New Olds (boat tail speedster)

[spanners]

i used ,FLUXOVITE, paste in a tin,,or,BAKERS, solering fluid . when i used to do it years back

[stinkey]

With more gas, managed to get the tinning almost finished. Pic also shows the new 5mm diameter safe edge welded in place.

Safe edge on the rear of the mudguard ?  I'm surprised they don't want a rubber bumper around the complete vehicle ( ala bumper cars ?)
Nice work though Mr P..

[Olds]

God forbid that anything be less than rounded. That gearlever I spent so much time forging is a definite no-no.

I used Bakers Fluid flux, capilliary solder for tinning and what I think is 60/40 lead/tin as a filler. Not sure as to the exact makeup as the bar is probably 40 years old and the makers don't use the same numbering system anymore.
I have used standard lead fee solder and this is OK but has a narrow temperature band between solid and liquid. Makes it hard to keep at the butter stage, but is healthier for you to work with.

[the coppersmith]

another dying art, I spent three months as an apprentice in the lead work depot. Spent most of it learning to make solder nipples for Arrestor wires on aircraft carriers. I still get the odd call to repair lead pipes, and make roof flashings etc. Lead is now considered bad for you even in small quantities. Along with cadmium brazing, arsenic in copper, I'm surprised I'm still kicking or have I built up an immunity 

[Mendalot]

In the video I watched yesterday, he was using Tinning Butter, which is a paste with acid and lead particals mixed in. The surface is heated and the paste rubbed over with a copper dish scourer held in mole grips, the effect was instant tinning. This is the vid, if anyone is interested ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87fuTnBS2bE

[Olds]

Not going to go through it all with the second mudguard except to show that, to try to get the rear flare to match the first (well nearly), after slitting the mudguard I bent the 5mm safe edge hoop, welded it at the ends then beat the mudguard out to meet it. Just need to make and weld in the infill sections.

[Olds]

Due to difficulties in ensuring that all those bonnet louvers meet iva requirements I will probably have to cover them or make new bonnet tops.
Prototype hammered out of aluminium sheet. Think I need to simplify the design.

[Manky Monkey]

I think you're way too clever. 

[Mendalot]

Blimey Dave!!!  Thats a work of art.  Mr IVA man may not notice anything else when he see's those

[Olds]

I wish, but thank you.
If I go ahead with this, I have to make twelve of these.  Six pairs graduated in width, from 4" to 8" so to have any chance of them looking remotely similar, even if simplified, I figured that a hammer form would be required to shape the metal over.
Pic shows it being roughed out from a slab of 20mm thick steel. Not sure how well this will work.

[stinkey]

I think you shouldn't worry to much about being perfect..let people see the slight difference it gives it lif/soul/character sir..bloody great work

[Olds]

Lots of scope for what you call life/soul/character in making these even with the hammer form. All it does, is allow me to form the corners with some degree of repeatability. Making relatively tight radius compound curves in sheet aluminium is awkward.
Tester

[Manky Monkey]

Not sure how well this will work.

We all know how it'll work Dave -bloomin' annoyingly perfectly, as always. I suspect you've done a deal with the Devil for your skills Sir.

[Olds]

 

[Olds]

Trying to get my head around sizing the dual circuit master cylinder.
If I go for two seperate master cylinders with an adjustable balance bar I would just half the cross sectional area of the existing master but with a dual circuit cylinder with it's equalising ports etc. it's not making sense.
Perhaps I'm just tired.