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kapri
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« Reply #1095 on: September 01, 2016, 09:18:56 AM » |
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I can help you on that one Dave having had some hands on experience .What more slave cylinders are you running front and rear ?
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
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« Reply #1096 on: September 01, 2016, 02:27:06 PM » |
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 More experience than you would've liked on the Pop Kev!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Olds
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« Reply #1097 on: September 01, 2016, 09:05:18 PM » |
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7/8" bore (22.2mm) front and rear Kev. Ford RS Escort rears on the front and original Morris 8 on the back end. Not thought any more about this as I have the wifes Volvo in bits at the moment. If anyone decides to change the water pump and VVT pulley on a Volvo, DON'T. Send it to a garage to get it done or scrap the car. There is no sodding room around the engine. I hate modern cars,  |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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kapri
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« Reply #1098 on: September 02, 2016, 05:18:03 PM » |
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On a single twin circuit ( or single circuit) I would recommend a 7/8 mc WITH servo with a 4-5:1 pedal ratio.
On a normal car fitted with no servo , twin master cylinders and 6:1 pedal ratio I would recommend both m/cs be 5/8ths.
My concern is that the lighweight nature of yours that the 5/8 would be TOO efficient and whilst passing BIVA easily would give over sensitive breaking on the road causing premature lock up.
I had the same problem on the POS and had to increase m/c bore to decrease line pressure to get it to stop.
I'd recommend twin 3/4 mc which will still give 1300-1400 line pressure which is equivalent to roughly a servoed single 3/4.
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kapri
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« Reply #1099 on: September 02, 2016, 05:18:57 PM » |
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Almost forgot Rally Design have the best price and variable cylinders ie fixed reservoir or remote etc.
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Olds
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« Reply #1100 on: September 02, 2016, 08:06:16 PM » |
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Thanks Kev. I have a pair of nos 5/8" Girling masters and my existing pedal ratio is 6:1 so will probably try this to start with, unless I find a cheap 3/4" dual master. Non servo naturally. Trying to keep this as primative as possible and with very skinny crossplys, it would be very easy to have too much braking. The pedal height is almost hip height, so low pedal pressure should not be a problem.  |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #1101 on: September 09, 2016, 10:18:55 AM » |
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I am missing a load of wheel nuts so here are the new stainless steel ones. Well, will be once I get around to machining them. They are a peculiar size, being 3/8"BSF and the only ones I could find were from an Austin Seven specialist at nearly £7 EACH ! |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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the coppersmith
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« Reply #1102 on: September 09, 2016, 10:45:41 AM » |
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You are missing the parting tool and the 8.2 tapping drill, plus the load of coolant,tapping fluid required for blinking Stainless  good luck with 16 of them or is it 20? |
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Sid_Vicious
Jr. Member
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« Reply #1103 on: September 09, 2016, 11:36:36 AM » |
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Isn't it six nuts on each wheel?
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Nothing is impossible, It just take longer time to figure it out
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Olds
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« Reply #1104 on: September 09, 2016, 01:25:13 PM » |
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Yep. 24 studs in all but at the moment I'm only planning on making 12, as I have 12 good original ones plus a few not so great. 18mm AF 303 stainless hex bar. Near enough the same size as the original nuts 45/64" AF (13/16" Whitworth  ) and being 303 it should be reasonable to machine. |
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« Last Edit: September 09, 2016, 06:30:55 PM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #1105 on: September 11, 2016, 03:37:52 PM » |
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Been busy but got around to setting up the lathe and make the first nut as a tester.
As it's stainless I upped the tapping drill to 8.4mm and this seems to have worked fine.
Had a slight problem with the first tap. Just couldn't get it to cut at all. Closer examination revealed that I had been sent a LH thread one !
One down, lots to go. I can leave everthing set up and do them one at a time, as and when.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Sid_Vicious
Jr. Member
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« Reply #1106 on: September 11, 2016, 05:29:51 PM » |
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You will have a nice set of nuts when you're done |
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Nothing is impossible, It just take longer time to figure it out
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Olds
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« Reply #1107 on: September 12, 2016, 03:37:39 PM » |
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But they won't be on public view (unless a hubcap falls off). As if I don't have enough to do, I sort of backed myself into a corner regarding making a 1930s mg style, racing radiator cap IVA compliant like I did the Aston fuel cap. Seeing as how bad reproductions are $375 and are a bit big, I am going to try to make the complete thing. This may end in total disaster but it's worth trying. Pic of an original.
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« Last Edit: September 12, 2016, 03:42:47 PM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #1108 on: September 12, 2016, 06:11:26 PM » |
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Pattern made for casting the body.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Mendalot
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« Reply #1109 on: September 12, 2016, 06:58:42 PM » |
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Precision Guesswork ......... What else do you need?
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