New Olds (boat tail speedster)

[kapri]

Lights are e and j style ones?

Yup,same as I had on my old B modified.

[triker_Chewie]

 

[Manky Monkey]

You mean things like, steering that has a mind of it's own, tall skinny crossplys that are never quite round with suspect grip levels, suspension from an ox cart, uncomfortable, draughty, noisy, oily,.................. ? Oh such fun!

-that all sounds horribly familiar!
Welcome back Kev. 

-and those doors are just ...wrong.

[Olds]

Extended the gear lever just to see how bad it would be.  Neutral to second or forth, not bad but for first and third I would have to cut slots up into the dash  Got to fit a remote gear change to the remote gear change, or more likely alter the existing remote with a short shift adaptor, as for some reason I quite like the idea of the long lever.

[Manky Monkey]

At least you're thinking of this stuff now Dave. If it was me I wouldn't discover that till after I'd finished it.

[Olds]

  Sure that's not true.
A bad back means no garage today, so for diversional therapy I decided to wrap the steering wheel. It's a good idea to shut out the cat before you start because you will drop the ball of string.

[Olds]

I used a fairly small diameter cord/string. A larger diameter would speed things up and give a fatter wheel but this is the look I am after.
A coat of varnish will stop it getting filthy or rotting but still giving good grip.

[the coppersmith]

like that a lot, very period.

[Manky Monkey]

I bought a wheel for our T bucket project a couple of weeks ago -it's waiting for you to bind at Loony's workshop Dave. 

[Olds]

 
There are all sorts of fancy ways of doing this but I figured simple would be the best and easiest choice. So easy even a monkey could do it 
The wheel is unusually in near perfect condition and it seems a shame to cover it up.
 

[Olds]

Probably one of the best bargains I've bought recently. A new old stock, cast iron steering box housing for £10. These wear, where the output shaft goes through. This would normally mean having the bore machined and bushes fitted. Don't think these have been made since the 1950s so I doubt there are many new ones about.
Will be easier to make a new column than separate the old one from it's housing, perhaps in stainless for a bit of bling

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, I fancied having a go at string binding, maybe stained pale brown, (I was thinking of dying the string in tea). Is there a reason the string crosses the top spoke but not the other two Dave? Maybe to mark the top of the wheel as some race cars do?
We managed to break the aluminium casting on the Pop steering box before we'd even got the car on the road, by trying to turn the wheel beyond the end of it's travel. I found a second box & we're more careful with it now, never turning the steering wheel until the road wheels are rolling, but I do worry it'll go again at some point -it's the weakest link in the steering set-up.

[Olds]

If you are worried about breaking the steering box, perhaps changing it to something stronger like a series II Land Rover one might be worth considering. The Morris one is cast steel, so unlikely to break but there is still quite a load on it when not rolling.
The stringing is like this because with a single stringing, when you reach a spoke the winding direction changes meaning on one spoke the cord has to go over the front. So I figured I'd make a feature of it.
Looking to put the lights, trafficators and horn switches into the wheel centre. With a foot operated dip switch. This should leave the dash clear of switches except for the ignition.

[Manky Monkey]

Should look good.

[Olds]

Not much room down the centre of the column but using small diameter wire and relays it should be possible    Have to look up if indicators  or trafficators are a legal requirement. If not might run without them. I can always give hand signals  

Seems since the vehicle was built after 1-1-1936 some form of indicators are required but it can be the side/tail lights or trafficators.