|
scannerzer
|
 |
« Reply #240 on: April 08, 2013, 08:02:04 PM » |
|
this type of change works really well ,feels natural and is free of excess movement
provided all your parts are fairly close fitting .well worth doing
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
trikerpete
Hero Member
Karma: 30
Posts: 3585
like a head with a sore bear :)
|
|
« Reply #241 on: April 08, 2013, 09:19:37 PM » |
|
The rod through the chassis sleve is at the same level as the point of rotation of the original gearstick ball. The upper rod is pivoted, so depressing the gear knowb raises the original stick and vice versa. The pivot arm moves forwards and backwards in tandem with the new gear stick, this provides an extra push pull on the original gear stick. The new gear stick can move up and down.
Ahha, it makes sense now Ive seen the latest drawing showing the "2 piece" new gear stick with spring underneath  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
what do you mean, I cant do that !! |
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #242 on: April 10, 2013, 06:53:01 PM » |
|
as it turnes out the brake air tank i was giong to use as a petrol tank won't fit just about
anywhere i want to put it,bad desighing on my behalf but now i've got to roll with it.
my thoughts are to make a tank to fit under the rack on the back and above the prop but
i have some questions
what thickness metal should i use
would folded corner's welded inside and out be better or would butt welded corners do the job
would i need to get it lined with something to make it more leak resistant
does it have to meet any standard to pass msva
thanks all
eddie
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Olds
|
|
« Reply #243 on: April 10, 2013, 09:44:31 PM » |
|
Material thickness sort of depends on the type of material used as does the welding/soldering/brazing.
I made my oval tank with steel 1mm skin with 1.6mm ends and baffles, mig welded. ground. then welded again.
I did line it, that was a disaster but it's not leaked yet.
Any reason why you're not using a conventional bike tank? Or perhaps a locost tank might do.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
|
|
|
morrag
Hero Member
Karma: 49
Posts: 2875
Carpe diem!
|
|
« Reply #244 on: April 10, 2013, 11:57:42 PM » |
|
I have made a couple using stainless steel fire extinguishers as a base, or M.S would be fine, and after blanking the end where the discharge fitted, then putting in an outlet taping point, bingo, they are not huge at around 2.3 galls, wbeing the capacity of the ones I used, but no doubt there are larger to be had..................Morrag
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Beware the Ides of March, But!
|
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #245 on: April 11, 2013, 06:13:49 AM » |
|
Any reason why you're not using a conventional bike tank? Or perhaps a locost tank might do.
never thought of that ON but the locost looks like i was thinking,the reason for not using a bike tank was just so that i could drop the fibre glass ones down over the engine keeping the profile lower I have made a couple using stainless steel fire extinguishers as a base
thats similar to the air tank i was going to use but maybe smaller so might have a look at those thanks guys |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #246 on: April 16, 2013, 03:24:36 PM » |
|
My 2p...My tank is 2 ends of two 'dumpy' calor gas bottles with a rolled sheet tigged in between to space them apart. I also fitted a baffle in the middle.
My Locost tank was a minivan tank,but maybe some have different ones?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #247 on: April 20, 2013, 10:48:56 PM » |
|
spent the day helping Alan to put his dr 750 back together and tyring to get it going so not much done but went to the local motorsport store and got some goodies  A little progress I nearly S*#t when i got the bill 94 F#@%ing pound toys don't come cheap   ah well you can't take it with you as i keep telling the wife  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #249 on: April 21, 2013, 08:29:38 AM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ROD
|
|
« Reply #250 on: April 21, 2013, 04:12:22 PM » |
|
PMSL @ Pete!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #251 on: May 04, 2013, 11:09:52 PM » |
|
been busy today,hand brake cables,radiator mounts and a mocked up front mud guard  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress as you can see we used the original cables to simplify future replacement |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #252 on: May 04, 2013, 11:15:26 PM » |
|
more  A little progress cables finished and on to radiator  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress  A little progress front muddie may end up a bit like this if i can get a new one but steel trailer guard are thin on the ground over here |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
merv
|
|
« Reply #253 on: May 05, 2013, 10:01:26 AM » |
|
Hi scannerzer
What is your front mud guard from as that is what I'm looking for, am I right in thinking you have a Suzuki front end
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
|
|
|
|
scannerzer
|
|
« Reply #254 on: May 05, 2013, 10:12:25 AM » |
|
Hi Merv
the mudguard is from a trailer,i found it in a shed at the farm and i don't know exactly what it's from
but i have been looking for one for a while to use on my bike.front end i was told is fj 1200 but i can't
be sure of that.
all the trailer companies i have contacted use plastic guards now and i havn't traced one down yet
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
