Bleedin' radiator! HELP/discuss pls......

[spanners]

advancing the timing at high rpm ,wont, cause overheating  but, retarding it may do,,,

[ROD]

Right...Ive now re -read all the numbers as my originals were a bit mismatching..this is what they definitely are........
  Eng number  8K/85/85332 (May give a clue as to engine internals eg cam?)
 
  On the Vac unit...54404289..This is the part number I believe
                          3-10-7..the 'characteristics'
 
 
    on the dizzy body....41961A   45D4    2184
 
  How do I relate the Vac unit number 3-10-7 to my particular prob?
 
 At present Im setting the timing at TDC with a strobe,and sometimes by hand,but it seems to run equally well either way of TDC.Although I havent tested it at higher speeds.
 
 Gotta go away and have a long read of the other links now,or sit on a beach and stare at the waves or summat.

[terry t]

what happenend to 41981a 

[Olds]

what happenend to 41981a 

Probably not wearing glasses

  At present Im setting the timing at TDC

Mine definitely ran hotter when timed at TDC (as per Haynes) started OK but poor top end. Now timed at 10Deg BTDC. (Strobe with vac disconnected) Starts first time and runs sweet

[terry t]

what happenend to 41981a 

Probably not wearing glasses

  At present Im setting the timing at TDC

Mine definitely ran hotter when timed at TDC (as per Haynes) started OK but poor top end. Now timed at 10Deg BTDC. (Strobe with vac disconnected) Starts first time and runs sweet

Glasses or not if its not timed up right in the first place then all this is a waste of time

[digger06]

ignore haynes....time at 10 deg btdc its better usually, most run crap at tdc,
tbh, i run mine at where the tickover is best, set by ear, its usually around 10 btdc anyway,
reliant timing marks are ,at best, inaccurate
all this wont matter if the mech advance is the wrong one though, most think your strobing for high revs too if the vacs off, your not,
the mech bob weights mainly do that, if they are off a landy,etc, the timings wrong as soon as the weights fly out

IF you find this to be the cause, you can get a complete simon bcc non points dizzy AND coil for 65 quid brand new,
brill things, just get the basic package, anything else is unnecessary...

do you live near any other members that could lend you a dizzy?you have no location,its a 10 min job to try one out

[ROD]

Terry..got the numbers wrong ..too much vino,and couldnt find me readers last night!
No members about. I agree re the timing,I like to set it by ear,but thought I would go with the strobe @tdc.Yes,Ive heard the timing marks are all over the place.Always starts first touch of the button,and ticks over fine,wherever it is around tdc!
I'll go look at the Simonbcc site. I got the elec ign from them,seem a good outfit.

[morrag]

Whilst the timing method "pros and cons" may be interesting Rod, I believe it bears no relevance to your overheating probs. as in my experience you would require the motor to be massively retarded before it would present the overheating levels you are experiencing, and the flatness in overall performance would also be very apparent anyway!I'm convinced you difficulties are internal, if you get my drift! Morrag

[ROD]

I have thought that,and also the £75 Dizzy is another pay out ,but I really dont know where to go from here. The advance mechansism is defintely not the right one.My thinking is that I really dont want to have to get the head off,which means engine out etc,so Im clutching at straws with the periferal things!
   Its got to go,but I would really like to cure it ,as I genuinely dont want to hoodwink anyone when I sell it,especially when everything else on it is more or less new.

[Olds]

Tend to agree that buying a new dizzy will not make that much difference. True it might not be 'right' but it wont be so very wrong.
This is so frustrating and it's not even my trike!
I know that the head gasket will fit two ways, but is only right one way. Anyone know if this is for oil and water ways or just to line up oil ways.
Is there any possibility it got fitted the wrong way around?

[ROD]

I remember going into this when I fitted it ,and Im sure I got it right way round..but....!
 
 Have read elsewhere that it isnt too bad if the holes dont line up exactly,as the slight mis alignment holds coolant in the head by slowing down flow,this in turn prevents hot spots which can form air pockets. This is one of the reasons they use a swirl pot on race cars with these engines.....
 Apparently......

[digger06]

Whilst the timing method "pros and cons" may be interesting Rod, I believe it bears no relevance to your overheating probs. as in my experience you would require the motor to be massively retarded before it would present the overheating levels you are experiencing, and the flatness in overall performance would also be very apparent anyway!I'm convinced you difficulties are internal, if you get my drift! Morrag

i agree there,  just buying a new dizzy hoping for a cure will be maybe a waste of money, if the timing is retarded like others say. i didnt know which way a landy etc advance unit would push the timing, it was just an idea as i knew the differences gave problems,

[ROD]

Its not a Landy one,I got the numbers wrong mate.

[digger06]

well, at least thats one thing less that ISNT causing it then

[ROD]

Getting right back to basics......Im still wondering whether it is lack of air flow at constant higher speed (50/60mph) cos the rad sits at an angle,as the rad and existing fan seems to cope at around town speeds.Im going to chop the frame down tubes and make them more upright to accomodate the rad in an upright position in front of the engine,and behind the tubes, as opposed to existing in front of tubes.This will allow me to remove the expansion tank and all the pipework jumble and go back to basics of engine/stat/ rad and fan all at the same height as per the Reliant has.I realise Andy (and others) had a rear rad set up,but they had large fans,mine is only a bike fan.