Manky's Pop.

[oldmetalhead82]

With that out of the way, I can start attacking the chassis. I plan to run a wire brush on an angle grinder, (running off my little generator), to scrub the rust off, unclipping fuel & brake pipes, as well as wiring, as I go. Then I'll shop around for the best rust killer I can find to treat it with, before a heavy coat of red oxide primer & several coats of black -what I should've done when we first built it. Also got a couple of old brackets to cut off & tidy up & some unwanted wiring/hose clip holes to fill. If I mark those, they can be welded up at the same time as the exhaust mounts.

Hi Andy i've been using a product called Fertan on my Triumph Herald, it takes 48 hours to do its  thing then as it says on the bottle you can leave it up to 3 months without painting outside in the rain, i know this is  true because i don't have a garage, anyway best one i've found others on the forum may know better.

[Manky Monkey]

That sounds like it might do the job. Any idea who sells it Sir?
Dave, my day off's Friday this week if that's any good?

[Stix]

http://www.fertan.co.uk/Buy%20Fertan%20products%20here.ht

here ya go.

[Manky Monkey]

Link doesn't seem to be working, but I'll check out their website now I know what it's called. Thanks.

[oldmetalhead82]

Got my second bottle from a car spares , it cost more than the first one though , that was from a Newark auto jumble.

[Stix]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fertan+rust+treatment&clk_rvr_id=1100896563547&poi=2826&adpos=1t1&geo_id=32251&MT_ID=10&crlp=100875790097_837&keyword=fertan+rust+treatment&rlsatarget=kwd-38865305211&device=t&crdt=0&treatment_id=7&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-35648-5910-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fulk%25252Fsch%25252F%25253F_nkw%25253Dfertan%25252520rust%25252520treatment%2526keyword%253Dfertan%252520rust%252520treatment%2526crlp%253D100875790097_837%2526MT_ID%253D10%2526geo_id%253D32251%2526rlsatarget%253Dkwd-38865305211%2526adpos%253D1t1%2526device%253Dt%2526poi%253D2826%2526loc%253D1005421%2526treatment_id%253D7%2526srcrot%253D710-35648-5910-0%2526rvr_id%253D1100896563547&ul_noapp=true


This one looks huge but works. 😀😀

Stix

[Manky Monkey]

  Thanks.

[No Sound]

Pop looks nice and snug in that garage. Should make working on it a lot easier (apart from the welding) Andy

[Manky Monkey]

Yup, it's definitely snug! Won't be so bad once all the parts that are on the floor go back on -if I was organised, I'd put it all on shelving out of the way, but I'm not.
At least it's in the dry now & tucked away out of sight when I'm not around. Always used to worry about it outside Loony's workshop. The local travellers used to liberate scrap steel from time to time -Pop parts might be a few quid to them, but months of work to me.
Ordered a new distributor cap & some HT lead end caps today as a couple of the old ones had corroded themselves into the cap & pulled off the leads when I removed them. Chris set the engine up to TDC, but the rotor arm wasn't pointing to number 1 cylinder, it was 1 position out. So we'll just move all the leads around one place, (they're cut to different lengths, so that's easier than swapping them on the plugs). I Googled the firing order to check I'd got it right & found someone on the NSRA forum who said their motor was the same. Other posts on the forum said it was just that their distributor was fitted 1 tooth out, but they had a Discovery engine with an SD1 distributor & front engine casing, which is exactly what I have.
Hopefully the parts will arrive in the next couple of days so we can try firing it up early next week.

[Manky Monkey]

Thanks to Mr Olds for sparing me some of his time this afternoon. A few wiring issues to sort out.
The 2 red wires on a single ring terminal, behind the dash, proved to be Earths for the indicator side repeaters.
What I thought might be a spare Live feed is actually an old switch connection that's no longer needed.
The horn doesn't work, but the relay does, so probably just the horn itself corroded. For the sake of 8 quid on Ebay, it's just as easy to replace it as rebuild it, so I've just ordered a new one.
The wipers/washers aren't working, which appears to be corrosion in the switch itself. Mr Olds is confident it's fixable.
The High Beam light doesn't work, but the test meter says there's high resistance in the circuit. The rear lights are disconnected though, which probably explains that.
The charging light doesn't work. Not sure about that one yet.
I know nothing at all about vehicle electrics. They've always baffled me, so hopefully Dave will be able to come back next week & work his magic on it all. Thanks matey. 

[Manky Monkey]

Hurrah! At last, we have life!
Huge thanks to Mr Olds & Chris, ("Forgotten"), for spending the day at the lock-up today. Still got the electrical problems to sort out, but finally ...finally, 2 years after the replacement engine went in, it burst into life this afternoon. Took most of the day to figure out why it didn't want to start & I'm not the sort of chap to point out that I suggested this morning that maybe the distributor was 180 degrees out, but...the dizzy was 180 degrees out. 
Now statically timed to 6 degrees before Top Dead Centre, as recommended by Mr Phunkie for the Pertronix electronic ignition we've got fitted. The HT leads are now back in the proper positions, new cap & rotor arm fitted.
Problems-
a water leak from the inlet manifold, where the water temp' gauge screws in. I've screwed in a new brass adaptor & it looks like there's a hair line crack in the casting now that leaks under pressure. We poured a bottle of K Seal in the rad though, as recommended by Mr Kapri & others & just as we turned the motor off, it stopped leaking, so either the seal did the trick, (it takes a few minutes to work through the system & find any leaks), or the pressure immediately dropped enough for it to stop dribbling. 2 of the core plugs were leaking last time I filled the rad. Too much water everywhere to tell at the moment, but I'll dry everything off tomorrow & see if they've sealed too.
Very low oil pressure. Only 8 - 10 showing on the gauge, (I'm assuming that's psi), but nearly 30 when it's revved. I bought the engine from someone who'd rebuilt it to go in a kitcar, so I've no idea what's inside it, but it's the same oil pump as I ran before. It's a 1990s Discovery motor, but I fitted the front engine casing from my old 1970s SD1 engine cos the water hose layout was different. So it has the same oil & water pumps as before.
We had plenty of oil showing on the dipstick when we started, but it may be low now as it's circulated & filled the hydraulic lifters, pump etc. We didn't check it before we left, so I'll have a look tomorrow. That might explain the low pressure.
We fired it up several times, but the last time it was just a little hesitant to start, but we'd fitted the air filter by then, so it might be running slightly lean now.
Otherwise, all seems good.
I've just had the brake discs skimmed, so need to refit those before we can think of driving it, as well as working out why several switches on the dash aren't working, (no ignition light, no wipers etc). So I'll spend the next couple of days cleaning up & repainting various parts in the engine bay, then we'll have another go.
I'm a very happy Monkey though. Thanks guys. 

Chris, delving into the engine bay, (small phone photos).

[Manky Monkey]

.

[Manky Monkey]

Water leak was along the side of the water temp' gauge housing. Possibly fixed now, possibly not.

[Manky Monkey]

A little video for your delectation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1EeiQ-ihJA

Running on open headers & setting off the neighbour's garage alarm. 

[stinkey]

  love it