April 23, 2026, 09:57:09 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Manky Monkey Motors Merchandise now available Cool Items at cool prices http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/merchandise.html
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: 1 [2]
  Print  
Author Topic: Reliant Rebel gearshift  (Read 7903 times)
terry t
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 35
Posts: 2475



« Reply #15 on: November 07, 2013, 11:26:42 PM »

May be able to modify one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111205379048?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_928wt_1170

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161141696261?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_768wt_932
Logged
Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 264
Posts: 55102



WWW
« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2013, 11:28:35 PM »

Hopefully Steve's reading this, (he's having trouble posting at the moment), so thanks for the ideas chaps.
Logged

On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
kapri
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 71
Posts: 1622


« Reply #17 on: November 07, 2013, 11:36:36 PM »

Looks similar to old Wooler and GT Ford linkages . Basically it reverses the normal action where it attches to the box and then re-reverses it to put back to 'normal'. Isn't it a question of one rod being pushed from below pivot point and then the other having the pivot point in the middle ?
Logged
hunter
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 88
Posts: 3344



« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2013, 11:42:31 PM »

Andy remember this.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll259/spares_photos/DSC_1590.jpg
Reliant Rebel gearshift


Logged

I
spanners
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 148
Posts: 8769



« Reply #19 on: November 07, 2013, 11:43:58 PM »

Looks similar to old Wooler and GT Ford linkages . Basically it reverses the normal action where it attches to the box and then re-reverses it to put back to 'normal'. Isn't it a question of one rod being pushed from below pivot point and then the other having the pivot point in the middle ?

like the remote that they fitted to the corsair gt inplace of the early long stick Huh?
Logged

LIVE FAST  and  DIE YOUNG,,  past 50 AND STILL HERE  NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
fifer
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 52
Posts: 1116



WWW
« Reply #20 on: November 07, 2013, 11:46:11 PM »

The following was posted on the Reliant World forum by member Red Rebel
I do not know if you can see the images if you click on the link below if you view as a guest ?

http://www.reliantworld.co.uk/index.php?threads/red-rebel-a-update.393/

The following is the extract , minus the images ;

Another modification I've been working on is a fully synchro' Gearbox -
The early semi-synchro rebel Gearbox is derived from the Regal but has a much longer mainshaft and a tailshaft extension with remote gearchange mounted on top -
This remote is a precise feeling short throw setup which gained much praise in period reviews (virtually always considered best in its class).
Later 750cc Rebels have a fully synchro gearbox but lost the remote change, as well as having synchromesh on first/second this box also benefits from a higher ratio gearset and better parts availability (close ratio gear-sets are also available for this box!).
I decided to build a gearbox based on the 750 box but having the benefits of the early boxes Remote Change, this is complicated somewhat as reverse is a longer throw on the later box as well as being in a different position.

Having decided to create the ultimate Rebel gearbox it stood to reason the antiquated carbon clutch release bearing setup should be engineered out -
Later three wheelers use a Ford Fiesta/escort roller bearing clutch - although this was only made as a cable operated setup.
I've decided on a hydraulically operated system as this will be smoother and more robust, this has required welding bushes into the bell-housing to take a vertical cross-shaft to mount the Ford bearing on.
All Rebels (and most 3 wheelers) are fitted with inertia starters -
When starting from hot it inevitably takes two or three attempts before the engine fully catches as the inertia starter gets kicked out as soon as the engine try's to fire.

Very late three wheelers have a pre-engaged starter and therefore a different bell-housing, unfortunately these gearboxes are not compatible with a Rebel tailshaft extension so I've taken a section from one of these later bell-housing and welded it into my inertia gearbox.

The end result will be a Franken'Gearbox which will have synchromesh on all gears. Short throw remote gearchange, Pre-engaged starter and Hydrualicly operated Ford Roller Bearing Clutch,
This is built using entirely New old Stock components with the exception of the Mainshaft and the case.

