Guess what- same piston/combustion chamber damage as the other side. 2nd bore from the front. Absolutely no idea what's been going on in there.
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kapri
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« Reply #7586 on: July 29, 2014, 10:25:38 PM »

Hepolites used to do a large poster showing piston and bearing damage listing the causes. With another piston in the mix I'm thinking some of the rings have simply called it a day?
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kapri
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« Reply #7587 on: July 29, 2014, 10:28:28 PM »

As good as...

http://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/assets/Piston%20Diagnosis.pdf
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« Reply #7588 on: July 30, 2014, 09:07:49 AM »

Can't open that document unfortunately.
When I suggested rings everyone said, No, they couldn't possibly get past the piston  Smiley I can't see how anything could get into the combustion chamber from above though & into 3 different bores. Mind you, I can't see that 3 different sets of rings have all broken up at the same time either, unless they've gone one at a time, but surely we would've heard that? It's a mystery motor.
So explain the oil pump thing to me Kev.
I understand filling the pump with Vaseline will create pressure to get it working, but won't it also block the oil ways, stopping the oil getting into the pump & circulating? Vaseline may be oil based, but it's 10 times thicker -how long does it take to break down & get absorbed into the oil? Do I need to do an oil change afterwards? 
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kapri
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« Reply #7589 on: July 30, 2014, 10:27:29 AM »

It dissolves virtually straight away, it's a standard thing to do on the oil pump, it may even mention it in the Haynes book of lies. Nope, no oil change required afterwards either, KY is water based which is why it's no good as it will circulate  in the oil initially rather than dissolve.
Broken rings would also explain the smoking of course.

The document shows virtually the same damage and says broken rings. I also  said can't see how it could get up there but certainly looks like it has.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2014, 10:30:48 AM by kapri » Logged
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