speed is of the essence

[kevsky]

with the imminent closedown of the local dvla offices and testing stations the build of this guzzi is being pushed to the front of every other project so all hands to the pumps

[kevsky]

so this is how she was when laddio bought her

[kevsky]

shes running a reliant b axle without any lubricant in so its over to lads and lassies
what grade of the slippy stuff do we need and about how much

[kevsky]

a pair of new nova discs where purchased at the rather cheap price of 18 quid
but the fingy bits that bolt the wheel on had to have a tad shaved off em so they'd fit inside

[kevsky]

hardly noticable to the naked eye but doe,s help as can be seen in these before and after shots

[kevsky]

these will be in the machine shop tomorrow to be turned down so they fit snuggly
but what is the best way to do this
machine the disk or the hub
over to you guys

[kevsky]

went to the local scrappers and sourced a pair rear calipers off a golf but a cupla pins that hold the caliper to the carrier are missing and the price of these is new is more than he paid for the whole lot anybody got a cupla em floating about

[kevsky]

the beast naked
notice the rather substantial bit if tubing at the rear

[kevsky]

template for the rear light and number plate
not really sure if we added a little more masking tape and a coat of hammerite that it'd pass the ministry test but who knows

[Manky Monkey]

 
Hiya,
yup, as you've found, you need to knock the corners off the hubs to fit them inside the discs. Should still be enough "meat" around them to safely fit the wheel studs, but I've always welded the studs in from the back, just to be sure.
The raised centre of the hubs needs machining down slightly to fit the centre hole of the disc, (that's what centres the disc on the hub to make sure it spins evenly, rather than the wheel studs). Probably easier to do that, rather than opening the hole in the discs -the hubs are a softer steel. plus if you machine the discs, any future replacement ones will need to be machined too.
I've got one complete pair of spare calipers somewhere in the shed, but I'm holding onto them! Loony's Dad has a lathe in the workshop. He could probably machine some replacement pins. Couldn't whoever's gonna turn your hubs down do that for you?

[kevsky]

never thought of that mate cheers
any thoughts on the axle oil

[Manky Monkey]

Castrol Hypoy 90Ep according to the Haynes manual.

[kevsky]

thank you very much sir

[WAYNE999]

The trike came to us with a reliant axle with a serial number starting with a B also it came without any brake backing plates drums bolts etc that's why the disc brake conversion seems a good idea so me being brought up in the metric era and most reliant being built in proper old English measurements can anyone tell me what bolts I need to fasten the conversion plates to the axle 

[one arm bandit]

i got some for mine a few months ago but my memory aint the best,but i think they were 1/4 unf, someone might clarrify this first?? alternativly on most of my built i tapped out to metric where i could makes thing easier for us people with hair