Manky's Pop.

[Manky Monkey]

Seen at the NSRA swapmeet on Sunday. Made us grin.
(Kev Rooney's the SVA guru, who's advice we're taking to get the Pop through the registration process).

[Manky Monkey]

Still messing about with the fuel tank mounts, so nothing much to photograph. So I thought I'd show you the box of bits I've just received from Stafford Vehicle Components, (I always thought they were based in Staffordshire. Not so, the company was founded by a Mr Stafford).
Anyway, I bought-
A reversing light to match the stop/tail & indicator lamps we're going to fit.
A fog light, (same as the stop/tails but with a 21 watt halogen bulb fitted).
A matching pair of 2" diameter reflectors.
A Lucas ignition switch with built in side/low beam light switch, as used on many '50s British cars.
The fibreglass dash I picked up at the swapmeet the other day already has the 2" diameter  hole necessary to fit the switch. I noticed as I was snapping these that one of the chrome light bezels is missing. A quick phone call to Staffords & they've promised it'll be in the post tomorrow.

[Manky Monkey]

I also got this. Ooh, shiny stuff. I love shiny stuff!
A dual circuit remote brake servo. For those that don't know, a servo increases the pressure going to the brakes, using vacuum from the engine inlet manifold. This cost me the best part of a week's wages, but should hopefully lay to rest the only criticism that's been voiced over the car so far, namely that we're going to struggle to stop that big V8 with non assisted drums & discs.
I'm building a 50s style hotrod truck & keeping it deliberately basic so wasn't planning on having power brakes. I'd also like it to stop though. Didn't want a big servo mounted on the bulkhead in the engine bay & all the remote servos I looked at were only single circuit. The SVA regulations require dual circuit, (two seperate feeds from the master cylinder, going to either front & rear brakes, or diagonally, one front & one rear).
This unit measures roughly 15 inches long by 8 inches diameter. It has a feed in & a feed out on either end, plus 2 bleed nipples & a vacuum pipe feed in, so fairly simple to hook up. Only thing that's puzzling me is it doesn't seem to have any mounting points. Unlike normal servos that are connected to the brake pedal, this one can be mounted anywhere on the truck. Loony & I had a quick look the other day & decided we'd try & fit it in the space below the propshaft so it's coverd by the gearbox tunnel, (obviously low enough to allow for suspension travel, but not so low it'll poke out the bottom of the chassis).

[Manky Monkey]

4 mounting tabs made up & welded to the underside of the Reliant fuel tank.
Corresponding holes drilled in the support frame & tank bolted in place under the pick-up bed.

[Manky Monkey]

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[Manky Monkey]

Next we need a filler cap. Loony had a rummage through his spares pile & came up with this filler neck & lockable cap, from a Sym twist 'n' go scooter. Perfect.
As this tank's only temporary to get the Pop through the registration test -& maybe run with for a few months afterwards till the end of the season when we'll strip it down for a proper paint job- we're not going to bother with a fuel gauge. So the hole left by the sender unit is ideal for welding the filler neck to.
We're going to add a temporary plywood floor to the pick-up bed, with an access hole cut in it for the filler. At this height, the cap should be almost flush with the bed floor.

[Manky Monkey]

PD's Suzuki, primed, ready for some fresh paint, courtesy of Mr Lunatic.

[Manky Monkey]

Now I need a feed pipe, to take the fuel from the tank to the carb. As we're not using the Reliant fuel gauge, I trimmed the gubbins off to leave a simple pipe & filter.

[Manky Monkey]

Hole drilled in the tank & pipe welded in place. The filter sits about 5mm off the bottom of the tank.

[Manky Monkey]

With only a short time to play in the workshop this afternoon, I then started folding up some 3mm steel sheet to form a battery box.

[Manky Monkey]

Even less time at Loony's tonight, so cut the box sides & welded them all together -being very careful not to breathe in the fumes as the steel plate had some sort of galvanised type coating on it.
The welds will need smoothing off with a sanding pad on the angle grinder cos the box is a pretty tight fit in the chassis & won't drop into place with lumpy welds.

[Manky Monkey]

Another new project in the workshop. A local lad wants PD & Loony to hardtail his Yam' XS650 frame. So the chaps spent an evening setting up a jig on the welding table to make sure it goes together straight & true.

[panthershaun]

good to see them practicing  they should be ready for the Reliant Bobber when I finally get around to it  I did mention to Loony that I might want them to build the frame  didn't I 

[Clive]

Their place really looks like somewhere I should visit!!!!!

Clive

[Manky Monkey]

Bring that Sportster tank with you when you do then please! It's pencilled in for use on that XS650.