Overview of modified gearbox with remote change unfitted: [​IMG]


Section removed from original bell-housing: [​IMG]


Showing section from late pre-engaged box welded in and (unfinished) clutch operating shaft and arm fitted:
[​IMG]


Arrangement of Ford release bearing - Note newly drilled inspection hole filled with rubber plug for checking bearing once fitted to car: [​IMG]


I've modified the flywheel from the standard 3 bolt fixing:.... [​IMG]


And drilled and threaded the crankshaft to suit:.... [​IMG]

Logged

Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
Olds
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 153
Posts: 5562



« Reply #21 on: November 08, 2013, 07:45:22 AM »

I have the same gearshift pattern ie. first left and back band have no problem with it.
Might be worth having a look at what the Austin seven guys have done.
Bottom of the page.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/speedex/index_files/Page1138.htm
Logged

Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
Olds
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 153
Posts: 5562



« Reply #22 on: November 08, 2013, 08:51:57 AM »

Just had a thought. Might be possible to use an Austin A35/A40, MG Midget/Sprite remote with some modification and an adaptor plate.
Logged

Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
kapri
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 71
Posts: 1622


« Reply #23 on: November 08, 2013, 02:34:05 PM »

Looks similar to old Wooler and GT Ford linkages . Basically it reverses the normal action where it attches to the box and then re-reverses it to put back to 'normal'. Isn't it a question of one rod being pushed from below pivot point and then the other having the pivot point in the middle ?

like the remote that they fitted to the corsair gt inplace of the early long stick Huh?

Yup, that's the style Mike.
Logged
kapri
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 71
Posts: 1622


« Reply #24 on: November 08, 2013, 02:35:34 PM »

I have the same gearshift pattern ie. first left and back band have no problem with it.
Might be worth having a look at what the Austin seven guys have done.
Bottom of the page.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/speedex/index_files/Page1138.htm

To help get my head round this where is first normally?
Logged
Olds
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 153
Posts: 5562



« Reply #25 on: November 08, 2013, 05:12:49 PM »

Left and forward.
Seeing as length of box is not that important (unlike a trike)  is it possible to use a complete A series rwd gearbox/bellhousing
Logged

Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
kapri
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 71
Posts: 1622


« Reply #26 on: November 09, 2013, 10:00:01 AM »

Is it only first position that is reversed or the entire shift pattern ?
Logged
Olds
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 153
Posts: 5562



« Reply #27 on: November 09, 2013, 10:55:57 AM »

I should imagine that like mine 1st and 2nd are swapped 3rd and 4th are swapped. The H pattern is reversed top to bottom
This happens when you have a sliding pivot in the centre of the gear link rod and the rod is attached below the gear lever ball joint.
If you attach the rod above the ball joint the H pattern reverses side to side - 1st and 3rd swap, 2nd and 4th swap.
Logged

Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
hunter
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 88
Posts: 3344



« Reply #28 on: November 09, 2013, 11:36:20 AM »

I should imagine that like mine 1st and 2nd are swapped 3rd and 4th are swapped. The H pattern is reversed top to bottom
This happens when you have a sliding pivot in the centre of the gear link rod and the rod is attached below the gear lever ball joint.
If you attach the rod above the ball joint the H pattern reverses side to side - 1st and 3rd swap, 2nd and 4th swap.


And what position is revers gear.
Logged

I
brock
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 31
Posts: 1502



« Reply #29 on: November 11, 2013, 11:09:07 PM »

    AH HA , they said it couldn't be done , but posting privileges reinstated . Actually most said it could be done if it wasn't for the moron at the controls and there may be some merit in that .

    Right , thanks for the responses , I did have a look at the deep sided clevis type arrangement and that would probably have worked but I need the best part of three foot of extension (  Lips Sealed ) and it all gets a bit vauge and wibbly at that length , also I just had it in mind that there was a more elegant solution out there somewhere . I think Kev got the first real hit with the pivot needing to be below the shaft but my simple little mind couldn't quite grasp how I was going to do that , then Dave mentioned Midget / Sprite boxes and a quick search showed up a dealer with exploded diagrams , like a bloody light going on , one small change to one end and everything seems to work as it should , on the bench at least , I'll get it finished and in the car by the weekend hopefully . Assuming it does work I'll take photos and post them somewhere , there's no reason it wouldn't work forward , backward or even sideways , may be of some help to someone .
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!