Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls......

[ROD]

Yeah ,I think so too.
 Main priority is to find another engine this week,as Im off work at the moment and have the time to do it.
  Im also looking into chopping the frame down tubes,making them more upright so that rad fits behind tubes, and rebuilding that area to accomodate the rad in same position as the Reliant has. Not easy as have to brace the frame before we chop it,re make the engine mounts etc.got my welder man coming round tonight for a feasability study..........I think Ive got enuf tube of the right diam.
 
 I'll have a look at the pistons and report back ........
 
 UPDATE.....All 4 pistons have "STD " with the arrow facing front,so appear OK.
  re valves,I seem to remember A couple of valves were replaced cos they were slightly bent.He said the rest of the valves and all the guides  were ok,so he refaced the valves.but I dont know which ones were replaced. Valve stem seals were replaced,although that doesnt mean they havent split/worn.
  Just looked at invoice. Less than what I thought for his work....£600 odd quid.The invoice is a bit vague,but I do have a list and prices of a lot of the part numbers.Couple of them looking 'interesting' 'B4243-020' £67.17...  and...'M3428-020' £87.00 Maybe theyre the pistons and liners .......,and Im guessing "020" is "plus 20"?
 
 My theory on this is that the overheating was most likely caused by lumps of sealer floating around in the block,and being pulled to various orifices as the coolant pumped harder ie faster speed.A lot of the sealer was around the dodgy liner area,so could have been blocking its coolant path ,engine got hotter etc etc .When I cleaned it out I noticed one clump of sealer was very easy to hook up and pull to one of the holes,proving it could have been floating about.
 
  Maybe the ring marks are where the piston sat in the cylinder(ie rings 'parked') when it was shut down after overheating?
 
 

[kapri]

How many miles has this engine done since rebuild ?  Did it come back to you totally assembled or machined for you to put back together?

[ROD]

around 1500/2000 miles.Came with head assembled,'short' block ie pistons/crank assembled. I supplied and did the rest,ie new oil/water pump etc and fitted head to block
 
 Another update...A reputable Reliant co has just told me that the area of the block between no2 and no3 cycls  is very thin and could be cracked as they are known for it....hmmm...no2 is the one thats picking up! Also the amount of sealer sounds excessive!

[digger06]

yup, thats were i was on about one cyl blowing into the other cyl

one of the cheapest ways to get an engine is buy a car complete, you can test it then first,
  then break the rest,

[terry t]

Rod those letters and numbers must be for main and big end bearings you had the crank reground.
Your pistons have std stamped on them so i take it the rings and liners will be std as well

[ROD]

Ah ,yes youre right! I thought the liners and pistons would be the most expensive,so went for the most expensive things on the list!
 
 Not blowing across the gasket though. He reckoned it could be a crack in the block,only visible from underneath, inside the block.

   Whatever,I will have to get another engine,Terry is right,there are probably other probs with this engine. I agree about getting a complete car,but finding one etc is difficult..have you seen the prices??
   Ive found an engine in a running and used car,which Ive been told is ok,so will prob go for that,but even so its still £300 without ancilleries..some are even dearer!
 
 Doesnt look like re-shaping the down tubes to accomodate rad is a goer,as it is a huge amount of work,moving,re routing and extending brake lines,electrics etc So was wondering what the panel think re using the rad in existing position with the expansion tank system. Have an idea to re do the tank to make it all more pleasing to the eye! ie without all that pipework jungle! Any comments? Will the expansion system work?

[ROD]

Just stripped the engine and pulled the offending piston to look at no2 pot liner...
  The piston has started to pick up from below the bottom ring,on one side only.It has vertical lines and dull areas on it.
   The liner has those horizontal rings round it all the way down to roughly where the bottom ring would 'park' at the pistons lowest point of travel.
 Have looked up inside the block at the area between liners 2 and 3,but even with a bright lamp,cant see any cracking,although there is a web between the liners which isnt completely visible.Taking the block back to the garage tomorrow.

[terry t]

Hi Rod. Can you confirm exactly what your doing with this Trike 
At the moment you have 2 threads running in Trike Tech and 2 running in the Classified
just so we know what one to answer to

[andyrennison]

Rod. Take a breath - or 50. Fix the engine. Fix the trike. Ride her a while. Then decide.

[ROD]

You are right Terry! I started the other thread to talk specifically about cooling,so that others building /having probs, wont have the probs I have,but it has gone off course a bit !
  I updated this thread re the piston removal etc so that all those who have so helpfully contributed to the saga knew what was happening.I do hope someone out there has taken note of the discussion,thus avoiding the probs, and wont have the hassle Ive had.There were quite a few things that if I had been told at the outset of building I would have taken heed of,but I had to learn the hard way.
  What Im trying to do is fix the trike to allow me to sell it,as Ive had enuf of all the hassle,but I dont want to just botch it and sell it ,I want it to be right for the eventual buyer.Very sincere apologies if Ive confused anyone,or misled anyone . I'll make sure I only contribute in future if I have something substantial to say.
    Thanks

[terry t]

You are right Terry! I started the other thread to talk specifically about cooling,so that others building /having probs, wont have the probs I have,but it has gone off course a bit !
  I updated this thread re the piston removal etc so that all those who have so helpfully contributed to the saga knew what was happening.I do hope someone out there has taken note of the discussion,thus avoiding the probs, and wont have the hassle Ive had.There were quite a few things that if I had been told at the outset of building I would have taken heed of,but I had to learn the hard way.
  What Im trying to do is fix the trike to allow me to sell it,as Ive had enuf of all the hassle,but I dont want to just botch it and sell it ,I want it to be right for the eventual buyer.Very sincere apologies if Ive confused anyone,or misled anyone . I'll make sure I only contribute in future if I have something substantial to say.
    Thanks

Good so lets sort the engine out 1st and let us know what the engine builder says
Rod now you have part stripped the engine can you check the piston ring gap

[morrag]

Hope you get a result with the origional engine builders Rod,for some recompense at the very least, and if a replacement motor can be sourced, so much the better. Regarding multiple forum threads, I found they all made interesting reading, so no probs. as far as I'm concerned, so onwards and upwards old Buddy!! ....Morrag

[scannerzer]

I found this all interesting too as i'm not that far off having to get mine up and running and the cooling system wouldn't be my strong point

[andyrennison]

The same thought crossed my mind. All your struggles will benefit us all Rod, but i expect that is little comfort at the moment.

[terry t]

Yes i agree with you all. i just wanted to know what Rod was doing,  posted for sale without engine then app 2hrs later about going back to see the engine builder and the expantion tank so if it gets sold then no one will know it any of this or the expantion tank thread will work