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ROD
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« on: May 02, 2014, 08:08:31 PM » |
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So As you all recall my water system probs with top of rad lower than the top of engine. ::)I went round in ever decreasing circles before, but didnt solve the problem.I tried a header tank system but this also wasnt succesful.So as someone suggested (Merv?) at the time, put the filler in the top hose.So....I have 2 options...firstly,'T' into the top hose with filler and pressure cap on top...OR...secondly, build a new thermostat housing with a vertical tube with pressure cap on top, and a 'T' just below it to connect the rad top hose to.
So any comments?
Thanks
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
Karma: 264
Posts: 55102
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« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2014, 08:33:29 PM » |
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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ROD
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« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2014, 08:41:30 PM » |
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Sort of, but the neck with the cap on needs to be higher.Can be bought alot cheaper on e bay.
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hunter
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« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2014, 09:11:10 PM » |
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I
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Olds
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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2014, 09:15:26 PM » |
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If the top hose is the highest point not sure why you say the cap needs to be even higher than the moroso item. If you go this way make sure the filler takes a standard cap. Some use a small cap like the Japanese bike ones but they all seem to be about 1.1bar pressure. Think you will also still need an expansion tank. Normally the Reliant rad allows for the expansion volume, but now this will always be full of coolant.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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ROD
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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2014, 09:29:36 PM » |
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Thanks for the input guys its most appreciated.TBH I really dont know the best route to take .Im going to have another look at it tomorrow. The rad cant be raised.Im not going to mess about with header tanks again.
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Olds
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« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2014, 07:03:43 AM » |
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Rod , I would think more along the lines of just using a standard blank rad cap with the extension welded to it and ending in another rad top end to take a normal 7 lbs rad cap ?
Think this could actually work. If going this route I think you will need to blank off the existing overflow, have a new overflow at the new filler cap, and ensure that you have enough space in the extension tube, above the thermostat outlet level to allow for at least 4 per cent coolant volume change (120ml min). It would then act as your expansion zone. A bleed screw fitted to the thermostat housing or preferably the top hose (highest point) would aid filling. Just an idea  |
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« Last Edit: May 03, 2014, 07:28:24 AM by Old Newbie »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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merv
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« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2014, 07:30:33 AM » |
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What old's says, also if you look down the page you can request what length you require.
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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ROD
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« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2014, 08:00:05 AM » |
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Hmmm...extending the height of the filler neck was one of the ideas kapri suggested way back, but I wasnt keen due to space reqd for expansion.it would have to be quite tall, as it would not only have to make up the height difference of rad to eng, but also have to have expansion space.
Another idea I have is to blank off the rad cap and overflow, then fit a small tank with top hose from eng in one side and top hose to rad out the other with a 7lb rad cap on top with overflow in neck.If I recall right , I think a similar brass header tank was fitted on the old mk4 zodiacs.
I tried a completely sealed system before, it didnt work efficiently, and was a spaghetti junction of pipes and crap, looked apalling.
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Olds
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« Reply #11 on: May 03, 2014, 08:18:47 AM » |
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Yep, you are right, rectangular tank with mounts brazed to it, large inlet one end and outlet on the bottom I think. That would definitely give you enough expansion room. |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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ROD
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« Reply #12 on: May 03, 2014, 11:16:19 AM » |
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Theres no space to extend the rad cap vertically.The rad might just fit in up tight to the w/pump pulley, but the rad will then be a lot HIGHER than the engine!Been staring at it for a couple of hours, seems like I may cut the frame to allow the rad to sit correctly.This isnt gonna be easy, and I will have to plan it carefully.The brakes, and wiring will all have be rerouted.Really cant be arsed TBH!
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ROD
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« Reply #13 on: May 03, 2014, 12:36:19 PM » |
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So ive just stripped down the rad and trial fitted it in a new position.It will just about fit , but means the top hose stub on the rad is now HIGHER THAN THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING by about 2 or 3 inches. Comments?
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Olds
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« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2014, 02:39:50 PM » |
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Could be 23" and still not be a problem.
I assume you are fitting it inside the frame down tubes instead of out front.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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